Im about to lower and plasterboard a ceiling. The existing ceiling and
ornate coving is too far gone for a (economic) repair and plaster skim.
The lath and plaster flat part of the ceiling has been skimmed in the
past but is now showing irregular cracking I suspect because the
original plater has parted from the laths.

I intend to use a metal grid structure designed for this purpose to
which all edges and the centre of each plasterboard sheet are attached €“
the plasterboard screws screw directly into the metal structure.

If possible I would like not to go to the expense of skimming
afterwards. This leaves just taping and filling the gaps. Most of the
joins in the flat part of the ceiling will be to tapered boards but
there will be some smaller butt joins with no taper, There is also the
gap or join where the new ceiling meets the walls. Im fully aware of
the techniques on taping and filling so that the joins, when painted,
become virtually invisible €“ staggering non-tapered butt joints and
feathering out over 6 to 12 inches etc.

Now the question. Which tape to use, paper or mesh? Many years ago I
just used paper jointing tape. Various Youtube videos show both being
used however its often unclear why one person uses the two different
types on the same job. Mesh tape may not give as crisp 90 degree corner
where a ceiling meets a wall and mesh tape may require a heavier grade
of faster setting jointing compound to make sure that it stays in place.
Paper tape may bubble whilst drying if not wetted enough with compound
whilst being installed but a lighter weight compound that is easier to
sand can be used.

In the instructional videos the tape used may be down to personal
preference and based on the speed of installation by a highly skilled
operative. I have no time problems and can wait a day for jointing
compound to dry before apply second or third coats.

Has anyone any experience with either of the two types of tape and which
jointing compound was used?

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

alan_m wrote:

Has anyone any experience with either of the two types of tape and which
jointing compound was used?

I get on better with the self-adhesive mesh tape, and a big tub of
Gyproc ready-mixed joint cement, as far as the wall/ceiling junction I
re-coved it.

On Saturday, 15 February 2020 22:11:57 UTC, alan_m wrote:
Im about to lower and plasterboard a ceiling. The existing ceiling and
ornate coving is too far gone for a (economic) repair and plaster skim.
The lath and plaster flat part of the ceiling has been skimmed in the
past but is now showing irregular cracking I suspect because the
original plater has parted from the laths.

I intend to use a metal grid structure designed for this purpose to
which all edges and the centre of each plasterboard sheet are attached €“
the plasterboard screws screw directly into the metal structure.

If possible I would like not to go to the expense of skimming
afterwards. This leaves just taping and filling the gaps. Most of the
joins in the flat part of the ceiling will be to tapered boards but
there will be some smaller butt joins with no taper, There is also the
gap or join where the new ceiling meets the walls. Im fully aware of
the techniques on taping and filling so that the joins, when painted,
become virtually invisible €“ staggering non-tapered butt joints and
feathering out over 6 to 12 inches etc.

Now the question. Which tape to use, paper or mesh? Many years ago I
just used paper jointing tape. Various Youtube videos show both being
used however its often unclear why one person uses the two different
types on the same job. Mesh tape may not give as crisp 90 degree corner
where a ceiling meets a wall and mesh tape may require a heavier grade
of faster setting jointing compound to make sure that it stays in place.
Paper tape may bubble whilst drying if not wetted enough with compound
whilst being installed but a lighter weight compound that is easier to
sand can be used.

In the instructional videos the tape used may be down to personal
preference and based on the speed of installation by a highly skilled
operative. I have no time problems and can wait a day for jointing
compound to dry before apply second or third coats.

Has anyone any experience with either of the two types of tape and which
jointing compound was used?

IME paper tapes tend to partly come off later.


NT

On 16/02/2020 08:19, Andy Burns wrote:
alan_m wrote:

Has anyone any experience with either of the two types of tape and
which jointing compound was used?

I get on better with the self-adhesive mesh tape, and a big tub of
Gyproc ready-mixed joint cement, as far as the wall/ceiling junction I
re-coved it.

I may consider coving if the result turns out badly but its not a square
shaped room and requires 12 off angles none of which will be truly 90
degrees.

Using a laser level to mark the datum for the new dropped ceiling has
shown that the existing ceiling height varies by around 3 cm over 2
metres. It's a 2.3m (9 foot) high ceiling so not particularly noticeable.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 15 Feb 2020 at 22:11:56 GMT, "alan_m" wrote:


Im about to lower and plasterboard a ceiling. The existing ceiling and
ornate coving is too far gone for a (economic) repair and plaster skim.
The lath and plaster flat part of the ceiling has been skimmed in the
past but is now showing irregular cracking I suspect because the
original plater has parted from the laths.

I intend to use a metal grid structure designed for this purpose to
which all edges and the centre of each plasterboard sheet are attached €“
the plasterboard screws screw directly into the metal structure.

If possible I would like not to go to the expense of skimming
afterwards. This leaves just taping and filling the gaps. Most of the
joins in the flat part of the ceiling will be to tapered boards but
there will be some smaller butt joins with no taper, There is also the
gap or join where the new ceiling meets the walls. Im fully aware of
the techniques on taping and filling so that the joins, when painted,
become virtually invisible €“ staggering non-tapered butt joints and
feathering out over 6 to 12 inches etc.

