Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
.....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my
problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse
and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my
problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse
and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

On 09/03/2020 17:45, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUNvzyvn8J8

how do you get three speeds out of the resistor pack if the left is
common and only the the two centre connectors gave a resistance and the
right hand one is full on through the thermal fuse...or is the right
hand terminal speed 3? and the middle two are 1 & 2 ...I don't get it???

Jim GM4DHJ ... submitted this idea :
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down
under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted.... ....Thermal
216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my problem if I
replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse and see if all is
working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

You can short it for a brief test, but it is there to prevent it
overheating and potentially a fire.

No you cannot solder it, the heat would melt the solder.

Some sort of mechanical connection is the only way - tiny nut and
bolts, crimps, or point contact welding.

On 09/03/2020 17:54, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:45, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUNvzyvn8J8

how do you get three speeds out of the resistor pack if the left is
common and only the the two centre connectors gave a resistance and the
right hand one is full on through the thermal fuse...or is the right
hand terminal speed 3? and the middle two are 1 & 2 ...I don't get it???

One of these?

http://79.sore.jimmychoopumps.co/hea...g-diagram.html

I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we used
with old fashioned transistors.

On 09/03/2020 18:57, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:54, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:45, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUNvzyvn8J8

how do you get three speeds out of the resistor pack if the left is
common and only the the two centre connectors gave a resistance and
the right hand one is full on through the thermal fuse...or is the
right hand terminal speed 3? and the middle two are 1 & 2 ...I don't
get it???

One of these?

http://79.sore.jimmychoopumps.co/hea...g-diagram.html

This one is more clear:

http://m.acpartsupplier.net/news/how...-31160480.html

Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote

Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down
under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....

....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my
problem if I replace it? ...

Only one way to find out. They can die for no good reason
and they can fail for the good reason they are there.

and can I just short out the thermal fuse and see if all is working ? ...

Yep.

would have thought so ...

"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
...
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down
under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my
problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse and
see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

Nope, solder melts at lower than that temp and you
will kill the thermal fuse if you try brazing it on or using
a high temp solder.

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 06:08:02 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH senile asshole's latest troll****

06:08, you sick senile asshole? LOL

--
Marland revealing the senile sociopath's pathology:
"You have mentioned Alexa in a couple of threads recently, it is not a real
woman you know even if it is the only thing with a Female name that stays
around around while you talk it to it.
Poor sad git who has to resort to Usenet and electronic devices for any
interaction as all real people run a mile to get away from from you boring
them to death."
MID:

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 06:04:02 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH senile asshole's troll****

06:04??? LOL Admit it, senile idiot, if you hadn't these ngs to troll in,
you'd have NOBODY to talk to in your useless senile life! Let's all hope it
will soon be over for you, you subnormal cretin! G

--
Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID:

On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my
problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse
and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

I take it you have seen the videos/reports of *certain* cars going up in
flames because of overheating fan resistor packs? Watchdog did a feature
about it ISTR...

Just a helpful note, check the cabin filter isn't clogged, for obvious
reasons.

On 09/03/2020 18:57, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:54, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:45, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUNvzyvn8J8

how do you get three speeds out of the resistor pack if the left is
common and only the the two centre connectors gave a resistance and
the right hand one is full on through the thermal fuse...or is the
right hand terminal speed 3? and the middle two are 1 & 2 ...I don't
get it???

One of these?

http://79.sore.jimmychoopumps.co/hea...g-diagram.html

no idea they want me to get an account plastered all over the page ....


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we used
with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

On 09/03/2020 19:02, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 18:57, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:54, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:45, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging
upside down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has
gone all the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are
melted.... ....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think
it will solve my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short
out the thermal fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have
thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUNvzyvn8J8

how do you get three speeds out of the resistor pack if the left is
common and only the the two centre connectors gave a resistance and
the right hand one is full on through the thermal fuse...or is the
right hand terminal speed 3? and the middle two are 1 & 2 ...I don't
get it???

One of these?

http://79.sore.jimmychoopumps.co/hea...g-diagram.html

This one is more clear:

http://m.acpartsupplier.net/news/how...-31160480.html

so there is a full power bypass and three speeds on that....did you not
look at the video I posted?...that has a tear down and the circuit at
the end......

On 09/03/2020 18:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Jim GM4DHJ ... submitted this idea :
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

You can short it for a brief test, but it is there to prevent it
overheating and potentially a fire.

