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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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We are in the thought process of removing night storage heaters and
having new full central heating and hot water from a kerosene fired boiler. The issue is whether we go for a combi boiler or a system boiler with a much smaller HW cylinder than at present and with the smaller cylinder relocated to the loft. The boiler will be an outside boiler. The length of hot water to taps/shower pipe runs from a combi boiler will be great and need a lot of running off before the hot water comes through but it avoids the need for a cylinder. A system boiler would give a heated water store that would be almost directly above bathrooms and kitchen but would be in the loft (single storey dwelling) so supplies to taps would run down walls rather than up from underfloor. I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. Any thoughts please on system vs combi and also efficiency of kerosene combi for the supply of HW. Thanks |
#2
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Bev submitted this idea :
I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. I had a cylinder for stored water installed back in mid-80's (gas boiler) and have resisted suggestions to replace it with a combi twice since then. Combi boilers are just about OK for houses which are not much occupied, but they have great disadvantages for most people.. 1. They waste water until it heats up. 2. Increased wear on the boiler, which has to fire everytime HW is needed. 3. They are more inefficient heating water. Stored systems are more complicated and costly to install, plus take up extra space. Unused HW looses heat from the cylinder. Heating engineers like replacing stored with combi systems because they get the value of the scrap copper. |
#3
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Harry Bloomfield, Esq. wrote:
Bev submitted this idea : I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. I had a cylinder for stored water installed back in mid-80's (gas boiler) and have resisted suggestions to replace it with a combi twice since then. Combi boilers are just about OK for houses which are not much occupied, but they have great disadvantages for most people.. 1. They waste water until it heats up. 2. Increased wear on the boiler, which has to fire everytime HW is needed. 3. They are more inefficient heating water. Stored systems are more complicated and costly to install, plus take up extra space. Unused HW looses heat from the cylinder. Heating engineers like replacing stored with combi systems because they get the value of the scrap copper. We stayed with a relative for a few days this week who has a combi, it was noticeable that if we were having a shower and someone turned on a hot tap in the kitchen, you got a €˜cold surprise. Conversely, we have two showers which are pump assisted and we can run both at the same time and you dont notice if someone turns on a hot tap. We have a hot water storage tank. True, the hot tank €˜sits there and is losing heat but, in practice, it is so well insulated it seems to get heated up and require very little energy to maintain it. It isnt unknown for me to turn it off when going away for a day, come back, remember to turn the heating on but not the water heater, and not notice until residual hot water from before the short trip has been used- perhaps a day. |
#4
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On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 11:53:45 GMT, Harry Bloomfield, Esq.
wrote: Bev submitted this idea : I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. I had a cylinder for stored water installed back in mid-80's (gas boiler) and have resisted suggestions to replace it with a combi twice since then. Combi boilers are just about OK for houses which are not much occupied, but they have great disadvantages for most people.. 1. They waste water until it heats up. 2. Increased wear on the boiler, which has to fire everytime HW is needed. 3. They are more inefficient heating water. We experience this to an extreme with our combi as the kitchen is quite a way from the boiler, though thankfully the shower is near the boiler. What would suit us is a small tank above the kitchen warmed by the CH system and maybe a thermostatically controlled element. At a previous property a similar arrangement worked well from an open coal fired CH system. Do such systems exist? -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
#5
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On 01/02/2020 12:34, AnthonyL wrote:
On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 11:53:45 GMT, Harry Bloomfield, Esq. wrote: Bev submitted this idea : I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. I had a cylinder for stored water installed back in mid-80's (gas boiler) and have resisted suggestions to replace it with a combi twice since then. Combi boilers are just about OK for houses which are not much occupied, but they have great disadvantages for most people.. 1. They waste water until it heats up. 2. Increased wear on the boiler, which has to fire everytime HW is needed. 3. They are more inefficient heating water. We experience this to an extreme with our combi as the kitchen is quite a way from the boiler, though thankfully the shower is near the boiler. What would suit us is a small tank above the kitchen warmed by the CH system and maybe a thermostatically controlled element. At a previous property a similar arrangement worked well from an open coal fired CH system. Do such systems exist? There is nothing to stop you running a combi with a conventional Y plan system as well. So stored HW for baths etc, then on demand mains pressure potable water for kitchen / showers etc. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#6
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In article ,
