I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Bill Wright wrote

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Should work fine. Dunno how buyable it is tho.

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 15:22:41 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Should work fine. Dunno how buyable it is tho.

So why don't you shut your senile gob, if you know nothing about it? tsk

--
addressing nym-shifting senile Rodent:
"You on the other hand are a heavyweight bull****ter who demonstrates
your particular prowess at it every day."
MID:

On 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

https://hackaday.com/2019/05/28/wire...make-your-own/

Its the wattage that will be the killer.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Richard" wrote in message
...
On 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

https://hackaday.com/2019/05/28/wire...make-your-own/

On Sun 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.


Magnetic switch if close enough, or some form of proximity sensor if
farther away? Look at burglar alarm kit - plenty of that sort of thing.
You might need to incorporate a small relay or transistor switch to
handle the current though.

--
Woody

harrogate three at ntlworld dot com

Woody wrote:

Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate.

Magnetic switch if close enough, or some form of proximity sensor if
farther away?

That seems to completely avoid the question of how the power jumps over
to the gate ...

On 24/11/2019 09:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Woody wrote:

Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate.

Magnetic switch if close enough, or some form of proximity sensor if
farther away?

That seems to completely avoid the question of how the power jumps over
to the gate ...

Mmm.

Thet set me thinking alomgh te lones of a pair of contacts that are
m,ade when the gate is fully (open? closed?) that charge a BATTERY on
the gaste that powers the lights.


--
"Nature does not give up the winter because people dislike the cold."

ۥ Confucius

On 24/11/2019 09:31, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 24/11/2019 09:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Woody wrote:

Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate.

Magnetic switch if close enough, or some form of proximity sensor if
farther away?

That seems to completely avoid the question of how the power jumps
over to the gate ...

Mmm.

Thet set me thinking alomgh te lones of a pair of contacts that are
m,ade when the gate is fully (open? closed?) that charge a BATTERY on
the gaste that powers the lights.


I'd like to do it that way but it would be hard (for me) to make
something that would do it, and would withstand all weathers.

I could use ground return of course. The gate wheels are steel, not plastic.

Hmm...

Bill

On Sunday, 24 November 2019 18:11:25 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:
I could use ground return of course. The gate wheels are steel, not plastic.

Neons and an electric fence energiser?

Pretty *and* secure.

Owain

On 24/11/2019 18:11, Bill Wright wrote:
I'd like to do it that way but it would be hard (for me) to make
something that would do it, and would withstand all weathers.

Several years ago I added some contact strips for the sliding gate at
work. I ran the wires to them via a carbon fibre fishing rod sitting
half way back from the gate. It lasted for a few years until a more
modern, safer, gate was installed. The whip in the rod meant the loop
of wire did not sag much as the gate opened.

On Sun 24/11/2019 09:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Woody wrote:

Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate.

Magnetic switch if close enough, or some form of proximity sensor if
farther away?

That seems to completely avoid the question of how the power jumps over
to the gate ...

I misunderstood the question. Having said that, for safety reasons the
gate should have a bump stop on the leading edge so that if someone or
thing gets in the way the gate either stops or withdraws. Such gates are
heavy so need a fairly powerful motor (even if geared) to shift them
ergo if it didn't stop it could do damage or serious injury.
If the gate has such sensing then by definition it must already have
some form of connection to it so that the bump sensor gets its message
back to the controller, and if that connection exists then it shouldn't
be difficult to get power for the LEDs as well surely?

--
Woody

harrogate three at ntlworld dot com

On 24/11/2019 11:01, Woody wrote:

That seems to completely avoid the question of how the power jumps
over to the gate ...

I misunderstood the question. Having said that, for safety reasons the
gate should have a bump stop on the leading edge so that if someone or
thing gets in the way the gate either stops or withdraws. Such gates are
heavy so need a fairly powerful motor (even if geared) to shift them
ergo if it didn't stop it could do damage or serious injury.
If the gate has such sensing then by definition it must already have
some form of connection to it so that the bump sensor gets its message
back to the controller, and if that connection exists then it shouldn't
be difficult to get power for the LEDs as well surely?


The safety sensors on the gate are connected to 433MHz transmitters that
emit a brief signal when activated. The signal is picked up by a
receiver that communicates with the gate motor's control panel. In
addition there are fixed IR beams across the drive entrance.

Bill

I think his issue is that in order to connect the lights on a sliding
structure, he needs a long bit of cable, susceptible to damage, hence why he
wants it to be wireless.
Many years ago, and don't try this at home folks. I saw an electric
helicopter being powered by a microwave beam from a modified oven. I somehow
think that the power loss and danger involved in powering leds this way
might be a slight issue though.

I still think some sliding contacts are the best bet myself, Low voltage, so
no danger and if shrouded well, will probably last for years assuming the do
not corrode, the sliding motion may keep them clean.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Woody" wrote in message
...
On Sun 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.


Magnetic switch if close enough, or some form of proximity sensor if
farther away? Look at burglar alarm kit - plenty of that sort of thing.
You might need to incorporate a small relay or transistor switch to handle
the current though.

--
Woody

harrogate three at ntlworld dot com

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 09:29:08 -0000, Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:

I think his issue is that in order to connect the lights on a sliding
structure, he needs a long bit of cable, susceptible to damage, hence
why he wants it to be wireless.

A catenary cable from end of gate to post a foot or so away from the
rear of the gate should be resonably safe area but if the gate opens
more than twice the height of the gate the bottom of the cateanry
will touch the ground before the gate is open. Actually the less than
twice as you'd want some slack in the cable with the gate fully
closed.

I still think some sliding contacts are the best bet myself, Low
voltage, so no danger and if shrouded well, will probably last for years
assuming the do not corrode, the sliding motion may keep them clean.

I'm inclined to agree a mechanical solution is likely to be more
reliable and easier to install, if only because the weather proofing
requirements are almost non existant.

Corrosion can be elminated by choice of contact materials:

Stainless steel, recovered from the actual rubber blades of some old
wipers? Rather small, less than 1/8" wide.

Springy copper strip "Copper traditional draught excluder". I have
some, somewhere, but haven't seen it for quite a while. It wouldn't
have got thrown out that's for sure! Advantage is that it's about an
inch wide so easy to get a decent contact area and alignment. I could
be persuaded to go looking and pop a some in the post.

Brass shim sheet, might be available in the DIY sheds with the angle,
rod, tube other metal sheet stuff. But might not be springy enough.
My metalurgy isn't up to knowing if heat treatment/quencing would
make it springy.

Fixings, brass or stainless steel screws.

Or look at what is on offer for automatically
connecting/disconnecting electric fences across gates (hinged or
sliding). Might need careful selection of type and minor mods as an
electric fence is high voltage low current rather than low voltge
high current.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sunday, 24 November 2019 11:49:44 UTC, Dave Liquorice wrote:
A catenary cable from end of gate to post a foot or so away from the
rear of the gate should be resonably safe area but if the gate opens
more than twice the height of the gate the bottom of the cateanry
will touch the ground before the gate is open. Actually the less than
twice as you'd want some slack in the cable with the gate fully
closed.

However one could use a retractable cable reel; that wouldn't have a hanging loop.

https://whiterosetools.com/products/...tlet-extension

An alternative is a coily flex (headphone type) with a retractable clothes-line through the middle of the helix to stop it dragging on the ground.

https://www.simbal.net/product-category/spiral-cables/

Festoon carriers are available to attach to the cable so the cable sheath isn't rubbing directly on the catenary

https://www.simbal.net/product-categ...-wire-systems/

Owain

On Sunday, 24 November 2019 12:26:23 UTC, wrote:
However one could use a retractable cable reel; that wouldn't have a hanging loop.

In fact this is basically it:

https://www.simbal.net/product-categ...spection-lamp/

Tie lamp to gate. Fix reel to post. Connect. Job done (at some cost, admittedly).

Owain

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 04:26:20 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

A catenary cable from end of gate to post a foot or so away from
the
rear of the gate should be resonably safe area but if the gate
opens
more than twice the height of the gate the bottom of the cateanry
will touch the ground before the gate is open. Actually the less
than
twice as you'd want some slack in the cable with the gate fully
closed.

However one could use a retractable cable reel; that wouldn't have a
hanging loop.

Well a smaller hanging loop as the weight of the cable will make one
form. B-) I'd assume that out of the box it doesn't normally retract
until the "pull and release" mechanisum has been activated. That
would need disabling.

--
Cheers
Dave.

wrote in message
...
On Sunday, 24 November 2019 11:49:44 UTC, Dave Liquorice wrote:
A catenary cable from end of gate to post a foot or so away from the
rear of the gate should be resonably safe area but if the gate opens
more than twice the height of the gate the bottom of the cateanry
will touch the ground before the gate is open. Actually the less than
twice as you'd want some slack in the cable with the gate fully
closed.

However one could use a retractable cable reel; that wouldn't have a
hanging loop.

https://whiterosetools.com/products/...tlet-extension

An alternative is a coily flex (headphone type) with a retractable
clothes-line through the middle of the helix to stop it dragging on the
ground.

https://www.simbal.net/product-category/spiral-cables/

Festoon carriers are available to attach to the cable so the cable sheath
isn't rubbing directly on the catenary

https://www.simbal.net/product-categ...-wire-systems/

Pretty crude compared with an inductive thing at the closing end imo.

And it may be easier to wire at the closing end too.

On 24/11/2019 11:49, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 09:29:08 -0000, Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:

I think his issue is that in order to connect the lights on a sliding
structure, he needs a long bit of cable, susceptible to damage, hence
why he wants it to be wireless.

A catenary cable from end of gate to post a foot or so away from the
rear of the gate should be resonably safe area but if the gate opens
more than twice the height of the gate the bottom of the cateanry
will touch the ground before the gate is open. Actually the less than
twice as you'd want some slack in the cable with the gate fully
closed.

The industrial solution is a cable carrier

https://www.wireandcabletips.com/cable-carrier-basics/

You see the same sort of things in many carwashes.

SteveW

On 24/11/2019 08:47, Woody wrote:
On Sun 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I
could power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the
gate's shut they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power
requirement of the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of
the gate is good.


Magnetic switch if close enough, or some form of proximity sensor if
farther away? Look at burglar alarm kit - plenty of that sort of thing.
You might need to incorporate a small relay or transistor switch to
handle the current though.

How would the LEDs be powered?

Bill

On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be suitable?
Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ

Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

--

Jeff

In article ,
Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be suitable?
Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ

Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's not 24w per led. It's 24w in total

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 24/11/19 10:48, charles wrote:
In article ,
Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be suitable?
Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ

Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's not 24w per led. It's 24w in total

I know. That still equates to a couple of thousand lumens assuming
around 80 lumens/w for a typical "domestic" led.

--

Jeff

In article , Jeff Layman
wrote:
On 24/11/19 10:48, charles wrote:
In article , Jeff Layman
wrote:
On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I
could power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the
gate's shut they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power
requirement of the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of
the gate is good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be
suitable? Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ

Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's not 24w per led. It's 24w in total

I know. That still equates to a couple of thousand lumens assuming
around 80 lumens/w for a typical "domestic" led.

Have you been to Bill's property?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Sun 24/11/2019 13:10, charles wrote:
In article , Jeff Layman
wrote:
On 24/11/19 10:48, charles wrote:
In article , Jeff Layman
wrote:
On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I
could power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the
gate's shut they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power
requirement of the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of
the gate is good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be
suitable? Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ

Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's not 24w per led. It's 24w in total

I know. That still equates to a couple of thousand lumens assuming
around 80 lumens/w for a typical "domestic" led.

Have you been to Bill's property?

The problem with so much bright lighting is that people will mistake it
for the pub next door and keep driving into and damaging his gate!

--
Woody

harrogate three at ntlworld dot com

On 24/11/2019 11:46, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 10:48, charles wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is
good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be suitable?
Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ


Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's not 24w per led. It's 24w in total

I know. That still equates to a couple of thousand lumens assuming
around 80 lumens/w for a typical "domestic" led.

It's spread across 7 metres remember.

Bill

On 24/11/19 18:54, Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 11:46, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 10:48, charles wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is
good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be suitable?
Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ


Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's not 24w per led. It's 24w in total

I know. That still equates to a couple of thousand lumens assuming
around 80 lumens/w for a typical "domestic" led.

It's spread across 7 metres remember.

Ah, that explains it. I wasn't familiar with the gates to Wright Towers.

--

Jeff

On 24/11/2019 08:49, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Have you considered whether or not ultraflexible wire might be suitable?
Such as:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01C5DBKW6/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5DBKW6& pd_rd_r=7ab77a56-bb0a-4039-b629-0fa1c8b13a41&pd_rd_w=BSR9P&pd_rd_wg=uNhTl&pf_rd_p= 6a30fab2-6ed5-4400-920a-f4b0f59e4ff9&pf_rd_r=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ&psc=1&re fRID=T3B1NZZ9C076EZM52RTQ


Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's a string of 500 LEDS that together pull 24W.

Bill

On 24/11/19 18:02, Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 08:49, Jeff Layman wrote:

Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's a string of 500 LEDS that together pull 24W.

I sure they'd look better on a Christmas Tree!

--

Jeff

On 24/11/2019 19:14, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/19 18:02, Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 08:49, Jeff Layman wrote:

Just out of interest, why do you need the leds to be so bright? Leds
using 24W would produce give thousand lumens. If you need that light
level, why not have them fixed on posts?

It's a string of 500 LEDS that together pull 24W.

I sure they'd look better on a Christmas Tree!

Could mount a tree on the gate!

Bill

Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I
could power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the
gate's shut they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power
requirement of the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of
the gate is good.

Bill

What about solar?

See BigClive's solution. Needs water proofing though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEnYRXr1_ww

--

On 24/11/2019 08:51, Ashley Booth wrote:
Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I
could power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the
gate's shut they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power
requirement of the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of
the gate is good.

Bill

What about solar?

See BigClive's solution. Needs water proofing though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEnYRXr1_ww

I started off wondering about solar but for a 12/12 hour duty cycle the
requirement would be about 0.3kWh per day. Unfortunately the gate area
doesn't get much sun. The back of the gate does face south but trees and
buildings screen it most of the time in winter.

Bill

On 24/11/2019 18:08, Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 08:51, Ashley Booth wrote:
Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I
could power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the
gate's shut they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power
requirement of the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of
the gate is good.

Bill

What about solar?

See BigClive's solution. Needs water proofing though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEnYRXr1_ww

I started off wondering about solar but for a 12/12 hour duty cycle the
requirement would be about 0.3kWh per day. Unfortunately the gate area
doesn't get much sun. The back of the gate does face south but trees and
buildings screen it most of the time in winter.

You would need a 8kW solar array, and probably 1.5kWh of storage to make
that a reliable year round proposition. So not practical on any level.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

No.
I don't think one could do this in any efficient way.
I'd have thought some kind of simple mating connection would work fine at a
low voltage. If you want them on when the gate is open but its only open for
a while then one could use a UPS on the gate with the connection connecting
the charging.
To do power transfer well seems to require HF AC at quite a high current
from what I recall. Looking at the inductive chargers for smart phones they
do seem to have a lot of electronics involved in the detection of the tuned
reception system as well. The question is, is the use case worth the hassle
of building something big enough.

Note crosspost removed to satisfy Albersani server
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"Bill Wright" wrote in message
...
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut they
are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of the
lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote

No.
I don't think one could do this in any efficient way.

Doesn’t need to be efficient with that power level.

I'd have thought some kind of simple mating connection would work fine at
a low voltage.

But with your island so soggy, even corrosion might well be tricky.

If you want them on when the gate is open but its only open for a while
then one could use a UPS on the gate with the connection connecting the
charging.

To do power transfer well seems to require HF AC at quite a high current
from what I recall. Looking at the inductive chargers for smart phones
they do seem to have a lot of electronics involved in the detection of the
tuned reception system as well.

But that wouldn’t be necessary when its just a led light.
The solar powered led lights are very simple electronically
and I can't see why the solar cell(s) cant be replaced by
the wireless power source.

The question is, is the use case worth the hassle of building something
big enough.

Yeah, I'd go for a flexible power cable at
the gate hinge end myself. They obviously
work well enough with car doors etc. Tho
that it may be not as convenient to wire up
as at the opening end of the gate for his place.

Note crosspost removed to satisfy Albersani server

Another good reason to pay peanuts for a much better server, nin.

I've restored the original list.

"Bill Wright" wrote in message
...
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they
are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of the
lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

On 24/11/2019 18:40, Rod Speed wrote:

Yeah, I'd go for a flexible power cable at
the gate hinge end myself.

It's a 7 metre sliding gate.

Bill

"Bill Wright" wrote in message
...
On 24/11/2019 18:40, Rod Speed wrote:

Yeah, I'd go for a flexible power cable at
the gate hinge end myself.

It's a 7 metre sliding gate.

Yeah, realised that after I had hit send.

On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:07:52 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


It's a 7 metre sliding gate.

Yeah, realised that after I had hit send.

I'll hit you on your senile head so often, you soon won't realize anything
anymore, senile cretin!

--
addressing nym-shifting senile Rodent:
"You on the other hand are a heavyweight bull****ter who demonstrates
your particular prowess at it every day."
MID:

This was why I said sliding contacts. Self cleaning and a handy source of
low voltage to power your radio if you are outside cutting the hedge.. grin.
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...


"Bill Wright" wrote in message
...
On 24/11/2019 18:40, Rod Speed wrote:

Yeah, I'd go for a flexible power cable at
the gate hinge end myself.

It's a 7 metre sliding gate.

Yeah, realised that after I had hit send.