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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Heat loss calculator for radiator requirements - where to find one?
I've tried a few but they seem to give wildly differing numbers (and one
gave the same answer regardless of the inputs!), can anyone suggest one that works? -- Dave S (The return email address is a dummy) |
#2
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On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 22:01:09 +0000, Dave
wrote: I've tried a few but they seem to give wildly differing numbers (and one gave the same answer regardless of the inputs!), can anyone suggest one that works? The Myson and Barlo ones are OK. The Myson one is not on their site at present, but I have a copy and will happily send it to you if you drop me a mail. One of the problems with some of these programs is that they have incorrect U values for given object types - so it's always as well to check the numbers against the list in the Building Regulations Approved Documents. The other factors that can introduce error are that some programs do not account for floor heat loss correctly. The reasonably correct approach is based on the combination of outside wall lengths and floor area and there are correction tables of modified U values to cope with it. Computer programs should do all of this as well, but if not, there will be an error. Some programs have correction factors for whether the heating is on all day, exposure of the house and so on. The defaults may not be sensible. Finally, you do need to make sure that heat loss by air exchange is reasonably accounted for. This is a big chunk of heat requirement in most properties. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#3
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Andy Hall wrote:
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 22:01:09 +0000, Dave wrote: I've tried a few but they seem to give wildly differing numbers (and one gave the same answer regardless of the inputs!), can anyone suggest one that works? The Myson and Barlo ones are OK. The Myson one is not on their site at present, but I have a copy and will happily send it to you if you drop me a mail. One of the problems with some of these programs is that they have incorrect U values for given object types - so it's always as well to check the numbers against the list in the Building Regulations Approved Documents. The other factors that can introduce error are that some programs do not account for floor heat loss correctly. The reasonably correct approach is based on the combination of outside wall lengths and floor area and there are correction tables of modified U values to cope with it. Computer programs should do all of this as well, but if not, there will be an error. Some programs have correction factors for whether the heating is on all day, exposure of the house and so on. The defaults may not be sensible. Finally, you do need to make sure that heat loss by air exchange is reasonably accounted for. This is a big chunk of heat requirement in most properties. Thanks Andy, email sent. Do you happen to know whether the U values in the myson software are correct? Estimating air exchange is tough, any suggestions on how to approach it? -- Dave S (The return email address is a dummy) |
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On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 23:20:20 +0000, Dave
wrote: Thanks Andy, email sent. On its way. Do you happen to know whether the U values in the myson software are correct? The ones that I used were, but I didn't check all of them and had to add a couple. Estimating air exchange is tough, any suggestions on how to approach it? I used the standard numbers given in the program, which are an industry standard. If the house is exposed or the windows are older sash types or you have gaps in the floorboards then it would be an idea to up the numbers a bit. You can also look at the various correction factors and adjust to your pattern of use and location. You don't need to include the typical 3kW or so for the hot water. This is used for older cylinders with basic coil. Are you going for a condensing boiler? If so, you can design the radiator provision around a 70 degree flow and 50 return. This will keep the boiler at the efficient end of the scale and also give you plenty of head room for very cold weather. It does imply larger radiators of course. Don't forget the correction factors from the manufacturer data tables. These are normally 0.89 for 82/70 degree operation and 0.6 for 70/50. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#5
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Andy Hall wrote:
On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 23:20:20 +0000, Dave wrote: .... snipped Are you going for a condensing boiler? If so, you can design the radiator provision around a 70 degree flow and 50 return. This will keep the boiler at the efficient end of the scale and also give you plenty of head room for very cold weather. It does imply larger radiators of course. Don't forget the correction factors from the manufacturer data tables. These are normally 0.89 for 82/70 degree operation and 0.6 for 70/50. I can size the rads for a 70 flow but can't see how to achieve a 50 return. If the house is heating from cold (and all TRVs are open) the return will presumably be much cooler than when the house is up to temperature and all/most TRVs shut; is it really possible to design for a specific return temperature? -- Dave S (The return email address is a dummy) |
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On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 08:55:27 +0000, Dave
wrote: Andy Hall wrote: On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 23:20:20 +0000, Dave wrote: ... snipped Are you going for a condensing boiler? If so, you can design the radiator provision around a 70 degree flow and 50 return. This will keep the boiler at the efficient end of the scale and also give you plenty of head room for very cold weather. It does imply larger radiators of course. Don't forget the correction factors from the manufacturer data tables. These are normally 0.89 for 82/70 degree operation and 0.6 for 70/50. I can size the rads for a 70 flow but can't see how to achieve a 50 return. If the house is heating from cold (and all TRVs are open) the return will presumably be much cooler than when the house is up to temperature and all/most TRVs shut; is it really possible to design for a specific return temperature? OK. The radiator calculation is to first of all determine heat loss using -3 degrees as the outside temperature (considered worst case) inlcuding air change losses etc. and correction factors for exposed position, intermittent use (needs more during start up) etc. You will have figures in watts for each room. If you work on 70 degrees