I seem to have got a countersinking bit stuck inside a keyless chuck on my
bosch drill. It just squeezed inside and now i cant get it out. any ideas or
is it time for a new chuck? thanks in advance and yes i will use a proper
holder for it next time!

Carefully heat the chuck with a blowlamp in the hope that it will expand
more quickly than the bit so the latter will come out? Don't know what this
might do to the properties of the metal the chuck is made of though.

"rrh" wrote in message
...
Carefully heat the chuck with a blowlamp in the hope that it will expand
more quickly than the bit so the latter will come out? Don't know what
this
might do to the properties of the metal the chuck is made of though.


Perhaps with a 'slight' strain on it by holding the outer part of chuck in
the bench vise, twist and try a slight tap with a light hammer.
Suspect jaws of chuck may have snugged up against bottom edge of the
countersink head and jammed?
Alternatively can you hold the countersink it self in the bench vise and try
tapping the outer ring of the chuck with a drift punch? Or even turn with a
pipe wrench, after all you gotta. get it out somehow otherwise drill is no
good for anything else?

"Steve Exley" wrote in message
...
I seem to have got a countersinking bit stuck inside a keyless chuck on my
bosch drill.
snip

Get a pair of mole grips tightly on the outer side (furthest half away from
the drill body) and give it a slap with a hammer.
Sounds like you have "seized" it up.

If that don't work and free it up after 20 or so slaps, consign it to use as
your Countersinking drill.

Then go buy another one, remembering not to tighten the bits much

hTh
--
Jet

"rrh" wrote in message
...
Carefully heat the chuck with a blowlamp in the hope that it will expand
more quickly than the bit so the latter will come out? Don't know what
this
might do to the properties of the metal the chuck is made of though.


I guess that would get all the plastic stuff out of the way on a "KEYLESS"
chuck. Good old "rrh"

In message , rrh
writes
Carefully heat the chuck with a blowlamp in the hope that it will expand
more quickly than the bit so the latter will come out? Don't know what this
might do to the properties of the metal the chuck is made of though.

Keyless chucks tend to have a plastic coating


--
geoff

Perhaps with a 'slight' strain on it by holding the outer part of chuck in
the bench vise, twist and try a slight tap with a light hammer.

Or how about gripping the bit in the vice and turning the drill on?

"Jet" wrote in message . co.uk...
"Steve Exley" wrote in message
...
I seem to have got a countersinking bit stuck inside a keyless chuck on my
bosch drill.
snip

Get a pair of mole grips tightly on the outer side (furthest half away from
the drill body) and give it a slap with a hammer.
Sounds like you have "seized" it up.

If that don't work and free it up after 20 or so slaps, consign it to use as
your Countersinking drill.

Then go buy another one, remembering not to tighten the bits much

hTh

Out of interest, how much would it cost to replace a keyless chuck
with a proper chuck, half inch size. It is impossible to use in
hammermode with any drill less than about 7mm dia because you can't do
the chuck up tight enough.
The hammer action drives the drill into the chuck until only an inch
or so protrudes.
I find these chucks absolutely bloody useless. Alternatively I buy a
set of long series masonary drills that are fitted to the bottom of
the chuck anyway.

"Steve Exley" wrote in message
...
I seem to have got a countersinking bit stuck inside a keyless chuck on my
bosch drill.
snip

replacement chucks are only a fiver or so, so if it comes to it you
could always saw/angle grind the old one off and replace. They screw
onto a standard thread. But hopefully you should be able to get it off
somehow. Penetrating oil might help, maybe.

NT

"Kevin" wrote in message
om...
"Jet" wrote in message
. co.uk...
"Steve Exley" wrote in message
...
I seem to have got a countersinking bit stuck inside a keyless chuck
on my
bosch drill.
snip

Get a pair of mole grips tightly on the outer side (furthest half away
from
the drill body) and give it a slap with a hammer.
Sounds like you have "seized" it up.

If that don't work and free it up after 20 or so slaps, consign it to
use as
your Countersinking drill.

Then go buy another one, remembering not to tighten the bits much

hTh

Out of interest, how much would it cost to replace a keyless chuck
with a proper chuck, half inch size. It is impossible to use in
hammermode with any drill less than about 7mm dia because you can't do
the chuck up tight enough.
The hammer action drives the drill into the chuck until only an inch
or so protrudes.
I find these chucks absolutely bloody useless. Alternatively I buy a
set of long series masonary drills that are fitted to the bottom of
the chuck anyway.

I have had a Black and Decker keyless chuck drill for 10 years and it is
great but admittedly, I have never
tried hammer action with bits less than 7mm diam. For 7-10mm the hammer
action is fine.
They do slip if the bit jams in the wall. For less than 7mm, is just use
normal action unless I am drilling into the wifes Quiche.

