Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible, insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

TIA

has brought this to us :
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which
automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base opens
to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical ribbon cable
connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the electrics in the
flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished and
come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as the units
are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper wires may either
short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible, insulative
coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

TIA

Wouldn't be flexible but only think that comes to mind is a blob of
hot-melt glue on the bare conductors?

wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera
which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the
base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A
electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera
to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished
and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as
the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper
wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

TIA


You could try a thin layer of neutral cure clear silicone.

Being neutral cure, it shouldnt harm the copper etc. Being clear, you can
see the wires are kept apart as you apply it.

On 19/10/2019 20:09, wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible, insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

varnish



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

wrote in message
...
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which
automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base
opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical
ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the
electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished
and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as
the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper
wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close
together?

Sugru.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 07:00:52 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Sugru.

Shove it up your senile troll arse, senile Rodent!

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed:
"You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad
little ignorant ****."
MID:

wrote:

Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which
automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base
opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical
ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the
electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished
and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as
the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper
wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close
together?

TIA

I had this problem with an Ereagle cameral. In the end I checked the
type number on the ribbon cable, which specifies the thickness and
pitch, and measured the length and number of ways; and found 100 of
them for about 5 quid on Alibaba. They are about 1cm longer than the
original, but this is easlly accommodated at one end.

(I doubt if they fit yours but they are 100Pcs AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1
230 x 0.5mm 26 Pin FFC . I also have a couple of the same thing 8" long
which were too short for my application. You would be welcome to a
couple if they did fit)

--

Roger Hayter

Roger Hayter wrote:

wrote:

Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which
automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base
opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical
ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the
electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished
and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as
the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper
wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close
together?

TIA

I had this problem with an Ereagle cameral. In the end I checked the
type number on the ribbon cable, which specifies the thickness and
pitch, and measured the length and number of ways; and found 100 of
them for about 5 quid on Alibaba. They are about 1cm longer than the
original, but this is easlly accommodated at one end.

(I doubt if they fit yours but they are 100Pcs AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1
230 x 0.5mm 26 Pin FFC . I also have a couple of the same thing 8" long
which were too short for my application. You would be welcome to a
couple if they did fit)

Actually I was mistaken, it was Amazon marketplace I got them. But I
just put ""AWM 20624" price uk" into Google and sifted the results for
length etc.

--

Roger Hayter

On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 10:12:14 PM UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:

snip

Actually I was mistaken, it was Amazon marketplace I got them. But I
just put ""AWM 20624" price uk" into Google and sifted the results for
length etc.

--

Roger Hayter

Thanks for the offer but I do not think they would be suitable. Plus I can not access any plug at the end of the cable as the wires disappear inside sealed units both ends.

On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 9:01:04 PM UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
wrote in message
...

snip


Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close
together?

Sugru.

Looks like pretty cool stuff. I can think of a couple of jobs for it. Thanks.

On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 8:25:57 PM UTC+1, Brian Reay wrote:

snip


You could try a thin layer of neutral cure clear silicone.

Being neutral cure, it shouldnt harm the copper etc. Being clear, you can
see the wires are kept apart as you apply it.

Clever thinking on it being clear, but pretty messy to apply I would guess.

wrote:

On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 10:12:14 PM UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:

snip

Actually I was mistaken, it was Amazon marketplace I got them. But I
just put ""AWM 20624" price uk" into Google and sifted the results for
length etc.

--

Roger Hayter

Thanks for the offer but I do not think they would be suitable. Plus I can
not access any plug at the end of the cable as the wires disappear inside
sealed units both ends.

That which i sealed can be unsealed! Though if you are not comfortable
dismantling it that would be a problem.

--

Roger Hayter

On 19/10/2019 20:09, wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera
which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on
the base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A
electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the
camera to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely
perished and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not
possible as the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried
that the copper wires may either short out or become damaged when the
lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are
close together?

I was going to say epoxy...but you really need a rubber dont you?

