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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Cutting up old steel water-tank
I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic
which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door - they were presumably installed when there was a different setup. In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is? Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. -- Timothy Murphy e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366 s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland |
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"Timothy Murphy" wrote in message ... I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door - they were presumably installed when there was a different setup. In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is? Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. A small angle grinder with a metal cutting disk is the easiest way, but remember to wear ear protection and a dust mask. |
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BigWallop wrote:
A small angle grinder with a metal cutting disk is the easiest way, but remember to wear ear protection and a dust mask. That will do it, and remember keep away from anything too flamable since it will create more than a few sparks. (a reciprocating saw with hacksaw blade will also be quite quick) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#4
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"Timothy Murphy" wrote in message ... I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door - they were presumably installed when there was a different setup. In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is? Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. -- Timothy Murphy Beg, borrow, rent or even buy a Sabre Saw like this: http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/HITCR13VC.html They're "the dog's........." D |
#5
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 05:29:55 +0000, John Rumm
wrote: BigWallop wrote: A small angle grinder with a metal cutting disk is the easiest way, but remember to wear ear protection and a dust mask. That will do it, and remember keep away from anything too flamable since it will create more than a few sparks. (a reciprocating saw with hacksaw blade will also be quite quick) Jigsaw with appropriate blade Rick |
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 09:46:23 -0000, "Vortex"
strung together this: Beg, borrow, rent or even buy a Sabre Saw like this: http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/HITCR13VC.html They're "the dog's........." Yep, sabre saw would be the best option in a confined space such as a loft. You could use a grinder but I'd feel much more safe with a sabre saw. -- SJW Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject |
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Timothy Murphy wrote:
I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door To save fatigue from too much sawing, try a cutting charge of RDX :-) |
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 03:40:26 +0000, Timothy Murphy said:
I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door - they were presumably installed when there was a different setup. In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is? Been there, done that, got the spark holes in the T-shirt. Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. http://www.karabiner.org/newsletters.../jul1998mr.htm 10 May. Choose a day when the sun isn't shining. Don't do it alone. If you are using an angle grinder, have a large supply of spare disks. Use eye and *ear* protection. A 9" grinder is more unwieldy, but you will go through the disks less quickly. -- Alan J. Wylie http://www.wylie.me.uk/ "Perfection [in design] is achieved not when there is nothing left to add, but rather when there is nothing left to take away." -- Antoine de Saint-Exupery |
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 03:40:26 +0000, Timothy Murphy
wrote: Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. A lot depends upon the working environment. If it is an old and dusty attic with no floor boards I'd use a saw. The speed with which a fire can develop from angle grinder sparks on old dust impregnated fibreglass insulation is frightening. With goggles and ear defenders on and clutching an angle grinder trying to escape by balancing on rafters while your nether regions are roasting can be an interesting exercise. If you must use an angle grinder make sure you have laid out a water hose to the attic, connected it and have someone to hand to turn the water on instantly. Do not rely upon a dry powder fire extinguisher - it will merely knock the flames back for a few seconds while scattering burning debris around the place. -- Peter Parry. http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/ |
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 10:24:01 +0000, Lurch wrote:
On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 09:46:23 -0000, "Vortex" strung together this: Beg, borrow, rent or even buy a Sabre Saw like this: http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/HITCR13VC.html They're "the dog's........." Yep, sabre saw would be the best option in a confined space such as a loft. You could use a grinder but I'd feel much more safe with a sabre saw. This task has become something of a speciality as most of the iron tanks in the terrace where I live have expired in the last 10 years, and muggins gained a reputation for doing them without tearing the building apart. The sabre saw is very noisy and you will be surprised at how many baldes it will break and how quickly they can be come blunt. (keep the speed down and use spray grease). In practice I think you'll find that the sabre saw works really well on the single thickness parts but can be quite a challenge on the corners. If you have 360 degree access to the outside then I think you'll find the job much easier then when I try to get them out of the cupboard that was built around the tank afterwards. The angle grinder will help you get a start for the sabre saw and may be easier in places. Take care not to ignite the house. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#11
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 23:58:05 +0000, Ed Sirett
strung together this: The angle grinder will help you get a start for the sabre saw and may be easier in places. Take care not to ignite the house. If the angle grinder is used then go for the thin stainless steel cutting blades, they're a lot easier for cutting in these circumstances. -- SJW Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject |
#12
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Timothy Murphy wrote: I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door - they were presumably installed when there was a different setup. In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is? Any advice or suggestions gratefully received. -- Timothy Murphy e-mail (80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366 s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland I know it's been suggested a couple of times but I really wouldn't use an angle grinder inside a loft. That's a recipe for burning the house down. Best tool for cutting up old tanks safely is a Sawzall. Have a look on Google to see the type of thing I mean. Use a fine toothed blade, slow speed, lots of pressure and keep the cut lubricated with WD40 or oil. High speed will burn the blades out much quicker. Not the sort of thing you want to be buying for a one off job but if you can find one for hire it shouldn't cost too much. Of course you could probably get it done with a hacksaw if you don't mind a bit of hard work. You can only cut down a few inches at a time but if you keep bending the tabs out to the side and slcing them off you can cut the whole tank to pieces eventually. Chances are you won't need to cut too much off before it'll fit through the hatch. |