No you cannot solder it, the heat would melt the solder.

Some sort of mechanical connection is the only way - tiny nut and bolts,
crimps, or point contact welding.
bugger I was hoping solder would do it.....I was only going to short it
to make sure the speeds are working....if it works may just get a new one...

On 09/03/2020 19:33, Lee wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

I take it you have seen the videos/reports of *certain* cars going up in
flames because of overheating fan resistor packs? Watchdog did a feature
about it ISTR...

Just a helpful note, check the cabin filter isn't clogged, for obvious
reasons.
haven't seen that...I will check the filter thanks

On 09/03/2020 19:52, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:33, Lee wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

I take it you have seen the videos/reports of *certain* cars going up
in flames because of overheating fan resistor packs? Watchdog did a
feature about it ISTR...

Just a helpful note, check the cabin filter isn't clogged, for obvious
reasons.
haven't seen that...I will check the filter thanks

If you've never changed the Duster's cabin filter since you got it, I'm
not surprised it overheated. It must stink.

On 09/03/2020 19:08, Rod Speed wrote:


"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
...
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

Nope, solder melts at lower than that temp and you
will kill the thermal fuse if you try brazing it on or using
a high temp solder.
OK I will try some mechanical method.....

On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder is
really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car. Usually
a 5 min job.

On 09/03/2020 20:02, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:52, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:33, Lee wrote:
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside
down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all
the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve
my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal
fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

I take it you have seen the videos/reports of *certain* cars going up
in flames because of overheating fan resistor packs? Watchdog did a
feature about it ISTR...

Just a helpful note, check the cabin filter isn't clogged, for
obvious reasons.
haven't seen that...I will check the filter thanks

If you've never changed the Duster's cabin filter since you got it, I'm
not surprised it overheated. It must stink.


I was told being the basic model it didn't have one....let you know
tomorrow...tee hee.....did the merc and it was quite clean after 15
years....

On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder is
really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car. Usually
a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one being
the basic model......probably has one after all...

On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder is
really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car.
Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one being
the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hh

On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder is
really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car.
Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one being
the basic model......probably has one after all...

Even worse, the all kinds of 'cr*p', including leaves, can end up in the
heater. Often, there is space for one in the basic model - they just
don't put the filter(s) in. Worth finding out and inserting. Helps if
someone has Hay Fever as well.

On 09/03/2020 20:26, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it
to 'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder
is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They
aren't expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the
car. Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one
being the basic model......probably has one after all...

Even worse, the all kinds of 'cr*p', including leaves, can end up in the
heater. Often, there is space for one in the basic model - they just
don't put the filter(s) in. Worth finding out and inserting. Helps if
someone has Hay Fever as well.
might do but it might ruin my new resister pack...tee hee

On 09/03/2020 20:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it
to 'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder
is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They
aren't expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the
car. Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one
being the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hee
free flowing.....I like that

On 09/03/2020 20:29, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it
to 'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder
is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They
aren't expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the
car. Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one
being the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hee
free flowing.....I like that
no stinking filter....

Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:29, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it
to 'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder
is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They
aren't expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the
car. Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one
being the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hee
free flowing.....I like that
no stinking filter....


If you say so.

Of course, there is nothing stopping leaves, seeds etc, getting into the
heater. But you save a few pounds a year.

After all, something caused your current problem.

Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder is
really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car.
Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one being
the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hh


Generally only fitted in cars with air-con. If dust and pollen enter the
system whilst the condenser is chilling, theyll stick to the damp
condenser. If you dont have air-con, you dont *need* a filter.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 09/03/2020 21:04, Brian Reay wrote:
Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:29, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it
to 'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder
is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They
aren't expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the
car. Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one
being the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hee
free flowing.....I like that
no stinking filter....


If you say so.

Of course, there is nothing stopping leaves, seeds etc, getting into the
heater. But you save a few pounds a year.

After all, something caused your current problem.

component old age ,...

On 09/03/2020 21:06, Tim+ wrote:
Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote:
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder is
really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car.
Usually a 5 min job.
as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one being
the basic model......probably has one after all...

http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/

ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hh


Generally only fitted in cars with air-con. If dust and pollen enter the
system whilst the condenser is chilling, theyll stick to the damp
condenser. If you dont have air-con, you dont *need* a filter.

