Well that was a duh! moment...

I was removing some fence posts where they were set in metpost style
sockets, but the whole socket was buried well below ground level
surrounded by concrete. So I drilled a 32mm hole though the post,
inserted my big f'off 6' long crowbar though it, and setup a pair of 2
tonne trolley jacks either side. Pumping them both, it was possible
(just) to jack the post out of the ground.

So charged with that success, I though I can use a variation on the
technique to push a leaning wall straight as well. Then found that my
trolley jacks don't actually work when they are laying on their sides!

(had to resort to a more medieval solution using 3m fence posts dug into
the ground at one end, leant at an angle just off the perpendicular to
the wall, and a sliding pad. Then using a sledge hammer to tap the post
down the pads little by little - that worked a treat)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 07/07/20 14:51, John Rumm wrote:

So charged with that success, I though I can use a variation on the
technique to push a leaning wall straight as well. Then found that my
trolley jacks don't actually work when they are laying on their sides!

Not able to use a scissors jack, or not one to hand?

--

Jeff

John Rumm wrote:

So charged with that success, I though I can use a variation on the
technique to push a leaning wall straight as well. Then found that my
trolley jacks don't actually work when they are laying on their sides!

I have inherited a pretty old screw jack, rather like this

https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/727312887/walker-auto-ratchet-and-screw-jack

Which has come in handy once or twice when I have needed a
horizontal push.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
@ChrisJDixon1

Plant amazing Acers.

No wonder they don't use them in space then.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...

Well that was a duh! moment...

I was removing some fence posts where they were set in metpost style
sockets, but the whole socket was buried well below ground level
surrounded by concrete. So I drilled a 32mm hole though the post, inserted
my big f'off 6' long crowbar though it, and setup a pair of 2 tonne
trolley jacks either side. Pumping them both, it was possible (just) to
jack the post out of the ground.

So charged with that success, I though I can use a variation on the
technique to push a leaning wall straight as well. Then found that my
trolley jacks don't actually work when they are laying on their sides!

(had to resort to a more medieval solution using 3m fence posts dug into
the ground at one end, leant at an angle just off the perpendicular to the
wall, and a sliding pad. Then using a sledge hammer to tap the post down
the pads little by little - that worked a treat)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Incidentally, how would you make sure a leaning wall stayed straight, bricks
do not bend but mortar cracks, you might end up with a pile of bricks.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Chris J Dixon" wrote in message
...
John Rumm wrote:

So charged with that success, I though I can use a variation on the
technique to push a leaning wall straight as well. Then found that my
trolley jacks don't actually work when they are laying on their sides!

I have inherited a pretty old screw jack, rather like this

https://www.etsy.com/hk-en/listing/727312887/walker-auto-ratchet-and-screw-jack

Which has come in handy once or twice when I have needed a
horizontal push.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
@ChrisJDixon1

Plant amazing Acers.

John Rumm wrote:

I was removing some fence posts where they were set in metpost style
sockets, but the whole socket was buried well below ground level
surrounded by concrete. So I drilled a 32mm hole though the post,
inserted my big f'off 6' long crowbar though it, and setup a pair of 2
tonne trolley jacks either side. Pumping them both, it was possible
(just) to jack the post out of the ground.

I thought (dodgy?) farm jacks were traditional for that?

On 08/07/2020 10:33, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

I was removing some fence posts where they were set in metpost style
sockets, but the whole socket was buried well below ground level
surrounded by concrete. So I drilled a 32mm hole though the post,
inserted my big f'off 6' long crowbar though it, and setup a pair of 2
tonne trolley jacks either side. Pumping them both, it was possible
(just) to jack the post out of the ground.

I thought (dodgy?) farm jacks were traditional for that?

Nah, farmers all have loaders these days.

It took me a while to get the hang of farm jacks, but I was very glad of
one the other day when I had to get the wheel off a topper.