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , rrh
writes
Carefully heat the chuck with a blowlamp in the hope that it will expand
more quickly than the bit so the latter will come out? Don't know what
this
might do to the properties of the metal the chuck is made of though.

Keyless chucks tend to have a plastic coating


Remind me to know what I'm talking about next time...there's a first time
for everything!

In message , rrh
writes
"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , rrh
writes
Carefully heat the chuck with a blowlamp in the hope that it will expand
more quickly than the bit so the latter will come out? Don't know what
this
might do to the properties of the metal the chuck is made of though.

Keyless chucks tend to have a plastic coating


Remind me to know what I'm talking about next time...there's a first time
for everything!

Only a yellow card this time then ..


--
geoff

N. Thornton wrote:

replacement chucks are only a fiver or so, so if it comes to it you
could always saw/angle grind the old one off and replace. They screw
onto a standard thread. But hopefully you should be able to get it off
somehow. Penetrating oil might help, maybe.

They do screw in - but many also have a counter threaded screw that
holds them in place as well (drills with a reverse action would have a
problem without it!). Trickey thing is you get at this screw down the
mouth of the chuck.


--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

Kevin wrote:

Out of interest, how much would it cost to replace a keyless chuck
with a proper chuck, half inch size. It is impossible to use in
hammermode with any drill less than about 7mm dia because you can't do
the chuck up tight enough.
The hammer action drives the drill into the chuck until only an inch
or so protrudes.
I find these chucks absolutely bloody useless. Alternatively I buy a

Time to try a decent keyless chuck I would suggest. Something like a
Rhom with ratchet action - you can get those as tight or tigher than a
conventional keyed chuck.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote in message ...
N. Thornton wrote:

replacement chucks are only a fiver or so, so if it comes to it you
could always saw/angle grind the old one off and replace. They screw
onto a standard thread. But hopefully you should be able to get it off
somehow. Penetrating oil might help, maybe.

They do screw in - but many also have a counter threaded screw that
holds them in place as well (drills with a reverse action would have a
problem without it!). Trickey thing is you get at this screw down the
mouth of the chuck.

i dont think any of that would stop a grinder, if thats whats needed.
Not sure how long itd take though, lot of metal there.

NT

N. Thornton wrote:
John Rumm wrote in message
...
N. Thornton wrote:

replacement chucks are only a fiver or so, so if it comes to it you
could always saw/angle grind the old one off and replace. They screw
onto a standard thread. But hopefully you should be able to get it off
somehow. Penetrating oil might help, maybe.

They do screw in - but many also have a counter threaded screw that
holds them in place as well (drills with a reverse action would have a
problem without it!). Trickey thing is you get at this screw down the
mouth of the chuck.

i dont think any of that would stop a grinder, if thats whats needed.
Not sure how long itd take though, lot of metal there.


To expand on that good advice: if you do decide to go this way, it's
vital to avoid damaging that screw head - even though it does mean
grinding through the whole diameter of the chuck body.

The screw head is countersunk into the rear wall of the chuck; to help
judge how deep that is, probe down between the jaws with a bit of thin
wire. Then start cutting some way further towards the nose of the chuck.
When you break through to the inside, check again that you're going to
miss the rear wall and the screw head.

When you've cut far enough, the drill and pieces of jaws will probably
fall out, so now you can simply remove the screw (clockwise - it may
need a sharp jerk to free it). Then clamp a Mole wrench onto what's left
of the chuck, give it a tap in the opposite direction. The whole thing
will come free, and you've got your drill back.

If you don't already have an angle grinder, this is why you always
needed one ;-)


--
Ian White
Abingdon, England

My extremely cheapo homebase own brand cordless drill has a keyless
chuck, which caught me out when I first bought it.

The chuck has a sleeve, which moves forward and backward, and locks -
i.e. you can't undo the chuck with the sleeve in the locked position.

Could it be something as simple as this?
(although I doubt that Bosch use the same chuck as my made in Taiwan
special..)

In message , Chris
Howard writes
My extremely cheapo homebase own brand cordless drill has a keyless
chuck, which caught me out when I first bought it.

The chuck has a sleeve, which moves forward and backward, and locks -
i.e. you can't undo the chuck with the sleeve in the locked position.

Could it be something as simple as this?

You mean an SDS chuck then ...

(although I doubt that Bosch use the same chuck as my made in Taiwan
special..)

--
geoff

On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:47:21 GMT, raden wrote:


You mean an SDS chuck then ...

Not necessarily - plenty of keyless chucks can lock their adjusting
collar by sliding it. I use a fifteen-year-old Roehm that does this
and is still going strong

--
Smert' spamionam

no it's not an SDS.