I just bought a white ash blank for a baseball bat and was wondering:

1. Are there any special considerations w/r/t turning bats?
2. What are the typical finishes used by the commercial bat makers?
3. If no one knows the answer to #2, what is recommended.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

In article k.net,
"Jeff" wrote:

I just bought a white ash blank for a baseball bat and was wondering:

1. Are there any special considerations w/r/t turning bats?
2. What are the typical finishes used by the commercial bat makers?
3. If no one knows the answer to #2, what is recommended.

Considering my only bat turning experience was 30 years ago in Jr. High
- a red oak monster that jarred one's arms all the way to the shoulders
when you connected with the ball and was way too honkin' big in the
handle - I've been toying with turning a bat for my daughter's
new-found T-ball interest. (Do you folks know that regular aluminum bats
can approach $300?!? I couldn't believe it and didn't realize the soda
cans I've been tossing into recycling are so precious. Makes the Oregon
nickel per can deposit seem pretty paltry.)

I'd likely use a polyurethane on a home-made bat since it's about the
toughest finish available to consumers - but not expect it to look good
for very long after landing in the dirt and laying on damp grass. I bet
the commercial bats are catalyzed lacquer or some such techie finish
suited to efficient mass production.

As to turning one, I'd think it shouldn't require a spindle steady since
the smallest diameter is maybe an inch and a quarter. I'm also thinking
to position it so that the handle is at the headstock so that I'm making
my cuts toward the drive end instead of away.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Safety Tip'o'th'week: Never grind aluminum and steel or iron on the same
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news I've been toying with turning a bat for my daughter's
new-found T-ball interest. (Do you folks know that regular aluminum bats
can approach $300?!? I couldn't believe it and didn't realize the soda
cans I've been tossing into recycling are so precious. Makes the Oregon
nickel per can deposit seem pretty paltry.)

The reason they use aluminum is the kids can swing faster. Not in the
majors because the parks are too small.

"George" George@least wrote in :


"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news I've been toying with turning a bat for my daughter's
new-found T-ball interest. (Do you folks know that regular aluminum bats
can approach $300?!? I couldn't believe it and didn't realize the soda
cans I've been tossing into recycling are so precious. Makes the Oregon
nickel per can deposit seem pretty paltry.)

The reason they use aluminum is the kids can swing faster. Not in the
majors because the parks are too small.


Well, that, and that kids break wooden bats with alarming frequency. At
least, we did when I was a kid. The tape on the bat wasn't for a grip,
most of the time.

So, Owen, I hear there's no straight grained maple in Oregon. It's
supposed to all be that useless curly stuff. Are you going to use
imported? Canadian maple is what was used, when the Giants had a home run
hitter with good knees...

Patriarch,
thinking a flax seed oil finish might be appropriate... ;-)

In article 36,
Patriarch wrote:

Well, that, and that kids break wooden bats with alarming frequency. At
least, we did when I was a kid. The tape on the bat wasn't for a grip,
most of the time.

You mean all that black electrical tape wasn't for grip?!?

So, Owen, I hear there's no straight grained maple in Oregon. It's
supposed to all be that useless curly stuff. Are you going to use
imported? Canadian maple is what was used, when the Giants had a home run
hitter with good knees...

There's quite a bit of straight grained maple but it's of the soft, Big
Leaf variety and it isn't as useful as a general wood source as the hard
maples - but when it's curly, burled, fiddled, or quilted it's da bomb.

"Yeah, I made my kid a quilted maple ball bat. So?"

Actually for T-Ball it would probably work out A-OK since the balls are
soft rubber.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Safety Tip'o'th'week: Never grind aluminum and steel or iron on the same
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm

Owen Lowe writes:
Actually for T-Ball it would probably work out A-OK since the balls
are soft rubber.

I've found that pine yields a bat that's the correct weight for the
size for T-ball bats (15oz) but it doesn't last long if (when) the
kids leave the bat outdoors in the rain.

The first bat was oak (that's what I had in the tree pile) and it was
WAY too heavy for the kids, but boy did it send the ball!

