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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Shaver sockets
I was in B&Q last weekend looking for a shaver socket - well actually
it's for my electric tooth brush. Found one 240/110 volts but it had in big print - not suitable for bathrooms ... eh? Where am I expected to shave/clean my teeth ... anyone know the regs on this? Thanks in advance, Rob |
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"Rob Griffiths" wrote in message ... I was in B&Q last weekend looking for a shaver socket - well actually it's for my electric tooth brush. Found one 240/110 volts but it had in big print - not suitable for bathrooms ... eh? Where am I expected to shave/clean my teeth ... anyone know the regs on this? Those that say not for bathrooms are for bedrooms, where there will be no excessive condensation, and less likely to have a wet naked body fumbling with electrical appliances. |
#3
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In article ,
Rob Griffiths wrote: I was in B&Q last weekend looking for a shaver socket - well actually it's for my electric tooth brush. Found one 240/110 volts but it had in big print - not suitable for bathrooms ... eh? Where am I expected to shave/clean my teeth ... anyone know the regs on this? Means it's not got an isolating transformer - so cheaper. It would be suitable for a room where bathroom regs don't apply - guest bedroom, etc. -- *El nino made me do it Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 13:44:51 +0000, Rob Griffiths
wrote: I was in B&Q last weekend looking for a shaver socket - well actually it's for my electric tooth brush. Found one 240/110 volts but it had in big print - not suitable for bathrooms ... eh? Where am I expected to shave/clean my teeth ... anyone know the regs on this? Thanks in advance, Rob I guess it was in the department selling chocolate teapots and ashtrays for motorbikes. :-) The normal shaver socket for a bathroom with 240 and 110v outlets has an isolating transformer and is precisely for use in bathrooms. It's off that they have one on sale that isn't. A typical product would be MK part number K701WHI http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products...6&rangeid=1030 These do need a deep mounting box, BTW. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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Andy Hall wrote:
A typical product would be MK part number K701WHI http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products...6&rangeid=1030 These do need a deep mounting box, BTW. This deep mounting box requirement caused me lots of grief when I fitted one in our bathroom recently, it's fitted on a plasterboard (dry lined) wall near the washbasin and I just couldn't find any deep enough dry lining boxes anywhere. (Not to mention the hassle I had routing the cable but that's an aside) In the end I cut a neat little hole in a standard dry lining box to accomodate the bit of the transformer which stuck out. Not exactly an ideal solution but I can't see any problem with it in reality. -- Chris Green |
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On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 14:05:40 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , Rob Griffiths wrote: I was in B&Q last weekend looking for a shaver socket - well actually it's for my electric tooth brush. Found one 240/110 volts but it had in big print - not suitable for bathrooms ... eh? Where am I expected to shave/clean my teeth ... anyone know the regs on this? Means it's not got an isolating transformer - so cheaper. It would be suitable for a room where bathroom regs don't apply - guest bedroom, etc. Although it must have an autotransformer to manage 110v, so it seems rather silly to cripple the product. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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and I just couldn't find any deep enough dry lining boxes anywhere.
