Any suggestions as to what to do about the following would be gratefully
received:

The Honeywell 3 point valve's motor seems to have failed so I have
temporarily "fixed" this by wedging a matchstick in the manual lever so
it forces the HW and CH to be on. However, we do have a problem with the
shower on the 3rd floor which may or may not be coincidental. The HW
pressure on the shower (which is clearly pumped as one can hear the pump
come on and off when the shower is switched on), has become rather weak.
When the knob is turned to colder the pressure increases back to normal.
Over the last week or so, the pressure seems to have progressively
fallen further and further - not to a dribble, but not enough to sustain
a pressured jet for a shower.

The Potterton Suprima 80 boiler occasionally goes into red slow flash
mode, but this is always corrected by pressing the reset button on the
boiler.

Obviously the Honeywell valve (motor at least) needs replacing, but the
low pressure upstairs, and the incidence of the red light coming on in
the boiler suggests something more serious perhaps?

Many thanks in advance.

--
David Longley

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
David Longley wrote:

Any suggestions as to what to do about the following would be
gratefully received:

The Honeywell 3 point valve's motor seems to have failed so I have
temporarily "fixed" this by wedging a matchstick in the manual lever
so it forces the HW and CH to be on. However, we do have a problem
with the shower on the 3rd floor which may or may not be
coincidental. The HW pressure on the shower (which is clearly pumped
as one can hear the pump come on and off when the shower is switched
on), has become rather weak. When the knob is turned to colder the
pressure increases back to normal. Over the last week or so, the
pressure seems to have progressively fallen further and further - not
to a dribble, but not enough to sustain a pressured jet for a shower.

The Potterton Suprima 80 boiler occasionally goes into red slow flash
mode, but this is always corrected by pressing the reset button on the
boiler.

Obviously the Honeywell valve (motor at least) needs replacing, but
the low pressure upstairs, and the incidence of the red light coming
on in the boiler suggests something more serious perhaps?

Many thanks in advance.

I think you have at least two unrelated problems - and it's just
co-incidence that they happened at the same time.

Failure of the actuator motor in the 3-port valve means that you will have
no central heating unless you take action, but the hot water will work ok.
By jamming the valve in the mid position, the radiators will get hot
whenever the hot water is being heated, but you'll still not have any proper
control over the CH - so you need to replace the actuator (or just the
motor, perhaps) ASAP.

I've no idea why the boiler is tripping. I can't see any obvious connection
between that and the actuator failure.

As far as the shower is concerned, you almost certainly have a 2-channel
shower pump - with a single motor which drives 2 pumps - one for the hot and
one for the cold water. If the hot water pressure from this is poor, it
indicates either that there is a blockage somewhere in the hot pipework, or
that there's a problem with the hot bit of the pump - maybe it's lost a few
blades from its impellor?
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

add butter and pasta,
serve piping with hot bread and butter.



Offspring Rolls

Similar to Vietnamese style fried rolls, they have lots of meat
(of course this can consist of chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp).
Who can resist this classic appetizer; or light lunch served with
a fresh salad? Versatility is probably this recipe?s greatest virtue,
as one can use the best part of a prime, rare, yearling, or the
morticians occasional horror: a small miracle stopped short by a
drunk driver, or the innocent victim of a drive-by shooting...

2 cups finely chopped very young human flesh
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 cup bean sprouts
5 sprigs green onion, finely chopped
5 cloves minced garlic
4-6 ounces bamboo shoots
Sherry
chicken broth
oil for deep frying (1 gallon)
Salt
pepper
soy & teriyaki
minced ginger, etc.
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water
1 egg beaten

Make the stuffing:
Marinate the flesh in a mixture of soy and teriyaki sauces
then stir fry in hot oil for till brown - about 1 minute, remove.
Stir-fry the vegetables.
Put the meat back into the wok and adjust the seasoning.
De-glaze with sherry, cooking off the alcohol.
Add broth (optional) cook a few more minutes.
Add the cornstarch, cook a few minutes till thick,
then place the stuffing into a colander and cool;
2 hours
Wrap the rolls:
Place 3 tablespoons of stuffing in the wrap, roll tightly -
corner nearest you first, fold 2 side corners in,
wrap till remaining corner is left.
Brush with egg, seal, and allow to sit on the seal for
a few minutes.
Fry the rolls:
325° if using egg roll wraps, 350° for spring roll wraps.
Deep fry in peanut oil till crispy golden brown, drain on paper towels.



Lemon Neonate

Turkey serves just as well, and in fact

In article , Set Square
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
David Longley wrote:

Any suggestions as to what to do about the following would be
gratefully received:

The Honeywell 3 point valve's motor seems to have failed so I have
temporarily "fixed" this by wedging a matchstick in the manual lever
so it forces the HW and CH to be on. However, we do have a problem
with the shower on the 3rd floor which may or may not be
coincidental. The HW pressure on the shower (which is clearly pumped
as one can hear the pump come on and off when the shower is switched
on), has become rather weak. When the knob is turned to colder the
pressure increases back to normal. Over the last week or so, the
pressure seems to have progressively fallen further and further - not
to a dribble, but not enough to sustain a pressured jet for a shower.

The Potterton Suprima 80 boiler occasionally goes into red slow flash
mode, but this is always corrected by pressing the reset button on the
boiler.

Obviously the Honeywell valve (motor at least) needs replacing, but
the low pressure upstairs, and the incidence of the red light coming
on in the boiler suggests something more serious perhaps?

Many thanks in advance.

I think you have at least two unrelated problems - and it's just
co-incidence that they happened at the same time.

Failure of the actuator motor in the 3-port valve means that you will have
no central heating unless you take action, but the hot water will work ok.
By jamming the valve in the mid position, the radiators will get hot
whenever the hot water is being heated, but you'll still not have any proper
control over the CH - so you need to replace the actuator (or just the
motor, perhaps) ASAP.

I've no idea why the boiler is tripping. I can't see any obvious connection
between that and the actuator failure.

As far as the shower is concerned, you almost certainly have a 2-channel
shower pump - with a single motor which drives 2 pumps - one for the hot and
one for the cold water. If the hot water pressure from this is poor, it
indicates either that there is a blockage somewhere in the hot pipework, or
that there's a problem with the hot bit of the pump - maybe it's lost a few
blades from its impellor?

Many thanks. The shower unit's controls look like a Grohe 1000 BV or
2000BV. I'm not sure how old it is, but this company's pictures and
disassembly diagrams look pretty much like it. Looking through the
schematic, I can't work out where the pump is likely to figure in the
plumbing.

Over the past few days, the noise (from what we assume to be a pump
somewhere behind the wall), cuts out until the knob is turned to the
left - which of course just makes the water cold. I've had a look at the
schematic for the Grohe 2000BV (at www.showerdoc.co.uk) and can't see
how or where a pump would figure in the system (though I assume there
must be one, as the shower is on the third floor). I've taken the chrome
knobs off, and seen that the top knob "simply" rotates a compression
valve. If I keep turning that it almost comes out and there's obviously
pressure behind that so presumably any work there requires the water to
be turned off?

--
David Longley