IIRC there is some electrical potting compound that is flexible

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/produ...erce-_-1608481


TIA



--
"Nature does not give up the winter because people dislike the cold."

ۥ Confucius

On 19/10/2019 23:20, wrote:
On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 9:01:04 PM UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:


Sugru.

Looks like pretty cool stuff. I can think of a couple of jobs for it. Thanks.


But it probably sets rock hard and the flexi wire no longer bends.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 19/10/2019 20:09, wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Any chance of a photo showing the problem?


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 19/10/2019 23:20, wrote:
On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 9:01:04 PM UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:


Sugru.

Looks like pretty cool stuff. I can think of a couple of jobs for it.
Thanks.


But it probably sets rock hard

No it doesnt.

and the flexi wire no longer bends.

Nope.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 18:16:52 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


But it probably sets rock hard

No it doesn¢t.

LOL

and the flexi wire no longer bends.

Nope.

LOL

In auto-contradicting mode again, you clinically insane auto-contradicting
senile ASSHOLE? LOL

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

So is this really wire or one of those printed circuit flexible couplings as
you get on the end of keyboard membranes. If it is the latter, I'd suggest
its not repairable, but otherwise it depends on how far apart the wires are
and whether you might be able to get in with some electrical lacquer of some
kind.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Paddy Dzell" wrote in message ...
has brought this to us :
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera
which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the
base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A
electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera
to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished
and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as
the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper
wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are
close together?

TIA

Wouldn't be flexible but only think that comes to mind is a blob of
hot-melt glue on the bare conductors?

On 19/10/2019 20:09, wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible, insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

TIA


Check out Julian Ilett's Youtube videos on his solar battery charge
controllers. He's tried pretty much all the above suggestions (esp.
silicone, hot-melt glue, etc) and the only thing that has lasted
long-term through all weathers is UV-settable resin. But it's not flexible.

--
Reentrant

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 07:38:16 +0100, alan_m wrote:

Sugru.

Looks like pretty cool stuff. I can think of a couple of jobs for
it.

But it probably sets rock hard and the flexi wire no longer bends.

No Sugru stays soft but not as soft as a thin layer of silicone. It's
also opaque and quite firm before curing. Neutral cure clear silicone
is far softer before curing and far more flexible/robust when cured.

Not quite sure what "... the insulation of the ribbon cable has
completely perished and come away." actually means. PVC is normally
very stable but doesn't like UV from sunlight.

It's also not clear if the controls/screen are on the flap, thus the
cable has to flex with the hinge or if the controls/screen are merely
covered by the flap. A photo or three would be very useful.

Other things a PCB "conformal coating", sprys or paint on with small
brush. Flexible to some extent but won'ttake repeated flexing. Or
maybe pot the whole in "Magic Gel" from Raytech.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Saturday, 19 October 2019 20:09:23 UTC+1, wrote:


Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible, insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warp_and_weft : consider the copper as warp, and use cotton or thread as the weft woven into it, positioned with a needle and a steady hand. That provides both separation and insulation. Perhaps, use one or two extra warp strands on each edge, adding strength. Push the weft strands together as you go, so that there is continuous coverage.

The sort of glue that comes (came?) in bicycle puncture repair outfits _should_ dry flexible. If so, it could be applied over and into the weft.

Note that it would have been useful to give numeric values for "fine" and "close".

Of course, you will test this on a facsimile of the real thing.

--
(c) John Stockton, near London, UK. Using Google Groups. |
Mail: - or as Reply-To, if any. |

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 07:38:16 +0100, alan_m wrote:

Sugru.

Looks like pretty cool stuff. I can think of a couple of jobs for
it.

But it probably sets rock hard and the flexi wire no longer bends.

No Sugru stays soft but not as soft as a thin layer of silicone. It's
also opaque and quite firm before curing. Neutral cure clear silicone
is far softer before curing and far more flexible/robust when cured.

Not quite sure what "... the insulation of the ribbon cable has
completely perished and come away." actually means. PVC is normally
very stable but doesn't like UV from sunlight.

