Advice please for making an MFI flat-plack wardrobe more stable?

The pine wardrobe was previously in my old house; I had to dismantle it
to get it out of the door when I moved out. The wardrobe has been in
storage for 2 years and last night I tried to rebuild it.

I think a couple of the panels have warped slightly. The wardrobe
"wobbles" when you walk past it!

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Bruce

wrote in message
oups.com...
Advice please for making an MFI flat-plack wardrobe more stable?

The pine wardrobe was previously in my old house; I had to dismantle it
to get it out of the door when I moved out. The wardrobe has been in
storage for 2 years and last night I tried to rebuild it.

I think a couple of the panels have warped slightly. The wardrobe
"wobbles" when you walk past it!

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Bruce


Most of the large DIY outlets, and small local hardware stores, sell flat
metal corner plates that screw flat against the corners on the back of the
wardrobe.

Like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...13954&ts=54664

In message .com,
writes
Advice please for making an MFI flat-plack wardrobe more stable?

The pine wardrobe was previously in my old house; I had to dismantle it
to get it out of the door when I moved out. The wardrobe has been in
storage for 2 years and last night I tried to rebuild it.

I think a couple of the panels have warped slightly. The wardrobe
"wobbles" when you walk past it!

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

I'd probably use some ply wood triangles fixed on the back across the
corners
--
Chris French, Leeds

wrote:

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

It will probably get most of it's rigidigy from the back panel, fix that
back first and see how you get on ...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Advice please for making an MFI flat-plack wardrobe more stable?

The pine wardrobe was previously in my old house; I had to dismantle it
to get it out of the door when I moved out. The wardrobe has been in
storage for 2 years and last night I tried to rebuild it.

I think a couple of the panels have warped slightly. The wardrobe
"wobbles" when you walk past it!

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Bruce


Bruce,
You have answered your own question i.e. It will lessen this wobble I put
the back on. For a structure to be stiff(strong )
It has to have a odd number of struts(sides) you have top sides (4) and a
back (1) add them to gether = 5

If you try and move it with out fixing the back the joints will be damaged
( possibly are now) so put the back on and then if necessary use angle
brackets to strengthen the corners.
MikeS

Bruce,
You have answered your own question i.e. It will lessen this wobble I
put
the back on. For a structure to be stiff(strong )
It has to have a odd number of struts(sides) you have top sides (4)
and a
back (1) add them to gether = 5



Right you are, Mike. I'll nail the back panel on first and see how
stable it looks.

Bruce

wrote in message

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

It probably won't hurt, but you'll find much of the rigidity comes from the
back panel.

Jc.

On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 08:59:35 UTC, wrote:

The pine wardrobe was previously in my old house; I had to dismantle it
to get it out of the door when I moved out. The wardrobe has been in
storage for 2 years and last night I tried to rebuild it.

I think a couple of the panels have warped slightly. The wardrobe
"wobbles" when you walk past it!

We had this problem. The removal men said that a lot of flat pack stuff
can't really support its own weight, and has problems after being moved,
even without the time lag you state.

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

It depends on the panels that are warped. I used some bolt together
corner joints to pull bits together (in one case, I fixed a shelf in
place, instead of resting it on the usual little pegs, to provide some
cross bracing and to pull a slightly bowed side back into line).
--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

Josey wrote:
wrote in message

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

It probably won't hurt, but you'll find much of the rigidity comes
from the back panel.

Jc.

I found that practically ALL the rigidity came from the back panel with my
MFI pine wardobe. If the back wasn't in, I could push one corner and wobble
it a lot. If pushed hard, I could probably push it flat, splitting the wood
where the metal lock pins screw in. When the back is in, no wobble at all
and far stronger (can lean up it from the side etc without risk of
collapse!).

David

I found that practically ALL the rigidity came from the back panel
with my
MFI pine wardobe. If the back wasn't in, I could push one corner and
wobble
it a lot. If pushed hard, I could probably push it flat, splitting
the wood
where the metal lock pins screw in. When the back is in, no wobble
at all
and far stronger (can lean up it from the side etc without risk of
collapse!).

