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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Trying to get a silver-black finish on a newly stripped cast-iron fireplace
As I've mentioned in a previous post I've stripped some fireplaces and
underneath the layers of paint they're a rather attractive silver-black colour. I'd like to put something on to protect them (preferably not paint)which would ideally give a shiny finish but keep the silver-black colour. I've tried my local fireplace shop and they recommended Stovax Traditional Graphite Black Grate Polish which I tried on a small section but it seems to give a very black finish. I've seen Zebo mentioned elsewhere but that is also described as Black Grate Polish. Any suggestions? |
#2
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"DIY Novice" wrote in message om... As I've mentioned in a previous post I've stripped some fireplaces and underneath the layers of paint they're a rather attractive silver-black colour. I'd like to put something on to protect them (preferably not paint)which would ideally give a shiny finish but keep the silver-black colour. I've tried my local fireplace shop and they recommended Stovax Traditional Graphite Black Grate Polish which I tried on a small section but it seems to give a very black finish. I've seen Zebo mentioned elsewhere but that is also described as Black Grate Polish. Any suggestions? My parents always used Zebright i seem to remember, my father makes wrought iron firebaskets and they used to come up well with the stuff.....not black, more metallic looking. Hope this helps Lloyd |
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"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... It was somewhere outside Barstow when (DIY Novice) wrote: Any suggestions? Zebo is graphite ("blacklead") in oil. If you buff it enough, it is _somewhat_ silvery. In contrast, Liberon's black patina wax is very black, with absolutely no metallic sheen to it. If you really want a "silvery" finish though, go with a neutral wax polish like Liberon's Black Bison range. With some work you can also tint these waxes, including mixing in a little fake-silver wax Would the metallic powders supplied by Tiranti have the same effect? Mary (Screwfix used to sell this, but sadly they now only do gold). |
#5
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It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Mary Fisher"
wrote: Would the metallic powders supplied by Tiranti have the same effect? Yes, but they're a nightmare to mix in. Very prone to clumping. Only way I've found to work is to mix the powder into a little turpentine, then melt the wax and stir the turpentine in. For a coloured wax, you probably want a little extra turpentine in there anyway, to make sure it spreads and covers well. You can get these metal powders from many fibreglass suppliers, although they tend to be in large quantities - they're commonly used for "cold-cast" sculpture. (BTW - Today I'm making a crude replica of the Mastermyr chest) |
#6
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"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Mary Fisher" wrote: Would the metallic powders supplied by Tiranti have the same effect? Yes, but they're a nightmare to mix in. Very prone to clumping. I've never noticed that. But I've only used them s a surface coating, unmixedwith anything. Only way I've found to work is to mix the powder into a little turpentine, then melt the wax and stir the turpentine in. For a coloured wax, you probably want a little extra turpentine in there anyway, to make sure it spreads and covers well. You can get these metal powders from many fibreglass suppliers, although they tend to be in large quantities - they're commonly used for "cold-cast" sculpture. Yes. (BTW - Today I'm making a crude replica of the Mastermyr chest) Nice, for your tools or a commission? Mary |
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It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Mary Fisher"
wrote: (BTW - Today I'm making a crude replica of the Mastermyr chest) Nice, for your tools or a commission? I'm just trying to get rid of surplus timber. This is an old "Nakashima style" slab table that was made in the '60s, and I found in a flat clearance a couple of weeks ago. It had been used as a plant stand by someone with very poor aim when watering and was only fit for firewood. However I can never throw timber away, so I scrounged it. Then discovered on planing it up that was 1 1/2" thick plane (a maple relative). Huge splits in the middle, but ripping the centre out turned it into 9' of 8" wide timber. That's enough to make a slightly shortened Mastermyr, in nice timber thick enough to allow relief carving. I'll probably use it as a toolbox on the LARP circuit this summer (Heartland Games - I'll be selling glasswork, furniture and tiaras). If I ever do carve it, I'll probably give it awy to someone - shame to sell it, it wouldn't raise enough to make a worthwhile hourly rate. |
#8
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In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote: However I can never throw timber away, so I scrounged it. Then discovered on planing it up that was 1 1/2" thick plane (a maple relative). Huge splits in the middle, but ripping the centre out turned it into 9' of 8" wide timber. That's enough to make a slightly shortened Mastermyr, in nice timber thick enough to allow relief carving. I'll probably use it as a toolbox on the LARP circuit this summer (Heartland Games - I'll be selling glasswork, furniture and tiaras). If I ever do carve it, I'll probably give it awy to someone - shame to sell it, it wouldn't raise enough to make a worthwhile hourly rate. My hero. ;-) -- *Prepositions are not words to end sentences with * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#9
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"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Mary Fisher" wrote: (BTW - Today I'm making a crude replica of the Mastermyr chest) Nice, for your tools or a commission? I'm just trying to get rid of surplus timber. This is an old "Nakashima style" slab table that was made in the '60s, and I found in a flat clearance a couple of weeks ago. It had been used as a plant stand by someone with very poor aim when watering and was only fit for firewood. However I can never throw timber away, so I scrounged it. Then discovered on planing it up that was 1 1/2" thick plane (a maple relative). Huge splits in the middle, but ripping the centre out turned it into 9' of 8" wide timber. That's enough to make a slightly shortened Mastermyr, in nice timber thick enough to allow relief carving. I'll probably use it as a toolbox on the LARP circuit this summer (Heartland Games - I'll be selling glasswork, furniture and tiaras). If I ever do carve it, I'll probably give it awy to someone - shame to sell it, it wouldn't raise enough to make a worthwhile hourly rate. Hmm. .... It would be very nice in our Viking tent :-) Mary |
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