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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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AC motor - suitable source?
Hi all,
I need a variable speed mains AC motor for a project I'm working on. Ideally, I'd like to be able to vary the speed using a variac. It needs to go up to ~4000 RPM, which is beyond most mains drills. Any ideas on where I can get one, or what bits of equipment I can cannibalise? TIA -- Grunff |
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Grunff wrote:
I need a variable speed mains AC motor for a project I'm working on. Ideally, I'd like to be able to vary the speed using a variac. It needs to go up to ~4000 RPM, which is beyond most mains drills. Any ideas on where I can get one, or what bits of equipment I can cannibalise? Thinking about it, can anyone think of a reason why I can't use a motor from say a circular saw? I'm thinking: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=26213&id=23107 -- Grunff |
#3
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In message , Grunff
writes Grunff wrote: I need a variable speed mains AC motor for a project I'm working on. Ideally, I'd like to be able to vary the speed using a variac. It needs to go up to ~4000 RPM, which is beyond most mains drills. Any ideas on where I can get one, or what bits of equipment I can cannibalise? Thinking about it, can anyone think of a reason why I can't use a motor from say a circular saw? I'm thinking: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=26213&id=23107 The circular saw's in use at the moment wait until the blood's washed off first -- geoff |
#4
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In message , Grunff
writes Hi all, I need a variable speed mains AC motor for a project I'm working on. Ideally, I'd like to be able to vary the speed using a variac. It needs to go up to ~4000 RPM, which is beyond most mains drills. Any ideas on where I can get one, or what bits of equipment I can cannibalise? You should know that someone's going to ask what sort of power you're after What sort of power are you after ? -- geoff |
#5
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raden wrote:
You should know that someone's going to ask what sort of power you're after I knew someone would ask that... What sort of power are you after ? Anything more than ~300W will be fine. -- Grunff |
#6
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On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 00:57:29 +0100, Grunff wrote:
raden wrote: You should know that someone's going to ask what sort of power you're after I knew someone would ask that... What sort of power are you after ? Anything more than ~300W will be fine. .... and somebody else is going to ask what the project is..... -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#7
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Andy Hall wrote:
... and somebody else is going to ask what the project is..... Well... Since finishing the house, I've had time to get back to some unfinished projects. One of those is my Tesla coil. The motor is for driving a rotary spark gap, to replace the static multi-gap I have on there at the moment. -- Grunff |
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On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:18:52 +0100, Grunff wrote:
Andy Hall wrote: ... and somebody else is going to ask what the project is..... Well... Since finishing the house, I've had time to get back to some unfinished projects. One of those is my Tesla coil. The motor is for driving a rotary spark gap, to replace the static multi-gap I have on there at the moment. This is getting concerning.... I'm starting to build an impression of all of this..... - The isolated location - Motor driven high voltage generation - Variacs controlling it all - Large meters on the wall - The mad professor outfit recently ordered from the lab suppliers - Strange goings on being heard of in the vicinity - The howling of dogs in the distance - The dark night with the thunderstorm and lightning bolts over the prison quarry You're making a monster, aren't you?? BTW. B&Q have a good range of coach bolts. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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"Grunff" wrote in message ... Andy Hall wrote: ... and somebody else is going to ask what the project is..... Well... Since finishing the house, I've had time to get back to some unfinished projects. One of those is my Tesla coil. The motor is for driving a rotary spark gap, to replace the static multi-gap I have on there at the moment. I've read quite a bit of Tesla's stuff, a lot of it on the web. It would be interesting to investigate to what extent the mechanical switches might be replaced by semiconductors, working in low voltage circuits obviously. j |
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In message , Andy Hall
writes On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 00:57:29 +0100, Grunff wrote: raden wrote: You should know that someone's going to ask what sort of power you're after I knew someone would ask that... What sort of power are you after ? Anything more than ~300W will be fine. ... and somebody else is going to ask what the project is..... What's the project ? -- geoff |
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On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 18:56:31 GMT, raden wrote:
In message , Andy Hall writes On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 00:57:29 +0100, Grunff wrote: raden wrote: You should know that someone's going to ask what sort of power you're after I knew someone would ask that... What sort of power are you after ? Anything more than ~300W will be fine. ... and somebody else is going to ask what the project is..... What's the project ? He's already said, Geoff. He's making a monster.... -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#13
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What's the STARTING torque ? And as a secondary question, what's the
total power ? If you don't have to start against a load, then you can use most sorts of motor. If it must start "in gear", then you probably need a "universal" motor, i.e. with brushes, rather than an induction motor. These are easiest to find anyway. I don't think an electric drill or saw is a good idea for starters, but a cheap router will do 4,000 rpm easily and comes with built-in speed control. Some saws will get you to almost 4,000 and you can add the speed control. And forget using a variac for speed control - save it for the "electric gherkin" demonstration (Google for "electric pickle"). The way to do it is by phase control (light dimmer, with a few extra bells and whistles on). Light dimmers are prety rubbish (400W max, most are only 250W and they don't take kindly to motor loads either). However someone like RS sell a wide range of ready-made phase control modules (just add a variable resistor) and some of them are cheap (even from RS). If you have a big induction motor you can't do this, but if you need something that big then find a cheap 3 S/H phase motor and buy a cheap(ish) VFD (variable frequency drive) from eBay. |