flow and 50 return, then the mean water temperature is going to be 60 degrees. Let's say you want 20 degrees in the room. The Mean Water To Air temperature will be 40 degrees. Most radiator manufacturers give a correction factor of 0.6 for that. You could be a purist and use slightly different numbers for temperatures in different rooms but it probably isn't worth it. From this, you pick your radiators. So for example, if you needed 1200W in a room, then you would need a 2kW nominal radiator. A condensing boiler, by virtue mainly of its heat exchanger design, can manage a dT of 20, sometimes as much as 25 degrees. If everything were precisely matched (i.e. radiators and boiler exactly matching heat loss), then the boiler would reach a steady state of 70/50 degrees and would be operating in the condensing range as well. In practice, as you say, you won't have these levels of heat loss because the system will have a design margin and weather will typically be warmer. Under those circumstances, when the system is heating from cold, it will go flat out to begin with. Some boilers will allow you to set the maximum flow temperature and you could set that to 70 degrees and keep the return under 50. This is good from the efficiency point of view (lower return temperatures, especially below the condensing dew point are more efficient) or you could set the control at 82 degrees and the system will heat more quickly. With a modulating boiler, the burn rate will reduce accordingly. If the heat demand reduces (e.g. because TRVs start to close, then the boiler detects the load reduction by monitoring of the temperatures and again reduces burn rate. The point of designing around 70/50 is that you can operate the boiler in a more efficient range. Efficiencies of condensing boilers tend to be better than many non condensing types anyway since the heat exchanger is usually larger. The efficiency increases as return temperature reduces, but in the condensing range the *rate* of improvement of efficiency increases with falling temperature. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#7
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The message
from Dave contains these words: I can size the rads for a 70 flow but can't see how to achieve a 50 return. If the house is heating from cold (and all TRVs are open) the return will presumably be much cooler than when the house is up to temperature and all/most TRVs shut; is it really possible to design for a specific return temperature? You are looking at this from the wrong perspective. The 70 flow, 50 return is an element you use in calculating the required radiator sizes. In operation you won't initially get the 70 flow as the boiler has to heat the return from cold but you should get (ignoring any losses in the pipework) a 20 degree rise across the boiler. If the rise is too low decrease the pump speed, too large increase the pump speed. Unless you have a continuously variable pump (do such animals exist?) you are not going to get this exact and as the TRVs start closing off the circuit resistance will increase mimicking the effect of decreasing the pump speed so I think you should aim low* if you have a condensing boiler and want to benefit by recovering any of the latent heat out of the steam in the flue. Not having a condensing boiler myself I haven't had to deal with the practicalities of this but ISTR from long ago that to get any condensing effect the return must be below 53C and that it is not an on/off effect but develops over a temperature range. *This may not necessarily be correct but keeping the return temperature low is critical in getting the best out of a condensing boiler. No doubt someone more knowledgeable will be along in a minute to pull my contribution apart but don't take any notice of dIMM unless he is backed up by a good majority. -- Roger |
#8
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"Dave" wrote in message ... Do you happen to know whether the U values in the myson software are correct? Estimating air exchange is tough, any suggestions on how to approach it? I use Myson V1.05, not sure if that is the latest version or not. Noticed recently that there is a design program available at http://www.centralheating.co.uk for £15. Find the Myson useful for the maths because it takes into account your mean water temperature and the room temperature but then transfer the results to a spreadsheet. There is a "funny" with this version. The required outputs are presented on a Dt60 basis but with a confusing product reference comment to Dt50 and so have to be factored down to Dt50 before they are useable with current rad data. Jim A |
#9
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Jim Alexander wrote:
.... snipped Find the Myson useful for the maths because it takes into account your mean water temperature and the room temperature but then transfer the results to a spreadsheet. There is a "funny" with this version. The required outputs are presented on a Dt60 basis but with a confusing product reference comment to Dt50 and so have to be factored down to Dt50 before they are useable with current rad data. Jim A Thanks for the warning, where does it say that it's on a Dt60 basis? -- Dave S (The return email address is a dummy) |
#10
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On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 09:19:53 +0000, Dave
wrote: Jim Alexander wrote: ... snipped Find the Myson useful for the maths because it takes into account your mean water temperature and the room temperature but then transfer the results to a spreadsheet. There is a "funny" with this version. The required outputs are presented on a Dt60 basis but with a confusing product reference comment to Dt50 and so have to be factored down to Dt50 before they are useable with current rad data. Jim A Thanks for the warning, where does it say that it's on a Dt60 basis? That's part of the EN 442 test standard. Normally it is mentioned in the radiator data sheet as well. You can deduce it anyway, because there is an accompanying table of correction factors for different dT values. For 60 degrees it is 1.0 -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#11
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"Dave" wrote in message ... Jim Alexander wrote: ... snipped Find the Myson useful for the maths because it takes into account your mean water temperature and the room temperature but then transfer the results to a spreadsheet. There is a "funny" with this version. The required outputs are presented on a Dt60 basis but with a confusing product reference comment to Dt50 and so have to be factored down to Dt50 before they are useable with current rad data. Jim A Thanks for the warning, where does it say that it's on a Dt60 basis? It doesn't, you need to check the data sheets to find out. Jim A |
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