Ok, I do have a serious question now. All joking about my blowing up bowls
aside...

I have a Jet Mini lathe (JML-1014VS) and a Oneway stronghold chuck. When I
mount somethign in the chuck and turn a spigot on it, then flip it over and
mount it in the chuck, sometimes it comes out of the chuck. When I put it
back, it just never is centered the same again. Is this a chuck problem? a
jaw problem? or what?

Should I crank down on the chuck to get that "tenacious" grip that they
advertise? if so, what do i do with the foot of the bowl that then has
chuck teeth marks on it?

It seems to me that the jaws on the chuck dont allow for a remount
correctly. Am I doing something wrong here?

Thanks.

Rob

Yes, you should tighten down the chuck jaws so that the blank does not
come out. And when you have a lathe on which you can turn bigger stuff,
you REALLY don't want anything to come out of the chuck. You should not
plan to be able to accurately rechuck anything, whether you are using
smooth jaws or the Oneway style.

Now, what to do with the marked up bottom? Turn it off. Reverse the
piece onto a jam chuck, holding it there with vacuum or (for a lot less
money) the tailstock. Remove any sign of the tenon and make the bottom
look good. If you are using vacuum you can finish turn and sand the
bottom. If not, then you leave a little bit in the center which you
will carve off and sand.

Bill

Rob McConachie wrote:
Ok, I do have a serious question now. All joking about my blowing up bowls
aside...

I have a Jet Mini lathe (JML-1014VS) and a Oneway stronghold chuck. When I
mount somethign in the chuck and turn a spigot on it, then flip it over and
mount it in the chuck, sometimes it comes out of the chuck. When I put it
back, it just never is centered the same again. Is this a chuck problem? a
jaw problem? or what?

Should I crank down on the chuck to get that "tenacious" grip that they
advertise? if so, what do i do with the foot of the bowl that then has
chuck teeth marks on it?

It seems to me that the jaws on the chuck dont allow for a remount
correctly. Am I doing something wrong here?

Thanks.

Rob

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
...

Hey, Bill; I am sure you mean well, but in this instance you seem to remind
me
of the cow that forgot how to be a calf:-)

I'm still one of the "cheap" turners who still do not own all the gadgets,
and I still - when I get good pieces of advice about _not_ doing something -
still bite my teeth together and scowl: Why the hell _not_!!


Yes, you should tighten down the chuck jaws so that the blank does not
come out. And when you have a lathe on which you can turn bigger stuff,
you REALLY don't want anything to come out of the chuck. You should not
plan to be able to accurately rechuck anything, whether you are using
smooth jaws or the Oneway style.

Rechucking is made difficult for two reasons: The chuck deforms the wood
when you tighten it, which you must.
Because the wood is of different consistency or density as opposed to
metal or plastics, the blank will "always" twist a little out of line as you
tighten the chuck.

Even if you rechuck in the exact same "toothmarks" the second time, you find
that the piece has changed when you worked on it, due to further drying,
or maybe from release of tension in the material.

Personally, I find this effect to be much reduced when I use a Forstner-bit
to make a recess and use the "inside" grip.


Now, what to do with the marked up bottom? Turn it off. Reverse the
piece onto a jam chuck, holding it there with vacuum or (for a lot less
money) the tailstock. Remove any sign of the tenon and make the bottom
look good. If you are using vacuum you can finish turn and sand the
bottom. If not, then you leave a little bit in the center which you will
carve off and sand.

This goodlooking piece of advice makes me ask in earnest:
- How many of you guys out there own a vacuum chuck?

(Am I really that far behind?)

Bjarte

On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 21:57:41 -0400, "Rob McConachie"
wrote:

Ok, I do have a serious question now. All joking about my blowing up bowls
aside...

I have a Jet Mini lathe (JML-1014VS) and a Oneway stronghold chuck. When I
mount somethign in the chuck and turn a spigot on it, then flip it over and
mount it in the chuck, sometimes it comes out of the chuck. When I put it
back, it just never is centered the same again. Is this a chuck problem? a
jaw problem? or what?

I got a really cheap chuck, and it works pretty well- provided it
grips on the ID. It's certainly no Oneway, but it does allow for
accurate remounting. Perhaps the problem is that you're turning a
tenon for the piece, and not a recess? I know that gripping a tenon
with a chuck is standard procedure for a lot of folks, but I've had no
luck with it at all- gripping the inside of a recess works really
well, though.