#13
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I think everyone is missing something here. You've all given great advice
about the fire risk of cutting metal with an angle grinder, but the tank is open topped and a small angle grinder placed inside the empty tank will shoot sparks into the tank, and not all the around the outside on to the loft floor. It's also a lot easier to follow the cut when the tank is cut from inside out. Not shooting you all down in flames here (pardon the pun), but there are safe ways to use tools if you think about the situation first. Casualty Departments all over the country are full of people who didn't think for five minutes before starting a job. I'm sure all your advice is well heeded, but the sparks from the blade of an angle grinder don't have to fly everywhere if trapped inside the tank. |
#14
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On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 13:26:59 GMT, "BigWallop"
strung together this: I think everyone is missing something here. You've all given great advice about the fire risk of cutting metal with an angle grinder, but the tank is open topped and a small angle grinder placed inside the empty tank will shoot sparks into the tank, and not all the around the outside on to the loft floor. You're talking ******** again I'm afraid. Sparks fly everywhere, out of the top, out of the big hole you've just cut etc... Remember, it only takes one spark to start a fire so your way is no less foolproof than any other way. -- SJW Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject |
#15
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"Timothy Murphy" wrote in message
... I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door - they were presumably installed when there was a different setup. In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is? I once had to do this after a surveyor condemed a tank in a house I was trying to sell. My main conclusion after doing this was that there was not much wrong with the old tank! But if the purchaser wanted a plastic tank they could have one! I probably just used a hack saw on the corners and a Stanley with a hack saw blade once the cut got to deep for the hack saw. The tanks was quite thin steel so it was not difficult to cut (as I recall) -- Michael Chare |
#16
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In article ,
Michael Chare wrote: I probably just used a hack saw on the corners and a Stanley with a hack saw blade once the cut got to deep for the hack saw. The tanks was quite thin steel so it was not difficult to cut (as I recall) Wonder if it's thin enough to use a nibbler? (Monodek etc) At least no danger of sparks with those, and less effort than a hacksaw on unsupported thin sheet. -- *If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#17
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On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 01:29:47 +0000, Lurch wrote:
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 23:58:05 +0000, Ed Sirett strung together this: The angle grinder will help you get a start for the sabre saw and may be easier in places. Take care not to ignite the house. If the angle grinder is used then go for the thin stainless steel cutting blades, they're a lot easier for cutting in these circumstances. Last _much_ longer and make much less 'flame'. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#18
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On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 17:58:25 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Michael Chare wrote: I probably just used a hack saw on the corners and a Stanley with a hack saw blade once the cut got to deep for the hack saw. The tanks was quite thin steel so it was not difficult to cut (as I recall) Wonder if it's thin enough to use a nibbler? (Monodek etc) At least no danger of sparks with those, and less effort than a hacksaw on unsupported thin sheet. They're about 3mm thick and double that at the corners. Since I've never used a nibbler I can't say how it would get on but if it could cut up a tank it would be a fearsome tool in the wrong hands! -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
#19
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In article .uk,
Ed Sirett wrote: Wonder if it's thin enough to use a nibbler? (Monodek etc) At least no danger of sparks with those, and less effort than a hacksaw on unsupported thin sheet. They're about 3mm thick and double that at the corners. Since I've never used a nibbler I can't say how it would get on but if it could cut up a tank it would be a fearsome tool in the wrong hands! Ah - that thick, IIRC, about 18 gauge is the limit in steel. They're very useful in that they cut from one side only - requiring about 1/2" clearance behind, and cause less distortion than tinsnips etc. -- *Age is a very high price to pay for maturity. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#20
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"BigWallop" wrote in message ... " A small angle grinder with a metal cutting disk is the easiest way, but remember to wear ear protection and a dust mask. More importantly - eye protection - I would suggest. Dust and noise are only secondary dangers. Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
#21
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 03:40:26 +0000, Timothy Murphy
wrote: In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is? Plasma cutter. Excellent way to do it if you have one, might even be worth hiring one. The spark hazard is no worse than an angle grinder, although I'd wear a mask against the zinc fume. -- Smert' spamionam |
#22
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 23:58:05 +0000, Ed Sirett
wrote: This task has become something of a speciality as most of the iron tanks in the terrace where I live have expired in the last 10 years, Iron or steel ? I've had lead tanks, I've had slate tanks, but I've never seen an iron one. Cast iron or sheet ? If it's rolled sheet wrought iron, please get in touch - I'm buying ! |
#23
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On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 16:28:21 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 23:58:05 +0000, Ed Sirett wrote: This task has become something of a speciality as most of the iron tanks in the terrace where I live have expired in the last 10 years, Iron or steel ? I've had lead tanks, I've had slate tanks, but I've never seen an iron one. Cast iron or sheet ? If it's rolled sheet wrought iron, please get in touch - I'm buying ! Sorry, I really meant steel or more precisely 1/8" galvanised mild steel sheet, riveted together. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
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