My battery charger seems to be faulty - cutting out as soon as it is
plugged in, with a flash coming regularly every couple of seconds
(from a fuse-like bulb located on top of the coil (cover off)).
It's a good enough charger when it's working, with boost/fast start as
well as trickle; it also has an automatic cut-out to prevent
over-charging. With the cover off, there does not seem to be any
obvious short.
Any ideas?

wb wrote:
My battery charger seems to be faulty - cutting out as soon as it is
plugged in, with a flash coming regularly every couple of seconds
(from a fuse-like bulb located on top of the coil (cover off)).
It's a good enough charger when it's working, with boost/fast start as
well as trickle; it also has an automatic cut-out to prevent
over-charging. With the cover off, there does not seem to be any
obvious short.
Any ideas?

Long distance diagnosis of this sort is impossible without greater
information ... What make/model is the charger? When was the last time you
used it and "knew" it to work? Why do you have the top off and what leads
you to think its faulty? Is not the battery screwed perhaps, leading to the
charger shutting down due to overcurrent?
--

Reply address is spamtrapped. Remove theobvious for valid e-mail address

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 01:40:12 -0000, "Paul King"
wrote:

wb wrote:
My battery charger seems to be faulty - cutting out as soon as it is
plugged in, with a flash coming regularly every couple of seconds
(from a fuse-like bulb located on top of the coil (cover off)).
It's a good enough charger when it's working, with boost/fast start as
well as trickle; it also has an automatic cut-out to prevent
over-charging. With the cover off, there does not seem to be any
obvious short.
Any ideas?

Long distance diagnosis of this sort is impossible without greater
information ... What make/model is the charger? When was the last time you
used it and "knew" it to work? Why do you have the top off and what leads
you to think its faulty? Is not the battery screwed perhaps, leading to the
charger shutting down due to overcurrent?


It's a "GUNSON's Rapid Start Heavy Duty Starting Charger suitable for
all 12v Lead/Acid batteries
Start: 47A RMS 30A DC @ 9v (10-15 secs)
Boost: 26A RMS 17A DC @ 12v (10 minutes)
Fast: 15A RMS 10A DC @ 12v (continuous)

Recommended minimum battery capacity: 30Ah.
Full overload protection,
Reverse polarity protection.
Thermal cut-out protection."

I last used it at Christmas to quick start my car battery; it worked
fine. My son put it on an old (12v) battery he had been using for an
electric fence for his chickens (does not need full 12 volts). He
noted it flashing a making a pulsing clicking sound. I then tried it
on a working forklift battery with the same result.
I took the top off to check for any obvious shorting or dampness. I
have never noticed it flashing prior to this. Needless to say, I
can't find the instructions anywhere.

wb wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 01:40:12 -0000, "Paul King"
wrote:

wb wrote:
My battery charger seems to be faulty - cutting out as soon as it
is
plugged in, with a flash coming regularly every couple of seconds
(from a fuse-like bulb located on top of the coil (cover off)).
It's a good enough charger when it's working, with boost/fast
start as
well as trickle; it also has an automatic cut-out to prevent
over-charging. With the cover off, there does not seem to be any
obvious short.
Any ideas?

Long distance diagnosis of this sort is impossible without greater
information ... What make/model is the charger? When was the last
time you
used it and "knew" it to work? Why do you have the top off and what
leads
you to think its faulty? Is not the battery screwed perhaps, leading
to the
charger shutting down due to overcurrent?


It's a "GUNSON's Rapid Start Heavy Duty Starting Charger suitable
for
all 12v Lead/Acid batteries
Start: 47A RMS 30A DC @ 9v (10-15 secs)
Boost: 26A RMS 17A DC @ 12v (10 minutes)
Fast: 15A RMS 10A DC @ 12v (continuous)

Recommended minimum battery capacity: 30Ah.
Full overload protection,
Reverse polarity protection.
Thermal cut-out protection."

I last used it at Christmas to quick start my car battery; it worked
fine. My son put it on an old (12v) battery he had been using for an
electric fence for his chickens (does not need full 12 volts). He
noted it flashing a making a pulsing clicking sound. I then tried it
on a working forklift battery with the same result.
I took the top off to check for any obvious shorting or dampness. I
have never noticed it flashing prior to this. Needless to say, I
can't find the instructions anywhere.

post the circuit diagram for us, get ready with the multimeter, and
we'll see if we can take you through it.