Should I crank down on the chuck to get that "tenacious" grip that they
advertise? if so, what do i do with the foot of the bowl that then has
chuck teeth marks on it?

Gripping in the ID keeps the chuck marks where they can't easily be
seen.

It seems to me that the jaws on the chuck dont allow for a remount
correctly. Am I doing something wrong here?

Thanks.

Rob

"Rob McConachie" wrote in message
...
Ok, I do have a serious question now. All joking about my blowing up
bowls
aside...

I have a Jet Mini lathe (JML-1014VS) and a Oneway stronghold chuck. When
I
mount somethign in the chuck and turn a spigot on it, then flip it over
and
mount it in the chuck, sometimes it comes out of the chuck. When I put it
back, it just never is centered the same again. Is this a chuck problem?
a
jaw problem? or what?

Should I crank down on the chuck to get that "tenacious" grip that they
advertise? if so, what do i do with the foot of the bowl that then has
chuck teeth marks on it?

It seems to me that the jaws on the chuck dont allow for a remount
correctly. Am I doing something wrong here?

You're doing what you can with the equipment available. I hope the war does
not reignite, but there are good, non-destructive ways of mounting out
there, and none of them involve serrations or non-circular "grips."

Use an interior or exterior dovetail for your mount. Size the recess or
tenon slightly larger than the first point of circularity, and _snug_ , do
not tighten to hold. You want to make a good shoulder for reference and
loading when using the dovetail. This means a flat area inside, with no
sanding trash packed in the corners, or a flat area outside to meet the
_face_ of the jaws. Use your third hand if available - tailstock - to help
in hold and center as you snug the hold. The dovetail will draw the piece
back into the chuck.

Here's an important point. With the dovetail, you don't have to settle for
close. If you cut it flat, and your jaws are flat, it _must_ center. If it
doesn't, it's time to loosen the hold and make sure the faces meet cleanly.
Don't let your experience with destructive mounts temper your judgment
here - these will mount both circular, and with no runout.

That is why I suggested a jam chuck and even noted that it would cost a
lot less money than vacuum chucking. In fact, it can cost you nearly
nothing if you make it yourself. And, if you make it such that it
mounts in your chuck, you don't even need to dedicate a faceplate to the
jam chuck.

I use a piece of 4" schedule 40 joint which costs about $0.80. My
Stronghold chuck expands into one end and I've trued the other end and
glued on a piece of gasket material. I use a piece of paper towel
between the gasket and the bowl to keep the bowl from getting marred. I
try to use the same piece of paper towel over again so as to keep the
cost down.

And, even though I use vacuum chucking, frequently I turn thin enough
that I cannot pull a vacuum on a piece so still use the 'carve the
bottom and sand' method.

So, what did I forget about being a calf?

Bill

Bjarte Runderheim wrote:
"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
...

Hey, Bill; I am sure you mean well, but in this instance you seem to remind
me
of the cow that forgot how to be a calf:-)

I'm still one of the "cheap" turners who still do not own all the gadgets,
and I still - when I get good pieces of advice about _not_ doing something -
still bite my teeth together and scowl: Why the hell _not_!!



Yes, you should tighten down the chuck jaws so that the blank does not
come out. And when you have a lathe on which you can turn bigger stuff,
you REALLY don't want anything to come out of the chuck. You should not
plan to be able to accurately rechuck anything, whether you are using
smooth jaws or the Oneway style.


Rechucking is made difficult for two reasons: The chuck deforms the wood
when you tighten it, which you must.
Because the wood is of different consistency or density as opposed to
metal or plastics, the blank will "always" twist a little out of line as you
tighten the chuck.

Even if you rechuck in the exact same "toothmarks" the second time, you find
that the piece has changed when you worked on it, due to further drying,
or maybe from release of tension in the material.

Personally, I find this effect to be much reduced when I use a Forstner-bit
to make a recess and use the "inside" grip.



Now, what to do with the marked up bottom? Turn it off. Reverse the
piece onto a jam chuck, holding it there with vacuum or (for a lot less
money) the tailstock. Remove any sign of the tenon and make the bottom
look good. If you are using vacuum you can finish turn and sand the
bottom. If not, then you leave a little bit in the center which you will
carve off and sand.


This goodlooking piece of advice makes me ask in earnest:
- How many of you guys out there own a vacuum chuck?

(Am I really that far behind?)

Bjarte

Hey Bill, A great idea! Reuse paper towels and save enough money to buy
a Stubby...or a fatted calf.

