The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W

TimW Wrote in message:
The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W


All seems to flake off exterior walls to me... & once you start
with masonry paint (on an exterior of a house) "what you gonna
do?" except keep painting over it....hmmm
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

TimW was thinking very hard :
The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I thought
I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp coming up from
the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do limewash you can
paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that it's breathable and won't
peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?

The faces of some rustic faced bricks, surrounding my front door
(outside), I had the faces blow of the two courses at the very bottom.
I spent quite a long time wondering how to repair these and finally
settled on making good the damaged faces with sand and cement. All of
the faces of the bricks around the door were likewise, quite delicate,
though only the bottom ones were actually blown. I settled on painting
them with exterior masonry paint, working it well into the brick faces.

That was several years ago and it has worked absolutely fine. It has
acted as a sort of glue, to reinforce the loose brick surfaces and
prevent further weather damage. This year I spotted two 1" square
sections where the paint had lifted, so I patched them.

The door faces west and gets the very worst of the sun and rain,
indoors it should last much longer.

On 18/06/2020 23:02, Jimk wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W


All seems to flake off exterior walls to me... & once you start
with masonry paint (on an exterior of a house) "what you gonna
do?" except keep painting over it....hmmm

It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need
to put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and cleanish.

TW

TimW Wrote in message:
On 18/06/2020 23:02, Jimk wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W


All seems to flake off exterior walls to me... & once you start
with masonry paint (on an exterior of a house) "what you gonna
do?" except keep painting over it....hmmm

It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need
to put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and cleanish.

TW


It may be the inside of a damp wall so my comments may still
apply... "sealing" is probably going to be impossible unless it's
cavity walled & dpc'd ?

YMMV
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

on 19/06/2020, TimW supposed :
It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need to
put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and cleanish.

I thin watery coat of Thistle plaster will help stabilise the surface,
applied with a large brush.

Usually looks like dandruff after a couple of years. I wonder if that wall
coat we had put on our walls might be a solution but the prep is a bit of a
pig, with some kind of sealant then undercoat then the plastic coating. It
has been very good, I have to say.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Jimk" wrote in message
o.uk...
TimW Wrote in message:
The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W


All seems to flake off exterior walls to me... & once you start
with masonry paint (on an exterior of a house) "what you gonna
do?" except keep painting over it....hmmm
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Friday, 19 June 2020 10:28:25 UTC+1, TimW wrote:
On 18/06/2020 23:02, Jimk wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:

The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W


All seems to flake off exterior walls to me... & once you start
with masonry paint (on an exterior of a house) "what you gonna
do?" except keep painting over it....hmmm

It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need
to put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and cleanish.

TW

Painting it with lime would sort that just fine. It's way more breathable than masonry paint. Just mix builder's lime with water to make paste, dilute 50/50 and paint on. Don't try to overthicken it to compensate for its thin appearance, it bodies up twice during drying & curing.

You talk of breathable and sealing, the 2 are of course opposites. If a wall is damp, sealing it will make the damp worse.


NT

On 20/06/2020 15:10, wrote:
On Friday, 19 June 2020 10:28:25 UTC+1, TimW wrote:
On 18/06/2020 23:02, Jimk wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:

The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W


All seems to flake off exterior walls to me... & once you start
with masonry paint (on an exterior of a house) "what you gonna
do?" except keep painting over it....hmmm

It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need
to put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and cleanish.

TW

Painting it with lime would sort that just fine. It's way more breathable than masonry paint. Just mix builder's lime with water to make paste, dilute 50/50 and paint on. Don't try to overthicken it to compensate for its thin appearance, it bodies up twice during drying & curing.

You talk of breathable and sealing, the 2 are of course opposites. If a wall is damp, sealing it will make the damp worse.


Is this 'builders lime' ? It doesn't say to paint it on.
https://www.diy.com/departments/blue...g/35712_BQ.prd
TW

On 20/06/2020 16:08, TimW wrote:
On 20/06/2020 15:10, wrote:
On Friday, 19 June 2020 10:28:25 UTC+1, TimWÂ* wrote:

It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need
to put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and
cleanish.

