While people are already thinking about filling gaps in floors (see an
earlier post about cork beading) I have a similar question.

We have, courtesy of the previous owners, sanded and varnished
floorboards in our living room and hall. The gaps between boards range
from basically nothing to about 4 or 5 mm. My SO doesn't mind them but
they bug me because I can feel each board under foot. I would like to
fill the gaps with something but, as it's a big job that think could
ruin an otherwise very good floor, I would like your advice.

Things I have read about:

Cork: Ok but will it last and how do I get it in the smaller gaps.

Sealant (silicone or otherwise): If flush I don't think it will last.

Caulking (as done on ships): Not bad but hard work and will likely leave
ridges.

Slivers of wood: Nice idea if you can get hold of them. Will need to
re-sand and varnish floor though.

Any other ideas?

If you think that I am being bugged by nothing feel free to say.
Everyone else I have spoken to (except what I am sure is B&Qs oldest
employee) things that I am mad for even caring.

Cheers

Graham

"doozer" wrote in message
...
While people are already thinking about filling gaps in floors (see an
earlier post about cork beading) I have a similar question.

We have, courtesy of the previous owners, sanded and varnished
floorboards in our living room and hall. The gaps between boards range
from basically nothing to about 4 or 5 mm. My SO doesn't mind them but
they bug me because I can feel each board under foot. I would like to
fill the gaps with something but, as it's a big job that think could
ruin an otherwise very good floor, I would like your advice.

Things I have read about:

Cork: Ok but will it last and how do I get it in the smaller gaps.

Sealant (silicone or otherwise): If flush I don't think it will last.

Caulking (as done on ships): Not bad but hard work and will likely leave
ridges.

Slivers of wood: Nice idea if you can get hold of them. Will need to
re-sand and varnish floor though.

Any other ideas?

If you think that I am being bugged by nothing feel free to say.
Everyone else I have spoken to (except what I am sure is B&Qs oldest
employee) things that I am mad for even caring.

Cheers

Graham

FWIW I filled my gaps with natural wood colour acrylic frame sealant. I also
( belt and braces ) caulked the gaps first with twisted hemp. One year on
things are fine: a few gaps have opened in the sealant, since wood moves,
and there must be something about this winter that has made it move more
than the last, but the
gaps are only about 1 - 1.5mm max, and then only along a few boards. I shall
probably reseal them with more frame sealant, but frankly there's no real
need.
Just my two penn'orth. I just realised that it is not draught or fluff or
spiders crawling through the gaps that annoys you, it is merely feeling the
gaps via your stocking feet! I have to say I have never even really
considered the feeling of the gaps on my feet, but the frame sealant is
actually slightly depressed wrt the boards so there certainly is a gap to
feel. I think you will have to consider something tougher than frame sealant
if you wish to make the gaps undetectable to the touch. Why don't you wear
some slippers!

Andy.

In article , "doozer"
says...
While people are already thinking about filling gaps in floors (see an
earlier post about cork beading) I have a similar question.

We have, courtesy of the previous owners, sanded and varnished
floorboards in our living room and hall. The gaps between boards range
from basically nothing to about 4 or 5 mm. My SO doesn't mind them but
they bug me because I can feel each board under foot. I would like to
fill the gaps with something but, as it's a big job that think could
ruin an otherwise very good floor, I would like your advice.

If it bothered me enough to do anything about it I'd be inclined to
go with clear silicone sealant, and see how it lasted.
Or lift the boards and re-lay them.

Rob Morley wrote:
In article , "doozer"
says...

While people are already thinking about filling gaps in floors (see an
earlier post about cork beading) I have a similar question.

We have, courtesy of the previous owners, sanded and varnished
floorboards in our living room and hall. The gaps between boards range
from basically nothing to about 4 or 5 mm. My SO doesn't mind them but
they bug me because I can feel each board under foot. I would like to
fill the gaps with something but, as it's a big job that think could
ruin an otherwise very good floor, I would like your advice.


If it bothered me enough to do anything about it I'd be inclined to
go with clear silicone sealant, and see how it lasted.
Or lift the boards and re-lay them.
Trouble with silicone is it won't take paint/stain/colour of any kind.
May not be a problem for OP though.
I wouldn't have bare boards where there would be gaps now as I recently
went under the floor of an old house that had this.
You could see quite clearly through the gaps.
As the space under the floor was 6-12" deep in 100+ years of god knows
what muck and rodent droppings, the potential effect on the health of
the residents was worrying, not to mention the draughts.

Why not put a carpet down?

Old Bill wrote:
Rob Morley wrote:

In article , "doozer"
says...

While people are already thinking about filling gaps in floors (see
an earlier post about cork beading) I have a similar question.

We have, courtesy of the previous owners, sanded and varnished
floorboards in our living room and hall. The gaps between boards
range from basically nothing to about 4 or 5 mm. My SO doesn't mind
them but they bug me because I can feel each board under foot. I
would like to fill the gaps with something but, as it's a big job
that think could ruin an otherwise very good floor, I would like your
advice.