NT

I repaired one of these last month ( friend who lives on a barge ! )

Inside at the front is a printed circuit board with a large relay underneath
it, yes ? towards one corner ( same side as the start/boost switch towards
rear of pcb ) there is a small 10uF 25v electrolytic capacitor which will be
dried up and open circuit. This causes the relay to quickly pulse on/off
instead of coming on until the battery reaches a high enough voltage. Also
the green 12v bulb on the front panel which is lit all the time a battery is
connected had gone ( spare xmas tree bulb fitted fine ).

--
Pete Cross


wb wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 01:40:12 -0000, "Paul King"
wrote:

wb wrote:
My battery charger seems to be faulty - cutting out as soon as it
is
plugged in, with a flash coming regularly every couple of seconds
(from a fuse-like bulb located on top of the coil (cover off)).
It's a good enough charger when it's working, with boost/fast
start as
well as trickle; it also has an automatic cut-out to prevent
over-charging. With the cover off, there does not seem to be any
obvious short.
Any ideas?

Long distance diagnosis of this sort is impossible without greater
information ... What make/model is the charger? When was the last
time you
used it and "knew" it to work? Why do you have the top off and what
leads
you to think its faulty? Is not the battery screwed perhaps, leading
to the
charger shutting down due to overcurrent?


It's a "GUNSON's Rapid Start Heavy Duty Starting Charger suitable
for
all 12v Lead/Acid batteries
Start: 47A RMS 30A DC @ 9v (10-15 secs)
Boost: 26A RMS 17A DC @ 12v (10 minutes)
Fast: 15A RMS 10A DC @ 12v (continuous)

Recommended minimum battery capacity: 30Ah.
Full overload protection,
Reverse polarity protection.
Thermal cut-out protection."

I last used it at Christmas to quick start my car battery; it worked
fine. My son put it on an old (12v) battery he had been using for an
electric fence for his chickens (does not need full 12 volts). He
noted it flashing a making a pulsing clicking sound. I then tried it
on a working forklift battery with the same result.
I took the top off to check for any obvious shorting or dampness. I
have never noticed it flashing prior to this. Needless to say, I
can't find the instructions anywhere.

post the circuit diagram for us, get ready with the multimeter, and
we'll see if we can take you through it.

NT

On 15 Feb 2005 04:59:51 -0800, wrote:

wb wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 01:40:12 -0000, "Paul King"
wrote:

wb wrote:
My battery charger seems to be faulty - cutting out as soon as it
is
plugged in, with a flash coming regularly every couple of seconds
(from a fuse-like bulb located on top of the coil (cover off)).


post the circuit diagram for us, get ready with the multimeter, and
we'll see if we can take you through it.

NT


Sorry, I've no circuit diagram but I've posted some photos he

http://fr.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tod...bum?.dir=/c9de

Hope this helps.
I think my charger is an older one than Pete suggests

Regards

wb wrote:
On 15 Feb 2005 04:59:51 -0800, wrote:
wrote:

My battery charger seems to be faulty - cutting out as soon as
it
is
plugged in, with a flash coming regularly every couple of
seconds
(from a fuse-like bulb located on top of the coil (cover off)).


post the circuit diagram for us, get ready with the multimeter, and
we'll see if we can take you through it.


Sorry, I've no circuit diagram but I've posted some photos he

http://fr.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tod...bum?.dir=/c9de

Hope this helps.


Certainly brought a smile to my face

post the circuit diagram for us, get ready with the multimeter, and
we'll see if we can take you through it.


Sorry, I've no circuit diagram but I've posted some photos he

http://fr.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tod...bum?.dir=/c9de

Hope this helps.


Certainly brought a smile to my face

Glad to hear it NT, which is more than can be said for my son's
chickens - they got a visit from the fox last night - left nothing but
a few feathers!
I'd be grateful for any suggestions (about the charger, not the fox!).
I have the technology (ie multimeter) but not the knowledge
(self-evident!).

Regards

wb wrote:

post the circuit diagram for us, get ready with the multimeter,
and
we'll see if we can take you through it.


Sorry, I've no circuit diagram but I've posted some photos he

http://fr.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tod...bum?.dir=/c9de

Hope this helps.


Certainly brought a smile to my face

I'd be grateful for any suggestions (about the charger, not the
fox!).
I have the technology (ie multimeter) but not the knowledge
(self-evident!).


