I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

On 6 Mar 2005 10:02:12 -0800, "selfbuilder"
wrote:

I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

They haven't got used to it yet. As a kid I lived in a house with
underfloor central heating and as an adult I still spend half my time
(like now) sitting on the floor even though sadly I cannot have
underfloor central heating in my current house. As heat rises it is
the perfect place to put the heat source

Very impressed by your website. If the house is as good it will be
wonderful

Anna

~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs
/ ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____| www.kettlenet.co.uk 01359 230642

"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...
On 6 Mar 2005 10:02:12 -0800, "selfbuilder"
wrote:

I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

They haven't got used to it yet. As a kid I lived in a house with
underfloor central heating and as an adult I still spend half my time
(like now) sitting on the floor even though sadly I cannot have
underfloor central heating in my current house. As heat rises it is
the perfect place to put the heat source

Very impressed by your website. If the house is as good it will be
wonderful

Er, best place my arse, it's expensive in comparison to most other types of
heating, and not just installation; watch your gas bills soar!

Goo Goo wrote:
"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...

On 6 Mar 2005 10:02:12 -0800, "selfbuilder"
wrote:


I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

They haven't got used to it yet. As a kid I lived in a house with
underfloor central heating and as an adult I still spend half my time
(like now) sitting on the floor even though sadly I cannot have
underfloor central heating in my current house. As heat rises it is
the perfect place to put the heat source

Very impressed by your website. If the house is as good it will be
wonderful


Er, best place my arse, it's expensive in comparison to most other types of
heating, and not just installation; watch your gas bills soar!


Oh God, please don't tell me DIMM's changed his name again!

KILLFILE

selfbuilder wrote:

I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

I adore mine beyond belief.

It won't make your feet too hot unless you have extremely poor
insulation. Floor generally is no more than about 30C max at the
surface. That gives a more than adequate heat transfer into the room.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
selfbuilder wrote:

I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has
any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this
point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

I adore mine beyond belief.

It won't make your feet too hot unless you have extremely poor
insulation. Floor generally is no more than about 30C max at the
surface. That gives a more than adequate heat transfer into the room.

Thinking about putting the same in my new build.
Some one suggested that you are better with hard floor coverings as
carpets do not let the heat through so well?? Any thoughts/ what have
you?
Also how many zones do you split this into. Helping to wire a current
new build where the owner is having 7 zones on the ground floor alone.
Again I would be interested to know what others think as i always
regarded UFH as primarily an always on, i.e. adjust the temp of the
pipework to maintain a constant temperature. I can accept a set back
during the night for downstairs and understand main areas needing a
room stat as lots of guests and you would be cooking. But is more zones
the better = normal?
I will probably go with radiators upstairs for ease although again
would be interested in what others think.

Regards
Legin

Goo Goo wrote:

Er, best place my arse

That's what Anna was saying and hence the reason for her sitting on the
floor.

it's expensive in comparison to most other types of heating,

You were ripped off then.

and not just installation; watch your gas bills soar!

One of the most efficient heating systems available , IF properly
designed and installed and IF used in conjunction with a condensing
boilers.

selfbuilder wrote:
I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

Some people like it. Others hate it. If it's for you, see if you can
visit someone who's got it and see what you think. Personally, I hate
it, it gives what seems to me an unnatural effect (unless you're an
Icelander), and would positively go out of my way to avoid it! I have no
idea of the costs or reliability of the various options.

legin wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

selfbuilder wrote:


I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has

any

advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this

point

and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.


I adore mine beyond belief.

It won't make your feet too hot unless you have extremely poor
insulation. Floor generally is no more than about 30C max at the
surface. That gives a more than adequate heat transfer into the room.


Thinking about putting the same in my new build.
Some one suggested that you are better with hard floor coverings as
carpets do not let the heat through so well?? Any thoughts/ what have
you?

This is a factor, but the way iot works is this.

The floor gets hot.

The heat has to travel to teh air to warm teh room.