If it bothered me enough to do anything about it I'd be inclined to go
with clear silicone sealant, and see how it lasted.
Or lift the boards and re-lay them.

Trouble with silicone is it won't take paint/stain/colour of any kind.
May not be a problem for OP though.
I wouldn't have bare boards where there would be gaps now as I recently
went under the floor of an old house that had this.
You could see quite clearly through the gaps.
As the space under the floor was 6-12" deep in 100+ years of god knows
what muck and rodent droppings, the potential effect on the health of
the residents was worrying, not to mention the draughts.

I'm not to worried about being able to stain it as I like the colour of
the natural wood (which is what we have at the moment) but not being
able to varnish over it would be a pain as the floor does need touching
up now and then when it looks a little shabby. I suspect you could
varnish over the sealant but it, the varnish, would then flake or peel
away over time. Although sealant would probably the the easiest I am not
sure it's the best solution.

As for gaps and dirt our place is only ~50 years old and has tongue and
grove throughout so there aren't really gaps into the space below the
floor except for where boards have been lifted to rewire. I ran a
network in last year so I had to lift quite a few boards and it is
pretty clean and dry down there. Because the house is on a bit of a
slope there is practically half a room hight at the front of the house.
Makes me want to do something with the space!

wrote:
Why not put a carpet down?

That is maybe an option. The boards are in good shape and have been
professionally finished so it seems a shame to cover them. We quite like
them as well, or least don't currently like carpet enough to cover them
if you see what I mean.

Floorboards are amazing easy to keep clean as well. Just attack with a
broom or a very quick go over with the vacuum (to get stuff out the
cracks). Once in a while mop them.

andrewpreece wrote:
"doozer" wrote in message
...

While people are already thinking about filling gaps in floors (see an
earlier post about cork beading) I have a similar question.

We have, courtesy of the previous owners, sanded and varnished
floorboards in our living room and hall. The gaps between boards range
from basically nothing to about 4 or 5 mm. My SO doesn't mind them but
they bug me because I can feel each board under foot. I would like to
fill the gaps with something but, as it's a big job that think could
ruin an otherwise very good floor, I would like your advice.

Things I have read about:

Cork: Ok but will it last and how do I get it in the smaller gaps.

Sealant (silicone or otherwise): If flush I don't think it will last.

Caulking (as done on ships): Not bad but hard work and will likely leave
ridges.

Slivers of wood: Nice idea if you can get hold of them. Will need to
re-sand and varnish floor though.

Any other ideas?

If you think that I am being bugged by nothing feel free to say.
Everyone else I have spoken to (except what I am sure is B&Qs oldest
employee) things that I am mad for even caring.

Cheers

Graham


FWIW I filled my gaps with natural wood colour acrylic frame sealant. I also
( belt and braces ) caulked the gaps first with twisted hemp. One year on
things are fine: a few gaps have opened in the sealant, since wood moves,
and there must be something about this winter that has made it move more
than the last, but the
gaps are only about 1 - 1.5mm max, and then only along a few boards. I shall
probably reseal them with more frame sealant, but frankly there's no real
need.
Just my two penn'orth. I just realised that it is not draught or fluff or
spiders crawling through the gaps that annoys you, it is merely feeling the
gaps via your stocking feet! I have to say I have never even really
considered the feeling of the gaps on my feet, but the frame sealant is
actually slightly depressed wrt the boards so there certainly is a gap to
feel. I think you will have to consider something tougher than frame sealant
if you wish to make the gaps undetectable to the touch. Why don't you wear
some slippers!

Andy.



I have my trusty pair of slippers to hand (well to foot to be more
precise) but sometimes it's nice to just to as nature intended.

I like the idea of thin slivers of pine (the boards are pine) glued up
and then banged into the gaps. The trouble is I have only found a few
posts on this which were fairly vague.

I actually bought some sealant and was going to give it a go on a small
section but chickened out at the last minute. I wasn't sure it would
match or that I would be able to get it out the gap if I didn't like it.

In article , "doozer"
says...
snip
I actually bought some sealant and was going to give it a go on a small
section but chickened out at the last minute. I wasn't sure it would
match or that I would be able to get it out the gap if I didn't like it.

If you want to try it you could apply some sort of release agent
(wax, vaseline?) to a small part, then apply sealant confident in the
knowledge that it will just peel off. You'll then need to scrub it
with something like white spirit before reapplying.

I'm not to worried about being able to stain it as I like the colour of
the natural wood (which is what we have at the moment) but not being able
to varnish over it would be a pain as the floor does need touching up now
and then when it looks a little shabby. I suspect you could varnish over
the sealant but it, the varnish, would then flake or peel away over time.
Although sealant would probably the the easiest I am not sure it's the
best solution.

