Sorry for another thread but I'm confused on which way the router goes when
routing a rebate in a door.

The width of the rebate (the depth will be half the thickness of the door)
must be 12.7mm for the rebate lock.

Do I position the router on the flat of the door or on it's edge. The way
I'm thinking it must be on the edge.

The specs of the rebater are 30mm diameter, 11.1mm radius (outside of
bearing) with the thickness/depth being 12.7mm.

Any ideas welcomed?

mp wrote:

Sorry for another thread but I'm confused on which way the router goes when
routing a rebate in a door.

The width of the rebate (the depth will be half the thickness of the door)
must be 12.7mm for the rebate lock.


So you want the finished edge of the door to look like:

_______________
|__
__________________|


Do I position the router on the flat of the door or on it's edge. The way
I'm thinking it must be on the edge.

You can do either, it will depend a little on the type of bit you are
going to use, and how you want to guide the router. Working with the
router against the flat of the door however will tend to give a more
stable platform to balance on.

The specs of the rebater are 30mm diameter, 11.1mm radius (outside of
bearing) with the thickness/depth being 12.7mm.

Any ideas welcomed?

A bearing guided cutter will ultimately follow a straight edge and guide
the router. This is simpler to use than using a separate guide rail
usually.

So with the router above, base pointing toward the flat face of the
door, and a bearing guided rebate bit, you set the depth of the bit
using the plunge mechanism on the router and lock it in position:

|
__________________ |
|#######
__________________| ===


You take a freehand pass, where the bearing will not actually touch the
door, but you will start yo remove material from above it.

|
_________________ |
|#######
__________________| ===


Then keep taking further passes, until on the final pass, the bearing is
in contact with the lower thickness of the door, and produces a dead
straight cut on the top surface (as long as the edge of the door is also
dead straight!)

|
________________ |
|#######
__________________|===


If your rebate cutter will also cut on the under surface (i.e. the side
where the bearing is) then you could approach from the other direction,
by doing a shallow full width cut and then plunging deeper into the work
on each pass.

--
Cheers,

John.

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