You can get "wings" for standard metal boxes to convert them to drylining type. However, I avoid drylining boxes where possible. I prefer to stick a wooden block behind (or noggin between studs) and mount a metal box to that if at all possible. Christian. |
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In article ,
Andy Hall wrote: Means it's not got an isolating transformer - so cheaper. It would be suitable for a room where bathroom regs don't apply - guest bedroom, etc. Although it must have an autotransformer to manage 110v, so it seems rather silly to cripple the product. Might be done electronically. -- *It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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"Rob Griffiths" wrote in message ... I was in B&Q last weekend looking for a shaver socket - well actually it's for my electric tooth brush. Found one 240/110 volts but it had in big print - not suitable for bathrooms ... eh? Where am I expected to shave/clean my teeth ... anyone know the regs on this? Thanks in advance, Rob I set out to buy a bathroom shaver socket, and discovered that it was cheaper to buy a 60 watt tubular shaver light with isolating transformer from Wickes for £9.99. This won't really help you unless you want to recharge your toothbrush with the light on, but it surprised me. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.799 / Virus Database: 543 - Release Date: 19/11/2004 |
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On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 15:41:38 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote: and I just couldn't find any deep enough dry lining boxes anywhere. You can get "wings" for standard metal boxes to convert them to drylining type. However, I avoid drylining boxes where possible. Does anyone else recess the plasterboard/plaster under the lip of the dry-liner box so that the flush sockets do actually sit flush with the wall? It only takes a couple of minutes with a stanley knife to do the job. I prefer to stick a wooden block behind (or noggin between studs) and mount a metal box to that if at all possible. Yes, especially if the box is close to a vertical studding that would interfere with the wing. Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
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In article ,
Phil Addison wrote: Does anyone else recess the plasterboard/plaster under the lip of the dry-liner box so that the flush sockets do actually sit flush with the wall? It only takes a couple of minutes with a stanley knife to do the job. I hate the things and never use them. Of course, I'm not charging out my time. I fix two battens to the back of the plasterboard - either side - and screw a metal box to them. End result is as strong as the plasterboard. Works on lath and plaster too. -- *Dance like nobody's watching. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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Christian McArdle wrote:
and I just couldn't find any deep enough dry lining boxes anywhere. You can get "wings" for standard metal boxes to convert them to drylining type. However, I avoid drylining boxes where possible. I prefer to stick a wooden block behind (or noggin between studs) and mount a metal box to that if at all possible. This was in a dormer window so the woodwork behind was complicated, as I said I had an awful time routing the cable, playing games trying to provide a support for a metal box would have taken even *more* time. As it was it took almost a whole day to simply install a shaver point which seemed a bit excessive! -- Chris Green |
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In article
, Rob Griffiths wrote: I was in B&Q last weekend looking for a shaver socket - well actually it's for my electric tooth brush. Found one 240/110 volts but it had in big print - not suitable for bathrooms ... eh? Where am I expected to shave/clean my teeth ... anyone know the regs on this? Thanks in advance, Rob Thanks for all the info - I think I'll just avoid B&Q and go to a proper electrical factor! |
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In article ,
Nigel M wrote: Means it's not got an isolating transformer - so cheaper. It would be suitable for a room where bathroom regs don't apply - guest bedroom, etc. I think that the regs need revising on this matter. Could be. An isolating transformer only protects you if you come in contact with just one of the conductors - you could be touching a live wire for months without realising it. Indeed. That's the main benefit. But surely if a cable was damaged to allow this it would be obvious? Not seen any metal cased shavers for a while. An RCD will protect you in the event of coming into contact with both or either; indeed, an isolating transformer will completely nullify the effect of an RCD, by balancing out the flow and return. You'd need a local RCD - perhaps a 10mA type, and it might well cost more than an isolating tranny. -- *How come you never hear about gruntled employees? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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Nigel M wrote:
In uk.d-i-y, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: Means it's not got an isolating transformer - so cheaper. It would be suitable for a room where bathroom regs don't apply - guest bedroom, etc. I think that the regs need revising on this matter. An isolating transformer only protects you if you come in contact with just one of the conductors - you could be touching a live wire for months without realising it. It will also greatly restrict the current availability should you contact both. Also since neither of its legs are connected to anything resembling a general earth, it would be much harder to contact both lines in a dabgerous way (i.e. hand to foot etc, causing current flow across the chest). An RCD will protect you in the event of coming into contact with both or either; indeed, an isolating transformer will completely nullify the effect of an RCD, by balancing out the flow and return. If you were well isolated, then the RCD may not detect you connecting to both contacts, since you could look just like a circuit with little or no loss to earth. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#17
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Phil Addison wrote:
Does anyone else recess the plasterboard/plaster under the lip of the dry-liner box so that the flush sockets do actually sit flush with the wall? It only takes a couple of minutes with a stanley knife to do the job. If you fit them to a plasterboard wall before you skim, then you can skim them flush that way. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#18
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On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 12:28:17 +0000, John Rumm
wrote: Phil Addison wrote: Does anyone else recess the plasterboard/plaster under the lip of the dry-liner box so that the flush sockets do actually sit flush with the wall? It only takes a couple of minutes with a stanley knife to do the job. If you fit them to a plasterboard wall before you skim, then you can skim them flush that way. Yes, of course. I was referring to the cases where either the p/b is not planned to be skimmed (yuch, but it happens), or the retrofit case where it is already skimmed. Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ Remove NOSPAM from address to email me |
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