Hi,

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and
external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location).
However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to
have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime
mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside.

What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if
I extended would I need to make any special allowances?

Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully
received.

Regards
Robin

Robin Soper wrote:

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and
external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location).
However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to
have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime
mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside.

What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if
I extended would I need to make any special allowances?

Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully
received.

Damp proofing may not be required - it all depends. Out 70 year old
house, stone walled and rendered, with a cocrete floor inside, has no
damp proofing measures (that we've found so far).

When we moved in there was a fair bit of damp. But adequate heating and
ventilation, as well as fitting gutters and the like has pretty much
cured it.

So don't worry too much about the damp.

As for the services, you don't say how close it is to other properties.
This makes a big difference.

--
Grunff

Robin Soper wrote:
Hi,

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and
external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location).
However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to
have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime
mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside.

What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if
I extended would I need to make any special allowances?

Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully
received.

Regards
Robin
simple question but expect many opinions. Here's one for starters

http://www.onthelevel.in-uk.com/damp-proofing.htm

Nick

The point about gutters is really important. We have a Victorian farmhouse
with a few damp problems. Fixing the gutters, new roof and lead flashing
sorted it and we did not carry out the remedial damp course work identified
during the survey. Doing sensible things like letting the property breathe
can also help - for example mildew can form on the back of fitted carpets on
tiled floors due to very slight permeability so we enjoy the tiles instead.

If you can manage it, sort the roof and gutters, check the floor and then
see what happens to the damp and assess later whether you need to do
anything.
"Robin Soper" wrote in message
m...
Hi,

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and
external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location).
However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to
have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime
mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside.

What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if
I extended would I need to make any special allowances?

Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully
received.

Regards
Robin

"Robin Soper" wrote
| I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a
| derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has
| a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors &

Get an experienced local conveyancing solicitor to check the boundaries and
access permissions - very thoroughly.

| also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

How close are they? Electricity can usually be brought in at a price, wells
or boreholes can do water, but sewerage can be a pain. Stronger
environmental regulations mean that septic tanks are now unacceptable in
many locations. If you need to have klargester on or discharging onto a
neighbour's land, check access permissions.

Owain

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof
and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

I might be talking complete b*llocks, but I would expect Granite to be
pretty impervious as stonework goes. I'd think your cottage was one big damp
proof course!

Provided you heat and ventilate the house so that any moisture passing
through the mortar is evaporated and expelled, I doubt you'd have a problem.
The floor may benefit from a damp proof membrane and insulation, though.
Whilst you're there, think about underfloor heating. It would have
significant advantages. It is excellent for houses with high thermal mass
and means that your traditional cottage is unencumbered by modern looking
radiators.

Christian.

Robin Soper wrote:

Hi,

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and
external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location).
However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to
have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime
mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside.

What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if
I extended would I need to make any special allowances?

Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully
received.



The helth and safety nazis will not let you live in it until it has
water, sewage and probably at least some form of power. Laying these on
may be the major costs.

Check that out first. The rest is all easy stuff conecptually.


Regards
Robin

Owain wrote:

"Robin Soper" wrote
| I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a
| derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has
| a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors &

Get an experienced local conveyancing solicitor to check the boundaries and
access permissions - very thoroughly.

| also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

How close are they? Electricity can usually be brought in at a price, wells
or boreholes can do water, but sewerage can be a pain. Stronger
environmental regulations mean that septic tanks are now unacceptable in
many locations. If you need to have klargester on or discharging onto a
neighbour's land, check access permissions.


Klargester at 5-10 grand installed is street legal for pretty much any
location these days. You can dump outflow into a stream or soakaway
directly.

BUT it needs electrickery to work.

Expect around 5 grand a METER to install that, from nearest power 11kv
point,if it has to go underground.

Dunno about water either. Sometimes borehlles and punmps (need
electrickery again) will suffice.




Owain

Christian McArdle wrote:

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof
and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).


