I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:30:38 UTC+1, wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

You should definitely not be using a heatgun or sander on lead paint. Stick with wet process.

What's well adhered, let it stay. It offers better protection than modern paint anyway.


NT

On 4/7/20 6:30 am, wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.
If you are old do whatever you used to do, if you are young take all
modern precautions.
Most of the problems take a number of years to become evident and will
not be a problem with less years left.

I'd seriously doubt its a real issue unless you are doing it as a career. I
mean loads of us had to do this way back and the lead was not seemingly a
cause of issues for the day er back then.
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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wrote in message
...
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a mask
and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to remove
the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume that I
hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction and lots
of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

Chemicals seemed to work in the old days, unless they too have gone into the
elf and safety bad books.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:30:38 UTC+1, wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

You should definitely not be using a heatgun or sander on lead paint.
Stick with wet process.

What's well adhered, let it stay. It offers better protection than modern
paint anyway.


NT

On 04/07/2020 01:41, wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:30:38 UTC+1, wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

You should definitely not be using a heatgun or sander on lead paint. Stick with wet process.

What's well adhered, let it stay. It offers better protection than modern paint anyway.


NT

I've had the chance now to look at guidance from several government
bodies and it seems that the critical temperature to stay below is 600C,
although some guidance recommends staying below 200C. Based on this I
don't see what's wrong with using a hot air gun, but mine is ancient so
I've ordered one with temperature control.

Painting-over isn't an option when that's been done many times before.

On 04/07/2020 05:05, F Murtz wrote:
On 4/7/20 6:30 am, wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten
oak and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping
and repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how
to remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I
assume that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust
extraction and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in
the know.
If you are old do whatever you used to do, if you are young take all
modern precautions.
Most of the problems take a number of years to become evident and will
not be a problem with less years left.

I would deny being "old" (and will until my last day ;-) ) but I admit
to not being "young". It seems that a temperature-controlled hot air gun
is the answer so I'll be replacing my ancient one - a new toy!

On 03/07/2020 21:30, wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

I think by the 1930's the risks were very much reduced by changes in
formulation.

From Wikipedia (there is more):

The dangers of lead paint were considered well-established by the
beginning of the 20th century. In the July 1904 edition of its monthly
publication, Sherwin-Williams reported the dangers of paint containing
lead, noting that a French expert had deemed lead paint "poisonous in a
large degree, both for the workmen and for the inhabitants of a house
painted with lead colors".[5] As early as 1886, German health laws
prohibited women and children from working in factories processing lead
paint and lead sugar.[6] In 1786, Benjamin Franklin wrote a letter
warning a friend about the hazards of lead and lead paint, which he
considered well-established.[7]

The League of Nations began efforts to ban lead paint in 1921

On 04/07/2020 10:51:33, wrote:
On 04/07/2020 01:41, wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:30:38 UTC+1, Â* wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

You should definitely not be using a heatgun or sander on lead paint.
Stick with wet process.

What's well adhered, let it stay. It offers better protection than
modern paint anyway.


NT

I've had the chance now to look at guidance from several government
bodies and it seems that the critical temperature to stay below is 600C,
although some guidance recommends staying below 200C. Based on this I
don't see what's wrong with using a hot air gun, but mine is ancient so
I've ordered one with temperature control.

Painting-over isn't an option when that's been done many times before.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_...nts_(data_page)
or even:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead

Suggests the vapour pressure is very low for temperatures below 700C.

On 04/07/2020 15:04, Fredxx wrote:
On 04/07/2020 10:51:33, wrote:
On 04/07/2020 01:41, wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:30:38 UTC+1, Â* wrote:
I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust
extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

You should definitely not be using a heatgun or sander on lead paint.
Stick with wet process.

What's well adhered, let it stay. It offers better protection than
modern paint anyway.


NT

I've had the chance now to look at guidance from several government
bodies and it seems that the critical temperature to stay below is
600C, although some guidance recommends staying below 200C. Based on
this I don't see what's wrong with using a hot air gun, but mine is
ancient so I've ordered one with temperature control.

Painting-over isn't an option when that's been done many times before.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_...nts_(data_page)
or even:
Â* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead

Suggests the vapour pressure is very low for temperatures below 700C.
Thanks, I hadn't thought to go back to first principles but this
confirms what I'd found elsewhere. Any concerns I might have had have
been assuaged - possibly made better by a trip to the pub! ;-)

On Saturday, 4 July 2020 10:51:38 UTC+1, wrote:
On 04/07/2020 01:41, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 3 July 2020 21:30:38 UTC+1, wrote:

I've spent the last couple of days cutting-out and replacing rotten oak
and pitch pine from a large window frame, which means stripping and
repainting the whole thing. The house is 1930s so underneath the
modern'ish paint is lead-based paint - confirmed by the stickyness and
then the hard residue when I started stripping with a hot air gun.
I haven't had to strip lead-based paint before but I assume I wear a
mask and make sure not to burn the paint. The question really is how to
remove the hard residue, preferably without chemical stripper. I assume
that I hot scrape as much as possible and then sand with dust extraction
and lots of ventilation, but await guidance from anyone in the know.

You should definitely not be using a heatgun or sander on lead paint. Stick with wet process.

What's well adhered, let it stay. It offers better protection than modern paint anyway.


NT

I've had the chance now to look at guidance from several government
bodies and it seems that the critical temperature to stay below is 600C,
although some guidance recommends staying below 200C. Based on this I
don't see what's wrong with using a hot air gun, but mine is ancient so
I've ordered one with temperature control.

Painting-over isn't an option when that's been done many times before.

How that will stop paint powder being blown into the air I can't imagine.


NT