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s--p--o--n--i--x
 
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Default 155mm hole...which drill?

I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if it
gets knackered)

What would be the minimum spec I should look for? Would a bottom of
the range SDS drill be up to the job?
  #2   Report Post  
 
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I've bought the cheapo (29.99) SDS drill from screwfix - and a box of
attachments. Not drilled anything with it yet but used it to remoev an
entire room of tiles and to chissle out 20cm of concrete....

I'd be surprised if it wasn't up for the job to be honest - seems quite
a powerful beast for teh money - though clearly - it isn't a
top-of-the-range item - so expect it to die at somepoint!

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if

it
gets knackered)

What would be the minimum spec I should look for? Would a bottom of
the range SDS drill be up to the job?


  #4   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
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Default

In article ,
s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
Thanks..it doesn't have to last beyond a few holes.


Whilst on the subject does anyone know a good source for core drills,
specifically between 152-155mm?


The hire shop want £15 plus £53 wear charge. I can get a new one on
ebay for that!


If cost matters but time doesn't, you could drill a series of holes with
say a 10mm SDS, then use your chisel option to remove the rest. Easy to
make a neat enough job given even a core drill made hole will need sealing
afterwards.

--
*Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #5   Report Post  
s--p--o--n--i--x
 
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On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 15:47:20 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

If cost matters but time doesn't, you could drill a series of holes with
say a 10mm SDS, then use your chisel option to remove the rest. Easy to
make a neat enough job given even a core drill made hole will need sealing
afterwards.


Cost doesn't matter up to a point. What annoys me is that they want to
impose a minimum charge that is a rad more than buying a new one.
Granted, theirs will be better quality but I'm only drilling two
holes!

I'll ponder your suggestion of drilling a series of holes and using a
chisel.


  #6   Report Post  
John
 
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"s--p--o--n--i--x" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 15:47:20 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

If cost matters but time doesn't, you could drill a series of holes with
say a 10mm SDS, then use your chisel option to remove the rest. Easy to
make a neat enough job given even a core drill made hole will need sealing
afterwards.


Cost doesn't matter up to a point. What annoys me is that they want to
impose a minimum charge that is a rad more than buying a new one.
Granted, theirs will be better quality but I'm only drilling two
holes!

I'll ponder your suggestion of drilling a series of holes and using a
chisel.


HSS used to have hire charge plus a cost per mm of wear. Unless you were
getting exotic the wear wasn't usually measurable on a brief hire


  #7   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
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In article ,
s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
Cost doesn't matter up to a point. What annoys me is that they want to
impose a minimum charge that is a rad more than buying a new one.
Granted, theirs will be better quality but I'm only drilling two
holes!


I'll ponder your suggestion of drilling a series of holes and using a
chisel.


Thing is if you're using one of those cheap but powerful drills without a
torque limiter, something like drilling a 150mm hole is the most likely
thing to tear it out of your hands. A proper core drill has larger handles
(and a torque limiter) to minimise the possibility of harm.

For just two holes I'd not bother with a pukka cutter. By the time you
got to the hire shop and back, the job would be done.

--
*Failure is not an option. It's bundled with your software.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #9   Report Post  
John Rumm
 
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s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:

I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if it
gets knackered)

What would be the minimum spec I should look for? Would a bottom of
the range SDS drill be up to the job?


I have done a couple of 107mm holes using a diamond core in our very
hard brick / render wall. Once deep in the hole it close to the clutch
torque limit my 780W Makita SDS. In softer material you may get away
with a bigger hole and the same amount of power. You could also look at
the thinner kerf TCT core drills that screwfix do since these are
supposed to require less power (and you don't need the longevity of
diamond).

I would not take on a 6" hole unless your drill has a safety clutch and
ideally variable speed.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #10   Report Post  
Alex
 
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save your money and hire the tool,you will not drill 155mm hole with cheap
tools,either they or you will burn out




  #11   Report Post  
Jim Alexander
 
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"s--p--o--n--i--x" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if it
gets knackered)

What would be the minimum spec I should look for? Would a bottom of
the range SDS drill be up to the job?


I have found a 780W SDS drill geared to about 1000rpm just on the limit for
managing a 100mm diamond core-cut in brick. Don't think it would have
managed 155mm. Hiring a 155mm core bit and a suitable drill is big money
not counting the worry about the wear charge. If its just a couple of
holes suggest getting a SDS drill cheap or better as you wish, a decent 10mm
bit and drill round the opening then break out with a chisel. If its a
twin leaf wall drill a centre hole through and then each leaf individually.
There is a lot of drilling this way, you will find a 2-3kg drill better than
the 5-6kg real cheapos unless you are a weightlifter.

Jim A



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The Natural Philosopher
 
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Jim Alexander wrote:

"s--p--o--n--i--x" wrote in message
...

I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if it
gets knackered)

What would be the minimum spec I should look for? Would a bottom of
the range SDS drill be up to the job?



I have found a 780W SDS drill geared to about 1000rpm just on the limit for
managing a 100mm diamond core-cut in brick. Don't think it would have
managed 155mm. Hiring a 155mm core bit and a suitable drill is big money
not counting the worry about the wear charge. If its just a couple of
holes suggest getting a SDS drill cheap or better as you wish, a decent 10mm
bit and drill round the opening then break out with a chisel.


I go with this approach.

That and a bit of work with a small chisel to clean up afterwards. and
mortar and sealer to sort out any leaks..

If its a
twin leaf wall drill a centre hole through and then each leaf individually.
There is a lot of drilling this way, you will find a 2-3kg drill better than
the 5-6kg real cheapos unless you are a weightlifter.

Jim A



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John
 
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"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:

I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if it
gets knackered)

What would be the minimum spec I should look for? Would a bottom of
the range SDS drill be up to the job?


I have done a couple of 107mm holes using a diamond core in our very hard
brick / render wall. Once deep in the hole it close to the clutch torque
limit my 780W Makita SDS. In softer material you may get away with a
bigger hole and the same amount of power. You could also look at the
thinner kerf TCT core drills that screwfix do since these are supposed to
require less power (and you don't need the longevity of diamond).

I would not take on a 6" hole unless your drill has a safety clutch and
ideally variable speed.


My 127 mm cutter binds like hell unless I use the vacuum dust extraction
attachement. This keeps the cutter faces and hole clear and the problem goes
away.
I'd simply hire the whole shebang from a "decent" hire firm for a couple of
holes


  #14   Report Post  
Mark Evans
 
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Default

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if it
gets knackered)


There are a couple of problems you can have drilling brick walls with
a core drill
a) using it on hammer action can knock the bricks out of the wall.
b) if the drill binds it will try and twist you.
  #15   Report Post  
Jim Alexander
 
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Default


"Mark Evans" wrote in message
...
s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
I need to drill a couple of 155mm holes in a wall (Breeze/red brick)
with a core drill.

As I only need to drill a few holes I'm thinking of buying a cheap
drill for the job (As it's cheaper than hiring it doesn't matter if it
gets knackered)


There are a couple of problems you can have drilling brick walls with
a core drill
a) using it on hammer action can knock the bricks out of the wall.


Yep, this is a problem with TCT drilling but not with a diamond core which
must be used without hammer.

I'm sure I remember hiring a TCT bit/Kango combo which did little more than
scribe a circle before I got tired holding it up, if I recall.

b) if the drill binds it will try and twist you.


Indeed, which is why people who have been there advocate getting a drill
with a safety clutch. The real cheapos don't seem to feature this, even
the Axminster, though at least their brochure cautions about this.

Jim A


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