I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW

TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase.
Is superglue the way?

Araldite, I'd have thought ...

On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:52:34 UTC, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase.

Blame the cat?

Is superglue the way? Any tips?

I think professionals make a scratch along the edge of the pieces to accommodate the glue thickness.

Owain

On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I'd use araldite and masking tape, personally. Superglue not so hot on
pourous stuff.

TimW Wrote in message:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW


Youtube research shurely?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Chris Bartram formulated on Thursday :
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now come
cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They dry fit
nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back how they
were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks quite
porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of
about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly position?
I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that what
professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I'd use araldite and masking tape, personally. Superglue not so hot on
pourous stuff.

I did wonder if it is not to hold water, if superglue might be enough?
I have used it and it worked fine.

I thought - put the pieces together, held with an elastic band(s) so
the edges are tight, then dribble the superglue along the joint. It
will be pulled into the crack, so not so obvious as Araldite. Surplus
should rub of with the likes of a pan scrub, once set up.

On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:


If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond.

You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn?

Bill

Bill Wright explained on 14/03/2019 :
You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn?

£1 for a pack of 7 in Poundland type places.

On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:


If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about
750mm length to bond.

You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn?

Bill

It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two
halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm.
TW

On 14/03/2019 18:35, Jim K.. wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW


Youtube research shurely?

surprisingly confused. Glue with silicone? and I got distracted by a
Fred Dibnah episode.
TW

On 14/03/2019 18:35, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:54:25 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase.
Is superglue the way?

Araldite, I'd have thought ...

+1

Apply less rather than more.


Slightly worried by the quantity and the squeeze-out and the pressure
needed to close the join and the need to be tidy.

I need to get it back into one piece looking clean as poss. It doesn't
need to hold water or go in a dishwasher.

TW

On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW

I always have this worry that epoxy will be too thick especially
compared to superglue, but I have to say that in practice I have
normally got away with it. I believe that *professional* ceramics
restorers hate the bodges that amateurs do with araldite but I don't
know what they use. The way to get a thin epoxy layer of course is to
warm it up a bit. Cook it too far and it bubbles and then sets instantly
but warmed to the runny stage and fitted as quickly as possible is good.

On 14/03/2019 17:54, Andy Burns wrote:
TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. Is superglue the way?

Araldite, I'd have thought ...

epoxy,. mixed carefully and stoved at around 90C

Fill holes with milliput


--
Those who want slavery should have the grace to name it by its proper
name. They must face the full meaning of that which they are advocating
or condoning; the full, exact, specific meaning of collectivism, of its
logical implications, of the principles upon which it is based, and of
the ultimate consequences to which these principles will lead. They must
face it, then decide whether this is what they want or not.

Ayn Rand.

On 14/03/2019 20:29, Chris Hogg wrote:

Hence my comment about less rather than more. For mending ceramics
like yours (actually porcelain dolls' heads), my late wife used to
apply the Araldite with a pin.


The same method I often use with superglue on small objects where I only
want the glue on the area to be joined. Squirt out a drop of superglue
onto a piece of plastic, dip in the point of the pin to pick up a minute
amount of glue and apply to the area to be joined. A _very_ small
droplet will form on the sharp point of the pin.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 14/03/2019 18:57, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Surplus should rub
of with the likes of a pan scrub, once set up.

Or with a quick rub over with Acetone (nail varnish remover)

Note that some nail varnish removers no longer contain Acetone
--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

TimW Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 18:35, Jim K.. wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW


Youtube research shurely?

surprisingly confused. Glue with silicone? and I got distracted by a
Fred Dibnah episode.
TW


More practice required (and at not forgetting the goal in mind...)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 14/03/2019 20:15, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bill Wright explained on 14/03/2019 :
You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn?

£1 for a pack of 7 in Poundland type places.

Having just used some poundland glue - the first 2 tubes didn't produce
any superglue. The third one did but once the tube pierced the plastic
nozzle and cap stuck themselves firmly together and wouldn't budge a few
hours later. Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use
immediately and chuck the tube away.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

TimW Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:


If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about
750mm length to bond.

You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn?

Bill

It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two
halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm.
TW


Not sure I could carefully spread superglue or usual epoxies on
two x thin 750mm surfaces and assemble & clamp before it all
started going off?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

"Jim K.." Wrote in message:
TimW Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:


If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about
750mm length to bond.

You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn?

Bill

It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two
halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm.
TW


Not sure I could carefully spread superglue or usual epoxies on
two x thin 750mm surfaces and assemble & clamp before it all
started going off?

Make that a total of 750mm of thin edges...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW

On the BBC TV programme 'The Repair Shop' they had special cement but
Googling doesn't bring up anything obvious. I did find this site
showing how to repair ceramics, with photos using two-part epoxy.
http://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages...c-lesson-1.htm
--
Dave W

On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:52:34 UTC, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW

NO to superglue. It sets way too fast to get it properly assembled. The result is terrible. Epoxy works.


