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nicoll
 
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Default Built in oven wiring question.


I intend to replace a built in single oven with a double oven.

The single oven is connected with 6mm T&E but does not have a local
isolator. I will terminate the existing cable in a 45A cooker switch. How
do I then connect the new double oven to the cooker switch? I don't know if
the oven comes with a flex or not. Should there be a separate cooker outlet
at the back of the oven housing to connect the oven to.

Thanks


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Richard Porter
 
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On 16 Oct 2004 "nicoll" wrote:

I intend to replace a built in single oven with a double oven.

The single oven is connected with 6mm T&E but does not have a local
isolator. I will terminate the existing cable in a 45A cooker switch. How
do I then connect the new double oven to the cooker switch?


You get a bit of suitable cable or flex and connect it.

I don't know if the oven comes with a flex or not.


Probably not but you'll find out. You'd normally use a bit of the same
cable.

Should there be a separate cooker outlet at the back of the oven
housing to connect the oven to.


Yes. You'll need a separate cooker outlet plate which you locate on a
wall box behind the cooker. It includes a cable clamp but the cable goes
right through a conduit or chasing to the switch.

If the switch is right next to the unit and is on a surface mounting
patress then you may be able to cut a slot in the edge of the unit and
take the cable directly into the switch.

--
Richard Porter
Mail to username ricp at domain minijem.plus.com
"You can't have Windows without pains."
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Stefek Zaba
 
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nicoll wrote:
I intend to replace a built in single oven with a double oven.

The single oven is connected with 6mm T&E but does not have a local
isolator. I will terminate the existing cable in a 45A cooker switch. How
do I then connect the new double oven to the cooker switch? I don't know if
the oven comes with a flex or not. Should there be a separate cooker outlet
at the back of the oven housing to connect the oven to.

Thanks

This "double oven" - is the "doubleness" simply in its internal layout,
with just one cable to feed it? If so, wiring either the supplied flex
(if it comes with such) or a length of 2.5mm T&E into the new 45A cooker
switch is "probably" OK. The exact "probably" depends on the details of
the cooker rating - what its peak current draw is, whether you're in
fact likely to run at or close to that max for extended periods, and the
length of that shorter piece of thinner cable. The calculation you need
to perform is (a) whether the flex or thinner cable can carry the max
load the double oven can create (with possible correction for higher
ambient temperature if the feed cable/flex will be tucked up behind the
oven housing where it'll be warmer than room temp), (b) whether the
protective device on the cooker circuit (tell us what it is - a 32A Type
B MCB?) will protect the thinner cable in the event of a short, and (c)
whether the oven's installation instructions call for a lower-amperage
protective device than your existing 6mmsq circuit has (though if you've
only the one oven, you could change the MCB to a 16A one if that's what
it says it wants).

If you want to avoid such calculations-and-considerations, connecting up
with 6mmsq throughout is "clearly" OK, since that's what the existing
circuit is designed in - provided the oven doesn't require lower-rated
protection; as is putting in a fused connection unit (FCU) to transition
between the 32A-MCB-protected 6mmsq to a supplied flex - now the 13A
fuse in the FCU protects the flex; as is running a length of 2.5mmsq
from the new cooker switch to a 13A socket (unswitched, to avoid
mysterious loss of power!) in the back of or just next to the oven
installation hole, if your oven comes with a moulded-on plug you'd
rather not chop off - here the lower-rated 2.5mmsq cable is protected
against overload by the Nature Of The Load (if fitted with a 13A plug,
your oven clearly isn't designed to pull more than 13A) and against
short circuit ("fault current" if we're using Regs-speak) by both the
plugtop fuse and the MCB in the CU.

HTH - Stefek
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Peter
 
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Default


"nicoll" wrote in message
...

I intend to replace a built in single oven with a double oven.

The single oven is connected with 6mm T&E but does not have a local
isolator. I will terminate the existing cable in a 45A cooker switch. How
do I then connect the new double oven to the cooker switch? I don't know

if
the oven comes with a flex or not. Should there be a separate cooker

outlet
at the back of the oven housing to connect the oven to.

Thanks

Run from the isolator (within 2mtrs of appliance) to a cooker connection
point behind cooker, connect new cooker to this point when it arrives it
will not come with flex.

Peter


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Owain
 
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"nicoll" wrote
| I intend to replace a built in single oven with a double oven.
| The single oven is connected with 6mm T&E but does not have a
| local isolator. I will terminate the existing cable in a 45A
| cooker switch. How do I then connect the new double oven to the
| cooker switch? I don't know if the oven comes with a flex or
| not. Should there be a separate cooker outlet at the back of
| the oven housing to connect the oven to.

From the cooker switch you continue in 6mm fixed wiring to the back of (or
beside) the oven, where you use a cooker connection unit to make the final
connection to the oven, either using the oven's integral flex/cable or
another piece of 6mm.

Cooker connection unit (note these have a cable clamp for the flying lead,
they are not just ordinary junction boxes)
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK5045.html
or similar

Owain



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Dave Plowman (News)
 
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Default

In article ,
nicoll wrote:
The single oven is connected with 6mm T&E but does not have a local
isolator. I will terminate the existing cable in a 45A cooker switch.
How do I then connect the new double oven to the cooker switch? I don't
know if the oven comes with a flex or not. Should there be a separate
cooker outlet at the back of the oven housing to connect the oven to.


If it requires more than a 13 amp feed, it's normal to wire from the
switch to the cooker in the same cable as the 'main' feed - there are
terminals in the back for connection.

--
*The first rule of holes: If you are in one, stop digging!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #7   Report Post  
Ed Sirett
 
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On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 13:02:05 +0100, nicoll wrote:


I intend to replace a built in single oven with a double oven.

The single oven is connected with 6mm T&E but does not have a local
isolator. I will terminate the existing cable in a 45A cooker switch. How
do I then connect the new double oven to the cooker switch? I don't know if
the oven comes with a flex or not. Should there be a separate cooker outlet
at the back of the oven housing to connect the oven to.

Typically single oven/grills take 13A can be fed from a socket nearby in
the cupboard below.

Double ovens/grills will typically require a 20A supply. This will be in
2.5T&E with a 20A MCB or you might use your existing arrangements for a
freestanding cooker with 30,32 or 45 A and 4,6 or 10T&E wiring.
In all these cases you run the wire to double pole switch within 2m of the
appliance and then either to a connection outlet or a leave enough slack
behind the oven to connect when you install the appliance.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html


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nicoll
 
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Thanks for answers.

We haven't selected the double oven yet so I don't know the rating.

Is there any particular type of flex (rather than cable) I should use
between the oven and the connection unit?



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Peter
 
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"nicoll" wrote in message
...
Thanks for answers.

We haven't selected the double oven yet so I don't know the rating.

Is there any particular type of flex (rather than cable) I should use
between the oven and the connection unit?


4.0mm 3183TQ Butyl Flex Heat Resistant EPR Insulated and CSP Sheathed
Temperature range: to 85°C Current Rating: 35 Amps

Peter


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Stefek Zaba
 
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nicoll wrote:
Thanks for answers.

We haven't selected the double oven yet so I don't know the rating.

Is there any particular type of flex (rather than cable) I should use
between the oven and the connection unit?

Premature, then, to select the cable/flex until you have at least a
rough idea of the oven's current requirements. As noted, you won't go
wrong using 6mmsq, but if the oven comes with a built-in and
not-readily-replaceable flex you'll have wasted your time getting in the
length of 6mmsq. Is there any great rush in this kitchen job?
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