Any thoughts on the best way of putting up 4" * 4" fence posts (in a
sheltered city garden).
1. Treat posts with creocote and bed in concrete, (approx 18" in
concrete?).
2. Use metposts, those square metal containers with a spike at one
end.
3. Other?

Also, is it better to use fence posts with slots in the side which the
fence panel slots into
OR
just ordinary posts and keep the fence panel in place with galvanised
nails?

On 3 Jun 2004 05:24:16 -0700, DIY Novice wrote:

1. Treat posts with creocote and bed in concrete, (approx 18" in
concrete?).

They'll still rot at the ground to air transistion. Even if you ensure
that the top of the concrete slopes away from the post.

2. Use metposts, those square metal containers with a spike at one
end.

These are reasonable but are a begger to drive in straight(*). How
many bits of ground do you know that don't have stones and/or builders
rubble for 18" or so down.

3. Other?

Also, is it better to use fence posts with slots in the side which
the fence panel slots into OR just ordinary posts and keep the fence
panel in place with galvanised nails?

I'd go for the latter. If it should get windy the former will tend to
come down as a whole the latter will just blow a panel out, in theory.

(*) Read: Virtually impossible.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

DIY Novice wrote:
Any thoughts on the best way of putting up 4" * 4" fence posts
(in a sheltered city garden).
1. Treat posts with creocote and bed in concrete, (approx 18" in
concrete?).
2. Use metposts, those square metal containers with a spike at one
end.
3. Other?

Metposts are not suitable for fences above 3' high IMO and
probably not even then. How high is your fence to be? What
sort of panel do you want?


Also, is it better to use fence posts with slots in the
side which the fence panel slots into
OR
just ordinary posts and keep the fence panel in place with
galvanised nails?

Concrete posts last and last. It has been known for for panels
to blow out of slotted posts. If the panel is not a good fit
it may be necessary to pack the panel with something to stop
it rattling in a breeze. Concrete posts, when new, look a bit
stark, and need painting with a bit of muck to encourage
naturalisation.

Timber posts are lighter and a bit cheaper. Soaking the bottom
in creosote (substitute) overnight (or as long as possible)
will help preserve them. You should slightly more than the
depth that is to be buried. IMO timber posts look nicer.

Whichever post you use make sure the hole you make for it is
not too big. A graft is a useful tool (like a spade but with
a very long thin blade), but you can make do with a ladies'
or border spade (as narrow as possible). As you dig deeper,
you may have to chop the soil at the bottom of the hole and
clear out by hand, sticking your arm down the hole! Depending
on the ground, you may not need concrete - in any case, the
concrete does not need to be very strong!


J.B.

In article ,
(DIY Novice) writes:
Any thoughts on the best way of putting up 4" * 4" fence posts (in a
sheltered city garden).
1. Treat posts with creocote and bed in concrete, (approx 18" in
concrete?).
2. Use metposts, those square metal containers with a spike at one
end.
3. Other?

I used metposts (actually the make was Fensock back then) and someone
else used concreted-in posts we both put in ~15 years ago. The metposts
are just as solid as they ever were, the concreted-in posts started
snapping off at around 10-12 years old. I suspect one important thing
is that I hammered in the metposts only as far as I could so the base
of the post was just clear of the damp ground. Also, I used the type
of metpost with a clamp done up by a nut and bolt, not the type which
just grip the post by having some metal fins in the post socket.

Also, is it better to use fence posts with slots in the side which the
fence panel slots into
OR
just ordinary posts and keep the fence panel in place with galvanised
nails?

I was building an aris rail fence. Pre-constructed panels won't last
that long, so pick some way which makes them easy to replace. Another
issue is a failing panel can become air-borne in a gale which is when
they normally fail, and do lots of damage if it lands on your car or
a neighbours. I can't offer suggestions one way or the other, but you
might want to bare these points in mind.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 3 Jun 2004 05:24:16 -0700, (DIY Novice) wrote:

Any thoughts on the best way of putting up 4" * 4" fence posts (in a
sheltered city garden).
1. Treat posts with creocote and bed in concrete, (approx 18" in
concrete?).
2. Use metposts, those square metal containers with a spike at one
end.
3. Other?

Hi,

Another one is to concrete some pipe into the ground, put the post in
and pack it with pea shingle.

If you concrete or bury wooden posts directly into the ground they
need to be treated all the way through, where the post has soaked in
preserver for as long as possible having been dried out all the way
through.

cheers,
Pete.

3. Other?

Actually use 1 and 2. Use a "concrete in" metpost embedded in
concrete. This way you get the stability and longetivity of concrete
and can easily replace the rotten post in 10-15 years time without
having to dig out the concrete.

Christian.

On 3 Jun 2004 05:24:16 -0700, (DIY Novice) wrote:

Any thoughts on the best way of putting up 4" * 4" fence posts (in a
sheltered city garden).
1. Treat posts with creocote and bed in concrete, (approx 18" in
concrete?).
2. Use metposts, those square metal containers with a spike at one
end.
3. Other?

Also, is it better to use fence posts with slots in the side which the
fence panel slots into
OR
just ordinary posts and keep the fence panel in place with galvanised
nails?

Slotted concrete posts, once they are in you can forget about them.
:-)

Mark S.