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message

In article k.net,
"Jeff" wrote:

I just bought a white ash blank for a baseball bat and was wondering:

1. Are there any special considerations w/r/t turning bats?
2. What are the typical finishes used by the commercial bat makers?
3. If no one knows the answer to #2, what is recommended.

Considering my only bat turning experience was 30 years ago in Jr. High
- a red oak monster that jarred one's arms all the way to the shoulders
when you connected with the ball and was way too honkin' big in the
handle - I've been toying with turning a bat for my daughter's
new-found T-ball interest. (Do you folks know that regular aluminum bats
can approach $300?!? I couldn't believe it and didn't realize the soda
cans I've been tossing into recycling are so precious. Makes the Oregon
nickel per can deposit seem pretty paltry.)

I'd likely use a polyurethane on a home-made bat since it's about the
toughest finish available to consumers - but not expect it to look good
for very long after landing in the dirt and laying on damp grass. I bet
the commercial bats are catalyzed lacquer or some such techie finish
suited to efficient mass production.

As to turning one, I'd think it shouldn't require a spindle steady since
the smallest diameter is maybe an inch and a quarter. I'm also thinking
to position it so that the handle is at the headstock so that I'm making
my cuts toward the drive end instead of away.

Your last paragraph provides the sort of info I'd never think about as a
novice. Thanks.

Jeff

Jeff,
We have a baseball bat factory here and they said no finish, if you
want to oil it, fine, but they don't use a sealing finish. I just get
their reject blanks for mushroom toothpick holders, never turned a bat
mayself.

Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com

On 21 Jul 2005 06:30:46 -0700, wrote:

Jeff,
We have a baseball bat factory here and they said no finish, if you
want to oil it, fine, but they don't use a sealing finish. I just get
their reject blanks for mushroom toothpick holders, never turned a bat
mayself.

Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com

Ruth... are the reject blanks still ash, or do they use something else now?



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac, the reject blanks are all ash at this bat factory. They are the
ones that might have a knot or other grain flaw.

Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com

On 21 Jul 2005 19:49:43 -0700, wrote:

Mac, the reject blanks are all ash at this bat factory. They are the
ones that might have a knot or other grain flaw.

Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com

I though so, they were all ash when I was a kid...
It sounds like great turning blanks...
I love working with ash, both the turning and finishing..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

wrote in message

Jeff,
We have a baseball bat factory here and they said no finish, if you
want to oil it, fine, but they don't use a sealing finish. I just get
their reject blanks for mushroom toothpick holders, never turned a bat
mayself.

Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com

Ruth,

Did they give a reason for putting no finish on their bats? Seems the
Louisville Sluggers I had as a kid were finished with something. But then
the most recent wooden bat I bought my daughter (okay this was roughly 15
years ago) had a black finish to the handle area, then bare wood.

Jeff

In article k.net,
"Jeff" wrote:

I just bought a white ash blank for a baseball bat and was wondering:

1. Are there any special considerations w/r/t turning bats?

Well, don't do what I did as a kid and make it too damn big. And do
something to "trademark" it on the face grain so anyone who has at least
learned that bit of lore correctly won't be as likely to break it
(because they'll be hitting on the edge grain).

2. What are the typical finishes used by the commercial bat makers?

DIIK.

3. If no one knows the answer to #2, what is recommended.

Oil & Wax, same as I put on any tool handle - Makes a hand-friendly,
comfortable interface. Film finishes stink on any sort of handle, IMHO.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Jeff wrote:
I just bought a white ash blank for a baseball bat and was wondering:

1. Are there any special considerations w/r/t turning bats?
2. What are the typical finishes used by the commercial bat makers?
3. If no one knows the answer to #2, what is recommended.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff


I am curious where you were able to find the blank and the cost.

"Norvin (remove SPAM)" wrote in message
...
Jeff wrote:
I just bought a white ash blank for a baseball bat and was wondering:

1. Are there any special considerations w/r/t turning bats?
2. What are the typical finishes used by the commercial bat makers?
3. If no one knows the answer to #2, what is recommended.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
I am curious where you were able to find the blank and the cost.

Local woodworking store, Johnson's Workbench, in South Bend, IN. Their
blanks are straight-grained ash cylinders, 3" x 39.5", and cost about $10.
Craft Supplies also has them in their catalog in ash or maple for about
twice that amount.