It's also not clear if the controls/screen are on the flap, thus the
cable has to flex with the hinge or if the controls/screen are merely
covered by the flap. A photo or three would be very useful.

Other things a PCB "conformal coating", sprys or paint on with small
brush. Flexible to some extent but won'ttake repeated flexing. Or
maybe pot the whole in "Magic Gel" from Raytech.


Conformal coating, such as Humiseal, would be a good choice if he can get
hold of some. Ive never tried to buy it privately/over the counter, it
came across it professionally- it was used to coat PCBs as you say. PCBs
are normally dipped or sprayed but reworked areas are touched up by hand
with a brush.

The older stuff was, I believe considered hazardous but I think a newer
version ( with a safer solvent) was introduced.

On Sunday, October 20, 2019 at 9:47:30 AM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
So is this really wire or one of those printed circuit flexible couplings as
you get on the end of keyboard membranes. If it is the latter, I'd suggest
its not repairable, but otherwise it depends on how far apart the wires are
and whether you might be able to get in with some electrical lacquer of some
kind.
Brian

It is wire.

On Sunday, October 20, 2019 at 11:49:05 AM UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 07:38:16 +0100, alan_m wrote:

Sugru.

Looks like pretty cool stuff. I can think of a couple of jobs for
it.

But it probably sets rock hard and the flexi wire no longer bends.

No Sugru stays soft but not as soft as a thin layer of silicone. It's
also opaque and quite firm before curing. Neutral cure clear silicone
is far softer before curing and far more flexible/robust when cured.

Not quite sure what "... the insulation of the ribbon cable has
completely perished and come away." actually means. PVC is normally
very stable but doesn't like UV from sunlight.


Opened it up after a few months in storage to find the wires bare and what had seemed to be conventional insulation now powder.

It's also not clear if the controls/screen are on the flap, thus the
cable has to flex with the hinge or if the controls/screen are merely
covered by the flap. A photo or three would be very useful.

Yes the screen and controls are in the flap and the wires bend with the hinge. I will think about where to post photos.


Other things a PCB "conformal coating", sprys or paint on with small
brush. Flexible to some extent but won'ttake repeated flexing. Or
maybe pot the whole in "Magic Gel" from Raytech.


Only thing I know about magic gel is the youtube video I just watched, but I can not see how to get just the wires in the gloop.

On Sunday, October 20, 2019 at 12:48:01 AM UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
wrote:

On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 10:12:14 PM UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:

snip

Actually I was mistaken, it was Amazon marketplace I got them. But I
just put ""AWM 20624" price uk" into Google and sifted the results for
length etc.

--

Roger Hayter

Thanks for the offer but I do not think they would be suitable. Plus I can
not access any plug at the end of the cable as the wires disappear inside
sealed units both ends.

That which i sealed can be unsealed! Though if you are not comfortable
dismantling it that would be a problem.

--

Roger Hayter

I do not think I can without causing damage.

On Sunday, October 20, 2019 at 11:21:12 AM UTC+1, Reentrant wrote:
On 19/10/2019 20:09, wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible, insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

TIA


Check out Julian Ilett's Youtube videos on his solar battery charge
controllers. He's tried pretty much all the above suggestions (esp.
silicone, hot-melt glue, etc) and the only thing that has lasted
long-term through all weathers is UV-settable resin. But it's not flexible.

--
Reentrant

Thanks for your repley. Mostly the flap is closed the wires are protected from the sun and weather.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 12:58:45 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay wrote:

Other things a PCB "conformal coating", sprys or paint on with
small
brush. Flexible to some extent but won'ttake repeated flexing. Or
maybe pot the whole in "Magic Gel" from Raytech.

Conformal coating, such as Humiseal, would be a good choice if he can
get hold of some. I ve never tried to buy it privately/over the
counter, it came across it professionally-

CPC, Rapid, eBay... have Electrolube HPA (High Perfomance Acrylic)
conformal coating. I've used it to protect the components and PCB
inside a tiping bucket rain guage. Other conformal coatings are
available based on other materials like silicone.