If yiu put insulation in tehgway (carpet) it has to get a but hotter
underneath to get teh surface to teh same temp.

That means there is more heatloss downwards, but you can sort that with
extra under floor insulation (polystyrene)

The limit comes when the concrete is so hot its in danger of cracking,
and the insulation above is so thick that the room is still cold.

I've got concrete, foam layer, engineered real wood laminate and rugs.
It works well. I should have put in more insutlation underneath though.
Ive only got 35mm.


Also how many zones do you split this into. Helping to wire a current
new build where the owner is having 7 zones on the ground floor alone.

As mansy as is necessaray.

Its a moot point.

Whaty I did, was to have one 'zone' for all the UFH. This has a single
thermistat and single timer on it. It comprises 8 circuits, all of which
COULD be independently controlled, but I don;'t boher. Each circuit has
its won flow control valve. In practice I balanced the setup to set the
temperatures I wanted, and let the stat control the lot.

Ideally every circuit could have a TRV or even am electric stat going
back to a motorised actuator on the manifold. But you end up with a lot
of wiring as all those stats need to be 'or'ed' together to drive teh
underfloor pump.


Again I would be interested to know what others think as i always
regarded UFH as primarily an always on, i.e. adjust the temp of the
pipework to maintain a constant temperature. I can accept a set back
during the night for downstairs and understand main areas needing a
room stat as lots of guests and you would be cooking. But is more zones
the better = normal?

We don't run it 'always on' - in winter its on all day, but spring and
autumn its on in teh evenings, and at about 5a.m to take the chill off
the floor. In summer the stat never brings it on anyway whatever the
settings.

It takes about 2-3hours to come up from an overnight low to working
temperature.

I will probably go with radiators upstairs for ease although again
would be interested in what others think.


I agree mostly. Its nice to have it upstairs as well, but it gets
expenive in wood floors. I think if I did it agan I would bite teh
bullet and do it upstairs, but a lot depends on other factors like
appearance of house, budgets and so on.

Regards
Legin

have a look at www.polyplumb.co.uk Lots of info there.

Read thorough all these and as most of them are positive Ithink I'm
going to have it, there won't be much money left for furniture so it
might be useful to sit on the floor comfortably Interesting points
about running costs and questions aboiut having it upstairs as well, my
architect suggests radiators upstairs as there are some lovely narrow
ones out there now, I'm still undecided.

The more zones better I reckon but I'm pretty sure that decison is
based on wanting lots of knobs to turn on the manifold!

Defainately going to find somewhere to visit it, maybe look for a show
house or somthing or there might be some at the next H&R show.

"Aidan" wrote in message
ups.com...

Goo Goo wrote:

Er, best place my arse

That's what Anna was saying and hence
the reason for her sitting on the floor.

it's expensive in comparison to most
other types of heating,

You were ripped off then.

and not just installation; watch your gas bills soar!

One of the most efficient heating systems
available , IF properly designed and installed
and IF used in conjunction with a condensing
boilers.

Not quite. Efficient when running, but as you need it on 24/7, even with
temp setback at night, it can be quite expensive to run. For it to provide
proper comfort conditions you need to:

1. have it properly designed
2. properly controlled
3. properly installed.

If one of the above is lacking you may regret this expensive undertaking.
Many companies are pushing UFH kits, even Screwfix have one, these will only
create grief for many.

The control can be complicated to attain good comfort levels, this requires
specialist skills and controls, all of which is expensive. Most installer
will not entertain it as it is too specialised. Only engage a company that
specialises in UFH.

It is expensive overall to install, so in a selfbuild you would be better
spending the money on insulation to superinsulation standards and having a
partial heating system. Then little to go wrong and super low bills.

UFH is fine for large high areas like churches and maybe barn conversions,
where you can't reach superinsulation levels because of the existing
structure.

What sort of house is being built? I would suggest a re-think on
air-tightness and insulation. Look at how the Canadians build houses, who
say "Build tight and ventilate right".