NT

After serious thinking alan_m wrote :
Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use immediately and
chuck the tube away.

That is what I do, they don't keep once opened. I tend to save up a few
items which need the attention of superglue and do them all together.

Note a mist of water sprayed on superglue, speeds up the setting. It
sets near instantly on fingers, due to the skin moisture.

Pamela wrote on 14/03/2019 :
After similar experiences with pound store superglue, I now use only Loctite
who offers a range of 4 or 5 different types.

The pound shops now offer the basic Loctite too. I have never tried it,
the seven for a pound work just fine.

After serious thinking wrote :
NO to superglue. It sets way too fast to get it properly assembled. The
result is terrible. Epoxy works.

It does, that is why you need to fully assemble first, then apply the
superglue along the crack/ join. The glue is so thin, it will be drawn
into the cracks.

I'd have thought that there should be lots of info online about this. We see
all the time on TV where ancient relics are built again using some form of
glue and the repairs are almost undetectable I am told.
However if its just an old vase, it seems a lot of trouble to go to to fix
it when any old Charity shop has countless vases or so it seems.
As has been said, superglue is not going to work reliably, since the
material you are gluing is so powdery.
Some form of epoxy might well work, especially if you can build up a lot
of it on the inside to support the joint, while cleaning the outside.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. Is superglue the way?

Araldite, I'd have thought ...

Brian Gaff explained on 15/03/2019 :
As has been said, superglue is not going to work reliably, since the material
you are gluing is so powdery.
Some form of epoxy might well work, especially if you can build up a lot of
it on the inside to support the joint, while cleaning the outside.

Epoxy glue takes up space, forcing there to be an obvious gap at the
join. Superglue has the advantage that the item can be assembled first,
with elastic bands holding it together or tape, then the superglue
added. The glue will be drawn into the slight gap in the material and
any surplus is easily cleaned off. It makes a near invisible repair.

On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:
I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

Use a proper ceramic glue that is white or you will always be able to
see the crack. Two part epoxy loaded with white pigment isn't bad
either. The right stuff appears in Aldi/Lidl from time to time.

You have to be able to hold them in position while it cures since the
glue goes through a more liquid phase before it sets. Thinnest possible
coat on the joint that you can get will be strongest.

You can trim off any visible excess with a sharp blade if you wait until
the stuff has cured to a tough rubbery state but not reached hard cure.

Cyanoacrylate will potentially mist the surface and runs everywhere.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen
(lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together
quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe
joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's
dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a
sharp scalpel.

On 14/03/2019 23:30, Pamela wrote:

Having just used some poundland glue - the first 2 tubes didn't produce
any superglue. The third one did but once the tube pierced the plastic
nozzle and cap stuck themselves firmly together and wouldn't budge a few
hours later. Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use
immediately and chuck the tube away.

After similar experiences with pound store superglue, I now use only Loctite
who offers a range of 4 or 5 different types.

Buy cheap, buy twice.


Not necessarily. The pound shop stuff is so cheap that i can afford tho
throw some away after one use. In the past I've purchased larger
bottles of well known branded superglue and a couple of years later when
wanting to use it again it has been solid in the bottle.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 15/03/2019 10:13, alan_m wrote:
On 14/03/2019 23:30, Pamela wrote:

Having just used some poundland glue -Â* the first 2 tubes didn't produce
any superglue.Â* The third one did but once the tube pierced the plastic
nozzle and cap stuck themselves firmly together and wouldn't budge a few
hours later.Â* Probably best to treat these tubes of glue as open, use
immediately and chuck the tube away.

After similar experiences with pound store superglue, I now use only
Loctite
who offers a range of 4 or 5 different types.

Buy cheap, buy twice.


Not necessarily. The pound shop stuff is so cheap that i can afford tho
throw some away after one use.Â* In the past I've purchased larger
bottles of well known branded superglue and a couple of years later when
wanting to use it again it has been solid in the bottle.

The Poundshop multipack has always been my approach to superglue too
though I grudgingly admit that my sister bought some of the posh Loctite
stuff when she was staying with me and kept it in the fridge. Two
years later it was still going strong though some months after that it
gradually began to thicken.

Nick

Davidm wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen
(lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together
quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe
joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's
dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a
sharp scalpel.

I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it
cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it?

I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at
mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it.

--
Chris Green
·

On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 10:51:02 +0000, Chris Green wrote:

Davidm wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen
(lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together
quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe
joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's
dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a
sharp scalpel.

I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it
cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it?