I once had a thrifty neighbor lady who carefully hung her used paper
towels out to dry. Not a pretty sight in the eyes of some fancy
beholders.

( go barefoot or wear sandels at the beach... never at the lathe)


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"Rob McConachie" wrote in message
...
Ok, I do have a serious question now. All joking about my blowing up
bowls aside...

I have a Jet Mini lathe (JML-1014VS) and a Oneway stronghold chuck. When
I mount somethign in the chuck and turn a spigot on it, then flip it over
and mount it in the chuck, sometimes it comes out of the chuck. When I put
it back, it just never is centered the same again. Is this a chuck
problem? a jaw problem? or what?

Should I crank down on the chuck to get that "tenacious" grip that they
advertise? if so, what do i do with the foot of the bowl that then has
chuck teeth marks on it?

It seems to me that the jaws on the chuck dont allow for a remount
correctly. Am I doing something wrong here?

Thanks.

Rob

You must not be using much tightening force at all. I can't believe anything
that fits on a 10" mini being held by a Stronghold would come loose if
properly mounted. Proper tightening is one aspect but the tenon must not be
too long such that it bottoms out on the bottom of the jaws. The points of
contact are the jaw grips and the front face of the jaws which must contact
the bottom of the bowl. The latter is very important as it helps keep the
bowl from twisting out of the jaws with cutting pressure. The tenon is cut
parallel with the axis of rotation, not tapered. Your Stronghold manual
gives the dimensions of valid tenon sizes. I have seen some large bowls
mounted with tenons no deeper than about 1/8".

I have remounted bowls using the regular Stronghold jaws and the odd time it
is perfect but usually it is out a little. If you think that you want to try
dovetail jaws you can get them from Oneway for your chuck. I always use an
external tenon and I do not consider the bowl finished if it has anything
looking like a tenon sticking out the bottom no matter how smooth it is.
Internal, unsmoothed, tenons are not elegant either. My methods for
finishing the bottom are vacuum chuck (lately), jam-chuck/tailstock, or
donut/compression chuck.

Billh

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:22:08 -0400, "billh" wrote:

snip
You must not be using much tightening force at all. I can't believe anything
that fits on a 10" mini being held by a Stronghold would come loose if
properly mounted. Proper tightening is one aspect but the tenon must not be
too long such that it bottoms out on the bottom of the jaws. The points of
contact are the jaw grips and the front face of the jaws which must contact
the bottom of the bowl. The latter is very important as it helps keep the
bowl from twisting out of the jaws with cutting pressure. The tenon is cut
parallel with the axis of rotation, not tapered. Your Stronghold manual
gives the dimensions of valid tenon sizes. I have seen some large bowls
mounted with tenons no deeper than about 1/8".

I have remounted bowls using the regular Stronghold jaws and the odd time it
is perfect but usually it is out a little. If you think that you want to try
dovetail jaws you can get them from Oneway for your chuck. I always use an
external tenon and I do not consider the bowl finished if it has anything
looking like a tenon sticking out the bottom no matter how smooth it is.
Internal, unsmoothed, tenons are not elegant either. My methods for
finishing the bottom are vacuum chuck (lately), jam-chuck/tailstock, or
donut/compression chuck.

Billh

Bill.. I'm still new enough to remember stuff that you probably have selectively
remove form ram.. *g*

I have knocked several items out of the grip (not out of the chuck though) of
the Talon on a Jet mini... and always using the same method, the dreaded catch..

I find that now that I have a lot more experience and a little more skill and
technique, I somehow seem to have far less catches and most things stay true in
the chuck for a whole turning..

I also remember starting out with fairly large turnings and since every catch
means remounting and re-truing, the turning gets smaller and smaller.. *g*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:22:08 -0400, "billh"
wrote:

snip
You must not be using much tightening force at all. I can't believe
anything
that fits on a 10" mini being held by a Stronghold would come loose if
properly mounted. Proper tightening is one aspect but the tenon must not
be
too long such that it bottoms out on the bottom of the jaws. The points of
contact are the jaw grips and the front face of the jaws which must
contact
the bottom of the bowl. The latter is very important as it helps keep the
bowl from twisting out of the jaws with cutting pressure. The tenon is cut
parallel with the axis of rotation, not tapered. Your Stronghold manual
gives the dimensions of valid tenon sizes. I have seen some large bowls
mounted with tenons no deeper than about 1/8".

