Hi All
at last, I have had good success with a 'must get round to it'
project... now seeking help with the next steps.

We have a uPVC Kitchen window which wouldn't open - I thought the rods had got
jammed, which I have seen before. In order to 'jemmy' it open, I knew that it
was best to remove the glazing, but was a bit nervous about doing this.

Anyway, prompted by the weather I finally got around to this yesterday, and the
work went well. Because it is an externally beaded unit I had to cut the
security foam, which was a bit of a faff. But removing the beading went OK,
and after I deglazed the window I was able to lift and open the frame.

I now think that the rods were OK, but that the window had dropped
slightly. Regardless, I have given it all a good clean and grease, and re-
adjusted the rods. The glazing is now back in temporarily whilst I wait for
replacement security foam, but the window is working better than it has
ever done ;-).

I am now looking for tips on how to do a final refit when the tape arrives. I
have two main questions but would be pleased to hear other tips:

1) how to deal with the stickiness of the security tape, giving me only one
chance to fit. I have read a bit about using a solution of washing up liquid,
to avoid initial grab. Is this the current way to approach things?

2) related really - heel and toe-ing when fitting with the tape. Would
the panel suggest putting packing pieces in first, then putting the glazing in,
or (say) put the glazing in, then slide it around to fit the packing pieces?

2a) more on heel and toeing. I've read that you just fit the glazing unit 'dry',
then measure the gap, halve them and use that to decide what size packing pieces
to use. In my 'dry fit', I started off with what was there originally, and then
fitted the glazing, but then stressed the frame upwards a little and added a
little more packing appropriately. This seems sensible to me - any comments?

Thanks for any hints/tips/comments

Jon N