TW

Painting it with lime would sort that just fine. It's way more
breathable than masonry paint. Just mix builder's lime with water to
make paste, dilute 50/50 and paint on. Don't try to overthicken it to
compensate for its thin appearance, it bodies up twice during drying &
curing.

You talk of breathable and sealing, the 2 are of course opposites. If
a wall is damp, sealing it will make the damp worse.


Is this 'builders lime' ? It doesn't say to paint it on.
https://www.diy.com/departments/blue...g/35712_BQ.prd


For painting with lime see:

http://roseofjericho.co.uk/technical...e-of-limewash/


and


http://roseofjericho.co.uk/technical...d-distemper-2/

Limewash and Distemper are vapour permeable and allow the building to
€˜breathe and are therefore suitable for use in traditional buildings,
and particularly appropriate for the decoration of porous building
materials €“ lime plasters and renders, limestone, soft brick, cobs and
daubs.

When properly applied to appropriate surfaces, they do not dry with a
powdery finish and do not readily brush off on clothes.

Traditional paints are made with natural sustainable ingredients and are
environmentally friendly products containing no VOCs, lead, or
petrochemical based ingredients.

Limewashes are used both internally and externally. When used
externally, casein or tallow is added to improve the €˜water-shedding
properties. Casein, a natural glue derived from milk, improves adhesion
and Casein Limewash is also used internally on less porous hydraulic
lime plasters and masonry. It is also less likely to rub off than Pure
Limewash. Limewashes can only be applied to previously painted surfaces
if the existing paint is limewash. They should not be applied to
previously distemper or emulsion painted surfaces.

Distempers are matt finish water-based paints for internal use only.
Three types are available €“ Soft Distemper, Casein Distemper, and
Oil-bound Distemper. Soft Distemper is the most permeable of the three
and normally used on ceilings and moulded plasterwork. It is used on
walls, but generally in €˜low-usage areas, as it can be washed off with
a wet sponge. Casein Distemper and Oil-bound Distemper are normally used
on walls as they are more hard-wearing and more difficult to wash off.
Oil-bound Distemper, the least permeable of the three, should not be
applied to new lime plaster as there is a potential reaction between the
linseed oil and uncarbonated alkali lime. Oil-bound Distemper is the
least uniform with the most tonal variation.

Distempers are normally applied to porous building surfaces but will
also adhere to modern gypsum plaster and previously emulsion painted
surfaces.

Limewash, due to the thin consistency, can be €˜messy to apply and
protections must be provided. Face and eye protection and overalls must
be worn and applying limewash to ceilings is particularly hazardous and
for this reason a distemper is often chosen for the decoration of
ceilings. Indeed, many choose to use distemper in preference to limewash
for the internal decoration of walls and ceilings.


--
djc

(–€Ì¿Ä¹Ì¯–€Ì¿ Ì¿)
No low-hanging fruit, just a lot of small berries up a tall tree.

On Saturday, 20 June 2020 16:08:26 UTC+1, TimW wrote:
On 20/06/2020 15:10, tabbypurr:
On Friday, 19 June 2020 10:28:25 UTC+1, TimW wrote:
On 18/06/2020 23:02, Jimk wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:

The same shed I am fixing up. Stone and rubble walls, pretty rough. I
thought I would paint the insides white. Obv there is plenty of damp
coming up from the ground. Someone told me that if you don't want to do
limewash you can paint the inside with exterior masonry paint - that
it's breathable and won't peel off. Is that so? Any exterior paint?
Tim W


All seems to flake off exterior walls to me... & once you start
with masonry paint (on an exterior of a house) "what you gonna
do?" except keep painting over it....hmmm

It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need
to put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and cleanish.

