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Mending ceramics
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW |
Mending ceramics
TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. Is superglue the way? Araldite, I'd have thought ... |
Mending ceramics
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:52:34 UTC, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. Blame the cat? Is superglue the way? Any tips? I think professionals make a scratch along the edge of the pieces to accommodate the glue thickness. Owain |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I'd use araldite and masking tape, personally. Superglue not so hot on pourous stuff. |
Mending ceramics
TimW Wrote in message:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW Youtube research shurely? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
Mending ceramics
Chris Bartram formulated on Thursday :
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I'd use araldite and masking tape, personally. Superglue not so hot on pourous stuff. I did wonder if it is not to hold water, if superglue might be enough? I have used it and it worked fine. I thought - put the pieces together, held with an elastic band(s) so the edges are tight, then dribble the superglue along the joint. It will be pulled into the crack, so not so obvious as Araldite. Surplus should rub of with the likes of a pan scrub, once set up. |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn? Bill |
Mending ceramics
Bill Wright explained on 14/03/2019 :
You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn? £1 for a pack of 7 in Poundland type places. |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote: If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn? Bill It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm. TW |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 18:35, Jim K.. wrote:
TimW Wrote in message: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW Youtube research shurely? surprisingly confused. Glue with silicone? and I got distracted by a Fred Dibnah episode. TW |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 18:35, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:54:25 +0000, Andy Burns wrote: TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. Is superglue the way? Araldite, I'd have thought ... +1 Apply less rather than more. Slightly worried by the quantity and the squeeze-out and the pressure needed to close the join and the need to be tidy. I need to get it back into one piece looking clean as poss. It doesn't need to hold water or go in a dishwasher. TW |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I always have this worry that epoxy will be too thick especially compared to superglue, but I have to say that in practice I have normally got away with it. I believe that *professional* ceramics restorers hate the bodges that amateurs do with araldite but I don't know what they use. The way to get a thin epoxy layer of course is to warm it up a bit. Cook it too far and it bubbles and then sets instantly but warmed to the runny stage and fitted as quickly as possible is good. |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 17:54, Andy Burns wrote:
TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. Is superglue the way? Araldite, I'd have thought ... epoxy,. mixed carefully and stoved at around 90C Fill holes with milliput -- Those who want slavery should have the grace to name it by its proper name. They must face the full meaning of that which they are advocating or condoning; the full, exact, specific meaning of collectivism, of its logical implications, of the principles upon which it is based, and of the ultimate consequences to which these principles will lead. They must face it, then decide whether this is what they want or not. Ayn Rand. |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 20:29, Chris Hogg wrote:
Hence my comment about less rather than more. For mending ceramics like yours (actually porcelain dolls' heads), my late wife used to apply the Araldite with a pin. The same method I often use with superglue on small objects where I only want the glue on the area to be joined. Squirt out a drop of superglue onto a piece of plastic, dip in the point of the pin to pick up a minute amount of glue and apply to the area to be joined. A _very_ small droplet will form on the sharp point of the pin. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 18:57, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Surplus should rub of with the likes of a pan scrub, once set up. Or with a quick rub over with Acetone (nail varnish remover) Note that some nail varnish removers no longer contain Acetone -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Mending ceramics
TimW Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 18:35, Jim K.. wrote: TimW Wrote in message: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW Youtube research shurely? surprisingly confused. Glue with silicone? and I got distracted by a Fred Dibnah episode. TW More practice required (and at not forgetting the goal in mind...) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 20:15, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bill Wright explained on 14/03/2019 : You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn? £1 for a pack of 7 in Poundland type places. Having just used some poundland glue - the first 2 tubes didn't produce any superglue. The third one did but once the tube pierced the plastic nozzle and cap stuck themselves firmly together and wouldn't budge a few hours later. Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use immediately and chuck the tube away. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Mending ceramics
TimW Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote: On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote: If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn? Bill It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm. TW Not sure I could carefully spread superglue or usual epoxies on two x thin 750mm surfaces and assemble & clamp before it all started going off? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