I have remounted bowls using the regular Stronghold jaws and the odd time
it
is perfect but usually it is out a little. If you think that you want to
try
dovetail jaws you can get them from Oneway for your chuck. I always use an
external tenon and I do not consider the bowl finished if it has anything
looking like a tenon sticking out the bottom no matter how smooth it is.
Internal, unsmoothed, tenons are not elegant either. My methods for
finishing the bottom are vacuum chuck (lately), jam-chuck/tailstock, or
donut/compression chuck.

Billh

Bill.. I'm still new enough to remember stuff that you probably have
selectively
remove form ram.. *g*

I have knocked several items out of the grip (not out of the chuck though)
of
the Talon on a Jet mini... and always using the same method, the dreaded
catch..

I find that now that I have a lot more experience and a little more skill
and
technique, I somehow seem to have far less catches and most things stay
true in
the chuck for a whole turning..

I also remember starting out with fairly large turnings and since every
catch
means remounting and re-truing, the turning gets smaller and smaller.. *g*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac,
I haven't been catch free for all that long that I'd forget but I won't deny
it doesn't happen. I learned bowl turning on a cheapie Jet 1236 look-alike
lathe with a rotating headstock. I had a cheap dove-tail jaws chuck like the
ones sold by Grizzly which cost about $50US. A reasonably good catch with
that chuck used to typically knock it out of true (or way out of true) with
the rare one coming right out. However, I tightened the chuck very tightly
and had the bent tommy bars to prove it.

When I got my Stronghold I found that the catches didn't really knock the
bowl out of alignment in most cases. Yes, by that time the bad catches were
less frequent. I tighten my Stronghold and Talon firmly since I don't care
about what the tenon looks like. At our club, people demonstrating chucks
recommend that for the best grip you tighten in each key hole in the chuck -
the same as I was taught a zillion years ago in grade 8 shop class when
tightening a drill in a Jacobs chuck on a drill press. I don't have the same
feeling as really reefing on the Oneway but the key/gear does give a 5:1
mechanical advantage.

Another thing that might help if severe catches are a problem is to loosen
the drive belt if possible so it acts like a clutch.

Billh

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
...
That is why I suggested a jam chuck and even noted that it would cost a
lot less money than vacuum chucking. In fact, it can cost you nearly
nothing if you make it yourself. And, if you make it such that it mounts
in your chuck, you don't even need to dedicate a faceplate to the jam
chuck.

I use a piece of 4" schedule 40 joint which costs about $0.80. My
Stronghold chuck expands into one end and I've trued the other end and
glued on a piece of gasket material. I use a piece of paper towel between
the gasket and the bowl to keep the bowl from getting marred. I try to
use the same piece of paper towel over again so as to keep the cost down.

And, even though I use vacuum chucking, frequently I turn thin enough that
I cannot pull a vacuum on a piece so still use the 'carve the bottom and
sand' method.

So, what did I forget about being a calf?

Bill


Now you're talkin'!
I withdraw evrything to do with bovine elements, and note things
behind my ear for the future.

But what I meant, was that us calves need things explained just
a little more than your first try, and more in the direction of this
second try.

No offence meant:-)

Bjarte

"billh" wrote in message
news

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:22:08 -0400, "billh"
wrote:

snip
You must not be using much tightening force at all. I can't believe
anything
that fits on a 10" mini being held by a Stronghold would come loose if
properly mounted. Proper tightening is one aspect but the tenon must not
be
too long such that it bottoms out on the bottom of the jaws. The points
of
contact are the jaw grips and the front face of the jaws which must
contact
the bottom of the bowl. The latter is very important as it helps keep
the
bowl from twisting out of the jaws with cutting pressure. The tenon is
cut
parallel with the axis of rotation, not tapered. Your Stronghold manual
gives the dimensions of valid tenon sizes. I have seen some large bowls
mounted with tenons no deeper than about 1/8".

I have remounted bowls using the regular Stronghold jaws and the odd
time
it
is perfect but usually it is out a little. If you think that you want to
try
dovetail jaws you can get them from Oneway for your chuck. I always use
an
external tenon and I do not consider the bowl finished if it has
anything
looking like a tenon sticking out the bottom no matter how smooth it is.
Internal, unsmoothed, tenons are not elegant either. My methods for
finishing the bottom are vacuum chuck (lately), jam-chuck/tailstock, or
donut/compression chuck.

Billh

Bill.. I'm still new enough to remember stuff that you probably have
selectively
remove form ram.. *g*

I have knocked several items out of the grip (not out of the chuck
though)
of
the Talon on a Jet mini... and always using the same method, the dreaded
catch..