_________________________________________
Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server
More than 120,000 groups
Unlimited download
http://www.usenetzone.com to open account

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

I've got concrete, foam layer, engineered real wood laminate and rugs.
It works well. I should have put in more insutlation underneath though.
Ive only got 35mm.

35mm? It seems like you are heating a lot of Suffolk earth. The flowers
must love you.




_________________________________________
Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server
More than 120,000 groups
Unlimited download
http://www.usenetzone.com to open account

Building a four bed with timber frame with most of the ground floor
open plan but it will be highly insulated with 140 instead of 90
exterior panels but I am lacking in knowledge insulation wise other
than that. Will probably invest in double layer boarding or acoustic
boarding, perhaps that helps with thermal insulation as well. Will
check out the canadians too, thanks for that idea.

"selfbuilder" wrote in message
oups.com...

Building a four bed with timber frame with most of the ground floor
open plan but it will be highly insulated with 140 instead of 90
exterior panels but I am lacking in knowledge insulation wise other
than that. Will probably invest in double layer boarding or acoustic
boarding, perhaps that helps with thermal insulation as well. Will
check out the canadians too, thanks for that idea.

Use Warmcell insulation as it kills two birds with one stone. Warmcell is
made for timber frame. Aim to get 0.1ish U values in the walls. 400-450mm
in the roof. Thermal conductivity value (k) of 0.035 W/mK in lofts and the
ability to create airtightness. Do a Google on "Warmcell". Excell
industries install it.

Then to get the U vales low enough you may need to spray in Warmcell into
the hollow walls and have high performing Kinspan over the outside of the
frame, which also eliminates cold bridging through the studs and through the
floor joists that hang off the studs. Warmcell gives insulation values that
would have walls 25% thicker with other methods.

Have about 100mm of foam in the floor. Avoid cold bridges where the floor,
walls, roof meet.

Have triple glazed low "e" windows and highly insulated doors. People forget
doors.

Once the U values are right down you can then install a Heat Recovery and
Vent system. Have the ducting uprated and have an in-line duct heater
battery heated by a gas boiler. That should do the low levels of heating you
require, and no rads on walls, etc, expet maybe towel rails in the
bathrooms.

To keep water bills right down have a rainwater recyling tank in the garden
it will pay for itself quite quickly. Most modern home pay more for water
these days than gas.

Once you have your plan, do not backtrack, keep to it. What eco ideas do
you have?



_________________________________________
Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server
More than 120,000 groups
Unlimited download
http://www.usenetzone.com to open account

Chris Bacon wrote:

selfbuilder wrote:

I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.


Some people like it. Others hate it. If it's for you, see if you can
visit someone who's got it and see what you think. Personally, I hate
it, it gives what seems to me an unnatural effect (unless you're an
Icelander), and would positively go out of my way to avoid it! I have no
idea of the costs or reliability of the various options.

Funnily enough, we take the opposite view. Its a very natural effect.
You don't actually feel that the room is being heated at all, unless you
come in from outside.

It just feels equable and comfortable, like waliking on a beach in late
summer, with the warm sand beteen your toes.;-)

selfbuilder wrote:

Read thorough all these and as most of them are positive Ithink I'm
going to have it, there won't be much money left for furniture so it
might be useful to sit on the floor comfortably Interesting points
about running costs and questions aboiut having it upstairs as well, my
architect suggests radiators upstairs as there are some lovely narrow
ones out there now, I'm still undecided.

The more zones better I reckon but I'm pretty sure that decison is
based on wanting lots of knobs to turn on the manifold!


You NEED a circuit per room. In some cases more since the recommended
simngle maxim pipe run is 50 meters- 100 meters.

In my largets rooms, tehre are two curcuits of 75 meters each. Thats to
get an estimated 80W/square meter output, which is OK for decent
insulated room.

Each of thiose circuits has independent balancing abnd shutoof. Thats
all in te manifold. (polyplumb)

Whether youu chose to stick extra controls on the circuits is a matter
of choice.

In our house is not such an issue. Underfloor covres kitchen, living
room, dining room, utility room, downtsiars toliet and dog shower, and
rear hall and corridoor - thats also heats the upper stairwell and
corridoor as well by convection.