David

Just one point. I have yet to hang the front doors on the wardrobe.
Do you suggest I do this *after* nailing on the back panel?

I don't have the original assembly instructions, but seem to recall
that the back went on last when I originally assembled it.

Bruce

Easy Peazey! Get two simple angle brackets and fix the two top rear corners
to the wall behind. The bugger can't wobble then!

wrote in message
oups.com...
Advice please for making an MFI flat-plack wardrobe more stable?

The pine wardrobe was previously in my old house; I had to dismantle it
to get it out of the door when I moved out. The wardrobe has been in
storage for 2 years and last night I tried to rebuild it.

I think a couple of the panels have warped slightly. The wardrobe
"wobbles" when you walk past it!

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Bruce

On 17 Jan 2005 00:59:35 -0800, wrote:

Advice please for making an MFI flat-plack wardrobe more stable?

The pine wardrobe was previously in my old house; I had to dismantle it
to get it out of the door when I moved out. The wardrobe has been in
storage for 2 years and last night I tried to rebuild it.

I think a couple of the panels have warped slightly. The wardrobe
"wobbles" when you walk past it!

Obviously this "wobble" will lessen when I fix in the back panel and
put clothes in the 'robe. But I also thought about fixing 4 angle
brackets at the base corners.

Any ideas?

The back panel basicall holds the whole thing together. Secure it and
your problems will (should) go away.

sPoNiX

Easy Peazey! Get two simple angle brackets and fix the two top rear
corners
to the wall behind. The bugger can't wobble then!

Exactly! Bolt the bugger to the wall. Done it many a time. Get it
square, fix to wall, then put the doors on - you only have to adjust
the hinges once!

OP here.
Yes, fitting the back panel does stiffen the whole thing up.

Now another question: What's the best approach for fitting the door
hinges? They are typical MFI hinges where there are two screws: you
slide the hinge over one, tighten/loosen it and then tighten/loosen the
other. But in what combination I can't really tell.

I've fastened the doors on, but they don't close smoothly. What's the
secret?

Bruce

They are typical MFI hinges where there are two screws: you
slide the hinge over one, tighten/loosen it and then tighten/loosen the
other. But in what combination I can't really tell.


I've fastened the doors on, but they don't close smoothly. What's the
secret?

Don't even look at the hinges until the whole thing is square. When
and only when it is square can you adjust hinges properly.

The bigger screw is the locking screw. Loosen that and the smaller
screw adjusted in or out changes the alignment of the doors. If the gap
between them is too big, adjust the screws both sides by turning them
out (undoing them) and vica versa.

Sometimes the hinges have up & down adjustment on the two screws that
hold the hinge plate to the carcass.

Finally the bigger screw is in a slot. This allows adjustment forward
& back to get the doors flush.
But don't bother unless the whole thing is square!

Dave

Dave wrote:
They are typical MFI hinges where there are two screws: you
slide the hinge over one, tighten/loosen it and then tighten/loosen
the
other. But in what combination I can't really tell.



The bigger screw is the locking screw. Loosen that and the smaller
screw adjusted in or out changes the alignment of the doors. If the
gap
between them is too big, adjust the screws both sides by turning them
out (undoing them) and vica versa.

Sometimes the hinges have up & down adjustment on the two screws that
hold the hinge plate to the carcass.

Finally the bigger screw is in a slot. This allows adjustment
forward
& back to get the doors flush.
But don't bother unless the whole thing is square!

Dave

Thanks, Dave. Doesn't sound exactly like mine -- mine has a largeish
locking screw + a smaller screw which the hinge slides over. I guess
the best process is to slide the hinge over the smaller screw, tighten
that one when happy, then tighten the locking screw.
Anyone seen any MFI assembly instructions on the web?

Thanks
Bruce

Anyone seen any MFI assembly instructions on the web?

No, but I've probably got some in the garage, I can scan the relevant
bit and email.
--
Chris French, Leeds