Mending ceramics
"Jim K.." Wrote in message:
TimW Wrote in message: On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote: On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote: If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn? Bill It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm. TW Not sure I could carefully spread superglue or usual epoxies on two x thin 750mm surfaces and assemble & clamp before it all started going off? Make that a total of 750mm of thin edges... -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
Mending ceramics
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW On the BBC TV programme 'The Repair Shop' they had special cement but Googling doesn't bring up anything obvious. I did find this site showing how to repair ceramics, with photos using two-part epoxy. http://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages...c-lesson-1.htm -- Dave W |
Mending ceramics
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:52:34 UTC, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW NO to superglue. It sets way too fast to get it properly assembled. The result is terrible. Epoxy works. NT |
Mending ceramics
After serious thinking alan_m wrote :
Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use immediately and chuck the tube away. That is what I do, they don't keep once opened. I tend to save up a few items which need the attention of superglue and do them all together. Note a mist of water sprayed on superglue, speeds up the setting. It sets near instantly on fingers, due to the skin moisture. |
Mending ceramics
Pamela wrote on 14/03/2019 :
After similar experiences with pound store superglue, I now use only Loctite who offers a range of 4 or 5 different types. The pound shops now offer the basic Loctite too. I have never tried it, the seven for a pound work just fine. |
Mending ceramics
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Mending ceramics
I'd have thought that there should be lots of info online about this. We see
all the time on TV where ancient relics are built again using some form of glue and the repairs are almost undetectable I am told. However if its just an old vase, it seems a lot of trouble to go to to fix it when any old Charity shop has countless vases or so it seems. As has been said, superglue is not going to work reliably, since the material you are gluing is so powdery. Some form of epoxy might well work, especially if you can build up a lot of it on the inside to support the joint, while cleaning the outside. Brian -- ----- -- This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "Andy Burns" wrote in message ... TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. Is superglue the way? Araldite, I'd have thought ... |
Mending ceramics
Brian Gaff explained on 15/03/2019 :
As has been said, superglue is not going to work reliably, since the material you are gluing is so powdery. Some form of epoxy might well work, especially if you can build up a lot of it on the inside to support the joint, while cleaning the outside. Epoxy glue takes up space, forcing there to be an obvious gap at the join. Superglue has the advantage that the item can be assembled first, with elastic bands holding it together or tape, then the superglue added. The glue will be drawn into the slight gap in the material and any surplus is easily cleaned off. It makes a near invisible repair. |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? Use a proper ceramic glue that is white or you will always be able to see the crack. Two part epoxy loaded with white pigment isn't bad either. The right stuff appears in Aldi/Lidl from time to time. You have to be able to hold them in position while it cures since the glue goes through a more liquid phase before it sets. Thinnest possible coat on the joint that you can get will be strongest. You can trim off any visible excess with a sharp blade if you wait until the stuff has cured to a tough rubbery state but not reached hard cure. Cyanoacrylate will potentially mist the surface and runs everywhere. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Mending ceramics
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen (lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a sharp scalpel. |
Mending ceramics
On 14/03/2019 23:30, Pamela wrote:
Having just used some poundland glue - the first 2 tubes didn't produce any superglue. The third one did but once the tube pierced the plastic nozzle and cap stuck themselves firmly together and wouldn't budge a few hours later. Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use immediately and chuck the tube away. After similar experiences with pound store superglue, I now use only Loctite who offers a range of 4 or 5 different types. Buy cheap, buy twice. Not necessarily. The pound shop stuff is so cheap that i can afford tho throw some away after one use. In the past I've purchased larger bottles of well known branded superglue and a couple of years later when wanting to use it again it has been solid in the bottle. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
Mending ceramics
On 15/03/2019 10:13, alan_m wrote:
On 14/03/2019 23:30, Pamela wrote: Having just used some poundland glue -Â* the first 2 tubes didn't produce any superglue.Â* The third one did but once the tube pierced the plastic nozzle and cap stuck themselves firmly together and wouldn't budge a few hours later.Â* Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use immediately and chuck the tube away. After similar experiences with pound store superglue, I now use only Loctite who offers a range of 4 or 5 different types. Buy cheap, buy twice. Not necessarily. The pound shop stuff is so cheap that i can afford tho throw some away after one use.Â* In the past I've purchased larger bottles of well known branded superglue and a couple of years later when wanting to use it again it has been solid in the bottle. The Poundshop multipack has always been my approach to superglue too though I grudgingly admit that my sister bought some of the posh Loctite stuff when she was staying with me and kept it in the fridge. Two years later it was still going strong though some months after that it gradually began to thicken. Nick |
