Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/fo...hread.php?tid=
7463

or: https://tinyurl.com/gvr-13a

Any comments from the experts here?

--

Terry

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point. I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

At 13A for 1 hour a UK socket gets really rather hot. The sort of thing
that can happen when you have a 3kW fan heater in a very cold room. I
have seen moulded extension blocks melt or deform under such loads.

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point. I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

Ideally you want a custom circuit dedicated to a charger - much like
running a welding set or similarly brutal high current device.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 12:09:52 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote:

On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

At 13A for 1 hour a UK socket gets really rather hot. The sort of thing
that can happen when you have a 3kW fan heater in a very cold room. I
have seen moulded extension blocks melt or deform under such loads.

Are they not sometimes 10 Amps?

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point. I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

Ideally you want a custom circuit dedicated to a charger - much like
running a welding set or similarly brutal high current device.

That's what my brother has.

On 03/06/2019 12:09, Martin Brown wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

At 13A for 1 hour a UK socket gets really rather hot. The sort of thing
that can happen when you have a 3kW fan heater in a very cold room. I
have seen moulded extension blocks melt or deform under such loads.

Cheap extensions often do, but a decent plug and socket don't and
neither does a decent extension lead.

The trouble is that local shops will only stock the cheap stuff and most
people won't know any better and won't go to the trouble of sourcing
decent equipment or even better, the parts to make up their own,
dedicated lead.

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point.Â* I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

Ideally you want a custom circuit dedicated to a charger - much like
running a welding set or similarly brutal high current device.

In my case, I might well repurpose the cooker circuit. We use gas these
days and on the opposite side of the kitchen to where the electric
cooker used to be - and due to getting a good length of free cable whenb
I was first wiring it, we have an unused cooker point fed from a 20+'
length of 16mm2 T&E and its own MCB.

SteveW

On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 16:00:30 +0100, Steve Walker
wrote:

On 03/06/2019 12:09, Martin Brown wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

At 13A for 1 hour a UK socket gets really rather hot. The sort of thing
that can happen when you have a 3kW fan heater in a very cold room. I
have seen moulded extension blocks melt or deform under such loads.

Cheap extensions often do, but a decent plug and socket don't and
neither does a decent extension lead.

The trouble is that local shops will only stock the cheap stuff and most
people won't know any better and won't go to the trouble of sourcing
decent equipment or even better, the parts to make up their own,
dedicated lead.

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point.* I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

Ideally you want a custom circuit dedicated to a charger - much like
running a welding set or similarly brutal high current device.

In my case, I might well repurpose the cooker circuit. We use gas these
days and on the opposite side of the kitchen to where the electric
cooker used to be - and due to getting a good length of free cable whenb
I was first wiring it, we have an unused cooker point fed from a 20+'
length of 16mm2 T&E and its own MCB.

Is there not talk of gas being banned?

On 03/06/2019 16:00, Steve Walker wrote:
On 03/06/2019 12:09, Martin Brown wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

At 13A for 1 hour a UK socket gets really rather hot. The sort of
thing that can happen when you have a 3kW fan heater in a very cold
room. I have seen moulded extension blocks melt or deform under such
loads.

Cheap extensions often do, but a decent plug and socket don't and
neither does a decent extension lead.

The fuse can be dissipating a few watts on its own at 13A. The plug
always gets warm to the touch - a good quality socket should not.

The trouble is that local shops will only stock the cheap stuff and most
people won't know any better and won't go to the trouble of sourcing
decent equipment or even better, the parts to make up their own,
dedicated lead.

Increasingly portable equipment is power limited to 2.4kW because of
this. Even the good sockets eventually go bad if the internal contacts
become corroded. I have seen some horrors inside damp penetrated walls
with crystals of copper sulphate growing on them.

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point.Â* I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

Ideally you want a custom circuit dedicated to a charger - much like
running a welding set or similarly brutal high current device.