I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at
mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it.
Depends on the surfaces, sometimes takes 5-10 seconds and it's tricky
to hold large obects together for that long if their are multiple
cracks. Tape is just a bit of "belts & braces" really.

Have glued my fingers together before now, or even finger to Mrs' lip
- when glueing broken tooth crown back on, before anyone asks!

Chris Green explained :
I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it
cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it?

Speed of cure depends on the moisture content, which is why when you
have the glue applied and everything right, you add moisture.


I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at
mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it.

Well I certainly can. It sticks almost instantly due to finger
moisture.

On 15/03/2019 10:51, Chris Green wrote:
Davidm wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen
(lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together
quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe
joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's
dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a
sharp scalpel.

I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it
cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it?

I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at
mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it.

Despite replied to this post, I agree that superglue is not a long term
solution, where the glue seems to degrade and lose its effectiveness.
For short term as in gluing skin, yes it is very effective.

I would recommend epoxy as a more permanent repair.

Pamela Wrote in message:
On 22:13 14 Mar 2019, "Jim K.." wrote:

"Jim K.." Wrote in message:
TimW Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 19:52, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/03/2019 17:52, TimW wrote:


If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken edge of about
750mm length to bond.

You'll use a lot of superglue. Is it a gigantic urn?

Bill

It's a vase. It's about a foot tall and 4" across and it's split in two
halves from top to bottom. 300 + 100 + 300 + a bit is 750mm.
TW


Not sure I could carefully spread superglue or usual epoxies on
two x thin 750mm surfaces and assemble & clamp before it all
started going off?

Make that a total of 750mm of thin edges...

Araldite Standard (blue and white) is workable for an hour.



Oh ok, I might find a use for it.

Not a product I've used for many years, usually find & so use more
rapid setting stuff.
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article ,
Fredxx wrote:
On 15/03/2019 10:51, Chris Green wrote:
Davidm wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen
(lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together
quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe
joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's
dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a
sharp scalpel.

I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it
cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it?

I have to say that I have never found superglue very effective at
mending anything, I can't even stick my fingers together with it.

Despite replied to this post, I agree that superglue is not a long term
solution, where the glue seems to degrade and lose its effectiveness.
For short term as in gluing skin, yes it is very effective.

That's what iut was developed for: Closing wounds in Vietnam.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

"Chris Green" wrote in message
...
Davidm wrote:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:52:31 +0000, TimW wrote:

I have knocked over a vase. It was cracked top to bottom and has now
come cleanly apart into two large pieces and one small triangle. They
dry fit nicely back together so I am going to attempt to glue them back
how they were.

Is superglue the way? Any tips? the white clay is 5mm wide and looks
quite porous. If I do the little piece first I will then have a broken
edge of about 750mm length to bond. Is it glue one side only and quickly
position? I am thinking rubber bands might hold it together. Is that
what professionals do? How do I clean off any smears or drips?

TW
I've used superglue for things like this in the past. I always dampen
(lick with small bits) one surface, glue on other, fit together
quickly, have some bits of masking tape ready to hold in place, wipe
joint with damp cloth to clean excess glue before it dries. After it's
dried any remaining surface glue can be removed by careful use of a
sharp scalpel.

I thought one of the supposed major advantages of superglue is that it
cures almost instantly, so why does one need the tape to hold it?

I have to say that I have never found superglue
very effective at mending anything,

It worked fine to keep the lens that kept popping
out of the frame of my prescription chinese sunnys
but the fingerprint in the middle of the lens in
superglue is a bit of a downside now.

Worked fine for my neckband bluetooth headset
which started to come apart when the arms enter
the central bulge where the battery and buttons are.

That on is no longer made and works much better
that any other one I can buy now so is worth repairing.

I can't even stick my fingers together with it.

I can and did. You must have bought cheap ****.

I used the superglue that Aldi has periodically.

On Sat, 16 Mar 2019 02:04:24 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

FLUSH senile troll****

Oh, darn! And this thread was Rot-free, so far! tsk

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 10:13:19 +0000
alan_m wrote:

In the past I've purchased larger
bottles of well known branded superglue and a couple of years later
when wanting to use it again it has been solid in the bottle.

I had a similar experience recently with Gorilla brush and nozzle
superglue that was only a few months old - lid broke off the bottle
revealing nothing left inside. It had been stored upright in a cool
dark place. :-(
I expected it would be better than the pound shop stuff, which you
expect to be of the use it once and chuck it variety.

On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 13:24:00 +0000 (GMT)
charles wrote:

In article ,
Fredxx wrote:

Despite replied to this post, I agree that superglue is not a long
term solution, where the glue seems to degrade and lose its
effectiveness. For short term as in gluing skin, yes it is very
effective.

That's what iut was developed for: Closing wounds in Vietnam.

It was used that way (and still is) but that's not why it was developed.