Mending ceramics
Davidm wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen (lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a sharp scalpel. I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it? I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it. -- Chris Green · |
Mending ceramics
On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 10:51:02 +0000, Chris Green wrote:
Davidm wrote: On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen (lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a sharp scalpel. I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it? I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it. Depends on the surfaces, sometimes takes 5-10 seconds and it's tricky to hold large obects together for that long if their are multiple cracks. Tape is just a bit of "belts & braces" really. Have glued my fingers together before now, or even finger to Mrs' lip - when glueing broken tooth crown back on, before anyone asks! |
Mending ceramics
Chris Green explained :
I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it? Speed of cure depends on the moisture content, which is why when you have the glue applied and everything right, you add moisture. I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it. Well I certainly can. It sticks almost instantly due to finger moisture. |
Mending ceramics
On 15/03/2019 10:51, Chris Green wrote:
Davidm wrote: On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen (lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a sharp scalpel. I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it? I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it. Despite replied to this post, I agree that superglue is not a long term solution, where the glue seems to degrade and lose its effectiveness. For short term as in gluing skin, yes it is very effective. I would recommend epoxy as a more permanent repair. |
Mending ceramics
Pamela Wrote in message:
On 22:13 14 Mar 2019, "Jim K.." wrote: "Jim K.." Wrote in message: TimW Wrote in message: On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote: On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote: If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn? Bill It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm. TW Not sure I could carefully spread superglue or usual epoxies on two x thin 750mm surfaces and assemble & clamp before it all started going off? Make that a total of 750mm of thin edges... Araldite Standard (blue and white) is workable for an hour. Oh ok, I might find a use for it. Not a product I've used for many years, usually find & so use more rapid setting stuff. -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
Mending ceramics
In article ,
Fredxx wrote: On 15/03/2019 10:51, Chris Green wrote: Davidm wrote: On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen (lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a sharp scalpel. I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it? I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it. Despite replied to this post, I agree that superglue is not a long term solution, where the glue seems to degrade and lose its effectiveness. For short term as in gluing skin, yes it is very effective. That's what iut was developed for: Closing wounds in Vietnam. -- from KT24 in Surrey, England "I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle |
Mending ceramics
"Chris Green" wrote in message ... Davidm wrote: On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote: I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they were. Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips? TW I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen (lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a sharp scalpel. I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it? I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at mending anything, It worked fine to keep the lens that kept popping out of the frame of my prescription chinese sunnys but the fingerprint in the middle of the lens in superglue is a bit of a downside now. Worked fine for my neckband bluetooth headset which started to come apart when the arms enter the central bulge where the battery and buttons are. That on is no longer made and works much better that any other one I can buy now so is worth repairing. I can't even stick my fingers together with it. I can and did. You must have bought cheap ****. I used the superglue that Aldi has periodically. |
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On Sat, 16 Mar 2019 02:04:24 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again: FLUSH senile troll**** Oh, darn! And this thread was Rot-free, so far! tsk -- Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot: "Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)" MID: |
Mending ceramics
On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 10:13:19 +0000
alan_m wrote: In the past I've purchased larger bottles of well known branded superglue and a couple of years later when wanting to use it again it has been solid in the bottle. I had a similar experience recently with Gorilla brush and nozzle superglue that was only a few months old - lid broke off the bottle revealing nothing left inside. It had been stored upright in a cool dark place. :-( I expected it would be better than the pound shop stuff, which you expect to be of the use it once and chuck it variety. |
Mending ceramics
On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 13:24:00 +0000 (GMT)
charles wrote: In article , Fredxx wrote: Despite replied to this post, I agree that superglue is not a long term solution, where the glue seems to degrade and lose its effectiveness. For short term as in gluing skin, yes it is very effective. That's what iut was developed for: Closing wounds in Vietnam. It was used that way (and still is) but that's not why it was developed. |
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