John Rumm wrote: There is nothing to stop you running a combi with a conventional Y plan system as well. So stored HW for baths etc, then on demand mains pressure potable water for kitchen / showers etc. IMM is alive and well. ;-) Why would you heat up and keep hot a cylinder just for baths? -- *Income tax service - We‘ve got what it takes to take what you've got. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#7
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On 01/02/2020 14:59, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , John Rumm wrote: There is nothing to stop you running a combi with a conventional Y plan system as well. So stored HW for baths etc, then on demand mains pressure potable water for kitchen / showers etc. IMM is alive and well. ;-) Why would you heat up and keep hot a cylinder just for baths? One of the complaints about combi boilers is about how long it takes to fill a bath. That gives a combi boiler user an extra 4 minutes to have a wank before having a bath. -- Adam |
#8
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In message , John
Rumm writes On 01/02/2020 12:34, AnthonyL wrote: On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 11:53:45 GMT, Harry Bloomfield, Esq. wrote: Bev submitted this idea : I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. I had a cylinder for stored water installed back in mid-80's (gas boiler) and have resisted suggestions to replace it with a combi twice since then. Combi boilers are just about OK for houses which are not much occupied, but they have great disadvantages for most people.. 1. They waste water until it heats up. 2. Increased wear on the boiler, which has to fire everytime HW is needed. 3. They are more inefficient heating water. We experience this to an extreme with our combi as the kitchen is quite a way from the boiler, though thankfully the shower is near the boiler. What would suit us is a small tank above the kitchen warmed by the CH system and maybe a thermostatically controlled element. At a previous property a similar arrangement worked well from an open coal fired CH system. Do such systems exist? There is nothing to stop you running a combi with a conventional Y plan system as well. So stored HW for baths etc, then on demand mains pressure potable water for kitchen / showers etc. Also consider a thermal store. Avoids the issues of a combi but retains flow rates through small bore piping. -- Tim Lamb |
#9
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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AnthonyL wrote :
What would suit us is a small tank above the kitchen warmed by the CH system and maybe a thermostatically controlled element. At a previous property a similar arrangement worked well from an open coal fired CH system. Do such systems exist? I understand you can buy an electrically heated local system (to where it is consumed), which stores the combi heated water keeping it hot. Thus you get hot water quickly, without the usual delay of a combi. |
#10
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On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 05:13:35 -0600, Bev wrote:
The length of hot water to taps/shower pipe runs from a combi boiler will be great and need a lot of running off before the hot water comes through but it avoids the need for a cylinder. Not just at first start either - if you are using hot water in short bursts you get a slug of cold water followed by excessively hot each time you turn off and on again; ok if you're running a bath, wasteful otherwise. Avoid combi if you can. |
#11
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On 01/02/2020 11:13, Bev wrote:
We are in the thought process of removing night storage heaters and having new full central heating and hot water from a kerosene fired boiler. The issue is whether we go for a combi boiler or a system boiler with a much smaller HW cylinder than at present and with the smaller cylinder relocated to the loft. Why a smaller cylinder? The boiler will be an outside boiler. The length of hot water to taps/shower pipe runs from a combi boiler will be great and need a lot of running off before the hot water comes through but it avoids the need for a cylinder. A system boiler would give a heated water store that would be almost directly above bathrooms and kitchen but would be in the loft (single storey dwelling) so supplies to taps would run down walls rather than up from underfloor. I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. Any thoughts please on system vs combi and also efficiency of kerosene combi for the supply of HW. HW production with a combi really just comes down to the maximum instantaneous power. Smaller boilers (e.g. 24kW) will do a nice shower but will be slower filling a bath. A more powerful one (say 35kW) will do better all round and can cope with two showers at once (assuming the cold mains supply is up to it). Have you considered a system boiler and an unvented cylinder? That gives the advantages of both at once - lots of stored hot water and mains pressure delivery, with no need for an additional header tank. Guidance on choosing a system he http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/..._Water_Systems Unvented systems he http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Unvented_DHW -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#12
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On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 14:53:55 +0000, John Rumm wrote:
