Can anyone suggest some sort of low tack silicone type sealant?

I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows that don't even have
weights/sash cord etc. They are currently blowing a gale. I'm intending to
totally renovate them next summer (i.e. removal, dip, reglaze, weatherstrip
etc. However, it would be nice not to get an arctic gale in the neck when
sitting there until then.

What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until then.
However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some equivalent
without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness. Any ideas?

Christian.

Putty?

Putty?

I haven't actually used it much. Would it be easy to scrape off months after
the event?

Christian.

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 13:07:24 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Can anyone suggest some sort of low tack silicone type sealant?

I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows that don't even have
weights/sash cord etc. They are currently blowing a gale. I'm intending to
totally renovate them next summer (i.e. removal, dip, reglaze, weatherstrip
etc. However, it would be nice not to get an arctic gale in the neck when
sitting there until then.

What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until then.
However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some equivalent
without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness. Any ideas?

Christian.


I wonder whether acrylic sealer would be a bit less of a problem, but
it would need to be tried first. I used some around a door frame and
ended up replacing it because it didn't stick very well.

Alternatively, how about some foam strip draught excluder. That
would at least cut down the draughts considerably and be easy to
remove afterwards.

I assume you're going to rip all the windows out and replace with uPVC
with triple glazing ;-)





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..andy

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On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 13:21:48 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Putty?

I haven't actually used it much. Would it be easy to scrape off months after
the event?

Christian.


It hardens as the linseed oil soaks into the wood or generally
disappears. Since you would mainly be going onto paint, I assume, it
might not be too bad. Any that does go hard should scrape or sand
off reasonably easily - certainly not as bad as silicone.

Somehow we're back to that TV presenter again :-)





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..andy

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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Christian McArdle wrote:

Can anyone suggest some sort of low tack silicone type sealant?

I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows that don't even have
weights/sash cord etc. They are currently blowing a gale. I'm
intending to totally renovate them next summer (i.e. removal, dip,
reglaze, weatherstrip etc. However, it would be nice not to get an
arctic gale in the neck when sitting there until then.

What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until
then. However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some
equivalent without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness. Any
ideas?

Christian.


Have you thought of using non-drying bedding sealant (Caraseal) as used on
caravans? This will remain softish, and will scrape off - with the remainder
coming off with white spirit. You'd need to tape over any exposed bits to
stop other things from sticking to the sealant.
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Set Square
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In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until then.
However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some equivalent
without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness. Any ideas?

Gaffer tape?

--
*If at first you don't succeed, try management *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

It hardens as the linseed oil soaks into the wood or generally
disappears. Since you would mainly be going onto paint, I assume, it
might not be too bad.

It does sound like it might be suitable. The surfaces to be sealed are
solvent painted and will be stripped back to bare wood subsequently.

Christian.

BluTak?

That would certainly work. However, with about 10m to seal, I think I might
be benefitting the shareholders more than I would like!

You can stop sealants sticking to surfaces by silicone greasing the
surface before applying the sealant, though the sealant way well then
fall out all by itself and you'll never be able to paint the surface
without some serious use of solvents to remove the grease.

Hmmm. Sounds like more hassle that I'd like, though.

Christian.

Have you thought of using non-drying bedding sealant (Caraseal) as used on
caravans? This will remain softish, and will scrape off - with the
remainder
coming off with white spirit. You'd need to tape over any exposed bits to
stop other things from sticking to the sealant.

Unfortunately, the sealant bead would be in a location somewhat prone to
being brushed against, which might not make me very popular!

Christian.

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 15:24:38 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

It hardens as the linseed oil soaks into the wood or generally
disappears. Since you would mainly be going onto paint, I assume, it
might not be too bad.

It does sound like it might be suitable. The surfaces to be sealed are
solvent painted and will be stripped back to bare wood subsequently.

Christian.

The only thing that occurs to me is that the putty might crack as the
windows move in the frames. I suppose you could wedge them with
slivers of wood though....




