blower resistor again...
 

Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:
Is the motor a brushed on, and is it worn or damaged internally? The extra
current spikes from a faulty motor can easily blow fuses., what else
protects the thing if the motor seizes and shorts out the supply, do the
resistors catch fire?
Brian


They are normally thermal fuses, more thermal cut outs really, that don the
reset. They dont tend to respond to short term spikes etc. They are more
for if the motor is jammed - leaves etc- or there isnt enough air flow to
keep things safe, etc.

Resistors tend to be made from non-combustible materials but they can
€˜cook and get hot enough to cause other things to burn, melt etc.

blower resistor again...
 

On 09/03/2020 21:56, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
Is the motor a brushed on, and is it worn or damaged internally? The extra
current spikes from a faulty motor can easily blow fuses., what else
protects the thing if the motor seizes and shorts out the supply, do the
resistors catch fire?
Brian


There is another conventional fuse in circuit.

The thermal fuse is in close proximity to the resistors and if they get
too hot the thermal fuse blows stopping the resistors getting any hotter
by removing th voltage across them

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

blower resistor again...
 

alan_m wrote
John_j wrote

But will melt before the thermal fuse blows.

tin/lead solder will melt at 370C

60/40 melts at 188C
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder#Lead_solder

The thermal fuse will be 150C to 200C lower.

His is 260C, 70C higher.

In normal use fuse will blow long before the solder melts.

Not in this case.

If the solder melts in normal use you will have a greater problem than a
blower motor fault!

Not in this case.

I've used a high power soldering iron to solder to the leads of thermal
fuses without the problem of the fuse blowing.

But in his case it will fall off before the thermal fuse blows
unless he can make it mechanically solid without the solder.

As other have said you can heat shunt the body of the fuse to prevent the
body of it getting too hot

That doesnt help with it falling off before the thermal fuse blows.

but in my experience a 10 second application of a soldering iron to the
fuse lead doesn't result in the body of the fuse getting too hot.

But may do if you chose to use a higher
melting point solder or chose to braze it.

There may be a problem of using a low power soldering iron that has to be
left on the solder joint far too long. Clean up old wires and tin with
fresh solder before making the joint.

Still going to melt before the thermal fuse
blows with normal solder electrical solder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jUaf394WIk

blower resistor again...
 

On 09/03/2020 22:43, Brian Reay wrote:

Resistors tend to be made from non-combustible materials but they can
€˜cook and get hot enough to cause other things to burn, melt etc.



Wirewound resistor on a ceramic core and with a ceramic coating. In the
past I've seen this type running red like a electric bar fire before
going open circuit. In this case the thermal fuse would blow long before
the resistors reached a temperature where they could cause a problem.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

UNBELIEVABLE: It's 09:25 am in Australia and the Senile Ozzietard has been out of Bed and TROLLING for almost SIX HOURS already!!!! LOL
 

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 09:25:00 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH senile asshole's troll****

09:25??? LOL So WHEN do you intend to go back to sleep, you sleepless senile
trolling asshole? NEVER? LOL

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

UNBELIEVABLE: It's 09:53 am in Australia and the Senile Ozzietard has been out of Bed and TROLLING for OVER SIX HOURS already!!!! LOL
 

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 09:53:35 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH troll****

09:53??? You did it again, eh, you sleepless, lonely, senile cretin! LOL

--
Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID:

blower resistor again...
 

"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 09/03/2020 22:43, Brian Reay wrote:

Resistors tend to be made from non-combustible materials but they can
€˜cook and get hot enough to cause other things to burn, melt etc.



Wirewound resistor on a ceramic core and with a ceramic coating. In the
past I've seen this type running red like a electric bar fire before going
open circuit. In this case the thermal fuse would blow long before the
resistors reached a temperature where they could cause a problem.

Dunno, 260C is pretty hot with so much plastic around,

blower resistor again...
 

On 09/03/2020 22:13, alan_m wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:26, Brian Reay wrote:


Even worse, the all kinds of 'cr*p', including leaves, can end up in
the heater. Often, there is space for one in the basic model - they
just don't put the filter(s) in. Worth finding out and inserting.
Helps if someone has Hay Fever as well.

On the one I fixed by replacing the thermal fuse I found the motor shaft
showing some signs of rust so out with the dip stick and one drop of
engine oil was run down the shaft to the bearing.

When I replaced the thermal fuse I cut the wires on the old fuse close
to the body of the fuse. This left enough wire to fold over to make a
mechanical connection to the new fuse leads before soldering.


good tip thanks

blower resistor again...
 

On 09/03/2020 22:35, alan_m wrote:
On 09/03/2020 21:43, John_j wrote:

But will melt before the thermal fuse blows.

tin/lead solder will melt at 370C
The thermal fuse will be 150C to 200C lower.

In normal useÂ* fuse will blow long before the solder melts. If the
solder melts in normal use you will have a greater problem than a blower
motor fault!

I've used a high power soldering iron to solder to the leads of thermal
fuses without the problem of the fuse blowing. As other have said you
can heat shunt the body of the fuse to prevent the body of it getting
too hot but in my experience a 10 second application of a soldering iron
to the fuse lead doesn't result in the body of the fuse getting too hot.
There may be a problem of using a low power soldering iron that has to
be left on the solder joint far too long. Clean up old wires and tin
with fresh solder before making the joint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jUaf394WIk



good tips ...

blower resistor again...
 

On 09/03/2020 18:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Jim GM4DHJ ... submitted this idea :
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

You can short it for a brief test, but it is there to prevent it
overheating and potentially a fire.

No you cannot solder it, the heat would melt the solder.

Some sort of mechanical connection is the only way - tiny nut and bolts,
crimps, or point contact welding.

The thermal fuse I replaced in my resistor pack was around 125C and
worked OK for 5+ years afterwards.

On my resistor pack the fuse was physically around 1cm away from the
resistors with an air gap between


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Lonely Auto-contradicting Psychotic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL
 

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 10:56:02 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Wirewound resistor on a ceramic core and with a ceramic coating. In the
past I've seen this type running red like a electric bar fire before going
open circuit. In this case the thermal fuse would blow long before the
resistors reached a temperature where they could cause a problem.

Dunno, 260C is pretty hot with so much plastic around,

You disagree, AGAIN, auto-contradicting senile asshole?

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

blower resistor again...
 

On 10/03/2020 09:46, alan_m wrote:
On 09/03/2020 18:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Jim GM4DHJ ... submitted this idea :
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

You can short it for a brief test, but it is there to prevent it
overheating and potentially a fire.

No you cannot solder it, the heat would melt the solder.

Some sort of mechanical connection is the only way - tiny nut and
bolts, crimps, or point contact welding.

The thermal fuse I replaced in my resistor pack was around 125C and
worked OK for 5+ years afterwards.

On my resistor pack the fuse was physically around 1cm away from the
resistors with an air gap between


just replaced the thermal fuse with a bit of wire ...all speeds working
again...216c thermal fuse in the post to me...

blower resistor again...
 

On 09/03/2020 21:06, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 21:04, Brian Reay wrote:
Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:29, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it
to 'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while
soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder
is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They
aren't expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the
car. Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one
being the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hee
free flowing.....I like that
no stinking filter....


If you say so.

Of course, there is nothing stopping leaves, seeds etc, getting into the
heater. But you save a few pounds a year.

After all, something caused your current problem.

component old age ,...
bit of wire works fine all speeds working again....