I might be talking complete b*llocks, but I would expect Granite to be
pretty impervious as stonework goes. I'd think your cottage was one big damp
proof course!

Provided you heat and ventilate the house so that any moisture passing
through the mortar is evaporated and expelled, I doubt you'd have a problem.
The floor may benefit from a damp proof membrane and insulation, though.
Whilst you're there, think about underfloor heating. It would have
significant advantages. It is excellent for houses with high thermal mass
and means that your traditional cottage is unencumbered by modern looking
radiators.

Christian.





Good points, and seconded

Robin Soper wrote:
I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict
cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and
external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services
whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

Was it ever really used as a house, do you know, or is it a building
that had another function?


I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location).
However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to
have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime
mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside.

What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if
I extended would I need to make any special allowances?

Oooh (sucks teeth) - the bloody pen-pushers will have a field-day. An
extension will incorporate a DPC. It is likely to be impractical to
put a DPC in the existing structure, the normal method of treatment
if required is a vertical bituminous DPC and render ("tanking"). Do
not use gypsum plaster.


Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully
received.

Don't think too big!


J.B.

In article , Harry
Ziman writes
The point about gutters is really important. We have a Victorian farmhouse
with a few damp problems. Fixing the gutters, new roof and lead flashing
sorted it and we did not carry out the remedial damp course work identified
during the survey. Doing sensible things like letting the property breathe
can also help - for example mildew can form on the back of fitted carpets on
tiled floors due to very slight permeability so we enjoy the tiles instead.

Many older buildings have stone drains, formed by putting flat stones on
edge a few inches in from the footings, and can be found both inside and
out. These drain water away from the footings, and help to keep them
dry(er). Over the years they fill with silt. Often this can be jetted
out by poking a hosepipe in one end. Its amazing how a damp wall can be
dried out by cleaning the stone drain, and applying a little heat and
ventilation.

J.
--
John Rouse

Granite is really cold, a bad insulator. You might consider dry lining
with insulating materials.

cheers

jacob

(jacob) wrote in message . com...
Granite is really cold, a bad insulator. You might consider dry lining
with insulating materials.

cheers

jacob


Thanks for all the advice, the comments about the DPC are interesting.
Granite is and igneous rock which I think means it is water proof, the
mortar is not but as pointed out evaporation from old sandy lime
mortar would probably take care of this. Anyway of to investigate
costs of getting services put in!

Regards
Robin

(jacob) wrote in message . com...
Granite is really cold, a bad insulator. You might consider dry lining
with insulating materials.

cheers

jacob


Thanks for all the advice, the comments about the DPC are interesting.
Granite is an igneous rock which I think means it is water proof, the
mortar is not but as pointed out evaporation from old sandy lime
mortar would probably take care of this. Anyway off to investigate
costs of getting services put in!

Regards
Robin

(Robin Soper) wrote in message . com...

mortar would probably take care of this. Anyway off to investigate
costs of getting services put in!

call them and ask??

Regards, NT

jacob wrote:

Granite is really cold, a bad insulator. You might consider dry lining
with insulating materials.



Some time ago we worked out that the U value of a meter of Norman castle
wall met current building regs on U values :-)

Just make it thicker!


cheers

jacob

(Robin Soper) wrote in message . com...
(jacob) wrote in message . com...
Granite is really cold, a bad insulator. You might consider dry lining
with insulating materials.

cheers

jacob


Thanks for all the advice, the comments about the DPC are interesting.
Granite is an igneous rock which I think means it is water proof, the
mortar is not but as pointed out evaporation from old sandy lime
mortar would probably take care of this. Anyway off to investigate
costs of getting services put in!

Regards
Robin

Depending on where your granite cottage is, it might be worth getting
it checked for radon during your investigations. Combination of some
small and fairly well defined areas of GB plus granite construction
can be iffy. If it is a problem (unlikely but possible) then measures
to minimise it are a potential additional cost as well as beign a good
reason not to over insulate.

fiona