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..andy

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"Christian McArdle" wrote
| Can anyone suggest some sort of low tack silicone type sealant?
| I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows that don't even
| have weights/sash cord etc. They are currently blowing a gale.
| I'm intending to totally renovate them next summer (i.e. removal,
| dip, reglaze, weatherstrip etc. However, it would be nice not to
| get an arctic gale in the neck when sitting there until then.

It would be. STDTGTTSSSSJAWH [1]

| What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until
| then. However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some
| equivalent without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness.
| Any ideas?

Brown parcel tape. The adhesive will fade after a while and it will make
farting noises as the wind blows through. I have parcel-taped my trickle
vents. Fortunately (???) I have parcel-tape-coloured varnish on the
windowframes anyway.

Owain

[1] Still there, doing that, got the t-shirt, sweat-shirt, jumper and woolly
hat.

Brown parcel tape. The adhesive will fade after a while and it will make
farting noises as the wind blows through.

Yes, I considered tape, but rejected on the basis that it is bound to come
unstuck somewhat earlier than I'm able to find to the time to fix the
windows.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote
| Brown parcel tape. The adhesive will fade after a while and it will
| make farting noises as the wind blows through.
| Yes, I considered tape, but rejected on the basis that it is bound to
| come unstuck somewhat earlier than I'm able to find to the time to
| fix the windows.

Mine's lasted about five years (farting for three of them).

It is the thought of the expense of replacing the tape (with new tape, not
new windows) rather than the work involved that deters me from renewing it.

Owain

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
It hardens as the linseed oil soaks into the wood or generally
disappears. Since you would mainly be going onto paint, I assume, it
might not be too bad.

It does sound like it might be suitable. The surfaces to be sealed are
solvent painted and will be stripped back to bare wood subsequently.

Christian.


Or similarly to the putty suggestion, maybe plumbers mait.

I just pulled out a load that was theoretically filling the joint between a
pedestal and basin that I put in about 3 years ago. It had recently gone
particularly wobbly, so much so that the pedestal could be wiggled out after
taking out the two floor screws.

Before redoing the job with silicone (which will now hopefully last forever)
it was very easy to peel off the plumbers mait, and the resulting chunk,
after a bit of kneading, was almost identical to fresh stuff out of the
tub - it didn't seem to have set at all. Might be worth a try.

Regards,
Simon.

On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 19:00:16 -0000, "Owain"
wrote:

"Christian McArdle" wrote
| Brown parcel tape. The adhesive will fade after a while and it will
| make farting noises as the wind blows through.
| Yes, I considered tape, but rejected on the basis that it is bound to
| come unstuck somewhat earlier than I'm able to find to the time to
| fix the windows.

Mine's lasted about five years (farting for three of them).

It is the thought of the expense of replacing the tape (with new tape, not
new windows) rather than the work involved that deters me from renewing it.

Owain


You've been living in Scotland for too long, Owain :-)



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..andy

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Christian McArdle typed:

Can anyone suggest some sort of low tack silicone type sealant?

I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows that don't even have
weights/sash cord etc. They are currently blowing a gale.

snip
acrylic frame sealant, it will skin but stay reasonably soft on the inside
for several months.


--
Mark

Christian McArdle wrote:

Can anyone suggest some sort of low tack silicone type sealant?

I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows that don't even have
weights/sash cord etc. They are currently blowing a gale. I'm intending to
totally renovate them next summer (i.e. removal, dip, reglaze, weatherstrip
etc. However, it would be nice not to get an arctic gale in the neck when
sitting there until then.

What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until then.
However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some equivalent
without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness. Any ideas?

Christian.


Try decorators caulk. Maybe grease up teh slides first.

But silicnes is peelable off wood usually.

Before redoing the job with silicone (which will now hopefully last
forever)
it was very easy to peel off the plumbers mait, and the resulting chunk,
after a bit of kneading, was almost identical to fresh stuff out of the
tub - it didn't seem to have set at all. Might be worth a try.

Especially as I have a large tub sitting around. Odd stuff this Mait.
Everyone seems to buy a tub, thinking it must be needed for some plumbing
tasks, but it very rarely is.