Tim

cool well said tim...you are the man .....no air con on mine

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we used
with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

Thats not going to stop if falling off when
it gets hot enough to melt the solder but
not to blow the thermal fuse in use.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first

Not usually feasible with thermal fuses.

and 'nip it' up. The solder is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

But will melt before the thermal fuse blows.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car. Usually a
5 min job.

On 09/03/2020 21:43, John_j wrote:


"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...
On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:


I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to
'open' and they are installed for a reason.

If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we
used with old fashioned transistors.
what is that then?

Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering.

Thats not going to stop if falling off when
it gets hot enough to melt the solder but
not to blow the thermal fuse in use.

As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first

Not usually feasible with thermal fuses.

and 'nip it' up. The solder is really just to stop it shaking.

Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use.

But will melt before the thermal fuse blows.

If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has
overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't
expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car.
Usually a 5 min job.

mechanical fixing then ...

Is the motor a brushed on, and is it worn or damaged internally? The extra
current spikes from a faulty motor can easily blow fuses., what else
protects the thing if the motor seizes and shorts out the supply, do the
resistors catch fire?
Brian

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"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
...
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down
under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted.... ....Thermal
216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my problem if I
replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse and see if all is
working ? ...would have thought so ...

One must ask ones self, why is this fuse here. I think you might just find
the flaw in your cunning plan?
Brian

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"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
...
On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down
under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my
problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse and
see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...
it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? ....

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:43:18 +1100, John_j, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:

FLUSH senile asshole's troll****

08:43!!! LOL So you've been up and trolling for OVER FIVE HOURS already, yet
again, you abnormal senile idiot! "Think" about it, if it doesn't hurt you
too much, idiot! LOL

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doesn't know what's going on?"
MID:

On 09/03/2020 21:57, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
One must ask ones self, why is this fuse here. I think you might just find
the flaw in your cunning plan?
Brian

that did occur to me when I saw it was "welded" on....

On 09/03/2020 21:56, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
Is the motor a brushed on, and is it worn or damaged internally? The extra
current spikes from a faulty motor can easily blow fuses., what else
protects the thing if the motor seizes and shorts out the supply, do the
resistors catch fire?
Brian

well the fan is running fine on full speed position four with no
resistor in line....so who knows ....

On 09/03/2020 20:26, Brian Reay wrote:


Even worse, the all kinds of 'cr*p', including leaves, can end up in the
heater. Often, there is space for one in the basic model - they just
don't put the filter(s) in. Worth finding out and inserting. Helps if
someone has Hay Fever as well.

On the one I fixed by replacing the thermal fuse I found the motor shaft
showing some signs of rust so out with the dip stick and one drop of
engine oil was run down the shaft to the bearing.

When I replaced the thermal fuse I cut the wires on the old fuse close
to the body of the fuse. This left enough wire to fold over to make a
mechanical connection to the new fuse leads before soldering.


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On 09/03/2020 21:06, Tim+ wrote:


Generally only fitted in cars with air-con. If dust and pollen enter the
system whilst the condenser is chilling, theyll stick to the damp
condenser. If you dont have air-con, you dont *need* a filter.

Depends on the car. Ford used to save money by not installing a
pollen/cabin filter on their lower range models. On my previous car the
filter was fitted to the cabin air intake at the bottom of the windscreen

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Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote

Is the motor a brushed on, and is it worn or damaged internally? The extra
current spikes from a faulty motor can easily blow fuses.,

It’s a THERMAL fuse, not a current fuse.

what else protects the thing if the motor seizes and shorts out the
supply, do the resistors catch fire?

"Jim GM4DHJ ..." wrote in message
...
Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down
under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the
resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted....
....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my
problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse and
see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ...

On 09/03/2020 21:43, John_j wrote:

But will melt before the thermal fuse blows.

tin/lead solder will melt at 370C
The thermal fuse will be 150C to 200C lower.

In normal use fuse will blow long before the solder melts. If the
solder melts in normal use you will have a greater problem than a blower
motor fault!

I've used a high power soldering iron to solder to the leads of thermal
fuses without the problem of the fuse blowing. As other have said you
can heat shunt the body of the fuse to prevent the body of it getting
too hot but in my experience a 10 second application of a soldering iron
to the fuse lead doesn't result in the body of the fuse getting too hot.
There may be a problem of using a low power soldering iron that has to
be left on the solder joint far too long. Clean up old wires and tin
with fresh solder before making the joint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jUaf394WIk



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