Hi,

What are the current building regulations relating to the fitting of
an outside tap?

Cheers, W

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
W wrote:

Hi,

What are the current building regulations relating to the fitting of
an outside tap?

Cheers, W

Not sure about building regs as such, but your water company will require
you to feed it via a double check valve to make sure that nothing nasty can
get sucked back into the mains supply.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:36:18 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
W wrote:

Hi,

What are the current building regulations relating to the fitting of
an outside tap?

Cheers, W

Not sure about building regs as such, but your water company will require
you to feed it via a double check valve to make sure that nothing nasty can
get sucked back into the mains supply.

Thanks. Is there any requirements for some kind of isolation valve to
prevent freezing in winter?

TIA, W

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
W wrote:

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:36:18 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
W wrote:

Hi,

What are the current building regulations relating to the fitting of
an outside tap?

Cheers, W

Not sure about building regs as such, but your water company will
require you to feed it via a double check valve to make sure that
nothing nasty can get sucked back into the mains supply.

Thanks. Is there any requirements for some kind of isolation valve to
prevent freezing in winter?

TIA, W

Don't know of any such requirement - but it is good practice. Put an in-line
tap inside the house, and a drain cock at the lowest point of the pipework.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"W" wrote in message
...
Hi,

What are the current building regulations relating to the fitting of
an outside tap?

Cheers, W


It's always practical to put some kind of stopcock and draincock inside the
house where it should be warmer in the winter than outside. Putting these
in the system will allow the tap to be completely isolated in freezing
conditions and you don't have to go outside to do it. If you are planning
to have a long run of pipework outside the house, remember to wrap lagging
tape or insulation tube over all the exposed parts to help prevent any
freezing if you intend to use the tap occasionally during the winter months.

But an internal stopcock, and drainage point after it, is always best
practice.

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 15:26:27 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:

Don't know of any such requirement - but it is good practice. Put an in-line
tap inside the house, and a drain cock at the lowest point of the pipework.

Thanks for the info.

Cheers.

Hi,

What are the current building regulations relating to the fitting of
an outside tap?

Cheers, W


It's always practical to put some kind of stopcock and draincock inside
the
house where it should be warmer in the winter than outside. Putting these
in the system will allow the tap to be completely isolated in freezing
conditions and you don't have to go outside to do it. If you are planning
to have a long run of pipework outside the house, remember to wrap lagging
tape or insulation tube over all the exposed parts to help prevent any
freezing if you intend to use the tap occasionally during the winter
months.

But an internal stopcock, and drainage point after it, is always best
practice.

When I plumbed in our tap recently I put in the dbl check valve and a full
bore ball valve for isolation but didnt put a drainage point in (dont know
why really). So is the best practice in this case to close the ball valve
and leave the tap open to leave room for any expansion (there are only a
couple of inches of pipe outside so I doubt much of it would be liable to
freeze anyway).

cheers

Dave.

"a" wrote in message
...
Hi,

What are the current building regulations relating to the fitting of
an outside tap?

Cheers, W


It's always practical to put some kind of stopcock and draincock inside
the
house where it should be warmer in the winter than outside. Putting
these
in the system will allow the tap to be completely isolated in freezing
conditions and you don't have to go outside to do it. If you are
planning
to have a long run of pipework outside the house, remember to wrap
lagging
tape or insulation tube over all the exposed parts to help prevent any
freezing if you intend to use the tap occasionally during the winter
months.

But an internal stopcock, and drainage point after it, is always best
practice.

When I plumbed in our tap recently I put in the dbl check valve and a full
bore ball valve for isolation but didnt put a drainage point in (dont know
why really). So is the best practice in this case to close the ball valve
and leave the tap open to leave room for any expansion (there are only a
couple of inches of pipe outside so I doubt much of it would be liable to
freeze anyway).

cheers

Dave.



It's not hugely important to have a drainage point on very short runs, say
directly through the wall to the tap. But in the case of any pipework that
may be exposed to the freezing weather, then it's a good idea to wrap or
cover the tap with non-absorbent material to keep some of the heat in and,
of course, the cold out.

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 00:38:05 GMT, "BigWallop"
wrote:

It's not hugely important to have a drainage point on very short runs, say
directly through the wall to the tap. But in the case of any pipework that
may be exposed to the freezing weather, then it's a good idea to wrap or
cover the tap with non-absorbent material to keep some of the heat in and,
of course, the cold out.

Thanks for the help.

W