Christian.

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
Odd stuff this Mait.
Everyone seems to buy a tub, thinking it must be needed for some plumbing
tasks, but it very rarely is.

Ideal for bedding in wastes to basins, etc. Especially ceramic or cast
types which can be quite uneven.

--
*Never test the depth of the water with both feet.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Ideal for bedding in wastes to basins, etc. Especially ceramic or cast
types which can be quite uneven.

But I, along with anyone I've ever spoken to, always end up removing the
mait and replacing with silicone, which actually does the job!

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net

I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows

What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone

It would take as much work masticking them as repairing.

It sounds like your parting bead is worn and the staff bead is in need
of moving in.

Get a replacement strip of each for emergencies and remove the old ones
with a paint scraper or similar blade.

You may be able to reseat the parting bead, that's the one in between
the two sashes, to fit tighter to the top (outside) sash. Rub some
candle grease on it and fit it tight up or replace as needed. If it is
still too slack, put some self adhesive draught excluder on the top sash
so it fits tightly.

The staff bead can go fairly snug up against the inner -bottom, sash
again with candle wax. Fix the bead at the bottom with the sash down,
then at the top with the sash up. Use 1 1/2" ovals if the old nails are
stuffed.

These windows were designed to permit some draught. Draught excluder
might minimise that.

(Look a bugger though.)




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On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:17:43 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Before redoing the job with silicone (which will now hopefully last
forever)
it was very easy to peel off the plumbers mait, and the resulting chunk,
after a bit of kneading, was almost identical to fresh stuff out of the
tub - it didn't seem to have set at all. Might be worth a try.

Especially as I have a large tub sitting around. Odd stuff this Mait.
Everyone seems to buy a tub, thinking it must be needed for some plumbing
tasks, but it very rarely is.

Christian.



Although if you change your name to it, it is generally worth a few
extra percent in the merchants. Just remember to go with oldest
clothes and your arse partly hanging out over the belt. :-)

Leave the gold card at home and attend with the obligatory roll of
fivers.




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Christian McArdle wrote:
Can anyone suggest some sort of low tack silicone type sealant?

I have a number of extremely leaky sash windows that don't even have
weights/sash cord etc. They are currently blowing a gale. I'm intending to
totally renovate them next summer (i.e. removal, dip, reglaze, weatherstrip
etc. However, it would be nice not to get an arctic gale in the neck when
sitting there until then.

What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until then.
However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some equivalent
without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness. Any ideas?

Why not put some form of tape over the cracks instead - duck tape /
insulating tape / masking tape depending on colour availability and
requirements, and how fussy SWMBO is?!)

David

Just remember to go with oldest clothes and your arse partly hanging
out over the belt. :-)

That pretty much describes me most of the time. No special effort needed.
;-)

Leave the gold card at home and attend with the obligatory roll of
fivers.

I find they don't mind the cards, but I do arrive in a Fiat Ducato van that
I try to park noisily by the front door.

Christian.

In article , "Andy Hall"
am says...
snip

Although if you change your name to it, it is generally worth a few
extra percent in the merchants. Just remember to go with oldest
clothes and your arse partly hanging out over the belt. :-)

Is that why I always seem to end up paying less than I expected?

Steve Firth wrote:
Christian McArdle wrote:

What I would like to do is just seal them shut with silicone until then.
However, silicone is a bitch to remove, so would prefer some equivalent
without the same level of stickiness and stretchiness. Any ideas?

BluTak?

You can stop sealants sticking to surfaces by silicone greasing the
surface before applying the sealant, though the sealant way well then
fall out all by itself and you'll never be able to paint the surface
without some serious use of solvents to remove the grease.

I used Flora Buttery, on packing tape that had been made low-tack (dust
it with talcum)
Run a generous bead (neat as you can) on the other surface, close window,
leave closed for 24 hours, open, remove tape.

In article , Christian
McArdle wrote:
That would certainly work. However, with about 10m to seal, I think I might
be benefitting the shareholders more than I would like!

That's a job for duck/duct tape.
stu