In my case, I might well repurpose the cooker circuit. We use gas these
days and on the opposite side of the kitchen to where the electric
cooker used to be - and due to getting a good length of free cable whenb
I was first wiring it, we have an unused cooker point fed from a 20+'
length of 16mm2 T&E and its own MCB.
I reckon a dedicated 32A circuit is the way to go.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 03/06/2019 12:09, Martin Brown wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

At 13A for 1 hour a UK socket gets really rather hot. The sort of thing
that can happen when you have a 3kW fan heater in a very cold room. I
have seen moulded extension blocks melt or deform under such loads.

I've seen a lot of worrying things after having electric heaters plugged
in for long periods at work.

It's presumably why it's one of the questions our insurer asks, 'do you
use portable heating?'

On 03/06/2019 17:21, R D S wrote:
On 03/06/2019 12:09, Martin Brown wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

At 13A for 1 hour a UK socket gets really rather hot. The sort of
thing that can happen when you have a 3kW fan heater in a very cold
room. I have seen moulded extension blocks melt or deform under such
loads.

I've seen a lot of worrying things after having electric heaters plugged
in for long periods at work.

It's presumably why it's one of the questions our insurer asks, 'do you
use portable heating?'

Probably more a case of fire risk if a heater is knocked over or has
something put in front or even on it.

Sockets can get fairly warm with no risk of overheating.

SteveW

On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point. I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

My PHEV came with two cables: one for use with 13A sockets and one for
use with Type 2 public charge points. I've never used the first, but it
has a few current settings. In practice I've always used a dedicated
Rolec charge point at home, which is fed from a 32A MCB and has an
attached cable. The max current my car will charge at is 16A, but there
are some surprising charge currents mentioned he
https://www.zap-map.com/charge-point...ectors-speeds/

wrote in :

https://www.zap-map.com/charge-point...ectors-speeds/

I hadn't realised that the car takes AC.. How does it work with 3phase
?

On 03/06/2019 15:20, DerbyBorn wrote:
wrote in :

https://www.zap-map.com/charge-point...ectors-speeds/

I hadn't realised that the car takes AC.. How does it work with 3phase
?

There isn't much tech info available but my guess is that there's the
usual 3-phase rectifier to a DC bus and then an inverter to generate
whatever is needed to charge the battery. I vaguely recall that the HV
battery in my car operates at 130V, but I can't find the info to confirm
that.

On 03/06/2019 15:20, DerbyBorn wrote:
wrote in :

https://www.zap-map.com/charge-point...ectors-speeds/

I hadn't realised that the car takes AC.. How does it work with 3phase
?

Three phase installations are available.

Three phase EV's are plugged into the socket next to the steaming mound
of rocking horse ****.


--
Adam

On 03/06/2019 14:28, wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point.Â* I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

My PHEV came with two cables: one for use with 13A sockets and one for
use with Type 2 public charge points. I've never used the first, but it
has a few current settings. In practice I've always used a dedicated
Rolec charge point at home, which is fed from a 32A MCB and has an
attached cable. The max current my car will charge at is 16A, but there
are some surprising charge currents mentioned he
https://www.zap-map.com/charge-point...ectors-speeds/

Thanks for the above link. I was trying to work out the range extend
capability of the couple of chargers I saw on a motorway service station
last week but to no avail. They were remarkably vague about the power
levels only that pacemaker users should stand well back.

How does the actual range on a fully charged (or 80% charged) battery
compare with the from new range and specification after a year or two of
regular use? Talking here mileages around 300/week?

How much of a difference does regenerative breaking make? Is it actually
worthwhile or just another feature for salesmen to blather on about?