As for gaps and dirt our place is only ~50 years old and has tongue and
grove throughout so there aren't really gaps into the space below the
floor except for where boards have been lifted to rewire. I ran a network
in last year so I had to lift quite a few boards and it is pretty clean
and dry down there. Because the house is on a bit of a slope there is
practically half a room hight at the front of the house. Makes me want to
do something with the space!
IME nothing makes the gaps unnoticeable. You're almost better off
accentuating them, but giving the impression at least of uniformity. Slivers
of wood are ok if your gaps are uniform and not tapered. Last time I did
this I ended up with 4 or 5 different thicknesses of sliver, and there were
still gaps where none of them quite fitted. Also, this is only an option if
you have a sawbench.
Cork is probably the best bet if you can find it roughly in the dimensions
to match your gaps. Laminate floor edging?
Any sort of filler will take forever to apply, and even longer to remove
from the board faces.
I rather fancy the twisted jute idea as a finish. Some sort of hard wearing
string/rope perhaps?

doozer wrote:
I like the idea of thin slivers of pine (the boards are pine) glued up
and then banged into the gaps. The trouble is I have only found a few
posts on this which were fairly vague.

You can do this, but only glue one side of the filling strip. Try to use
a slightly darker timber if you can.


I actually bought some sealant and was going to give it a go on a small
section but chickened out at the last minute. I wasn't sure it would
match or that I would be able to get it out the gap if I didn't like it.

Silicone sealant isn't really suitable - you can't overpaint or sensibly
stain the stuff, and it's a pain if you smear the job, and a pain to get
off if you need to. Again, if you use a filler, use one a fraction
darker than the boards. I have used papier mache on boards, made with a
dollop of wallpaper paste in the mix. It's OK, and will sand/stain
easily. However, you are likely to get some cracking as the boards will
continue to move over the years.

Chris Bacon wrote:
doozer wrote:

I like the idea of thin slivers of pine (the boards are pine) glued up
and then banged into the gaps. The trouble is I have only found a few
posts on this which were fairly vague.


You can do this, but only glue one side of the filling strip. Try to use
a slightly darker timber if you can.


Good point. Don't want to glue the floor solid :-)

I like the idea of using some dark hardwood but I suspect that would be
pig to get down into the gaps.

An idea just occurred to me though. What about balsa. It's fairly soft
and springy so expansion won't be such a problem and it's really easy to
work with. I think it would probably also take a stain right through the
wood as it's quite porous. Once it's got a couple of coats of floor
varnish on it I imagine it will be tough enough to withstand the traffic
it gets. Your opinions please :-)


I actually bought some sealant and was going to give it a go on a
small section but chickened out at the last minute. I wasn't sure it
would match or that I would be able to get it out the gap if I didn't
like it.


Silicone sealant isn't really suitable - you can't overpaint or sensibly
stain the stuff, and it's a pain if you smear the job, and a pain to get
off if you need to. Again, if you use a filler, use one a fraction
darker than the boards. I have used papier mache on boards, made with a
dollop of wallpaper paste in the mix. It's OK, and will sand/stain
easily. However, you are likely to get some cracking as the boards will
continue to move over the years.

As I don't want to stain the boards I am not sure papier mache is the
way forward. I have read about the idea else where but most people
seemed to say it was best suited for when you were painting the boards.

I think I might just have to learn to live with it.

"doozer" wrote in message
...
Chris Bacon wrote:
doozer wrote:

I like the idea of thin slivers of pine (the boards are pine) glued up
and then banged into the gaps. The trouble is I have only found a few
posts on this which were fairly vague.


You can do this, but only glue one side of the filling strip. Try to use
a slightly darker timber if you can.


Good point. Don't want to glue the floor solid :-)

I like the idea of using some dark hardwood but I suspect that would be
pig to get down into the gaps.

An idea just occurred to me though. What about balsa. It's fairly soft
and springy so expansion won't be such a problem and it's really easy to
work with. I think it would probably also take a stain right through the
wood as it's quite porous. Once it's got a couple of coats of floor
varnish on it I imagine it will be tough enough to withstand the traffic
it gets. Your opinions please :-)

Worth a go. If papier mache is OK then I expect balsa would be good too.
You're in new DIY territory!
Be aware there are different cuts of balsa, I tink that quarter-grain is a
harder cut, slightly deeper in
colour than other balsa cuts, and might be the type to go for. If you intend
setting it flush with the floorboards I imagine it will need to be able to
stand a little wear.

Andy.

"doozer" wrote in message
...

I think I might just have to learn to live with it.

I suggest that you put it on the bottom of the list of Things To Do. When
you've done everything else - if you ever do - you'll know if it's still a
priority.

Mary

Mary Fisher wrote:
"doozer" wrote in message
...

I think I might just have to learn to live with it.


I suggest that you put it on the bottom of the list of Things To Do. When
you've done everything else - if you ever do - you'll know if it's still a
priority.

Mary



I mentioned my latest idea to the SO again last night. I have been
"shown" that it is a bad idea :-)

I suppose I should really fill the hole in the ceiling first and then...

Graham

"doozer" wrote in message

I suppose I should really fill the hole in the ceiling first and then...

Quite :-)

Mary

Graham