Further info from the OP indicates that the wires have to flex at
least 90 degrees and I expct in quite a short distance. Not sure HPA
would be up to that, other formulations might be.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 13:32:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

That which i sealed can be unsealed!

Quite, someone or something put it togetehr it *must* come apart.
It's just a case of working out how it was assembled and how to
reverse that.

Though if you are not comfortable dismantling it that would be a
problem.

I do not think I can without causing damage.

If the case halves are glued or friction welded a certain amount of
damage is inevitable but once you got a start on such joints you can
often just slide something from the start and the joint will open.
Resealing afterwards either polystrene cement (for ABS cases) or self
amalgamating tape or even agood quality and slightly stretched
electrical insulation tape.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 13:30:46 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Opened it up after a few months in storage to find the wires bare and
what had seemed to be conventional insulation now powder.

That's a bit weird. What other items was it stored with? Thinking
that "something" from other items has attacked the insulation, can't
think what tho'.

Yes the screen and controls are in the flap and the wires bend with the
hinge. I will think about where to post photos.

So whatever solution is found has to cope flexing at least 90 degrees
over justa few mm.

Other things a PCB "conformal coating", sprys or paint on with
small
brush. Flexible to some extent but won'ttake repeated flexing. Or
maybe pot the whole in "Magic Gel" from Raytech.

Only thing I know about magic gel is the youtube video I just watched,
but I can not see how to get just the wires in the gloop.

It would be difficult to pot the wires but you might be able to paint
them with Magic Gel. It's sort of "warm clear honey" viscosity when
mixed and cures soft, elastic, flexable and translucent. If it
doesn't want to stick to everything and form strings when trying to
paint with it it could be the stuff to use. I only used it to pot up
a 3 stage voltage doubler so just poured it, don't have a memory of
it forming a string when stopping pouring.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 13:30:46 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Opened it up after a few months in storage to find the wires bare and
what had seemed to be conventional insulation now powder.

That's a bit weird. What other items was it stored with? Thinking
that "something" from other items has attacked the insulation, can't
think what tho'.

The exposed part of the printed ribbon cable (I presume the same as the
OP's) disintegrated in storage too, although to a goo rather than a
powder. I am sure no secondary coating would adequately separate and
support the naked 26 printed 'wires', let alon flex adequately. My only
theory is vapour or liquid from slightly leaking AA alkaline cells gets
at the coating. Since I replaced the ribbon cable I don't leave the
batteries in!

Spares are available (though I obviously don't know if the OP's model
has spares):

https://pakatak.co.uk/product/ltl-ac...-ribbon-cable/

Photos suggest it screws together;

https://www.ronburyswildlife.com/201...n-display.html

So I would recommend to the OP he either replaces it himself or finds
someone, ? a maker club or something, who can. I suspect the ribbon
cables are much cheaper on the general Internet than as specific spares,
if you can find one.

PS I think I may have the two little acorn ones I purchased in error, if
they are the same as the differently branded ones I bought with
identical model numbers. They cost me 24GBP but I would happily take a
loss if they are useful. Just need the AWM number printed on them and
the length. Purchased before I realised how many similar looking trail
camera brands are around, many being approximate copies rather than
badge engineering.



Yes the screen and controls are in the flap and the wires bend with the
hinge. I will think about where to post photos.

So whatever solution is found has to cope flexing at least 90 degrees
over justa few mm.

Other things a PCB "conformal coating", sprys or paint on with
small
brush. Flexible to some extent but won'ttake repeated flexing. Or
maybe pot the whole in "Magic Gel" from Raytech.

Only thing I know about magic gel is the youtube video I just watched,
but I can not see how to get just the wires in the gloop.

It would be difficult to pot the wires but you might be able to paint
them with Magic Gel. It's sort of "warm clear honey" viscosity when
mixed and cures soft, elastic, flexable and translucent. If it
doesn't want to stick to everything and form strings when trying to
paint with it it could be the stuff to use. I only used it to pot up
a 3 stage voltage doubler so just poured it, don't have a memory of
it forming a string when stopping pouring.


