Hello.
Let me start with an introduction. My name is Roland J Rankin Jr. I
prefer Rol (Pronounced Roll as in roll a ball down the hill, my daddy is
Roland, and nobody feels comfortable calling a grown man Junior. ;-).
I've tried to lurk for the past few days, figuring out the signal to
noise ratio in this group. Seems pretty decent with some knowledgeable
people that actually pipe in, so all an all a good community to attempt
to join.

Why I'm still waiting on my newsreader to give me historical downloads
(ISP has some fancy newsgroup rules that prevents downloading everything
at once, only 500 or so per day.) I thought I would attempt to jump in
the deep end make my introductions and ask some questions I don't expect
to be answered by finding the FAQ.

I don't expect any one person to know all the answers so just chime in
on the parts you feel comfortable answering. ( I feel like a kid who
just had to interrupt the adults at the big table, trying to get it all
out at once so as to make the least trouble as possible.. haha)

Couple Questions.
1) Is there a FAQ and where can I find it?

2) Is this the Proper group for I think it's called "galoot"
woodworking? Correct me if I am wrong please. I don't use any
electricity, or fuels for my wood working only treadle machines I can
build myself, or quality hand tools I'm to able make or obtain. The only
electricity I use is for the darn Fluorescent lights that drive me crazy
with their Buzzing and inability to cast a proper shadow.

3) Has anyone built a solid oak Hand Plane that would care to lend advice?


I'm told that after I mortise out the hole for the plane iron and
breaker blade, I'm supposed to stop the mouth up with putty and fill the
cavity with linseed oil until it exudes from both ends. ( I also read
that I'm not supposed to finish the mortise through until after I've
done this step.)
A) I guess the latter way is for the worker that expects to retrue the
tool after this step?

I'm then supposed to let it dry out for a week to a month depending
whether it's size (Jack plane vs smoothing plane),and repeat the
process, before I consider using the plane. or True-ing the plan before
completing the through mortise to form the mouth)

Afterwards, I'm supposed to reoil (like one would oil a hand saw to
prevent rust, except using linseed oil instead of using household oil)
the plane with oil after every use (if infrequent) and as needed (if
frequently used)
B) Anything besides Linseed work? Should the Linseed be Raw, Boiled,
or Double boiled (chemically boiled)?


Now, My thinking is. That the linseed oil is basically acting as a
stabilizer, It's getting into all the pores and kinda turning into a
half dry plastic, never really wet but never completely dry. Reducing
the planes sensitivity to local humidity changes. And the reason it's
done with with Oil instead of a proper finish it because the bottom of
the plane is constantly being worn (sanded) against the work piece.
So using a proper finish would simply cause you to spend all your time
retrue-ing the plane and refinishing the bottom? Since you are using a
wooden plan and the mouth opens up the more of the plane face you
remove, you don't want to retrue a plane too many times.

4) Have I got the guts of that right? Is this still the preferred
method? Anyone have any Advice they care to pitch in? Or a better method?

A) Can anyone confirm that for best results the plane should be cut
square to the tree with heart facing side facing up and the outward side
facing down? (e.g. Flattest rings riding across the work)

B) while we are talking about Planes. Any one have any experience with
Hock Tools? (http://www.hocktools.com/) I was thinking of getting my
blades (if not my breaker irons) there. Was hoping someone could give an
affirmative voice that they really are what their web-site makes them
out to be? I really like to start getting some use out of my tools
before I have to take up too much black smith learning.


5) Seasoning. Wood. If I go out into my yard and chop down a tree. (I've
already done this part)
A) How log should I let it lay before I begin to use it? 6 months of
curing with the bark on, and anything I cut off of it right now still
checks and warps like crazy.

I'm reading all kinds of conflicting information.
The Farmer way says to fell the tree in June, (didn't happen) and leave
it laying as is, until the leaves fall off on their own (also didn't
happen). (about a month) then cut into boards, to finish drying (another
month or two) then plane the boards true to finished dimensions.

The Old Timey way I read to do it, is to fell the tree cut into length I
can manage alone, and let it lay for 2 or 3 years, ( some say seal the
ends with beeswax some say don't) then only cut it as needed.

Assuming they both work the only advantage I can see to the second
method would be that less wood is used as scrap.

B) With the End splits now being more common (more cuts) are you
really saving any wood for all the extra time?

C) I know that the more I split ( cut to width) the wood (versus cut
the wood to length) the faster it will dry but the more prone it will be
warping and the less prone it will be to splitting? Did I learn that right?


D) Is there anything I should be asking but might not know enough to
ask about regarding Seasoning wood?