I find that now that I have a lot more experience and a little more
skill
and
technique, I somehow seem to have far less catches and most things stay
true in
the chuck for a whole turning..

I also remember starting out with fairly large turnings and since every
catch
means remounting and re-truing, the turning gets smaller and smaller..
*g*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac,
I haven't been catch free for all that long that I'd forget but I won't
deny
it doesn't happen. I learned bowl turning on a cheapie Jet 1236 look-alike
lathe with a rotating headstock. I had a cheap dove-tail jaws chuck like
the
ones sold by Grizzly which cost about $50US. A reasonably good catch with
that chuck used to typically knock it out of true (or way out of true)
with
the rare one coming right out. However, I tightened the chuck very tightly
and had the bent tommy bars to prove it.

When I got my Stronghold I found that the catches didn't really knock the
bowl out of alignment in most cases. Yes, by that time the bad catches
were
less frequent. I tighten my Stronghold and Talon firmly since I don't care
about what the tenon looks like. At our club, people demonstrating chucks
recommend that for the best grip you tighten in each key hole in the
chuck -
the same as I was taught a zillion years ago in grade 8 shop class when
tightening a drill in a Jacobs chuck on a drill press. I don't have the
same
feeling as really reefing on the Oneway but the key/gear does give a 5:1
mechanical advantage.

Another thing that might help if severe catches are a problem is to loosen
the drive belt if possible so it acts like a clutch.

Billh


Two points, guys. First, the tenon should be just a smidgen larger than the
smallest opening on the jaws. In other words, if the jaws come together and
measure 2" across (on the inside of the jaws), then make the tenon 2 1/8" to
2 1/4" in diameter. This way, you have the maximum amount of the jaws in
contact with the tenon.

Second point. Take the point of a skew or a narrow parting tool and sever
the fibers on the tenon right up against the bottom of the bowl. 1/16" deep
is probably enough. What this does is allow the fibers all the way across
the tenon to be compressed evenly. If you fail to do this, the fibers right
next to the bottom of the bowl are supported more than the fibers at the
end of the tenon, and when compressed, the tenon tends to end up tapered
away from the bowl.

If you try these two things, I bet your problems will be (mostly) solved.

Regards,
James R. Johnson

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 10:57:51 -0400, (Arch) wrote:


I once had a thrifty neighbor lady who carefully hung her used paper
towels out to dry.

Hey, I resemble that remark! If they're only wet, they've still got
life in them. Thank me old Scottish mama for that one.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

(Chuck) wrote in
:

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 10:57:51 -0400, (Arch) wrote:


I once had a thrifty neighbor lady who carefully hung her used paper
towels out to dry.

Hey, I resemble that remark! If they're only wet, they've still got
life in them. Thank me old Scottish mama for that one.


Perhaps she had been using BLO, and was hoping to avoid spontaneous
combustion problems?

Patriarch

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:43:12 -0400, "billh" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:22:08 -0400, "billh"
wrote:

snip
You must not be using much tightening force at all. I can't believe
anything
that fits on a 10" mini being held by a Stronghold would come loose if
properly mounted. Proper tightening is one aspect but the tenon must not
be
too long such that it bottoms out on the bottom of the jaws. The points of
contact are the jaw grips and the front face of the jaws which must
contact
the bottom of the bowl. The latter is very important as it helps keep the
bowl from twisting out of the jaws with cutting pressure. The tenon is cut
parallel with the axis of rotation, not tapered. Your Stronghold manual
gives the dimensions of valid tenon sizes. I have seen some large bowls
mounted with tenons no deeper than about 1/8".

I have remounted bowls using the regular Stronghold jaws and the odd time
it
is perfect but usually it is out a little. If you think that you want to
try
dovetail jaws you can get them from Oneway for your chuck. I always use an
external tenon and I do not consider the bowl finished if it has anything
looking like a tenon sticking out the bottom no matter how smooth it is.
Internal, unsmoothed, tenons are not elegant either. My methods for
finishing the bottom are vacuum chuck (lately), jam-chuck/tailstock, or
donut/compression chuck.

Billh

Bill.. I'm still new enough to remember stuff that you probably have
selectively
remove form ram.. *g*

I have knocked several items out of the grip (not out of the chuck though)
of
the Talon on a Jet mini... and always using the same method, the dreaded
catch..

