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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi All
I am fitting a new bathroom sink. I usually do this by fitting an isolation valve (one where you turn it on / off with a flat head screwdriver) between the incoming supply (terminated with a tap connector) and the flexible hose to the tap. I am having trouble with one that constantly leaks no matter what I do. The tap connector side is fine but the connection with the flexible hose leaks. I have so far tried the following 1. The tap and hose came with a filter type rubber washer so used that first 2. Tried replacing that washer with a normal flat rubber washer 3. Put PTFE tape on the thread and used the washer. All options still result in a leak. It looks like it is coming from the centre of the nut (as opposed to the thread) but can't be sure. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks Lee |
#2
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I cannot quite picture your arrangement but if you are connecting your flexible tap connector directly on to the isolator valve then I am not surprised you are experiencing leakage problems. The isolator has connections that involve the use of an olive to provide the water tight seal the end of the thread has a chamfer on the inside to mate with an olive whilst the very end does not have a flat surface to mate with anything tending to be rather sharp too.
What I suspect you need is something like these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-bra...x-2-pack/2665r The plain end goes in your compression fitting on the isolator with an olive off course and your tap connector on the threaded end with the rubber washer you mentioned initially. A link to a photo of what you have got would help Richard |
#3
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Sorry Richard should have mentioned that I file the ends of the isolation valve flat before fitting. Wonder if this one I didn't do it enough. Will take a look at your fitting sounds like it is just the job although I hate compression fittings as mine take several attempts before they are sealed
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#4
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Lee Nowell wrote:
Sorry Richard should have mentioned that I file the ends of the isolation valve flat before fitting. You can get combined flexible tab connector with isolator ... |
#5
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On 09/11/2019 16:35, Lee Nowell wrote:
Sorry Richard should have mentioned that I file the ends of the isolation valve flat before fitting. Wonder if this one I didn't do it enough. Will take a look at your fitting sounds like it is just the job although I hate compression fittings as mine take several attempts before they are sealed ![]() Nobody seen these? Made for the job. https://www.toolstation.com/tap-tail-adaptors/p14081 -- Dave The Medway Handyman |
#6
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On 09/11/2019 16:35, Lee Nowell wrote:
Sorry Richard should have mentioned that I file the ends of the isolation valve flat before fitting. Wonder if this one I didn't do it enough. Will take a look at your fitting sounds like it is just the job although I hate compression fittings as mine take several attempts before they are sealed ![]() Nobody used these? Made for the job. https://www.toolstation.com/tap-tail-adaptors/p14081 -- Dave The Medway Handyman |
#7
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On 09/11/2019 15:37, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I cannot quite picture your arrangement but if you are connecting your flexible tap connector directly on to the isolator valve then I am not surprised you are experiencing leakage problems. The isolator has connections that involve the use of an olive to provide the water tight seal the end of the thread has a chamfer on the inside to mate with an olive whilst the very end does not have a flat surface to mate with anything tending to be rather sharp too. Conversely I always use a normal full bore service valve with the backnut and olive removed to mate with the flexi connector, and have never had a leak. So long as the end of the valve is smooth and continuous, then it should seal against the flat washer. A narrower cross section just means it will seal with less torque. I think in the OPs case I would replace the flexi. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#9
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![]() The tread is never part of the seal. The seal is the rubber washer (Probably damaged by overtightening) or an olive - but never the thread. |
#10
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John wrote:
The tread is never part of the seal. The seal is the rubber washer (Probably damaged by overtightening) or an olive - but never the thread. Except, of course, when it is. Quite common with brass, 'iron' or mild steel fittings to similar metal fittings or pipes. -- Roger Hayter |
#11
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(Roger Hayter) wrote in news:1ogug0g.qrw7lapelwpkN%
: John wrote: The tread is never part of the seal. The seal is the rubber washer (Probably damaged by overtightening) or an olive - but never the thread. Except, of course, when it is. Quite common with brass, 'iron' or mild steel fittings to similar metal fittings or pipes. Of course - but the use of PTFE tape on everything with a thread is not the solution to leaks. Most domestic modern applications - other than radiator tails will not use the fittings you suggest. |
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