Well I made it, but I guess I wasnt clear enough.
1. your charger is faulty
2. the only way youre giong to fix it is with a circuit diagram and
some electronics expertise.
3. You can borrow the latter off the net, but you'll have to come up
with the circuit diagram.

Otherwise youre outta luck.

NT

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 13:47:18 +0000, wb
wrote:



post the circuit diagram for us, get ready with the multimeter, and
we'll see if we can take you through it.


Sorry, I've no circuit diagram but I've posted some photos he

http://fr.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tod...bum?.dir=/c9de

Hope this helps.


Certainly brought a smile to my face

Glad to hear it NT, which is more than can be said for my son's
chickens - they got a visit from the fox last night - left nothing but
a few feathers!
I'd be grateful for any suggestions (about the charger, not the fox!).
I have the technology (ie multimeter) but not the knowledge
(self-evident!).

Regards

Hi,

Does it cut out even when no battery is connected?

If so switch off and try disconnecting one of the wires from the
secondary (non mains) side of the transformer that go to the black box
on the heatsink.

Then does it still cut out?

If so it's likely to be a short in the transformer which is probably
not worth replacing, if not it's likely to be the black box (bridge
rectifier) on the heatsink which should be fairly cheap and easy to
replace.

cheers,
Pete.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 14:23:52 +0000, Pete C
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 13:47:18 +0000, wb
wrote:

Sorry, I've no circuit diagram but I've posted some photos he

http://fr.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tod...bum?.dir=/c9de


snip


Does it cut out even when no battery is connected?

If so switch off and try disconnecting one of the wires from the
secondary (non mains) side of the transformer that go to the black box
on the heatsink.

Then does it still cut out?

If so it's likely to be a short in the transformer which is probably
not worth replacing, if not it's likely to be the black box (bridge
rectifier) on the heatsink which should be fairly cheap and easy to
replace.

cheers,
Pete.


Thanks Pete,

It does cut out when no battery is connected but doesn't when I
disconnect either wire going to the black box from the transformer.
So, hopefully, a new bridge rectifier will solve my problem. Is this
the sort of thing I can get at Maplins - I've had a look but none has
the same markings as mine: AC BR354 A 38
I'd be grateful for any pointers on this one. Many thanks for your
help thus far.

Regards,
Brian

wb wrote:

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 14:23:52 +0000, Pete C
wrote:


On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 13:47:18 +0000, wb
wrote:

Sorry, I've no circuit diagram but I've posted some photos he

http://fr.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tod...bum?.dir=/c9de



snip


Does it cut out even when no battery is connected?

If so switch off and try disconnecting one of the wires from the
secondary (non mains) side of the transformer that go to the black box
on the heatsink.

Then does it still cut out?

If so it's likely to be a short in the transformer which is probably
not worth replacing, if not it's likely to be the black box (bridge
rectifier) on the heatsink which should be fairly cheap and easy to
replace.

cheers,
Pete.



Thanks Pete,

It does cut out when no battery is connected but doesn't when I
disconnect either wire going to the black box from the transformer.
So, hopefully, a new bridge rectifier will solve my problem. Is this
the sort of thing I can get at Maplins - I've had a look but none has
the same markings as mine: AC BR354 A 38
I'd be grateful for any pointers on this one. Many thanks for your
help thus far.

Regards,
Brian

Any 10A 40V or better bridge rectifier will work.

Often found on e-bay.

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 14:37:32 +0000, wb
wrote:

It does cut out when no battery is connected but doesn't when I
disconnect either wire going to the black box from the transformer.
So, hopefully, a new bridge rectifier will solve my problem. Is this
the sort of thing I can get at Maplins - I've had a look but none has
the same markings as mine: AC BR354 A 38
I'd be grateful for any pointers on this one. Many thanks for your
help thus far.

Hi,

Looks like a 'BR354' is a 35A 400V spec:

http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/RECTRON/BR354.html

Maplins do a 'KBPC3504' which has the same spec, for £1.29:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=19088&TabID=2&WorldID=&doy=21 m2

Looking at a data sheet it's the same size with the same type
terminals too:

http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/SEMTECH/KBPC3504.html

When fitting the new one be sure the AC terminals marked '~' are
connected to either lead from the transformer, and the DC terminals
'+'/'-' are connected to the appropriate outputs of the charger.

If you take the old one off and measure the resistance each way across
adjacent terminals, you should find that 3 of the 4 diodes only show
resistance one way, but one doesn't show resistance either way which
proves it's defective.

cheers,
Pete.