Jeff

On Fri, 22 Jul 2005 00:53:49 GMT, "Norvin (remove SPAM)"
wrote:

Jeff wrote:
I just bought a white ash blank for a baseball bat and was wondering:

1. Are there any special considerations w/r/t turning bats?
2. What are the typical finishes used by the commercial bat makers?
3. If no one knows the answer to #2, what is recommended.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff


I am curious where you were able to find the blank and the cost.

Penn State Ind. has lots of them:

http://tinyurl.com/dwhr3


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

A aluminum bat that cost $300.00 is because the amount of sweet spot.
The more you pay the bigger the sweet spot hence the better chance of
hitting the ball futher. I prefer wood bats but my guess is if a batter
has a choice they will pick metal because of more pop. The Cape Cod
leaque (summer league of top college players from around the contry by
invitation only) uses wood bats but most college leagues dont.The major
teams buy their bats.(cape Cod leaque and I think one or two other
leaques) . When they scout they want to see the real thing. Our state
has been requiring wood in playoffs but not regular seson yet. The
reason for metal is because its too expensive to use wood because of
breakage. The reason against is the extra pop becomes dangerous to the
pitcher etc. If they allow metal bats why not allow corked bats again
more pop. I am very supprised to read no finish. I would think the
handle would get very dirty without sealing.

wrote in message
oups.com...
A aluminum bat that cost $300.00 is because the amount of sweet spot.
The more you pay the bigger the sweet spot hence the better chance of
hitting the ball futher. I prefer wood bats but my guess is if a batter
has a choice they will pick metal because of more pop. The Cape Cod
leaque (summer league of top college players from around the contry by
invitation only) uses wood bats but most college leagues dont.The major
teams buy their bats.(cape Cod leaque and I think one or two other
leaques) . When they scout they want to see the real thing. Our state
has been requiring wood in playoffs but not regular seson yet. The
reason for metal is because its too expensive to use wood because of
breakage. The reason against is the extra pop becomes dangerous to the
pitcher etc. If they allow metal bats why not allow corked bats again
more pop. I am very supprised to read no finish. I would think the
handle would get very dirty without sealing.
===========================
A couple of things:
1. About 60 years ago my dad turned a bat for my brother and me. He used
hickory instead of ash (more abundant in N. Alabama).
As far as I know, there was no finish on it except for the oils and sweat
from our hands. We used that thing all the way from grade school (kinda
heavy) on thru high school. Only problem we had with it was a slight warp
after a few years. Always had to be sure you had it facing the right way
before you stepped up to bat. {:-)
2. In the Marine Corps our M1s had walnut stocks. We were instucted to use
only raw linseed oil on them to maintain a sheen and keep the wood from
drying out and becoming brittle. I don't know what the source of the info to
do that was, but there was usually a good reason most of the traditional
things that were done.

I think if you used any film finish on the bat, it would possibly be subject
to cracking due to impact. I know ash is hard, but a fast ball should cause
some surface flex or distortion on impact.

Your idea to turn a bat for your kid is great. We were always proud of ours.
No one else we knew could say "My Dad made this bat!"

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

In article et,
"Ken Moon" wrote:

Only problem we had with it was a slight warp
after a few years. Always had to be sure you had it facing the right way
before you stepped up to bat. {:-)

Mark Sfirri, is it, who makes those wonderful bats? Hold on a second...

Yep, Sfirri:
http://www.bucks.edu/academic/arts/portfolio/sfirri/rejects.htm

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Safety Tip'o'th'week: Never grind aluminum and steel or iron on the same
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm

Woodcraft 2005 magazine has an article on how to turn a bat with a
template. Woodcraft 800-225-1153 sells ash blank 3x3x40" for $26.99.
There first choice is to burnish with wood shavings (after well
sanded). They say as an alternate to use linseed, tung or wax and stain
it if you like. My vote which I understand doesnt count is to burnish
it with the idea that you can always add other finish down the road.
Ive burnished table legs that look like they had finish on them. A pro
wipes pine tar or something for the grip so my guess is that there is
no finish. Go Red Sox Curt just got a win tonight.