6) Is there a better method of measuring wood humidity (baring electric
devices) than pressing your lower lip to the end grain and gauge-ing
your senses to the cold sensation (humidity)?



FYI is a valid email address. I do check it
daily but I don't expect replies to be there unless they are of
extremely personal nature. (I'm working on training thunderbird to fight
spam better and won't mind the newsgroup email address farming on that
account.)


Well I think that is long winded enough, most people would have a
reasonable understanding that I'm of a talkative lot. So that should
serve well as my side of the introduction.

Roland J Rankin Jr.
witty saying goes here

Hi, Rol. Welcome to rec.crafts.woodturning.

1) Is there a FAQ and where can I find it?

Nope.

2) Is this the Proper group for I think it's called "galoot"
woodworking?

Nope. This is strictly woodturning. As in lathes and stuff. The Galoots
are on the OldTools mailing list. Take a look at
http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/galtprog.html for instructions on how
to join The Porch, as it's known, and other good stuff. John Gunterman's
site at http://www.shavings.net/ will give you a bit more of the flavor,
plus some useful reference material.

The other questions are better suited to rec.woodworking, though the
folks at The Porch can probably tell you about plane making. However, I
can tell you that Ron Hock's blades are about as good as they get.

Correct me if I am wrong please. I don't use any
electricity, or fuels for my wood working only treadle machines I can
build myself, or quality hand tools I'm to able make or obtain.

Of course, if you would like to tell us how you built a treadle
lathe--preferably with directions to a Web site with pics--you have
definitely come to the right place!

Owen Davies

Owen Davies wrote:
Hi, Rol. Welcome to rec.crafts.woodturning.

1) Is there a FAQ and where can I find it?


Nope.

2) Is this the Proper group for I think it's called "galoot" woodworking?


Nope. This is strictly woodturning. As in lathes and stuff. The Galoots
are on the OldTools mailing list. Take a look at
http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/galtprog.html for instructions on how
to join The Porch, as it's known, and other good stuff. John Gunterman's
site at http://www.shavings.net/ will give you a bit more of the flavor,
plus some useful reference material.

The other questions are better suited to rec.woodworking, though the
folks at The Porch can probably tell you about plane making. However, I
can tell you that Ron Hock's blades are about as good as they get.

Correct me if I am wrong please. I don't use any electricity, or fuels
for my wood working only treadle machines I can build myself, or
quality hand tools I'm to able make or obtain.


Of course, if you would like to tell us how you built a treadle
lathe--preferably with directions to a Web site with pics--you have
definitely come to the right place!

Owen Davies

Eeek, I was wondering why I was seeing so many posts on turning.. (been
lurking the wrong group for days now) Guess I removed the wrong group.
instead of this one.. grrr.

Sorry about that, thanks for the heads up I'll be moving along now, come
back when I've got some turning to talk about.

Roland J Rankin jr.

Roland J Rankin Jr wrote:

Sorry about that, thanks for the heads up I'll be moving along now, come
back when I've got some turning to talk about.

Gee, I didn't mean to point you toward the door. Sorry to see you go.

Owen

On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 22:20:31 -0400, Roland J Rankin Jr
wrote:

Welcome, Rol...
Can you let us into your secret of powering your computer, or is that electric,
too? *g*

Check out Steve Knights web site...
besides learning all about planes, you'll probably pledge your life savings and
first born child for a few of his excellent planes.. *g*
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/


Hello.
Let me start with an introduction. My name is Roland J Rankin Jr. I
prefer Rol (Pronounced Roll as in roll a ball down the hill, my daddy is
Roland, and nobody feels comfortable calling a grown man Junior. ;-).
I've tried to lurk for the past few days, figuring out the signal to
noise ratio in this group. Seems pretty decent with some knowledgeable
people that actually pipe in, so all an all a good community to attempt
to join.

Why I'm still waiting on my newsreader to give me historical downloads
(ISP has some fancy newsgroup rules that prevents downloading everything
at once, only 500 or so per day.) I thought I would attempt to jump in
the deep end make my introductions and ask some questions I don't expect
to be answered by finding the FAQ.

I don't expect any one person to know all the answers so just chime in
on the parts you feel comfortable answering. ( I feel like a kid who
just had to interrupt the adults at the big table, trying to get it all
out at once so as to make the least trouble as possible.. haha)

Couple Questions.
1) Is there a FAQ and where can I find it?