--

Roger Hayter

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 13:32:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

That which i sealed can be unsealed!

Quite, someone or something put it togetehr it *must* come apart.
It's just a case of working out how it was assembled and how to
reverse that.

Though if you are not comfortable dismantling it that would be a
problem.

I do not think I can without causing damage.

If the case halves are glued or friction welded a certain amount of
damage is inevitable but once you got a start on such joints you can
often just slide something from the start and the joint will open.
Resealing afterwards either polystrene cement (for ABS cases) or self
amalgamating tape or even agood quality and slightly stretched
electrical insulation tape.

Judging by my camera and the photo (see URL in my other post) they come
apart with cross head screws, plus very careful remove of PCB flying
lead plugs. Mine had rubber seals rather than glue.

--

Roger Hayter

wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera
which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the
base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A
electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera
to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished
and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as
the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper
wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible,
insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

TIA

You dont say what model of little acorn you have but it sounds the same as
mine.
It is fiddly but you can dismantle the unit and replace the cable.
Spares available from the importers for the UK.

https://pakatak.co.uk/product-catego...n-spare-parts/

If you are not confident they also offer a repair service as does this chap
who built up some knowledge on the
little acorns.

https://www.ronburyswildlife.com/p/c...l-support.html

Best ring first or email as ISTR he had health issues a while back and may
not be as active as he once was.

GH

On 20/10/2019 23:41, Dave Liquorice wrote:
someone or something put it togetehr it*must* come apart.

Simple minds.

solvent weld?


--
€œI know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the
greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most
obvious truth if it be such as would oblige them to admit the falsity of
conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, which
they have proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by
thread, into the fabric of their lives.€�

ۥ Leo Tolstoy

How about hair fix spray. They Will evaporate and hold the Wires together. Or one may try spray bandage stuff, once dry they seal and hold firm.

On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 8:09:23 PM UTC+1, wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam.

Thanks everyone for your help. I have decided to be brave and try to take it apart. If I can get the old ribbon cable out without breaking anything then Pakatak sell a spare. I will update you all with success/problems as they occur.

On Monday, October 21, 2019 at 12:58:59 AM UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:


PS I think I may have the two little acorn ones I purchased in error, if
they are the same as the differently branded ones I bought with
identical model numbers. They cost me 24GBP but I would happily take a
loss if they are useful. Just need the AWM number printed on them and
the length. Purchased before I realised how many similar looking trail
camera brands are around, many being approximate copies rather than
badge engineering.


If I find out the AWM number I will let you know. Thanks.

On 22/10/2019 00:27, wrote:
On Saturday, October 19, 2019 at 8:09:23 PM UTC+1, wrote:
Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam.

Thanks everyone for your help. I have decided to be brave and try to take it apart. If I can get the old ribbon cable out without breaking anything then Pakatak sell a spare. I will update you all with success/problems as they occur.


The connector to the cable will probably be the type with a clip. Use a
watchmakers screwdriver/tweezers/cocktail stick to move the clip forward
on both sides by around 1mm to release the cable which can then be
pulled out.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 21/10/2019 00:01, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 20 Oct 2019 13:30:46 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Opened it up after a few months in storage to find the wires bare and
what had seemed to be conventional insulation now powder.

That's a bit weird. What other items was it stored with? Thinking
that "something" from other items has attacked the insulation, can't
think what tho'.

snip

Polystyrene and PVC don't mix well, the plasticiser can migrate from the
PVC.

Cheers
--
Clive

wrote:

I have decided to be brave and try to take it apart.

If you break it, aldi have them tomorrow ...

https://www.aldi.co.uk/wildlife-camera/p/020702299474200

Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

I have decided to be brave and try to take it apart.

If you break it, aldi have them tomorrow ...

https://www.aldi.co.uk/wildlife-camera/p/020702299474200


And if you miss those then Lidl a week later.

https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/outdoor-...-camera/p26591

Though it is a very basic less well specced model than the Aldi one , or
indeed the one Lidl usually do
which gave results equal to my Little Acorn.


GH