Ther is an annex with a kitchen in it that is also equpiied, but thats
turned down to 'frost ssttings; unless we have guests in there.

The front hall is also heated, but fairly inadequuately, and that leaves
teh froimnt landing a tad cool, but its not an issue since teh bedrooms
up that end have ensuite, so no one neds to pad about there in teh
middle of the night getting frostbite :-)

Because of the general lifestyle and openeness of the ground floor bit,
we really never need to control most of this indepenmdently, and the
doors are uaually all open so the whole ground floor equalises to a more
or less constant temperature. Controlled by a single thermostat.

Unless you ahve a real requierment to control areas at precise but
different temperatures, and overall stat is probably fine. I am sure
that by spending another grand on installation of valevs and stats I
could save a hundred quid a year, but its easier to turn the stat down a
bit and wear a woolly, and light one of the fires.

I will say though that bedrooms - largely unnocupoied by day, and with
less thermal mass - do need to be on a different zone. They genrellay
come on at dusk or later, rather than the 3pm which seems to suit the
underfloor.

In my case they are equipped with hot water fan assisted convectors.
This is for special reason relaed to te hhouse design, and not something
I necessarily recommend, though it works pretty well for us.

If I were to do it again, from green field, I think I would underfloor
everywhere and run massive cables for stats in every room, but not
necessariliy use them. Radio stats might be a good ideas as well, or
something that runs on CAT 5, which IS everywhere, and a computer
controlled suite of valves.

At least for te upstairs rooms, which are individually used on a
occasional basis.

As it is, we just switch the fans off, and let the small amount of water
circulating through the fan units do teh frost stat bit.

In principle its no different from rdaioator. In theory each room is a
zine, and has a motorized valve and a stat with the whole lot wire orred
back to teh boiler and pump. but no one goes that far mostly. TRV's and
a stat. You can do the same with UFH if you like. But its ugly to have
TRV's stuck everywhere.











Defainately going to find somewhere to visit it, maybe look for a show
house or somthing or there might be some at the next H&R show.

selfbuilder wrote:

Building a four bed with timber frame with most of the ground floor
open plan but it will be highly insulated with 140 instead of 90
exterior panels but I am lacking in knowledge insulation wise other
than that. Will probably invest in double layer boarding or acoustic
boarding, perhaps that helps with thermal insulation as well. Will
check out the canadians too, thanks for that idea.



Everything helps. Look out for micro leaks and cold bridges that start
to really make a difference at high insulation levels. I've got 7" walls
stuffed with rockwool, but there are cracks in the airtighteness, and in
the wind, it loses efficiency. Be absoulterly meticu;losu on terms of
gap filling and so on.

Celotex will give you more isnulation per unit thickness, but it costs a
packet.

If ground floor is concrete, go for at least 50mm even 75mm of
polystyrene. Epecially if its a raised block and beam floor., I saved a
packet by lacing UFH pipe to reinforceing mesh with tie wraps before
screeding.

You willlikley have a brick plinth at teh house base - I have. This is
also a poor insuator - rockwool bats down teh inside if you can, and
lots of it.

Thresholds to the outside will inevitably span that with a 'cold bridge'
so be careful, and try and put polystrene up teh edges of the wall to
the screed top level. This allows concrete to expand as well.

With insulation, the devil is in the detail. Make full use of acrylic
mastic to seal ALL gaps. Or foil tape if using celotex.

Doctor Evil wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote
I've got concrete, foam layer, engineered real wood laminate and rugs.
It works well. I should have put in more insutlation underneath though.
Ive only got 35mm.
35mm? It seems like you are heating a lot of Suffolk earth. The flowers
must love you.

Now if the neighbours could mole a geothermal collector under TNP's
foundations ...

Owain

selfbuilder wrote:
Read thorough all these and as most of them are positive Ithink I'm
going to have it, there won't be much money left for furniture so it
might be useful to sit on the floor comfortably Interesting points
about running costs and questions aboiut having it upstairs as well, my
architect suggests radiators upstairs as there are some lovely narrow
ones out there now, I'm still undecided.