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 04/06/2019 13:36, Martin Brown wrote:
On 03/06/2019 14:28, wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point.Â* I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

My PHEV came with two cables: one for use with 13A sockets and one for
use with Type 2 public charge points. I've never used the first, but
it has a few current settings. In practice I've always used a
dedicated Rolec charge point at home, which is fed from a 32A MCB and
has an attached cable. The max current my car will charge at is 16A,
but there are some surprising charge currents mentioned he
https://www.zap-map.com/charge-point...ectors-speeds/

Thanks for the above link. I was trying to work out the range extend
capability of the couple of chargers I saw on a motorway service station
last week but to no avail. They were remarkably vague about the power
levels only that pacemaker users should stand well back.

How does the actual range on a fully charged (or 80% charged) battery
compare with the from new range and specification after a year or two of
regular use? Talking here mileages around 300/week?

How much of a difference does regenerative breaking make? Is it actually
worthwhile or just another feature for salesmen to blather on about?


Recent research into EV battery, specifically the Nissan Leaf's going
back to 2012 shows battery aging is considerably less than originally
thought. An average use battery being useable for typically 20 years.
The expired battery packs will also have considerable resale value, both
as downgraded batteries and for scrap. We have a 2 year old Zoe which
still achieves 200 miles on a charge in the summer months, no noticable
degradation so far.

EV fuel consumption under normal driving varies from around 2.5 miles
per kWh for upper end SUV type tanks such as Jag Ipace and Audi etron,
to 4.5 miles per kWh or more for Nissan Leaf, Renault Zoe etc. This
includes powering all the electrics, heating, aircon etc etc.
Regen is also included in the above figures. Regen is NOT just another
sales talk item - depending on the terrain it will have considerable
effect on achievable range. Instead of chucking your kinetic energy into
heat in the brakes to slow down, it is used to recharge the battery. A
side effect is that brake wear is much lower, another cost benefit.

On 04/06/2019 13:36, Martin Brown wrote:
On 03/06/2019 14:28, wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:55, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:39:27 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7463

Temperature rise of 13A sockets is only tested for 60 minutes at 13A
(and double 13A sockets only tested to a combined 20A I think).

If it's okay after 60 minutes, is it not likely still to be okay after
10 hours?

In any case my understanding is that if you buy an electric vehicle
you get a 'deal' on a charging point.Â* I only hope it's a better deal
than the Brexit one!

I think it gives you 16 amps and speeds up the charging a bit.

My PHEV came with two cables: one for use with 13A sockets and one for
use with Type 2 public charge points. I've never used the first, but
it has a few current settings. In practice I've always used a
dedicated Rolec charge point at home, which is fed from a 32A MCB and
has an attached cable. The max current my car will charge at is 16A,
but there are some surprising charge currents mentioned he
https://www.zap-map.com/charge-point...ectors-speeds/

Thanks for the above link. I was trying to work out the range extend
capability of the couple of chargers I saw on a motorway service station
last week but to no avail. They were remarkably vague about the power
levels only that pacemaker users should stand well back.

How does the actual range on a fully charged (or 80% charged) battery
compare with the from new range and specification after a year or two of
regular use? Talking here mileages around 300/week?

How much of a difference does regenerative breaking make? Is it actually
worthwhile or just another feature for salesmen to blather on about?

Unfortunately those are impossible questions to answer quantitatively,
except to say that my car (a C350e, which is not optimised for economy)
has had its petrol engine off for just over 4000 of the last 9200 miles
of local and motorway driving, since I last reset the display. A long
downhill stretch, with regenerative cruise control holding a sensible
speed, will typically increase the electric range by 1 mile. After 2
years and about 20k I haven't noticed a difference in battery
performance. The one thing that hammers the range is cold weather.

On 03/06/2019 11:30, Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/fo...hread.php?tid=
7463

or: https://tinyurl.com/gvr-13a

Any comments from the experts here?

A standard plug and socket can carry 13A - but there are provisos. It
needs to be well terminated, and the pins etc need to be very clean. It
will also still get hot (you will gets several watts of dissipation in
the fuse for example).

So its not the ideal connection for long term heave loads near the maximum.