#14
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#15
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Grunff wrote:
Yes, I thought of a router after posting about the saw - I'd forgotten how cheap they've become. My only question is will it go slow enough? I need quite a wide range of speeds, from a few tens RPM to ~4000 RPM. c. 8k rpm at the low end - so you would have to gear it a fair bit. Found some on RS - surprisingly cheap. CPC have some as well - I posted a link a few days back - 3 models upto 1.5kW -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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John Rumm wrote:
CPC have some as well - I posted a link a few days back - 3 models upto 1.5kW Found it - great, thanks. -- Grunff |
#17
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John Rumm wrote:
CPC have some as well - I posted a link a few days back - 3 models upto 1.5kW Any idea what would happen if I used the output from one of these to feed a device which already has its own speed controller (like a router)? Would it work? -- Grunff |
#18
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Grunff wrote:
John Rumm wrote: CPC have some as well - I posted a link a few days back - 3 models upto 1.5kW Any idea what would happen if I used the output from one of these to feed a device which already has its own speed controller (like a router)? Would it work? You would end up with cascaded PWM controllers... The switching rates would be unsynchronised so you would get aliasing between them. Net result sounds like lots of edges (hence broadband noise) and not alot of power. That is assuming you do not kill one of the controllers. All in all I think I would avoid that one ;-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#19
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In article ,
Grunff wrote: And forget using a variac for speed control - save it for the "electric gherkin" demonstration (Google for "electric pickle"). But I love variacs! And I have several of them... If you're on a tight budget, a decent variac is likely to sell on Ebay for more than the cost of a phase control module. -- *60-year-old, one owner - needs parts, make offer Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#20
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
If you're on a tight budget, a decent variac is likely to sell on Ebay for more than the cost of a phase control module. It's not so much that - I wouldn't want to sell any of my variacs - but it's the kind of project where I try to use whatever I have available. The CPC modules at £12 seem like a very good deal. -- Grunff |
#21
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In article ,
Grunff wrote: I need a variable speed mains AC motor for a project I'm working on. Ideally, I'd like to be able to vary the speed using a variac. It needs to go up to ~4000 RPM, which is beyond most mains drills. Any ideas on where I can get one, or what bits of equipment I can cannibalise? The motor in our Hoover w/m looks a serious bit of kit. 1-2 HP, integrated speed sensor, smooth closed-loop electronic speed control, in either direction. The pulley ratio suggests that, at 1200rpm on the drum, the motor shaft must be doing over 6000rpm. But you need a circuit diagram to see how to wire one up. -- Tony Williams. |
#22
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Tony Williams wrote:
The motor in our Hoover w/m looks a serious bit of kit. 1-2 HP, integrated speed sensor, smooth closed-loop electronic speed control, in either direction. The pulley ratio suggests that, at 1200rpm on the drum, the motor shaft must be doing over 6000rpm. But you need a circuit diagram to see how to wire one up. I think that's probably way bigger than I need. I really should have specified the power requirement in my original post :-) -- Grunff |
#23
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In article ,
Grunff wrote: Tony Williams wrote: The motor in our Hoover w/m looks a serious bit of kit. 1-2 HP...... I think that's probably way bigger than I need. I really should have specified the power requirement in my original post :-) A Strimmer or Flymo motor then? Don't run any universal motor on no-load though, because of runaway. -- Tony Williams. |
#24
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In article ,
Tony Williams writes: The motor in our Hoover w/m looks a serious bit of kit. 1-2 HP, integrated speed sensor, smooth closed-loop electronic speed control, in either direction. The pulley ratio suggests that, at 1200rpm on the drum, the motor shaft must be doing over 6000rpm. But you need a circuit diagram to see how to wire one up. You have to be careful reusing washing machine motors. Off-load speed with no feedback control is often significantly faster than the speed at which the motor armature flies into pieces, rather explosively. I am also aware of cases where the microprocessor servo control has failed to limit the speed when there's no load too, so again be careful, even if you think you have the servo control connected up correctly when the load isn't the expected washing machine drum. (The case I came across, the microprocessor crashes if the speed increase is as fast as it is with no load, and leaves the motor powered and running much faster than its top speed.) -- Andrew Gabriel |
#25
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Washing machine motors need to have chickens sacrificed to them before
you can understand their arcana. |
#26
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In article ,
Grunff wrote: I need a variable speed mains AC motor for a project I'm working on. Ideally, I'd like to be able to vary the speed using a variac. It needs to go up to ~4000 RPM, which is beyond most mains drills. Any ideas on where I can get one, or what bits of equipment I can cannibalise? If it helps, the speed of a drill motor is something like 10,000 rpm before the gearbox. -- *Welcome to **** Creek - sorry, we're out of paddles* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#27
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
If it helps, the speed of a drill motor is something like 10,000 rpm before the gearbox. There's a thought - and you get speed control as part of the deal. Maybe it's time for a PP drill. -- Grunff |
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