On both of my radiators that fit underneath bay windows, the bottom half of
the radiator in the middle (long) section does not heat up. Both ends of the
radiator, and the top of the middle section does get hot.
Does this indicate some sort of blockage in the radiators?
And if so, what would be the best way to relieve the problem?

Thanks
Paul

"Paul S" wrote in message
...
On both of my radiators that fit underneath bay windows, the bottom half
of
the radiator in the middle (long) section does not heat up. Both ends of
the
radiator, and the top of the middle section does get hot.
Does this indicate some sort of blockage in the radiators?
And if so, what would be the best way to relieve the problem?

Thanks
Paul


That would be sludge then.
Remove radiator, take outside, and clean out with a hose until it runs
clear.
Repeat for every affected rad in the house.
Watch out for spills of dirty brown water on carpet when removing.

Alan.

On both of my radiators that fit underneath bay windows, the bottom half
of
the radiator in the middle (long) section does not heat up. Both ends of
the
radiator, and the top of the middle section does get hot.

That is usually sludge in the radiators. Not only should each radiators be
totally cleansed (either by taking outside and hosed, or using the often
overpriced powerflush), but afterwards ensure that you run for a week or two
with a desludging chemical. After two weeks, flush out following the
manufacturer's instructions and refill with a corrosion inhibitor.

It was this lack of inhibitor that probably led to your system's current
sorry state.

You may wish to find out why there was insufficient inhibitor in your system
so the problem doesn't recur. Some possibilities:

1. The system has a leak, so the water (and inhibitor) leak away and is
replaced by fresh water (sans inhibitor).
2. The system occassionally or constantly ejects water through the
overflow/pressure relief.
3. A misguided plumber couldn't be bothered to install some, perhaps in the
hope of drumming up business, or, perhaps, through complete ignorance.
4. The inhibitor is so old that it is no longer effective.
5. An insufficient quantity, or inappropriate type of inhibitor was used for
the type of system.

Christian.

Any way of flushing the whole system without having to remove individual
radiators?

You could powerflush, but this is very expensive. If the radiator has got as
bad as described, you are unlikely to have much success with desludging
chemicals alone.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Any way of flushing the whole system without having to remove individual
radiators?

You could powerflush, but this is very expensive. If the radiator has got
as
bad as described, you are unlikely to have much success with desludging
chemicals alone.

Christian.


Ok, thanks. Looks like I'll be removing the radiators then!!

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
On both of my radiators that fit underneath bay windows, the bottom half
of
the radiator in the middle (long) section does not heat up. Both ends of
the
radiator, and the top of the middle section does get hot.

That is usually sludge in the radiators. Not only should each radiators be
totally cleansed (either by taking outside and hosed, or using the often
overpriced powerflush), but afterwards ensure that you run for a week or
two
with a desludging chemical. After two weeks, flush out following the
manufacturer's instructions and refill with a corrosion inhibitor.

It was this lack of inhibitor that probably led to your system's current
sorry state.

You may wish to find out why there was insufficient inhibitor in your
system
so the problem doesn't recur. Some possibilities:

1. The system has a leak, so the water (and inhibitor) leak away and is
replaced by fresh water (sans inhibitor).
2. The system occassionally or constantly ejects water through the
overflow/pressure relief.
3. A misguided plumber couldn't be bothered to install some, perhaps in
the
hope of drumming up business, or, perhaps, through complete ignorance.
4. The inhibitor is so old that it is no longer effective.
5. An insufficient quantity, or inappropriate type of inhibitor was used
for
the type of system.


hmmmm .... thinks..... I have just had my system drained down recently and I
do not know if the guy used inhibitor or not. Short of trying to find him
again, is there any way to find out if he did use any (now that I write
that; that looks like a silly question) or can you just put more in?

Des



Christian.

hmmmm .... thinks..... I have just had my system drained down recently and
I
do not know if the guy used inhibitor or not. Short of trying to find him
again, is there any way to find out if he did use any (now that I write
that; that looks like a silly question) or can you just put more in?

Flush the system out thoroughly first. Then refill using inhibitor. You want
to get rid of most of the old dirty water before topping up.

Christian.

In article , Des Higgins
writes
hmmmm .... thinks..... I have just had my system drained down recently and I
do not know if the guy used inhibitor or not. Short of trying to find him
again, is there any way to find out if he did use any (now that I write
that; that looks like a silly question) or can you just put more in?

If you drain a little from a radiator bleed vent it should have a dark straw
type colour and a noticeable smell, however if there was none in there at
all then that straw colour could be rust ;-).

The manufacturers used to recommend a test which was IIRC to draw off a
small amount from a radiator, just 20ml or so, then dilute it 10:1 with clean
water to make about half a cup full (200ml) drop in a clean steel nail &
leave for a week. If there is any trace of rust on the nail then drain, flush
(with just water) & refill with correct level of inhibitor.

I'd only suggest this if the system had been fully drained & refilled to check
whether there was either some or none in a system, if the system was
partially drained & then refilled but no further inhibitor added then there
may be enough to pass the test, but not enough to protect the system for
the next few years.

I'm sure you'll get the 'it's only 20quid so put some in anyway argument',
but if your tradesman was a reliable chap(ess) & added the right stuff, then
that's 20quid that you can spend elsewhere. On the other hand, any
doubts then drain & replace.

phew bit long that, sorry . . .
--
fred