To an extent, its a bit of a moot point, since for a car with any
sensible battery capacity, 13A charging is likely to be too slow for
practical purposes. Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit
supplying 6 to 7kW.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:56:16 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 03/06/2019 11:30, Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/fo...hread.php?tid=
7463

or: https://tinyurl.com/gvr-13a

Any comments from the experts here?

A standard plug and socket can carry 13A - but there are provisos. It
needs to be well terminated, and the pins etc need to be very clean. It
will also still get hot (you will gets several watts of dissipation in
the fuse for example).

Are the new pins (shielded) less efficient than the original solid
ones? Is aluminium less efficient than copper?

So its not the ideal connection for long term heave loads near the maximum.

To an extent, its a bit of a moot point, since for a car with any
sensible battery capacity, 13A charging is likely to be too slow for
practical purposes. Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit
supplying 6 to 7kW.

Does this imply 30A rather than the 16A I suggested in my previous
posting?

On 03/06/2019 12:13, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:56:16 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 03/06/2019 11:30, Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/fo...hread.php?tid=
7463

or: https://tinyurl.com/gvr-13a

Any comments from the experts here?

A standard plug and socket can carry 13A - but there are provisos. It
needs to be well terminated, and the pins etc need to be very clean. It
will also still get hot (you will gets several watts of dissipation in
the fuse for example).

Are the new pins (shielded) less efficient than the original solid
ones?

No, because its only the ends of the L&N pins that make contact with the
contacts in the sockets.

Is aluminium less efficient than copper?

Yes, but that's never used in (built to spec) plugs or sockets.


So its not the ideal connection for long term heave loads near the maximum.

To an extent, its a bit of a moot point, since for a car with any
sensible battery capacity, 13A charging is likely to be too slow for
practical purposes. Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit
supplying 6 to 7kW.

Does this imply 30A rather than the 16A I suggested in my previous
posting?

Yup. Note that is for dedicated charging points. Many EV owners may also
have a 13A plug in charging lead as well for "emergency" use.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 03/06/2019 14:06, John Rumm wrote:
On 03/06/2019 12:13, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:56:16 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 03/06/2019 11:30, Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/fo...hread.php?tid=
7463

or: https://tinyurl.com/gvr-13a

Any comments from the experts here?

A standard plug and socket can carry 13A - but there are provisos. It
needs to be well terminated, and the pins etc need to be very clean. It
will also still get hot (you will gets several watts of dissipation in
the fuse for example).

Are the new pins (shielded) less efficient than the original solid
ones?

No, because its only the ends of the L&N pins that make contact with the
contacts in the sockets.

Is aluminium less efficient than copper?

Yes, but that's never used in (built to spec) plugs or sockets.

I would hope copper isn't either.
Its too soft to make spring connections.


I suspect most problems are caused by cheap sockets where the
springiness is not enough to get a good contact.

On Monday, 3 June 2019 15:25:31 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:

Is aluminium less efficient than copper?

Yes, but that's never used in (built to spec) plugs or sockets.

I would hope copper isn't either.
Its too soft to make spring connections.

Copper alloyed with 2% beryllium and then heat treated after shaping
makes excellent connector springs and is widely used.

John

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:30, Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/fo...hread.php?tid=
7463

or: https://tinyurl.com/gvr-13a

Any comments from the experts here?

A standard plug and socket can carry 13A - but there are provisos. It
needs to be well terminated, and the pins etc need to be very clean. It
will also still get hot (you will gets several watts of dissipation in
the fuse for example).

So its not the ideal connection for long term heave loads near the
maximum.

To an extent, its a bit of a moot point, since for a car with any
sensible battery capacity, 13A charging is likely to be too slow for
practical purposes. Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit
supplying 6 to 7kW.

There's a perfectly good standard 32A connector. (or 63A if you must).

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 19:26:55 +0100, charles wrote:

There's a perfectly good standard 32A connector. (or 63A if you must).