Looks like a 'BR354' is a 35A 400V spec:

http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/RECTRON/BR354.html

Maplins do a 'KBPC3504' which has the same spec, for £1.29:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=19088&TabID=2&WorldID=&doy=21 m2

Looking at a data sheet it's the same size with the same type
terminals too:

http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/SEMTECH/KBPC3504.html

When fitting the new one be sure the AC terminals marked '~' are
connected to either lead from the transformer, and the DC terminals
'+'/'-' are connected to the appropriate outputs of the charger.

If you take the old one off and measure the resistance each way across
adjacent terminals, you should find that 3 of the 4 diodes only show
resistance one way, but one doesn't show resistance either way which
proves it's defective.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete,

Spot on in every respect. You're a real Sherlock!
Many thanks and best wishes,

Brian

replying to wb, john O. wrote:
I have same problem. there is a short cct across croc clips which shorts the
battery out.
instantly the leads current is enough to operate the bi-metalic cut-out. which
then flips in and out.
Think the output rectifier is fauly, (only half wave?) but can find no diagram
to replace it.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...er-153424-.htm

On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:
replying to wb, john O. wrote:
I have same problem. there is a short cct across croc clips which shorts the
battery out.
instantly the leads current is enough to operate the bi-metalic cut-out. which
then flips in and out.
Think the output rectifier is fauly, (only half wave?) but can find no diagram
to replace it.

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the circuit board.


NT

On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the circuit board.


original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

I think he might have bought a new one by now.

Peter Parry wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the circuit
board.


original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

I think he might have bought a new one by now.

How do you get the date?

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 20:36:26 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

Peter Parry wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the circuit
board.


original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

I think he might have bought a new one by now.

How do you get the date?

Try using a computer made in the current century. If you can afford one.

--
The easiest way to find something lost around the house is to buy a replacement.

On Friday, 8 July 2016 18:50:11 UTC+1, Peter Parry wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the circuit board.


original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

I think he might have bought a new one by now.

He posted it about 2 hours ago.


NT

wrote:

Peter Parry wrote:

original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

He posted it about 2 hours ago.

John O might have, but wb didn't

http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=146800714800

James Wilkinson wrote:
On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 20:36:26 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire
wrote:
Peter Parry wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the circuit
board.


original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

I think he might have bought a new one by now.

How do you get the date?

Try using a computer made in the current century. If you can afford
one.

Some very bad things are coming your way Hucker.

On Friday, 8 July 2016 20:47:19 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
Peter Parry wrote:

original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

He posted it about 2 hours ago.

John O might have, but wb didn't

precisely, john posted 4 hours ago. Yawn.

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 22:16:35 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

James Wilkinson wrote:
On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 20:36:26 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire
wrote:
Peter Parry wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the circuit
board.


original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

I think he might have bought a new one by now.

How do you get the date?

Try using a computer made in the current century. If you can afford
one.

Some very bad things are coming your way Hucker.

Your wife?

--
Interesting fact number 184:
In ancient China, people committed suicide by eating a pound of salt.

On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 20:36:26 +0100, "Mr Pounder Esquire"
wrote:


How do you get the date?

From

http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...er-153424-.htm

On 08/07/2016 20:36, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:


How do you get the date?



Just follow the homeownerhub.con link in the original post and it shows
the date when question was posted. Most of us are using Usenet servers
and a newsreader client and therefore only see the current conversations.

Users of homeownerhub don't seem realise that many of the questions they
are answering are decades old and with the complete lack of quoting from
the original question their answers become somewhat cryptic when viewed
in our environment.

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 19:03:18 +0100, pamela wrote:

On 22:53 8 Jul 2016, James Wilkinson wrote:

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 22:16:35 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire
wrote:

James Wilkinson wrote:
On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 20:36:26 +0100, Mr Pounder Esquire
wrote:
Peter Parry wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 10:36:37 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Friday, 8 July 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, john O. wrote:

Try a functional user interface:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips

A circuit diagram would help, or even a clear pic of the
circuit board.


original posted on February 15, 2005, 12:55 am

I think he might have bought a new one by now.

How do you get the date?

Try using a computer made in the current century. If you can
afford one.

Some very bad things are coming your way Hucker.

Your wife?

Wow.

Well if he's going to be vague....

--
Never use a long word when a diminutive one will do.