Now the question. Which tape to use, paper or mesh? Many years ago I
just used paper jointing tape. Various Youtube videos show both being
used however its often unclear why one person uses the two different
types on the same job. Mesh tape may not give as crisp 90 degree corner
where a ceiling meets a wall and mesh tape may require a heavier grade
of faster setting jointing compound to make sure that it stays in place.
Paper tape may bubble whilst drying if not wetted enough with compound
whilst being installed but a lighter weight compound that is easier to
sand can be used.

In the instructional videos the tape used may be down to personal
preference and based on the speed of installation by a highly skilled
operative. I have no time problems and can wait a day for jointing
compound to dry before apply second or third coats.

Has anyone any experience with either of the two types of tape and which
jointing compound was used?

I did one wall into a corner, using paper. It struck me that paper was thinner
than the mesh so would be easier to cover with the drywall paste. Worked very
well, and the paper's built in crease seemed to sort out the corners. I did
take the trouble to get purpose made spreader and corners tool - I'm sure they
made a difference.

And I did have my eye on those dry wall sanders in Aldi the other month, but
decided that'd be a tool too far.


--
Cheers, Rob

On 16/02/2020 10:30, RJH wrote:

And I did have my eye on those dry wall sanders in Aldi the other month, but
decided that'd be a tool too far.


I didn't see the recent offering but I purchased one (or similar) around
5 years ago. It was bulky and produced a lot of dust and has since gone
to the tip.

A much better tool is the sanding plate on the end of a pole and mesh
sanding sheets. The pole makes sanding easier and the dust just drops to
the floor rather than filling the room.

https://tinyurl.com/su73j7g
https://tinyurl.com/rsbzgxa


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 11:40:52 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 16/02/2020 10:30, RJH wrote:

And I did have my eye on those dry wall sanders in Aldi the other month, but
decided that'd be a tool too far.


I didn't see the recent offering but I purchased one (or similar) around
5 years ago. It was bulky and produced a lot of dust and has since gone
to the tip.

Why would you take something functional to the tip, rather than just
giving it away?

snip

Cheers, T i m

On 16/02/2020 11:59, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 11:40:52 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 16/02/2020 10:30, RJH wrote:

And I did have my eye on those dry wall sanders in Aldi the other month, but
decided that'd be a tool too far.


I didn't see the recent offering but I purchased one (or similar) around
5 years ago. It was bulky and produced a lot of dust and has since gone
to the tip.

Why would you take something functional to the tip, rather than just
giving it away?

snip

Cheers, T i m



Most of the working stuff that goes down the tip has already been at the
front of my driveway with a notice saying free for anyone that can make
use of it. I usually include the manual in a plastic bag taped to the
equipment. Most of the stuff I put out this way goes but in this case
it was still unwanted after two days of putting it out.

My local tip now has a recycle shop where you can hand in working
equipment and other items for resale.

https://www.southend.gov.uk/info/200...99/re-use_shop

https://tinyurl.com/yx4xmxkv

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 12:19:21 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

snip

Why would you take something functional to the tip, rather than just
giving it away?


Most of the working stuff that goes down the tip has already been at the
front of my driveway with a notice saying free for anyone that can make
use of it.

Ok ...

I usually include the manual in a plastic bag taped to the
equipment. Most of the stuff I put out this way goes but in this case
it was still unwanted after two days of putting it out.

Ok.

My local tip now has a recycle shop where you can hand in working
equipment and other items for resale.

That's a good idea.

https://www.southend.gov.uk/info/200...99/re-use_shop

https://tinyurl.com/yx4xmxkv

So, did you hand your sander in there?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. We went to Wood Green Animal centre (Godmanchester) and out the
front of their 'charity shop' were loads of cages and plastic beds
that people had given to them and they were in-turn giving away,
simply because they were inundated with them. ;-(

On 16 Feb 2020 at 11:40:52 GMT, "alan_m" wrote:

On 16/02/2020 10:30, RJH wrote:

And I did have my eye on those dry wall sanders in Aldi the other month, but
decided that'd be a tool too far.


I didn't see the recent offering but I purchased one (or similar) around
5 years ago. It was bulky and produced a lot of dust and has since gone
to the tip.

A much better tool is the sanding plate on the end of a pole and mesh
sanding sheets. The pole makes sanding easier and the dust just drops to
the floor rather than filling the room.

https://tinyurl.com/su73j7g
https://tinyurl.com/rsbzgxa

Good to know, thanks


--
Cheers, Rob

In article ,
alan_m wrote:
I may consider coving if the result turns out badly but its not a square
shaped room and requires 12 off angles none of which will be truly 90
degrees.

I fairly recently fitted an artificial cornice to my Victorian living
room. The original had gone due to war damage - long before I bought this
house. I got the closest match I could to next doors - theirs is still
original.

I do have a decent sliding compound mitre saw.

The artificial stuff is quite flexible unlike plaster. And my ceiling were
anything but perfectly square.

Still very pleased with the results - but it's not cheap. And don't skimp
on the adhesive or use a cheap one.

--
*If a thing is worth doing, wouldn't it have been done already?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 16/02/2020 13:19, T i m wrote:

https://tinyurl.com/yx4xmxkv

So, did you hand your sander in there?

No, because the re-use shop is a fairly recent addition to the tip.
However it did go in the small item electrical cage which I suspect was
picked over by the staff at the time for boot sale items. The staff
have always tended to watch what is going into the massive general waste
skips and redirect anything that looks reasonable to a pile near their
tea making container I think they have always redirected bikes and
bike parts to a local charity that gives work experience refurbishing
them.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk