On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 05:40:55 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

Another good reason to pay peanuts for a much better server, nin.

I've restored the original list.

Yep, everyone knows by now that you are trolling piece of senile Australian
****!

--
about senile Rot Speed:
"This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage."
MID:

Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

You can buy 'commodity' induction coils in the 5W to 10W range that are
intended for phone charging, rather than running the LEDs on 'live'
power, maybe you could fit a battery on the back of the gate, and let it
charge 24x7, if the gate spends a significant part of its life open,
then have two receivers, so that its powered when fully open and when
fully closed

e.g. a 5V 1A transmitter/receiver
https://www.seeedstudio.com/Wireless-Charging-Module-5V-1A-p-1912.html

a bit more googling ought to find 10W coils

I still think sliding contacts would be allot more efficient and less of a
hassle to weather proof.
Brian

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"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

You can buy 'commodity' induction coils in the 5W to 10W range that are
intended for phone charging, rather than running the LEDs on 'live' power,
maybe you could fit a battery on the back of the gate, and let it charge
24x7, if the gate spends a significant part of its life open, then have
two receivers, so that its powered when fully open and when fully closed

e.g. a 5V 1A transmitter/receiver
https://www.seeedstudio.com/Wireless-Charging-Module-5V-1A-p-1912.html

a bit more googling ought to find 10W coils

Brian Gaff wrote:

I still think sliding contacts would be allot more efficient and less of a
hassle to weather proof.

You might be right, but that's not what bill asked for.

In article ,
says...

Brian Gaff wrote:

I still think sliding contacts would be allot more efficient and less of a
hassle to weather proof.

You might be right, but that's not what bill asked for.

That doesn't mean it's not the best/simplest solution, though.

24W is a lot more poweer tha of the other LED ideas mentioned
and I would imagine that losses would increase rapidly if the
Rx/Tx spacing varied (and there has to be some play in the
sliding arrangement, no matter how good it is).

Carbon brushes would be ideal for one half of the sliding
contact arrangement.

--

Terry

Terry Casey wrote:

24W is a lot more poweer tha of the other LED ideas mentioned

But if a battery is added, then charging can be done 24 hours a day, and
the lights won't be on all the time, could be PIR or timer.

On 24/11/2019 10:14, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

I still think slidingÂ* contacts would beÂ* allot more efficient and
less of a
hassle to weather proof.

You might be right, but that's not what bill asked for.

Well, I've got an open mind. Sliding contacts would be a nice simple
solution. The positional accuracy of the gate is very good near the
wheels, so it might be possible to do something. Trouble is, if I
mounted something low down it would probably get mucky and wet.

Bill

Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote

I still think sliding contacts would be allot more efficient

But you don’t need efficiency at that power level,
particularly when it charges a batter on the gate itself.

and less of a hassle to weather proof.

imo it’s the reverse, much easier to waterproof inductive.

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

You can buy 'commodity' induction coils in the 5W to 10W range that are
intended for phone charging, rather than running the LEDs on 'live'
power, maybe you could fit a battery on the back of the gate, and let it
charge 24x7, if the gate spends a significant part of its life open, then
have two receivers, so that its powered when fully open and when fully
closed

e.g. a 5V 1A transmitter/receiver
https://www.seeedstudio.com/Wireless-Charging-Module-5V-1A-p-1912.html

a bit more googling ought to find 10W coils

On 24/11/2019 18:50, Rod Speed wrote:

imo it’s the reverse, much easier to waterproof inductive.

That makes sense.

Bill

On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 05:50:17 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


But you don¢t need efficiency at that power level,

Of COURSE, auto-contradicting senile pest! G

and less of a hassle to weather proof.

imo it¢s the reverse

Of COURSE, auto-contradicting senile pest! LOL

--
addressing nym-shifting senile Rodent:
"You on the other hand are a heavyweight bull****ter who demonstrates
your particular prowess at it every day."
MID:

On 24/11/2019 09:47, Andy Burns wrote:
Bill Wright wrote:

I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I
could power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the
gatepost and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the
gate's shut they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power
requirement of the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of
the gate is good.

You can buy 'commodity' induction coils in the 5W to 10W range that are
intended for phone charging, rather than running the LEDs on 'live'
power, maybe you could fit a battery on the back of the gate, and let it
charge 24x7, if the gate spends a significant part of its life open,
then have two receivers, so that its powered when fully open and when
fully closed

e.g. a 5V 1A transmitter/receiver
https://www.seeedstudio.com/Wireless-Charging-Module-5V-1A-p-1912.html

a bit more googling ought to find 10W coils

This seems very promising, thank you.

Bill

On 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

My electric toothbrush has a base which is connected to the mains and a
toothbrush which sits on the base to charge it. Effectively there is a
coil in the bottom of the toothbrush that charges the toothbrush battery
via a diode, and I imagine (I haven't dismantled one to find out) that
there is a similar coil in the base, though as it is connected to the
mains it will be a lot more turns of a much finer wire. When in close
proximity they form an air cored transformer, and the mains going in the
base charges the battery in the toothbrush.

In theory, a similar arrangement could light the diodes on the gate by
having one transformer coil on the gate and one on the gatepost.

There are some snags:
In order for a transformer to work (whether air cored or the more
efficient iron cored), you need alternating current going into its
primary winding. You will need either power originating from the mains
or a DC supply with an oscillator between power and transformer coil.

LEDs require DC, so you are going to need a rectifier in the gate
circuit, and unless you are prepared to put up with a 50Hz flicker it
will need to be a full wave rectifier, and ideally a smoothing capacitor
to protect the LEDs from spikes in the power input.

This is an outdoor gate, so you will have to make sure everything is
weatherproof. It can be done, but I would be inclined to look for an
alternative configuration: perhaps a battery pack for the LEDs on the
gate charged by a solar panel, and a proximity switch based on a burglar
alarm "door open" detector between gate and gate post? Or even a simple
plug and socket arrangement between gate and gatepost so that DC
arriving at the gate post gets to the LEDs on the gate when the gate is
closed and the plug and socket marry up?

Just as an aside, 24W is a lot of light from LEDs (it is roughly the
lumens equivalent to 4x60W incandescent light bulbs). Anybody shutting
the gate in the dark is going to get suddenly dazzled. Anybody opening
the gate and thus turning the previously lit LEDs off is going to find
themselves night blind for a couple of minutes.

Jim

On 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Same idea
https://www.mouser.co.uk/new/wurth-e...velopment-kit/

A FAQ suggests that the MAXIMUM spacing between coils is 10mm and damage
may occur when there is no load so when the coils are not aligned (maybe
even by a small amount) when the gate is moving the whole system may
have to be instantly switched off.

https://www.we-online.com/web/en/ele...spower_faq.php

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Same idea
https://www.mouser.co.uk/new/wurth-e...velopment-kit/

A FAQ suggests that the MAXIMUM spacing between coils is 10mm
? and damage may occur when there is no load so when the coils are
not aligned (maybe even by a small amount) when the gate is moving the
whole system may have to be instantly switched off.

Thats a lot more power than he needs tho.

https://www.we-online.com/web/en/ele...spower_faq.php

On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 04:58:18 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Same idea
https://www.mouser.co.uk/new/wurth-e...velopment-kit/

A FAQ suggests that the MAXIMUM spacing between coils is 10mm
? and damage may occur when there is no load so when the coils are
not aligned (maybe even by a small amount) when the gate is moving the
whole system may have to be instantly switched off.

That¢s a lot more power than he needs tho.

LOL You disagree again, you auto-contradicting senile pest?

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

On Sunday, 24 November 2019 04:18:56 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

Use low voltage and just use bare contacts. Rubbing ones make them self cleaning. As on tail lights of some cars. Or "lift off" electric kettles.

On 24/11/2019 04:18, Bill Wright wrote:
I want to put some LED lights on my sliding gate. I wondered if I could
power them inductively, with a power 'transmitter' fixed to the gatepost
and a power 'receiver' on the gate, positioned so when the gate's shut
they are close together and the LEDs come on. The power requirement of
the lights is 24W at 12VDC. The positional accuracy of the gate is good.

Bill

That would be quite difficult, I think, by the time everything is
weatherproofed. Mechanical coupling might be easier - motor on the
gatepost operated by microswitch coupling to a generator on the gate.

Or a hose and a water wheel.

Instead of LEDs use phosphors which are illuminated by ultra-violet
lasers. The lasers are fixed and only illuminate the phosphors when
they're in gate-closed position. Can't see the problem.

Cheers
--
Clive

Clive Arthur wrote:

Instead of LEDs use phosphors which are illuminated by ultra-violet
lasers.Â* The lasers are fixed and only illuminate the phosphors when
they're in gate-closed position. Can't see the problem.

Just coat the gate with radium paint ... simples

Andy Burns wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote:

Instead of LEDs use phosphors which are illuminated by ultra-violet
lasers.Â* The lasers are fixed and only illuminate the phosphors when
they're in gate-closed position. Can't see the problem.

Just coat the gate with radium paint ... simples


What about reflective strip on the gate and a light from a fixed location
that illuminates the strip? What is the primary purpose of illuminating the
gate with leds? Is it to make it visible to people approaching it, or for
the lights on the gate to illuminate the surrounding area?

On 24/11/2019 18:30, Tweed wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote:

Instead of LEDs use phosphors which are illuminated by ultra-violet
lasers.Â* The lasers are fixed and only illuminate the phosphors when
they're in gate-closed position. Can't see the problem.

Just coat the gate with radium paint ... simples


What about reflective strip on the gate and a light from a fixed location
that illuminates the strip? What is the primary purpose of illuminating the
gate with leds? Is it to make it visible to people approaching it, or for
the lights on the gate to illuminate the surrounding area?

Replying to Andy and Tweed. I did wonder about a reflective strip. The
purpose of the illumination is
1. To have some fun
2. So I can see if the gate's closed without looking on the CCTV (it's
in a dark place)
3. To reduce the chance of a vehicle hitting the gate.

Bill

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 19:10:59 +0000, Bill Wright
wrote:

On 24/11/2019 18:30, Tweed wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
Clive Arthur wrote:

Instead of LEDs use phosphors which are illuminated by ultra-violet
lasers.* The lasers are fixed and only illuminate the phosphors when
they're in gate-closed position. Can't see the problem.

Just coat the gate with radium paint ... simples


What about reflective strip on the gate and a light from a fixed location
that illuminates the strip? What is the primary purpose of illuminating the
gate with leds? Is it to make it visible to people approaching it, or for
the lights on the gate to illuminate the surrounding area?

Replying to Andy and Tweed. I did wonder about a reflective strip. The
purpose of the illumination is
1. To have some fun
2. So I can see if the gate's closed without looking on the CCTV (it's
in a dark place)
3. To reduce the chance of a vehicle hitting the gate.

Bill
I was going to suggest a series of
reflectors/light-guides/fibre-optics illuminated from one 24W light
source when the gate is closed. Anyway a roadsign type of
retro-reflector would pick up the vehicle's headlights.
--
Dave W

On 24/11/2019 17:56, Clive Arthur wrote:

That would be quite difficult, I think, by the time everything is
weatherproofed. Mechanical coupling might be easier - motor on the
gatepost operated by microswitch coupling to a generator on the gate.

You've given me an idea. An extra wheel running on the gate rail turning
a generator!

Bill

Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 17:56, Clive Arthur wrote:

That would be quite difficult, I think, by the time everything is
weatherproofed. Mechanical coupling might be easier - motor on the
gatepost operated by microswitch coupling to a generator on the gate.

You've given me an idea. An extra wheel running on the gate rail turning
a generator!


Acquiring a Bicycle wheel with a hub dynamo could be a solution for that
method, or just fix an old style bottle dynamo to the gate so that its
wheel rubs the rail.

With all your aerial experience cant you fix one on the gate to get some
energy from Radio 4 long wave or something.

GH

"Marland" wrote in message
...
Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 17:56, Clive Arthur wrote:

That would be quite difficult, I think, by the time everything is
weatherproofed. Mechanical coupling might be easier - motor on the
gatepost operated by microswitch coupling to a generator on the gate.

You've given me an idea. An extra wheel running on the gate rail turning
a generator!


Acquiring a Bicycle wheel with a hub dynamo could be a solution for
that
method, or just fix an old style bottle dynamo to the gate so that its
wheel rubs the rail.

With all your aerial experience cant you fix one on the gate
to get some energy from Radio 4 long wave or something.

Nothing even remotely like enough energy that way.

On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 13:11:28 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

Acquiring a Bicycle wheel with a hub dynamo could be a solution for
that
method, or just fix an old style bottle dynamo to the gate so that its
wheel rubs the rail.

With all your aerial experience can¢t you fix one on the gate
to get some energy from Radio 4 long wave or something.

Nothing even remotely like enough energy that way.

That's not for a clinically insane senile know-it-all like you to decide,
senile pest!

--
The Natural Philosopher about senile Rot:
"Rod speed is not a Brexiteer. He is an Australian troll and arsehole."
Message-ID:

On 25/11/2019 01:01, Marland wrote:
Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 17:56, Clive Arthur wrote:

That would be quite difficult, I think, by the time everything is
weatherproofed. Mechanical coupling might be easier - motor on the
gatepost operated by microswitch coupling to a generator on the gate.

You've given me an idea. An extra wheel running on the gate rail turning
a generator!


Acquiring a Bicycle wheel with a hub dynamo could be a solution for that
method, or just fix an old style bottle dynamo to the gate so that its
wheel rubs the rail.

With all your aerial experience cant you fix one on the gate to get some
energy from Radio 4 long wave or something.

GH


It's a pity it isn't possible to rectify UHF with a diode, because the
gate has clear sight of Emley Moor.

Bill

"Bill Wright" wrote in message
...
On 25/11/2019 01:01, Marland wrote:
Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2019 17:56, Clive Arthur wrote:

That would be quite difficult, I think, by the time everything is
weatherproofed. Mechanical coupling might be easier - motor on the
gatepost operated by microswitch coupling to a generator on the gate.

You've given me an idea. An extra wheel running on the gate rail turning
a generator!


Acquiring a Bicycle wheel with a hub dynamo could be a solution for
that
method, or just fix an old style bottle dynamo to the gate so that its
wheel rubs the rail.

With all your aerial experience cant you fix one on the gate to get
some
energy from Radio 4 long wave or something.

GH


It's a pity it isn't possible to rectify UHF with a diode, because the
gate has clear sight of Emley Moor.

Wouldnt get enough power that way even if you could rectify UHF with a
diode.

On 24/11/2019 17:56, Clive Arthur wrote:
Or a hose and a water wheel.

That's the way to do it. Heath Robinson would be proud of you...

recirculating pump on the gate post so there's a continuous stream of water.

Water wheel and generator on the gate so it intercepts the stream when
the gate is closed.

We'll all want it in the DIY FAQ... probably under humour

Andy