2) Is this the Proper group for I think it's called "galoot"
woodworking? Correct me if I am wrong please. I don't use any
electricity, or fuels for my wood working only treadle machines I can
build myself, or quality hand tools I'm to able make or obtain. The only
electricity I use is for the darn Fluorescent lights that drive me crazy
with their Buzzing and inability to cast a proper shadow.

3) Has anyone built a solid oak Hand Plane that would care to lend advice?


I'm told that after I mortise out the hole for the plane iron and
breaker blade, I'm supposed to stop the mouth up with putty and fill the
cavity with linseed oil until it exudes from both ends. ( I also read
that I'm not supposed to finish the mortise through until after I've
done this step.)
A) I guess the latter way is for the worker that expects to retrue the
tool after this step?

I'm then supposed to let it dry out for a week to a month depending
whether it's size (Jack plane vs smoothing plane),and repeat the
process, before I consider using the plane. or True-ing the plan before
completing the through mortise to form the mouth)

Afterwards, I'm supposed to reoil (like one would oil a hand saw to
prevent rust, except using linseed oil instead of using household oil)
the plane with oil after every use (if infrequent) and as needed (if
frequently used)
B) Anything besides Linseed work? Should the Linseed be Raw, Boiled,
or Double boiled (chemically boiled)?


Now, My thinking is. That the linseed oil is basically acting as a
stabilizer, It's getting into all the pores and kinda turning into a
half dry plastic, never really wet but never completely dry. Reducing
the planes sensitivity to local humidity changes. And the reason it's
done with with Oil instead of a proper finish it because the bottom of
the plane is constantly being worn (sanded) against the work piece.
So using a proper finish would simply cause you to spend all your time
retrue-ing the plane and refinishing the bottom? Since you are using a
wooden plan and the mouth opens up the more of the plane face you
remove, you don't want to retrue a plane too many times.

4) Have I got the guts of that right? Is this still the preferred
method? Anyone have any Advice they care to pitch in? Or a better method?

A) Can anyone confirm that for best results the plane should be cut
square to the tree with heart facing side facing up and the outward side
facing down? (e.g. Flattest rings riding across the work)

B) while we are talking about Planes. Any one have any experience with
Hock Tools? (http://www.hocktools.com/) I was thinking of getting my
blades (if not my breaker irons) there. Was hoping someone could give an
affirmative voice that they really are what their web-site makes them
out to be? I really like to start getting some use out of my tools
before I have to take up too much black smith learning.


5) Seasoning. Wood. If I go out into my yard and chop down a tree. (I've
already done this part)
A) How log should I let it lay before I begin to use it? 6 months of
curing with the bark on, and anything I cut off of it right now still
checks and warps like crazy.

I'm reading all kinds of conflicting information.
The Farmer way says to fell the tree in June, (didn't happen) and leave
it laying as is, until the leaves fall off on their own (also didn't
happen). (about a month) then cut into boards, to finish drying (another
month or two) then plane the boards true to finished dimensions.

The Old Timey way I read to do it, is to fell the tree cut into length I
can manage alone, and let it lay for 2 or 3 years, ( some say seal the
ends with beeswax some say don't) then only cut it as needed.

Assuming they both work the only advantage I can see to the second
method would be that less wood is used as scrap.

B) With the End splits now being more common (more cuts) are you
really saving any wood for all the extra time?

C) I know that the more I split ( cut to width) the wood (versus cut
the wood to length) the faster it will dry but the more prone it will be
warping and the less prone it will be to splitting? Did I learn that right?


D) Is there anything I should be asking but might not know enough to
ask about regarding Seasoning wood?


6) Is there a better method of measuring wood humidity (baring electric
devices) than pressing your lower lip to the end grain and gauge-ing
your senses to the cold sensation (humidity)?



FYI is a valid email address. I do check it
daily but I don't expect replies to be there unless they are of
extremely personal nature. (I'm working on training thunderbird to fight
spam better and won't mind the newsgroup email address farming on that
account.)


Well I think that is long winded enough, most people would have a
reasonable understanding that I'm of a talkative lot. So that should
serve well as my side of the introduction.

Roland J Rankin Jr.
witty saying goes here









mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 22:20:31 -0400, Roland J Rankin Jr
wrote:

Welcome, Rol...
Can you let us into your secret of powering your computer, or is that
electric,
too? *g*


Pneumatic, like the Amish....

Owen Davies wrote:
Roland J Rankin Jr wrote:

Sorry about that, thanks for the heads up I'll be moving along now,
come back when I've got some turning to talk about.


Gee, I didn't mean to point you toward the door. Sorry to see you go.

Owen

Not leaving just gone back to lurking, until I have something worth saying.

Rol