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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I have a radiator with a sluggish flow pipe (checked by looking at flow
from radiator drain when opening either flow or return and seeing a vast difference) Based on a previous problem I suspectthe outlet from the manifold to be choked with scale and or debris. The manifold is rather "busy" and in a tricky location. I don't want to just go in randomly disturbing joints. Any ideas for identifying which union it might be. I can possibly eliminate some from the direction - but want to identigy the problem one. I had previously had a radiator re-piped (during some building work) due to the same problem - but the blockage was only at the manifold - the pipe was clean. Unfortunately I wasn't home when it was being done. |
#2
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John wrote:
Any ideas for identifying which union it might be. turn all rads off except the tricky one, see which pipe from the manifold has (at least some) flow warming it? |
#3
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On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 09:53:42 GMT, John wrote:
The manifold is rather "busy" and in a tricky location. I don't want to just go in randomly disturbing joints. Any ideas for identifying which union it might be. I can possibly eliminate some from the direction - but want to identigy the problem one. Let the system go cold. Shut control (not lock sheild) valves on all but the poor performing radiator. Turn system on, monitor pipe temps. The one that warms first is the flow to the dodgy rad one a bit cooler the return. Helps if you have an IR thermometer. Re-open the control valves. -- Cheers Dave. |
#4
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On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 10:01:32 +0000 (GMT), Dave Liquorice wrote:
Let the system go cold. Shut control (not lock sheild) valves on all but the poor performing radiator. Turn system on, monitor pipe temps. The one that warms first is the flow to the dodgy rad one a bit cooler the return. Helps if you have an IR thermometer. Re-open the control valves. Oh and this may flush the crud to somewhere else where it's not a problem. IR camera could replace IR thermometer. Lo res modules can be had for £40 for use with a Pi or similar. -- Cheers Dave. |
#5
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"Dave Liquorice" wrote in
idual.net: On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 09:53:42 GMT, John wrote: The manifold is rather "busy" and in a tricky location. I don't want to just go in randomly disturbing joints. Any ideas for identifying which union it might be. I can possibly eliminate some from the direction - but want to identigy the problem one. Let the system go cold. Shut control (not lock sheild) valves on all but the poor performing radiator. Turn system on, monitor pipe temps. The one that warms first is the flow to the dodgy rad one a bit cooler the return. Helps if you have an IR thermometer. Re-open the control valves. Thanks - just concerned that limited access might mean that conduction through the copper pipe from the manifold may confuse things. |
#6
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John Wrote in message:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in idual.net: On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 09:53:42 GMT, John wrote: The manifold is rather "busy" and in a tricky location. I don't want to just go in randomly disturbing joints. Any ideas for identifying which union it might be. I can possibly eliminate some from the direction - but want to identigy the problem one. Let the system go cold. Shut control (not lock sheild) valves on all but the poor performing radiator. Turn system on, monitor pipe temps. The one that warms first is the flow to the dodgy rad one a bit cooler the return. Helps if you have an IR thermometer. Re-open the control valves. Thanks - just concerned that limited access might mean that conduction through the copper pipe from the manifold may confuse things. You can try for nought? -- Jimk ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
#7
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If the distance and pipe id permit try rodding with a flexible curtain wire
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#8
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Cynic wrote in
: If the distance and pipe id permit try rodding with a flexible curtain wire I reckon about 15 feet. At the radiator end there are 2 90 degree bends. Had tried back flusing with mains water when the system was empty. |
#9
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On 02/12/2019 12:42, John wrote:
Cynic wrote in : If the distance and pipe id permit try rodding with a flexible curtain wire I reckon about 15 feet. At the radiator end there are 2 90 degree bends. Had tried back flusing with mains water when the system was empty. Cut the pipe, rod out and rejoin? SteveW |
#10
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Have you considered an airlock these commonly occur on re-filling after a drain down especially on a system with drop feeds to radiators.
Richard |
#11
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Tricky Dicky wrote in
: Have you considered an airlock these commonly occur on re-filling after a drain down especially on a system with drop feeds to radiators. Richard Over the years I have tried many things - including back flushing. Evidence from another union leads me to suspect a blockage - possibly due to a burr on the pipe. |
#12
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Steve Walker wrote in news:qs40ul$ad4$3@dont-
email.me: On 02/12/2019 12:42, John wrote: Cynic wrote in : If the distance and pipe id permit try rodding with a flexible curtain wire I reckon about 15 feet. At the radiator end there are 2 90 degree bends. Had tried back flusing with mains water when the system was empty. Cut the pipe, rod out and rejoin? SteveW Good idea - if the pipe can be identified - and if there is room to do it.Lots of bent pipes and limited space. |
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