Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi,
I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location). However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside. What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if I extended would I need to make any special allowances? Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully received. Regards Robin |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Robin Soper wrote:
I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location). However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside. What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if I extended would I need to make any special allowances? Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully received. Damp proofing may not be required - it all depends. Out 70 year old house, stone walled and rendered, with a cocrete floor inside, has no damp proofing measures (that we've found so far). When we moved in there was a fair bit of damp. But adequate heating and ventilation, as well as fitting gutters and the like has pretty much cured it. So don't worry too much about the damp. As for the services, you don't say how close it is to other properties. This makes a big difference. -- Grunff |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). I might be talking complete b*llocks, but I would expect Granite to be pretty impervious as stonework goes. I'd think your cottage was one big damp proof course! Provided you heat and ventilate the house so that any moisture passing through the mortar is evaporated and expelled, I doubt you'd have a problem. The floor may benefit from a damp proof membrane and insulation, though. Whilst you're there, think about underfloor heating. It would have significant advantages. It is excellent for houses with high thermal mass and means that your traditional cottage is unencumbered by modern looking radiators. Christian. |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Christian McArdle wrote:
I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). I might be talking complete b*llocks, but I would expect Granite to be pretty impervious as stonework goes. I'd think your cottage was one big damp proof course! Provided you heat and ventilate the house so that any moisture passing through the mortar is evaporated and expelled, I doubt you'd have a problem. The floor may benefit from a damp proof membrane and insulation, though. Whilst you're there, think about underfloor heating. It would have significant advantages. It is excellent for houses with high thermal mass and means that your traditional cottage is unencumbered by modern looking radiators. Christian. Good points, and seconded |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Robin Soper wrote:
I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). Was it ever really used as a house, do you know, or is it a building that had another function? I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location). However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside. What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if I extended would I need to make any special allowances? Oooh (sucks teeth) - the bloody pen-pushers will have a field-day. An extension will incorporate a DPC. It is likely to be impractical to put a DPC in the existing structure, the normal method of treatment if required is a vertical bituminous DPC and render ("tanking"). Do not use gypsum plaster. Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully received. Don't think too big! J.B. |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Granite is really cold, a bad insulator. You might consider dry lining
with insulating materials. cheers jacob |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Robin Soper wrote:
Hi, I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location). However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside. What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if I extended would I need to make any special allowances? Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully received. Regards Robin simple question but expect many opinions. Here's one for starters http://www.onthelevel.in-uk.com/damp-proofing.htm Nick |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
The point about gutters is really important. We have a Victorian farmhouse
with a few damp problems. Fixing the gutters, new roof and lead flashing sorted it and we did not carry out the remedial damp course work identified during the survey. Doing sensible things like letting the property breathe can also help - for example mildew can form on the back of fitted carpets on tiled floors due to very slight permeability so we enjoy the tiles instead. If you can manage it, sort the roof and gutters, check the floor and then see what happens to the damp and assess later whether you need to do anything. "Robin Soper" wrote in message m... Hi, I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location). However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside. What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if I extended would I need to make any special allowances? Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully received. Regards Robin |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article , Harry
Ziman writes The point about gutters is really important. We have a Victorian farmhouse with a few damp problems. Fixing the gutters, new roof and lead flashing sorted it and we did not carry out the remedial damp course work identified during the survey. Doing sensible things like letting the property breathe can also help - for example mildew can form on the back of fitted carpets on tiled floors due to very slight permeability so we enjoy the tiles instead. Many older buildings have stone drains, formed by putting flat stones on edge a few inches in from the footings, and can be found both inside and out. These drain water away from the footings, and help to keep them dry(er). Over the years they fill with silt. Often this can be jetted out by poking a hosepipe in one end. Its amazing how a damp wall can be dried out by cleaning the stone drain, and applying a little heat and ventilation. J. -- John Rouse |
#10
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Robin Soper" wrote
| I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a | derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has | a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & Get an experienced local conveyancing solicitor to check the boundaries and access permissions - very thoroughly. | also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). How close are they? Electricity can usually be brought in at a price, wells or boreholes can do water, but sewerage can be a pain. Stronger environmental regulations mean that septic tanks are now unacceptable in many locations. If you need to have klargester on or discharging onto a neighbour's land, check access permissions. Owain |
#11
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Owain wrote:
"Robin Soper" wrote | I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a | derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has | a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & Get an experienced local conveyancing solicitor to check the boundaries and access permissions - very thoroughly. | also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). How close are they? Electricity can usually be brought in at a price, wells or boreholes can do water, but sewerage can be a pain. Stronger environmental regulations mean that septic tanks are now unacceptable in many locations. If you need to have klargester on or discharging onto a neighbour's land, check access permissions. Klargester at 5-10 grand installed is street legal for pretty much any location these days. You can dump outflow into a stream or soakaway directly. BUT it needs electrickery to work. Expect around 5 grand a METER to install that, from nearest power 11kv point,if it has to go underground. Dunno about water either. Sometimes borehlles and punmps (need electrickery again) will suffice. Owain |
#12
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Robin Soper wrote:
Hi, I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty). I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location). However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside. What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if I extended would I need to make any special allowances? Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully received. The helth and safety nazis will not let you live in it until it has water, sewage and probably at least some form of power. Laying these on may be the major costs. Check that out first. The rest is all easy stuff conecptually. Regards Robin |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Granite worktop span | UK diy | |||
Sheeting-out prior to fitting Granite Work Tops | UK diy | |||
Kitchen Floor Units and Granite - Secure before template ? | UK diy | |||
Granite sinks - OK | UK diy |