Finally figured it out. I posted here (or was it rec woodworking?-
can't remember) last year to see if anyone had made a jig for cutting
staves, as my old TS has tilting problems. It's a 50 + year old
Craftsman with a decidely worn gear- Anyway, my math isn't wonderful,
but I talked to my son, who is my Autocad guru & he told me to just
draw my setup in full size with the angles I needed & I could then
dimension. It took a little figuring and lowering of the wood sizes
but I finally did it. I can post it on Yahoo if anybody is interested.
I do a lot of 16 piece stave stuff. (I think it cuts down on waste),
so my angle has to be 11.25 degrees. there is 7" between my miter slot
(left side from the blade) & the fence for the size I use most (1 3/4"
staves). In Autocad, I drew a 7" horizontal line & then back to the
left (from that point) at 10" 168.75. (I can't remember the kind of
reference this is called-- polar??) I was able to then draw a line
striaght up from the left end of the 7" line & dimension. I added the
depth of my miter slot to get the total height, cut a board at
approximately 11.25 degrees, set my fence & screwed a 10" board to the
top of the board in the miter slot. I held down on the new jig table
while I raised the blade as far up through the new wood table as I
thought I would need to cut 5/4 material. When cutting, I move the
fence a little to the right on the first cut for a jointed board, then
bump the fence to the jig & tighten for the remaiding cuts on that
board. I did have to take off about 1/64" of the miter slot's board,
as the angle was a tad off. The first set of actual staves I cut were
absolutely perfect. I guess I was just lucky this time. It's a little
unstable, so I clamp the jig down into the miter slot with c clamps. I
wrote this, because I was almost totally discouraged by folks who said
it was really unsafe etc. So just remember to use push sticks & hold
your mouth the right way when cutting-- Also, keep the old digits away
from that spinning thing.