On 08/07/2020 10:33, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

I was removing some fence posts where they were set in metpost style
sockets, but the whole socket was buried well below ground level
surrounded by concrete. So I drilled a 32mm hole though the post,
inserted my big f'off 6' long crowbar though it, and setup a pair of 2
tonne trolley jacks either side. Pumping them both, it was possible
(just) to jack the post out of the ground.

I thought (dodgy?) farm jacks were traditional for that?

Possibly, but I have not got any of those...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 07/07/2020 18:44, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 07/07/20 14:51, John Rumm wrote:

So charged with that success, I though I can use a variation on the
technique to push a leaning wall straight as well. Then found that my
trolley jacks don't actually work when they are laying on their sides!

Not able to use a scissors jack, or not one to hand?

I suppose I could have got one out of the car, but did not think of that
at the time to be honest.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 08/07/2020 09:17, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:

Incidentally, how would you make sure a leaning wall stayed straight, bricks
do not bend but mortar cracks, you might end up with a pile of bricks.

It was a pile of bricks that started this whole saga... There was a very
tall free standing trellis (about 12') sunk into the inside edge of the
patio, and covered in Ivy and similar plants. A section blew over in a
storm early this year and demolished a section of wall around the patio
- which was a couple of feet of single course retaining wall, and then
another couple of feet of double skin perimeter built on top.

That prompted the brick cleanup exercise:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...tting_sawbench

I rebuilt the fallen section, and noticed that while the remaining bit
of the original wall was in good condition, it was about 2" off plumb at
the top. So I built a buttress flower bed that spanned the old and new.
To support the leaning bit, disguise the transition, and provide
somewhere "safe" for things to grow that will eventually cover the new
trellis that is being erected on the ground *outside* of the patio.

Then I demolished the rest of the hedge / trellis and found that there
was significant damage at the other end that was previously not visible.
The top of the wall had broken away from the return wall that flanked
the steps down to the garden, and the bottom of it had bulged out almost
a brick's width due to pressure from roots. So I had to set about
lifting slabs and excavating on the patio side (had to get the large
concrete breaker out for that!). And spent some time digging out an
extensive root system. In effect I got right down to the base of the
wall on the inside, and removed what had pushed it in the first place.

(The roots were also far too close to the house for my liking)

The bulging bit I then tapped back in with the sledge hammer and a large
plank. Then used fence posts as wedges / supports to push the wall back
upright. On the end where it had broken from the flank wall (which is in
good condition and nice and solid) I drilled through the flank, and
resin bonded some lengths of 12mm threaded rod into the end of the
straightened wall. That in effect pins that end to the return wall. I
then made up a steel plate to go over the ends of the rods as a load
spreader, and did up the nuts. That pulled the joint together on the two
bits of wall. I filled the joint with resin as well - and managed to get
the gap down to about a 1/4" of an inch.

At the base of the wall where the bricks were somewhat broken up by the
root pressure, I made up a couple of 2' lengths of 2" steel flat bar,
drilled in three places. Drilled through the wall and sandwiched the
dodgy section with steel either side. I used threaded rod again, and
left 6" spare on the inside, where I trapped a 2" square of steel at the
ends of the rods between nuts. This is so that when I refill the space
inside with concrete, the steels will end up being locked into the
concrete. I also added a couple of lengths of bar drilled into the
underside of the inner leaf of the wall (which currently floating in
free space with no patio under most of it!), and welded a couple of
short cross pieces on the end. Again once in concrete that will tend to
resist tilt of the top section of wall. Lastly I added rebar around the
point where the concrete will return round the base of the flank wall.
Ultimately this is designed to lock the whole wall against the return,
ans strengthen and support the single skin section at the base.

Once the whole is completely filled in with concrete (part done, but
waiting on a delivery of more ballast), the inner course of bricks will
again be supported on the patio. Hopefully at that point with no roots
trying to push it over it should be stable, and I will juts need to rake
out and re-point and broken / cracked mortar, and I can take out the
supports and turn them back into fence posts!




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/