Stop messing about, 125 A three phase or about 90 kW. Sort of power
required to charge an electric vehicle in the time it takes to fill a
fuel tank. Slight snag is domestic supplies are, at best, 100 A
single phase, a mere 23 (ish) kW.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote on 04/06/2019 :
Stop messing about, 125 A three phase or about 90 kW. Sort of power
required to charge an electric vehicle in the time it takes to fill a
fuel tank. Slight snag is domestic supplies are, at best, 100 A
single phase, a mere 23 (ish) kW.

Most supply cables to houses are shared with lots of other houses and
sized for an average loading. If lot of those house occupiers buy an
electric vehicle, they will likely all want to charge them overnight.
The average load will be increased several fold. Loading on the
sub-station will be increased severalfold.

In article ,
says...

Most supply cables to houses are shared with lots of other houses and
sized for an average loading. If lot of those house occupiers buy an
electric vehicle, they will likely all want to charge them overnight.
The average load will be increased several fold. Loading on the
sub-station will be increased severalfold.

Not a problem.

We haven't got the generating capacity to meet this increase
in demand so just make sure you've got a good stock of candles
in before the stocks run out.

--

Terry

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Tue, 04 Jun 2019 08:07:39 +0100, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Stop messing about, 125 A three phase or about 90 kW. Sort of
power
required to charge an electric vehicle in the time it takes to
fill a
fuel tank. Slight snag is domestic supplies are, at best, 100 A
single phase, a mere 23 (ish) kW.

Most supply cables to houses are shared with lots of other houses and
sized for an average loading.

Our average loading is just over 1 kW. Excluding the E7 but even
including that the average is still only 3 kW. The snag of course is
that for 7 hours (ish) we pull the best part of 10 kW, yes the 16
mm^2 E7 tails do get warm. The 35 mm^2 incomer doesn't...

If overnight charging of EV's at home does become common place then
it may well start to get "interesting", anything from finding poor
underground joints to substation protection tripping or transformer
fires.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 2019-06-04, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Dave Liquorice wrote on 04/06/2019 :
Stop messing about, 125 A three phase or about 90 kW. Sort of power
required to charge an electric vehicle in the time it takes to fill a
fuel tank. Slight snag is domestic supplies are, at best, 100 A
single phase, a mere 23 (ish) kW.

Most supply cables to houses are shared with lots of other houses and
sized for an average loading. If lot of those house occupiers buy an
electric vehicle, they will likely all want to charge them overnight.

I know I would, because we have E7.

The average load will be increased several fold. Loading on the
sub-station will be increased severalfold.

Would it do the electric cars any harm if all the ones on a street
were plugged in all night but some kind of "smart" distribution system
switched various charging points on & off at different times?

In article l.net,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 19:26:55 +0100, charles wrote:

There's a perfectly good standard 32A connector. (or 63A if you must).

Stop messing about, 125 A three phase or about 90 kW. Sort of power
required to charge an electric vehicle in the time it takes to fill a
fuel tank. Slight snag is domestic supplies are, at best, 100 A
single phase, a mere 23 (ish) kW.

I know I've only got a 60A single phase incoming supply. Which is why I
didn't bother to mention the bigger stuff.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 04/06/2019 09:24, charles wrote:
In article l.net,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 19:26:55 +0100, charles wrote:

There's a perfectly good standard 32A connector. (or 63A if you must).

Stop messing about, 125 A three phase or about 90 kW. Sort of power
required to charge an electric vehicle in the time it takes to fill a
fuel tank. Slight snag is domestic supplies are, at best, 100 A
single phase, a mere 23 (ish) kW.

I know I've only got a 60A single phase incoming supply. Which is why I
didn't bother to mention the bigger stuff.

Are you limited by the actual supply or your own system?

