Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

On 24/04/2020 13:41, John wrote:
Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

yes. If not use plumbers wrench or moles to free it up. If it doesnt
free up you need a new body as well as the motor


--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 24/04/2020 13:49:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 24/04/2020 13:41, John wrote:
Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

yes.Â* If not use plumbers wrench or moles to free it up. If it doesnt
free up you need a new body as well as the motor

The motor might well be fine, though purchasing a complete valve
body/motor generally makes economic sense.

John has brought this to us :
Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Yes, the D should be almost able to be turned with your bare fingers.
Be aware that some valve are only designed to be rotated in one
direction - the motor turns them through a full 360 degrees to get to
the position needed. The other version only rotates back and forth
through 180 deg.

It happens that Fredxx formulated :
The motor might well be fine, though purchasing a complete valve body/motor
generally makes economic sense.

Them failing in some way, became almost an annual task here of the
spring return variety. In 40 years I have only had two motors fail,
more often its microswitch, or plastic body/ rotor jamming failures. I
have since changed to a type of 3 port valve which doesn't use a
spring, rather it rotates in just one direction to position.

The design seems much more sensible and under much less mechanical
stress and so likely to have a much longer service life. None the less,
I have a spare valve head in a box next to it, ready to pop on - just
in case.

The Natural Philosopher wrote in news:r7un9g$h5s$2
@dont-email.me:

On 24/04/2020 13:41, John wrote:
Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

yes. If not use plumbers wrench or moles to free it up. If it doesnt
free up you need a new body as well as the motor



Approx how many degrees each side of centre should it turn? Drayton

On Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:41:59 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:

Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Rotate, as in 360 Degrees? No. Rotate a few degrees either way and
with your fingers, yes (or the one I last played with you could).

Imagine that inside there is a hard rubber ball on a short stick
connected to the spindle. Basically you can only move the ball between
the two internal openings of the two outlets (where the rubber ball
seals them off).

Cheers, T i m

On 24/04/2020 14:26, John wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote in news:r7un9g$h5s$2
@dont-email.me:

On 24/04/2020 13:41, John wrote:
Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

yes. If not use plumbers wrench or moles to free it up. If it doesnt
free up you need a new body as well as the motor



Approx how many degrees each side of centre should it turn? Drayton

My 'one ways' are 90 deg. I guess a three way is 180 in all. Someone
else knows better


--
Labour - a bunch of rich people convincing poor people to vote for rich
people by telling poor people that "other" rich people are the reason
they are poor.

Peter Thompson

On 24/04/2020 14:32:19, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:41:59 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:

Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Rotate, as in 360 Degrees? No. Rotate a few degrees either way and
with your fingers, yes (or the one I last played with you could).

Imagine that inside there is a hard rubber ball on a short stick
connected to the spindle. Basically you can only move the ball between
the two internal openings of the two outlets (where the rubber ball
seals them off).

A Drayton one I changed recently moved ~20 degrees. This used a disc of
rubber to cover and uncover ports.

John submitted this idea :
Approx how many degrees each side of centre should it turn? Drayton

They can normally spun all the way round.

Harry Bloomfield, Esq. was thinking very hard :
They can normally spun all the way round.

Just the lose valve spindle that is, the head will turn it maybe 110
degrees or so.

Fredxx presented the following explanation :
A Drayton one I changed recently moved ~20 degrees. This used a disc of
rubber to cover and uncover ports.

Is that a 2-port, or a 3-port?

On 24/04/2020 16:06:58, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Fredxx presented the following explanation :
A Drayton one I changed recently moved ~20 degrees. This used a disc
of rubber to cover and uncover ports.

Is that a 2-port, or a 3-port?

3-port

On 24/04/2020 14:32, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:41:59 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:

Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Rotate, as in 360 Degrees? No. Rotate a few degrees either way and
with your fingers, yes (or the one I last played with you could).

Imagine that inside there is a hard rubber ball on a short stick
connected to the spindle. Basically you can only move the ball between
the two internal openings of the two outlets (where the rubber ball
seals them off).

Cheers, T i m


This was exactly how mine worked. Total shaft movement not more than 20
or 30 degs.

Here is an image of the insides

http://www.freeheatingadvice.com/wp-...valve_ball.jpg

--
Chris B (News)

On 24/04/2020 16:39, Chris B wrote:
On 24/04/2020 14:32, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:41:59 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:

Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Rotate, as in 360 Degrees? No. Rotate a few degrees either way and
with your fingers, yes (or the one I last played with you could).

Imagine that inside there is a hard rubber ball on a short stick
connected to the spindle. Basically you can only move the ball between
the two internal openings of the two outlets (where the rubber ball
seals them off).