TW

Painting it with lime would sort that just fine. It's way more breathable than masonry paint. Just mix builder's lime with water to make paste, dilute 50/50 and paint on. Don't try to overthicken it to compensate for its thin appearance, it bodies up twice during drying & curing.

You talk of breathable and sealing, the 2 are of course opposites. If a wall is damp, sealing it will make the damp worse.


Is this 'builders lime' ? It doesn't say to paint it on.
https://www.diy.com/departments/blue...g/35712_BQ.prd
TW

yup. Makes cheap, long lasting & easy to use masonry paint. It's porous so doesn't block evaporation. Only downsides are it's nasty on eyes, don't put one in the other, and being alkaline is not compatible with all pigments.


NT

On Saturday, 20 June 2020 20:11:34 UTC+1, DJC wrote:
On 20/06/2020 16:08, TimW wrote:
On 20/06/2020 15:10, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 19 June 2020 10:28:25 UTC+1, TimWÂ* wrote:

It's inside. It's all dusty, crumbly, spidery mortar and stone so I need
to put some kind of coating / seal over it and make it nice and
cleanish.

TW

Painting it with lime would sort that just fine. It's way more
breathable than masonry paint. Just mix builder's lime with water to
make paste, dilute 50/50 and paint on. Don't try to overthicken it to
compensate for its thin appearance, it bodies up twice during drying &
curing.

You talk of breathable and sealing, the 2 are of course opposites. If
a wall is damp, sealing it will make the damp worse.


Is this 'builders lime' ? It doesn't say to paint it on.
https://www.diy.com/departments/blue...g/35712_BQ.prd


For painting with lime see:

http://roseofjericho.co.uk/technical...e-of-limewash/


and


http://roseofjericho.co.uk/technical...d-distemper-2/

Limewash and Distemper are vapour permeable and allow the building to
€˜breathe and are therefore suitable for use in traditional buildings,
and particularly appropriate for the decoration of porous building
materials €“ lime plasters and renders, limestone, soft brick, cobs and
daubs.

When properly applied to appropriate surfaces, they do not dry with a
powdery finish and do not readily brush off on clothes.

Traditional paints are made with natural sustainable ingredients and are
environmentally friendly products containing no VOCs, lead, or
petrochemical based ingredients.

Limewashes are used both internally and externally. When used
externally, casein or tallow is added to improve the €˜water-shedding
properties. Casein, a natural glue derived from milk, improves adhesion
and Casein Limewash is also used internally on less porous hydraulic
lime plasters and masonry. It is also less likely to rub off than Pure
Limewash. Limewashes can only be applied to previously painted surfaces
if the existing paint is limewash. They should not be applied to
previously distemper or emulsion painted surfaces.

Distempers are matt finish water-based paints for internal use only.
Three types are available €“ Soft Distemper, Casein Distemper, and
Oil-bound Distemper. Soft Distemper is the most permeable of the three
and normally used on ceilings and moulded plasterwork. It is used on
walls, but generally in €˜low-usage areas, as it can be washed off with
a wet sponge. Casein Distemper and Oil-bound Distemper are normally used
on walls as they are more hard-wearing and more difficult to wash off.
Oil-bound Distemper, the least permeable of the three, should not be
applied to new lime plaster as there is a potential reaction between the
linseed oil and uncarbonated alkali lime. Oil-bound Distemper is the
least uniform with the most tonal variation.

Distempers are normally applied to porous building surfaces but will
also adhere to modern gypsum plaster and previously emulsion painted
surfaces.

Limewash, due to the thin consistency, can be €˜messy to apply and
protections must be provided. Face and eye protection and overalls must
be worn and applying limewash to ceilings is particularly hazardous and
for this reason a distemper is often chosen for the decoration of
ceilings. Indeed, many choose to use distemper in preference to limewash
for the internal decoration of walls and ceilings.

There are a lot of lime based paint formulae/types. I wouldn't recommend those personally. Both are bonded by water soluble glue, not ideal for a damp surface.


NT