On 01/02/2020 11:13, Bev wrote: We are in the thought process of removing night storage heaters and having new full central heating and hot water from a kerosene fired boiler. The issue is whether we go for a combi boiler or a system boiler with a much smaller HW cylinder than at present and with the smaller cylinder relocated to the loft. Why a smaller cylinder? Because the one that is in the cylinder cupboard is 263l and is a low pressure system fed from loft header tank and it takes up far too much space. My thoughts were to go with a pressurised unvented cylinder (which, I think, is what you describe below---) in the loft with the relief being discharged outside into the drain. The discharge route is easily achievable. Have you considered a system boiler and an unvented cylinder? That gives the advantages of both at once - lots of stored hot water and mains pressure delivery, with no need for an additional header tank. Guidance on choosing a system he http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/..._Water_Systems Unvented systems he http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Unvented_DHW Thanks for the links (and to others for their responses too) |
#13
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Bev wrote:
On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 14:53:55 +0000, John Rumm wrote: On 01/02/2020 11:13, Bev wrote: We are in the thought process of removing night storage heaters and having new full central heating and hot water from a kerosene fired boiler. The issue is whether we go for a combi boiler or a system boiler with a much smaller HW cylinder than at present and with the smaller cylinder relocated to the loft. Why a smaller cylinder? Because the one that is in the cylinder cupboard is 263l and is a low pressure system fed from loft header tank and it takes up far too much space. My thoughts were to go with a pressurised unvented cylinder (which, I think, is what you describe below---) in the loft with the relief being discharged outside into the drain. The discharge route is easily achievable. Have you considered a system boiler and an unvented cylinder? That gives the advantages of both at once - lots of stored hot water and mains pressure delivery, with no need for an additional header tank. Guidance on choosing a system he http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/..._Water_Systems Unvented systems he http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Unvented_DHW Thanks for the links (and to others for their responses too) You can get horizontal unvented cylinders if lack of headroom is limiting your choice of cylinder capacity. No idea how they compare price wise but I would expect them to be more expensive just because demand is lower. Still, it might give you more options. Eg. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/pr...rect-cylinders Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#14
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On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 17:21:23 +0000, Tim+ wrote:
You can get horizontal unvented cylinders if lack of headroom is limiting your choice of cylinder capacity. No idea how they compare price wise but I would expect them to be more expensive just because demand is lower. Still, it might give you more options. Eg. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/pr...ders/unvented- hot-water-cylinders/ultrasteel-horizontal-indirect-cylinders Tim Thanks but headroom is not a problem. |
#15
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In message , Bev
writes On Sat, 01 Feb 2020 17:21:23 +0000, Tim+ wrote: You can get horizontal unvented cylinders if lack of headroom is limiting your choice of cylinder capacity. No idea how they compare price wise but I would expect them to be more expensive just because demand is lower. Still, it might give you more options. Eg. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/pr...ders/unvented- hot-water-cylinders/ultrasteel-horizontal-indirect-cylinders Tim Thanks but headroom is not a problem. You will miss the waste heat in your now spacious airing cupboard:-) -- Tim Lamb |
#16
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On 01/02/2020 11:13, Bev wrote:
I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. The one thing I have noticed is that oil boilers have never failed to provide decent hot water. I'd put a mains pressure tank in the loft - then you have all the advantages of the combi - mains pressure hot water, no shower pumnps - and all the advantages of a system boiler with a tank - high flow rate of hot water. If your water is hard, put in a water softener to protect it. -- "The great thing about Glasgow is that if there's a nuclear attack it'll look exactly the same afterwards." Billy Connolly |
#17
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On Sun, 02 Feb 2020 03:52:48 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 01/02/2020 11:13, Bev wrote: I'm more tempted by a system with cylinder as I have also read some reviews that say that kerosene combi are not as good at producing HW as a gas fired. The one thing I have noticed is that oil boilers have never failed to provide decent hot water. Thanks I'd put a mains pressure tank in the loft - then you have all the advantages of the combi - mains pressure hot water, no shower pumnps - and all the advantages of a system boiler with a tank - high flow rate of hot water. Again thanks If your water is hard, put in a water softener to protect it. Fortunately we have a soft water supply |
#18
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Let me quell the myth that oil combis are not as good as gas combis. Most of them are better. Look at the Firebird range and outdoor models of their boilers are available. However you might like to consider a heat pump which subject to meeting various conditions can attract Renewable Heat Initiative (RHI) payments. Bear in mind heat pumps produce lower temperature hot water to circulate through the radiators so require greater surface areas of emitters. Both oil or heat pump sources can work with an unvented hot water cylinder. If you go to a heat pump once a week or so the temperature of the hot water cylinder needs boosting with a standard immersion heater to avoid risk of legionella.
If the old airing cupboard is cold it's easy to add a small radiator to compensate for the loss of the heat from the old cylinder. |
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