I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.

On 13/04/2020 12:03:11, R D S wrote:
I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.

I have a template to assist the mating of worktops with a router. I now
wouldn't do it any other way.

I guess if you use mastic to hide the cut edge then either way, but cut
with the saw from the bottom to keep the top surface intact.

On Mon, 13 Apr 2020 12:03:11 +0100, R D S wrote:

I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.


I have successfully used a handsaw in the past, on a couple of tresles,
but it was separate from any attachments.

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:
I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.


I posted about this a few months ago. Including which blades I used and
which way up I had the worktop.

If only I were better at searching.

On 13/04/2020 12:13, GB wrote:
On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:
I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure
at the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it
went well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a
bit of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it
is in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to
be mint.


I posted about this a few months ago. Including which blades I used and
which way up I had the worktop.

If only I were better at searching.


Good grief! I found it.

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/uk.d...c/agp9NVnCAgAJ

Bosch 101B jigsaw blade for the sink cut out, btw.

On 13/04/2020 12:20, GB wrote:


Good grief! I found it.

Well done, I couldn't but I was searching on my own messages and they
only go back to September!


https://groups.google.com/d/msg/uk.d...c/agp9NVnCAgAJ


I always forget about Google Groups,
Cheers,

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:
I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.
I have used various saws to rough out followed by a side pass with a
router to get really clean edges.

I am perplexed. in general worktops have 4 edges...or are you saying you
don't need to shape the back?


--
€œThe ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools.€�

Herbert Spencer

I have used various saws to rough out followed by a side pass with a
router to get really clean edges.

+1, although I have a jig for making €œmasons mitres€� up to 900mm wide which can easily be used to produce perpendicular straight cuts in 600mm worktops so I tend to router all the way through.

I am perplexed. in general worktops have 4 edges...or are you saying you
don't need to shape the back?

Last time I was able to scribe the rear of a worktop to a wall was back in the days of imperial sizes. With metric units you have no leeway for scribing without leaving the worktop short at the front. The only way is get an extra wide worktop such as those for breakfast bars and waste a lot of material. Last couple of kitchens I fitted, I tiled the walls and was able to take out any unevenness in the walls using the tiles.

Richard

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:

I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop.

Is this one with a laminate surface?

Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

Jigsaw I would only recommend on laminate for rough cut-outs that won't
be seen (like a hole for a hob or inset basin), or short visible cuts
with a down cut blade (i.e. cuts on the push rather than the pull).

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

If you need to make straight cuts (or even cut-outs), then this is the
way to go.

*HOWEVER* Make sure you cut from the underside - so that the teeth of
the blade arr cutting into the laminate surface and not away from it.
That will prevent chipping. A good sharp TCT cross cut blade is best.

If you must cut from the top surface, then remove the riving knife from
the saw, cut against a guide, start at the far end of the cut and pull
the saw slowly *backwards" through the cut. That way, the teeth of the
blade are still cutting into the laminate surface and not away from it.

(for any sawing operation, you can also pre score the cut with a sharp
knife, and cut with the blade just on the waste side of the score.
Sometimes applying masking tape over the cut line prior to cutting can
further protect the surface)

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for proper
worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting jig to do
those.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.

Circular saw then... unless the wall is wonky and you need to scribe it
to the wall.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/04/2020 15:23, John Rumm wrote:

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for proper
worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting jig to do
those.

I paid the worktop supplier to do the joint, was £40 for a pair, I
haven't seen it yet, they are still wrapped up, but i'm assuming they
can do a better job than me.

On 13 Apr 2020 at 15:23:21 BST, "John Rumm"
wrote:

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:

snip
I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for proper
worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting jig to do
those.


How would you rate a biscuit joint as a second best?

One of the few things I've paid somebody to do - and he just glued 2 flat
edges of worktop with a piece of wood screwed underneath the join. Of course,
the join has failed, and I happen to have a biscuit joiner . . .

--
Cheers, Rob

On 13/04/2020 16:09, RJH wrote:
On 13 Apr 2020 at 15:23:21 BST, "John Rumm"
wrote:

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:

snip
I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for proper
worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting jig to do
those.


How would you rate a biscuit joint as a second best?

Its not even an alternative - since a biscuit jointer can't cut a worktop.

For the avoidance of doubt, the worktop jig is a thing like:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-700...ktop-jig/79077

It makes the matching halves of a mason's mitre, also helps cut the
pockets for the fixing clamps[1].

However once the joint is cut, and the rebates on the underside have
been routed, then the biscuit jointer is very useful to help alignment
of the two parts during gluing and clamping.


[1] e.g:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/goodhome-...questid=840632


One of the few things I've paid somebody to do - and he just glued 2 flat
edges of worktop with a piece of wood screwed underneath the join. Of course,
the join has failed, and I happen to have a biscuit joiner . . .

A good worktop join needs several things to work well IMHO:

1) The matching parts need to fit very well with a close joint (Hence
router and jig)
2) The cut ends must be very well sealed prior to assembly (several
coats of SBR or poly varnish applied and allowed to fully cure.
3) You need at least three pockets cut in the underside and the right
clamps/bolts to pull the job together.
4) Biscuit slots and no. 20 biscuits for alignment.
5) Copious amount or glue/sealant (preferably colour matched) in the
joint before its clamped up.

That way it should all stay aligned, be strong, water proof (and not
risk absorbing water and swelling in wet service areas), and be nearly
invisible.




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 13/04/2020 15:41, R D S wrote:
On 13/04/2020 15:23, John Rumm wrote:

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for
proper worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting
jig to do those.

I paid the worktop supplier to do the joint, was £40 for a pair,Â* I
haven't seen it yet, they are still wrapped up, but i'm assuming they
can do a better job than me.

If that requires the worktops to be at a right angles to one another
it'd not be much use here (


And no, I'm not going to try to strip and re-plaster/line the walls to
make them square. I know my place.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 13/04/2020 18:01, Robin wrote:
On 13/04/2020 15:41, R D S wrote:
On 13/04/2020 15:23, John Rumm wrote:

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for
proper worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting
jig to do those.

I paid the worktop supplier to do the joint, was £40 for a pair,Â* I
haven't seen it yet, they are still wrapped up, but i'm assuming they
can do a better job than me.

If that requires the worktops to be at a right angles to one another
it'd not be much use here (


And no, I'm not going to try to strip and re-plaster/line the walls to
make them square. I know my place.


I had a completely bowed wall.
So I put the high level cupboards up using spacers, and used 16mm MDF
sheet below them down to the worktop with a massive gap behind large
enough to take back boxes and cables :-)

--
Karl Marx said religion is the opium of the people.
But Marxism is the crack cocaine.

On 13/04/2020 18:01, Robin wrote:
On 13/04/2020 15:41, R D S wrote:
On 13/04/2020 15:23, John Rumm wrote:

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for
proper worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting
jig to do those.

I paid the worktop supplier to do the joint, was £40 for a pair,Â* I
haven't seen it yet, they are still wrapped up, but i'm assuming they
can do a better job than me.

If that requires the worktops to be at a right angles to one another
it'd not be much use here (


And no, I'm not going to try to strip and re-plaster/line the walls to
make them square. I know my place.


No need to re-plaster, just dig-out the plaster high points so that the
worktop goes in and is near-enough to the wall at the low points. Once
the tiles or upstand are fitted it all gets hidden

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:
I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.

Cutting to length isn't too bad (or reducing the depth)- ie straight
cuts. I've always used a TCT circular saw, face side down, with a bit
of wood clamped to provide a fence for the saw base to slide against.

The first few times I put tape on the cutting line (face side) but I
forgot once and it didn't matter, so I didn't bother since.

I wouldn't do it with an old blade, one that is has seen some use it
fine, but not a knackered one.

Always seal the edges, if moisture gets in, .....

--
https://www.antislavery.org/slavery-...forced-labour/

On 13/04/2020 18:26, wrote:
On 13/04/2020 18:01, Robin wrote:
On 13/04/2020 15:41, R D S wrote:
On 13/04/2020 15:23, John Rumm wrote:

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for
proper worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting
jig to do those.

I paid the worktop supplier to do the joint, was £40 for a pair,Â* I
haven't seen it yet, they are still wrapped up, but i'm assuming they
can do a better job than me.

If that requires the worktops to be at a right angles to one another
it'd not be much use here (


And no, I'm not going to try to strip and re-plaster/line the walls to
make them square. I know my place.


No need to re-plaster, just dig-out the plaster high points so that the
worktop goes in and is near-enough to the wall at the low points. Once
the tiles or upstand are fitted it all gets hidden

It is not a matter of high points; it is a matter of a parallelogram.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Monday, 13 April 2020 17:09:26 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/04/2020 16:09, RJH wrote:
On 13 Apr 2020 at 15:23:21 BST, "John Rumm"
wrote:

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:

snip
I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

Router is the only decent way of of doing a mason's mitre cut for proper
worktop joints. And you will need a suitable worktop cutting jig to do
those.


How would you rate a biscuit joint as a second best?

Its not even an alternative - since a biscuit jointer can't cut a worktop.

It probably could, but no-one would seriously recommend it

I've had triple chip blades clean cut melamine, but a router cuts in a far better direction for this, so would much rather rely on that.

Knobs are generally easy to make using a cut-off screw & a drill as a lathe. Very coarse sandpaper to get the initial shape. Or they can be cut/shaped with a router.


NT

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:
I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?

I do have a router but one of the knobs is broken making using it a bit
of a faff and a wrestle (and I don't know where/what condition it is
in). But if that's the most sensible option i'll find and fettle it.

The edges will be up against a wall and a tall unit so don't need to be
mint.
For straight cuts a sharp fine toothed handsaw.
For cutting holes for hobs etc a jigsaw.

Mike

On 13/04/2020 12:03, R D S wrote:
I can't remember what I used last time to cut a worktop. Pretty sure at
the advice of the local DIY gaff I used a jigsaw and guide and it went
well.

I have a circular saw too, is there a suitable blade for that?


I tried my jigsaw, but even with a guide I couldn't get a straight edge,
the blade was wafting all over the place.

So I used my circular saw with the blade it came with, upside down,
front first, the results were surprisingly good.