I rewired the house when I moved in. It too had a 60A main fuse. The
next time the meter reader called, he spotted the new consumer unit,
said that he'd get the main fuse upgraded and a few weeks later they
turned up (unannounced), smashed off the old cast-iron housing and
replaced it with a thermoset-plastic one complete with 100A fuse.

SteveW

On 03/06/2019 11:56, John Rumm wrote:
On 03/06/2019 11:30, Terry Casey wrote:

Just came across this topic on another forum:

http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/fo...hread.php?tid=
7463

or: https://tinyurl.com/gvr-13a

Any comments from the experts here?

A standard plug and socket can carry 13A - but there are provisos. It
needs to be well terminated, and the pins etc need to be very clean. It
will also still get hot (you will gets several watts of dissipation in
the fuse for example).

So its not the ideal connection for long term heave loads near the maximum.


I discovered that after putting MK plugs and sockets into a mate's
"light industrial" application with 3 kW immersion heaters running
typically for up to 12 hours. (Having plugs and sockets added
flexibility when elements or controllers failed). Since going over to
the standard 16A industrial plug and socket (no switch or fuse) there
have been no problems at all.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

In article ,
newshound wrote:
I discovered that after putting MK plugs and sockets into a mate's
"light industrial" application with 3 kW immersion heaters running
typically for up to 12 hours. (Having plugs and sockets added
flexibility when elements or controllers failed). Since going over to
the standard 16A industrial plug and socket (no switch or fuse) there
have been no problems at all.

A 13 amp getting hot is often down to a poor fuse connection. If you have
one that does, try cleaning the fuse and contacts, making sure they give a
tight fit.

--
*The colder the X-ray table, the more of your body is required on it *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 04/06/2019 15:35, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
newshound wrote:
I discovered that after putting MK plugs and sockets into a mate's
"light industrial" application with 3 kW immersion heaters running
typically for up to 12 hours. (Having plugs and sockets added
flexibility when elements or controllers failed). Since going over to
the standard 16A industrial plug and socket (no switch or fuse) there
have been no problems at all.

A 13 amp getting hot is often down to a poor fuse connection. If you have
one that does, try cleaning the fuse and contacts, making sure they give a
tight fit.


I have heard tell that some people with welders solder a length of thick
copper wire across the fuse clips in the plug top.

Bill

John Rumm wrote:

Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit supplying 6 to 7kW.

New video on EV charging from mikeselectricstuff

https://youtu.be/jT8IsAd9ea0

On Friday, 7 June 2019 05:48:23 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit supplying 6 to 7kW.

New video on EV charging from mikeselectricstuff

https://youtu.be/jT8IsAd9ea0

The purpose of dedicated chargers is so that in the future, they can be separately metered and taxed.

harry wrote:

The purpose of dedicated chargers is so that in the future, they can be separately metered and taxed.

Sounds like openEVSE is a good thing then ...

"harry" wrote in message
...
On Friday, 7 June 2019 05:48:23 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit supplying 6 to
7kW.

New video on EV charging from mikeselectricstuff

https://youtu.be/jT8IsAd9ea0

The purpose of dedicated chargers is so that in the
future, they can be separately metered and taxed.

Bull****. They arent separately metered.

On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 18:41:38 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

New video on EV charging from mikeselectricstuff

https://youtu.be/jT8IsAd9ea0

The purpose of dedicated chargers is so that in the
future, they can be separately metered and taxed.

Bull****. They arent separately metered.

He talked about the future, you senile "argumentative asshole"!

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID:

On 07/06/2019 07:31, harry wrote:
On Friday, 7 June 2019 05:48:23 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Most dedicated home chargers normally need a circuit supplying 6 to 7kW.

New video on EV charging from mikeselectricstuff

https://youtu.be/jT8IsAd9ea0

The purpose of dedicated chargers is so that in the future, they can be separately metered and taxed.



That could be a problem as none of them have any means to do so.
Who is going to pay to replace them with ones that do?

brian reay the expert on all things will be along in a minute ....tee hee