The more zones better I reckon but I'm pretty sure that decison is
based on wanting lots of knobs to turn on the manifold!

Defainately going to find somewhere to visit it, maybe look for a show
house or somthing or there might be some at the next H&R show.

I'm in the process of installing it over the entire upstairs "living"
area - Got it all drawn up and supplied by Nu-Heat http://www.nu-heat.co.uk/

It's run 18mm Aluplex from the manifold to a distributob box in each
room (zone) then multiple 10mm "fast-flow" PeX pipe circuits.
Our lounge is 6 circuits. Max. circuit length is 35m so I am presuming
heat is spread more efficiently over the floor than 1 or 2 big
"full-bore" circuits.

Having dealt with Nu-Heat I would say they produce a superb installation
guide and have (so far) provided excellent support on every aspect of
installation. Prolly a fair bit more expensive than putting the whole
package together from the likes of Polyplumb etc, but knowing the whole
thing has been planned "profesionally" right down to individual flow
rates required for each port gives me great peace of mind.

Downstairs bedrooms will have to survive with existing radiators for
several years to come.

I'm just hoping it really _is_ like warm sand between my toes.
If nothing else, at least it might keep the bloody dogs off the
furniture if they have a nice warm floor to sit on.

:¬)

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes)

On 7 Mar 2005 04:19:29 -0800, "selfbuilder"
wrote:

Read thorough all these and as most of them are positive Ithink I'm
going to have it,

We fitted UFH in a new build some 12 years ago and would do the same
again - much nicer and cheaper to run than any other heating.

Interesting points about running costs

Our neighbour built an almost identical house with conventional
radiators. Both houses have similar patterns of occupancy and both
use gas condensing boilers. His bills are consistently about 15%
higher than ours.

and questions aboiut having it upstairs as well,

we have it upstairs - using aluminium spreader plates. Works fine.


--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

Chris Bacon wrote:

Some people like it. Others hate it. If it's for you, see if you can
visit someone who's got it and see what you think. Personally, I hate

it, it gives what seems to me an unnatural effect (unless you're an
Icelander)

What difference would it make if you were an Icelander?

Thanks for the superb information. Now i'm tempted to go for it
upstairs as well. Seems critical that it is insulated beneath even
upstairs? If air tightness is done well and based on the theory that
heat rises, is this a real issue? Certainely downstairs I would
insulate. In fact newer regs call for approx 100mm polystyrene or 60mm
celotex, depends on p/a =perimeter (external walls)/ area of floor. If
i went for one circuit downstairs, with numerous zones contined within,
one circuit upstairs and seperate circuit for hot water then I would
need a three circuit programmer. Is there such a beast?

Regards

Legin

Owain wrote:

Doctor Evil wrote:

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote

I've got concrete, foam layer, engineered real wood laminate and rugs.
It works well. I should have put in more insutlation underneath though.
Ive only got 35mm.

35mm? It seems like you are heating a lot of Suffolk earth. The flowers
must love you.


Now if the neighbours could mole a geothermal collector under TNP's
foundations ...


Its all the regulations require. Its a suspended floor though with about
9" of foamed concrete block under that. and 4" of screed over the top.

So about equivalent to a double brick wall with fibreglass batts down it.

If the wind doesn't blow, it is fine., but if the wind does, it is not
too good with the underfloor cavity being all ventilated etc.

I was surprised too, and went into the regs in detail. Essentially - and
its very true for a solid floor on teh earth - teh heat loss is far less
than you might expect because the conductivity through the ground is
actually quite low.

I.e. you do indeed build up a pool of warm soil under the average house,
and the heat has to travel through a lot of soil to get to the soil
surface qwhere its radiated away.

Sadly with block and beam, unless its calm, the wind pulls the warmer
air from under the house..

And of couyrse the regs don't account specifically for UFH, where the
floor is the warmest place.