Cheers, T i m


This was exactly how mine worked.Â* Total shaft movement not more than 20
or 30 degs.

Here is an image of the insides

http://www.freeheatingadvice.com/wp-...valve_ball.jpg


Indeed you may find some useful info towards the bottom of the page that
picture comes from

http://www.freeheatingadvice.com/art...-valve-faults/

--
Chris B (News)

On 24/04/2020 16:06:58, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Fredxx presented the following explanation :
A Drayton one I changed recently moved ~20 degrees. This used a disc
of rubber to cover and uncover ports.

Is that a 2-port, or a 3-port?

https://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/si...%20Guide_0.pdf

This gives a (poor) diagram of wedged shaped piece of rubber that
prides a flat surface to seal each port. This 'wedge' is on an arm and
perhaps the detail of the wedge indicates the lack of movement for all
three positions (assuming a mid-position valve).

On 24/04/2020 14:10, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Fredxx formulated :
The motor might well be fine, though purchasing a complete valve body/motor generally makes economic sense.

Them failing in some way, became almost an annual task here of the spring return variety. In 40 years I have only had two motors fail, more often its microswitch, or plastic body/ rotor jamming failures. I have since changed to a type of 3 port valve which doesn't use a spring, rather it rotates in just one direction to position.

The design seems much more sensible and under much less mechanical stress and so likely to have a much longer service life. None the less, I have a spare valve head in a box next to it, ready to pop on - just in case.

What brand is that? Not in need of a replacement yet, but agree that don't last all that long.

--
Clive Page

Clive Page presented the following explanation :
On 24/04/2020 14:10, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Fredxx formulated :
The motor might well be fine, though purchasing a complete valve
body/motor generally makes economic sense.

Them failing in some way, became almost an annual task here of the spring
return variety. In 40 years I have only had two motors fail, more often its
microswitch, or plastic body/ rotor jamming failures. I have since changed
to a type of 3 port valve which doesn't use a spring, rather it rotates in
just one direction to position.

The design seems much more sensible and under much less mechanical stress
and so likely to have a much longer service life. None the less, I have a
spare valve head in a box next to it, ready to pop on - just in case.

What brand is that? Not in need of a replacement yet, but agree that don't
last all that long.

The general type is called a MOMO actuator - Motor On, Motor Off. I was
so fed up with the spring return design of 3-port actuator failing, I
had decided I ought to attempt a design of my own, then I came across
the Sunvic 1901 MoMo valve and actuator.

It was electrically a rather clever design, which was a direct
electrical swap for my spring return Sunvic valve, but I had to swap
the valve and actuator over to the 1901 as a pair. Old valve is
designed to work back and forth, through limited degrees. 1901 valve is
designed to rotate only clockwise to position.

It's one flaw, seems to be it is susceptible to water damage, unless
mounted actuator uppermost. Because it may have turn the valve through
almost 360 degrees to position, it can take it an extra minute to fire
the boiler on a change in demand, but it consumes almost no current to
maintaining position. None the less, I keep a spare 1901 actuator ready
to just fit.

This site is worth a read -
http://www.seered.co.uk/sunvic_unishare_waterdamage.htm

On Friday, 24 April 2020 13:42:01 UTC+1, John wrote:
Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Yup. If it won't move you'll need a new baseplate or body, depending on how yours is put together.


NT

On Sun, 26 Apr 2020 05:02:17 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 24 April 2020 13:42:01 UTC+1, John wrote:
Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Yup. If it won't move you'll need a new baseplate or body, depending on how yours is put together.


I believe the spindle on the Honeywell 3-Way valves is sealed with an
'O' ring and retained by a clip so could be stripped, cleaned and
lubed (silicone grease?).

I've done that sort of thing loads of times, just to get something
fixed 'for now' and it's still been working years later.

Cheers, T i m

On Sunday, 26 April 2020 13:53:46 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 26 Apr 2020 05:02:17 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 24 April 2020 13:42:01 UTC+1, John wrote:

Mate has removed motor - should he be able to rotate the valve mechanism
quite easily?

Yup. If it won't move you'll need a new baseplate or body, depending on how yours is put together.


I believe the spindle on the Honeywell 3-Way valves is sealed with an
'O' ring and retained by a clip so could be stripped, cleaned and
lubed (silicone grease?).

I've done that sort of thing loads of times, just to get something
fixed 'for now' and it's still been working years later.

Cheers, T i m

I believed that too until I removed the circlip. It still doesn't come out, and I didn't see any way to readily remove the spindle. Unnecessary obsolescence.

I wish it were practical to discourage that sort of unnecessary destructive business strategy, but I don't see how. Perhaps some sort of kitemark that indicates a product can be completely stripped down without significant destruction?


NT