I find that now that I have a lot more experience and a little more skill
and
technique, I somehow seem to have far less catches and most things stay
true in
the chuck for a whole turning..

I also remember starting out with fairly large turnings and since every
catch
means remounting and re-truing, the turning gets smaller and smaller.. *g*


Mac,
I haven't been catch free for all that long that I'd forget but I won't deny
it doesn't happen. I learned bowl turning on a cheapie Jet 1236 look-alike
lathe with a rotating headstock. I had a cheap dove-tail jaws chuck like the
ones sold by Grizzly which cost about $50US. A reasonably good catch with
that chuck used to typically knock it out of true (or way out of true) with
the rare one coming right out. However, I tightened the chuck very tightly
and had the bent tommy bars to prove it.

When I got my Stronghold I found that the catches didn't really knock the
bowl out of alignment in most cases. Yes, by that time the bad catches were
less frequent. I tighten my Stronghold and Talon firmly since I don't care
about what the tenon looks like. At our club, people demonstrating chucks
recommend that for the best grip you tighten in each key hole in the chuck -
the same as I was taught a zillion years ago in grade 8 shop class when
tightening a drill in a Jacobs chuck on a drill press. I don't have the same
feeling as really reefing on the Oneway but the key/gear does give a 5:1
mechanical advantage.

Another thing that might help if severe catches are a problem is to loosen
the drive belt if possible so it acts like a clutch.

Billh

same procedure here, bull.. I used to do recesses a lot more before getting Bill
Grumbine's video.. now I do a lot more tenons..
I doubt that it makes much difference if I tighten the Talon from both sides,
but I do anyway..
Like Bill says in the video, you can apply too much jaw pressure to a recess,
but it's hard to break a tenon...

I haven't looked at the belts on the new 1442, but on the mini, I kept the belt
loose enough to stop the spindle if (ok, when) I got a bad catch.. (are there
any GOOD catches?)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 21:02:03 GMT, "JRJohnson" wrote:

snip

Two points, guys. First, the tenon should be just a smidgen larger than the
smallest opening on the jaws. In other words, if the jaws come together and
measure 2" across (on the inside of the jaws), then make the tenon 2 1/8" to
2 1/4" in diameter. This way, you have the maximum amount of the jaws in
contact with the tenon.

Second point. Take the point of a skew or a narrow parting tool and sever
the fibers on the tenon right up against the bottom of the bowl. 1/16" deep
is probably enough. What this does is allow the fibers all the way across
the tenon to be compressed evenly. If you fail to do this, the fibers right
next to the bottom of the bowl are supported more than the fibers at the
end of the tenon, and when compressed, the tenon tends to end up tapered
away from the bowl.

If you try these two things, I bet your problems will be (mostly) solved.

Regards,
James R. Johnson

James.. to "expand" on one of your points...
The smaller the diameter of the tenon, the more the chuck is "closed", which
means less spinning metal on the back of the jaws..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Normally, bowls are held in a chuck by a tenon that is later turned away,
removing any jaw marks.

This doesn't really relate to your question, but with a Stronghold on a Jet
Mini................the flywheel effect must be considerable. You've got a
little too much chuck..........or.............not quite enough lathe. You
might want to consider a Talon or a bigger lathe.

Barry


"Rob McConachie" wrote in message
...
Ok, I do have a serious question now. All joking about my blowing up
bowls
aside...

I have a Jet Mini lathe (JML-1014VS) and a Oneway stronghold chuck. When
I
mount somethign in the chuck and turn a spigot on it, then flip it over
and
mount it in the chuck, sometimes it comes out of the chuck. When I put it
back, it just never is centered the same again. Is this a chuck problem?
a
jaw problem? or what?

Should I crank down on the chuck to get that "tenacious" grip that they
advertise? if so, what do i do with the foot of the bowl that then has
chuck teeth marks on it?

It seems to me that the jaws on the chuck dont allow for a remount
correctly. Am I doing something wrong here?

Thanks.

Rob

On Sun, 12 Jun 2005 13:39:37 -0500, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote:

Normally, bowls are held in a chuck by a tenon that is later turned away,
removing any jaw marks.

This doesn't really relate to your question, but with a Stronghold on a Jet
Mini................the flywheel effect must be considerable. You've got a
little too much chuck..........or.............not quite enough lathe. You
might want to consider a Talon or a bigger lathe.

Barry

I'd recommend getting BOTH.. *g*

Get a bigger lathe for the Stronghold and a Talon for the mini..


mac

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