So on reflection, I'd go thicker. But you don't have to by (building) law.





Owain

legin wrote:

Thanks for the superb information. Now i'm tempted to go for it
upstairs as well. Seems critical that it is insulated beneath even
upstairs?

No. Lack of isnulation upstairs will merely result in warm ceilings
downstairs. The overall energy loss of teh house will not be affected,
but of course, you want teh heat to go upwards to work at all,so you
need to fit that insulation, BUT its not MANDATORY.

I have a friend with a bathroom with CH pipes under teh floor - its chip
and slate over - and that is heated accidentally, but nicely, by the hot
water pipes.

All you actually need to do is fit rockwool and then run pipes between
joists. I am not particularly convinced by the use of the aluminium
reflectors. But I suppose they add a little.

Ask peter parry.


If air tightness is done well and based on the theory that
heat rises, is this a real issue? Certainely downstairs I would
insulate. In fact newer regs call for approx 100mm polystyrene or 60mm
celotex, depends on p/a =perimeter (external walls)/ area of floor. If
i went for one circuit downstairs, with numerous zones contined within,

Its one _zone_ and numerous _circuits_.

one circuit upstairs and seperate circuit for hot water then I would
need a three circuit programmer. Is there such a beast?

Yup. I have one. Hard to find but not impossible.

You also need and auxiliary pump and temp reducing valve. And a relay
somewhere.

I got the manifold for all the circuits, the pup and the reducing valve
as a unit from polyplumb - its lovely because each circuit has a flow
meter on it - siple but effective. I made my own control box as well.
Loads of wires and screw connectors and a relay.

You would need to possibly fit eiher two auxiliray pumps and two
manifolds to handle teh two zones, or a few motorsised valves to have
tow totally independent zones. The ployplmb maqnfolds can have actuators
added to function on a per CIRCUIT basis, but if you have 6-8 circuits
upstairs, it gets expensive.




Regards

Legin

Legin, I completely agree with you.

Selfbuilder


"legin" wrote in message roups.com...
Thanks for the superb information. Now i'm tempted to go for it
upstairs as well. Seems critical that it is insulated beneath even
upstairs? If air tightness is done well and based on the theory that
heat rises, is this a real issue? Certainely downstairs I would
insulate. In fact newer regs call for approx 100mm polystyrene or 60mm
celotex, depends on p/a =perimeter (external walls)/ area of floor. If
i went for one circuit downstairs, with numerous zones contined within,
one circuit upstairs and seperate circuit for hot water then I would
need a three circuit programmer. Is there such a beast?

Regards

Legin

Thank you.

"legin" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for the superb information. Now i'm tempted to go for it
upstairs as well. Seems critical that it is insulated beneath even
upstairs? If air tightness is done well and based on the theory that
heat rises,

Heat doesn't rise. Hot water and air rises.

is this a real issue? Certainely downstairs I would
insulate. In fact newer regs call for approx 100mm polystyrene or 60mm
celotex, depends on p/a =perimeter (external walls)/ area of floor. If
i went for one circuit downstairs, with numerous zones contined within,
one circuit upstairs and seperate circuit for hot water then I would
need a three circuit programmer. Is there such a beast?

Always go above the regs for insulation. The regs are the bare minimum.


_________________________________________
Usenet Zone Free Binaries Usenet Server
More than 120,000 groups
Unlimited download
http://www.usenetzone.com to open account

On 6 Mar 2005 10:02:12 -0800, "selfbuilder"
wrote:

I'm researching underfloor heating and was wondering if anyone has any
advise about it; somebody did tell me that they didn't like theirs
because it made their feet too hot! Looking for feedback on this point
and other aspects like suppliers and types of installation.

Don't use KEE Tripple tube, when it goes wrong you find the guarentee
is issued by an old guy who lives in the wilds of ireland, and doesn't
have a phone - oh and if you do find him - the company name of the top
of the garentee is a dud.

And if the maker of KEE tripple tube wants to sue me over this
statement then I'll see you in court, and I'll win.

Rick