Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim+ formulated the question :
Shouldnt it have turned itself off at 20 or are digital ones designed to keep calling for heat for a period after reaching the target temperature? Digital ones also have to have hysteresis too, otherwise your heating system would be switching on and off too rapidly. There are better ways - You can buy integrated systems which are able to predict how much heat input is needed, so as to just hit the set temperature, then as that is neared, they ramp the boiler output down and eventually off. When more heat input is needed, they will run the boiler at a suitably low output, that they don't over shoot the setting. I have such a system and it makes the heating system unoticeable, no more temperature cycling as the boiler cuts in and out, no noise as pipes expand and contract. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Programmable c/h room thermostat, with adjustable hysteresis / deadzone? | UK diy | |||
Hysteresis on the Honeywell old-style bulb thermostat | Home Repair | |||
Hysteresis on the Honeywell old-style bulb thermostat | Electronics Repair | |||
thermostat with adjustable hysteresis? | Home Repair | |||
Too much hysteresis in water heater thermostat | Home Repair |