In article , Tim Lamb
wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 24/01/2019 11:42, Tim Lamb wrote:
The mirror is ordered and will be supplied with 4 corner fixing holes.
I'll take view on wall flatness when I install. I assume the fixings
will have plastic spacer washers. If this is likely to lead to
excessive flexing, I can take up Harry's suggestion of silicon strips
and cling film to protect the silvering.

use rubber grommets behind it.

The location is pretty much determined by where there is sufficient
vertical space to stand and shave (or perfect the eye make up) but not
conflict with toilets/towel rails etc.

Job done.

The mirror was supplied with foil backing so hopefully free of future
moisture damage.

The wall was flat and the supplied fixings were longer than the mirror
thickness so I decided to dispense with the tap washers I planned to use
as spacers.

Slight annoyance that the shaver outlet fitted at the same time comes
with a permanently on LED indicating the voltage selected. Helpful if
you were stumbling around in the dark but most folk have a ceiling light.


put a piece of insulting tape over the LED

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 22/01/2019 20:14, Tim Lamb wrote:
Any gotchas about fixing full length bathroom mirrors you care to share?


Fit a demisting pad behind the mirror.



--
Adam

On 23/01/2019 13:12, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 23/01/2019 11:00, newshound wrote:
On 22/01/2019 21:13, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Tue, 22 Jan 2019 20:25:10 +0000, Robin wrote:

On 22/01/2019 20:14, Tim Lamb wrote:
Any gotchas about fixing full length bathroom mirrors you care to
share?

Walls that aren't flat.

+1

Only tighten the fixing screws enough to hold the mirror in place and
stop it moving. DAMHIKT. Perhaps put a sheet of something 'squashable'
(like that thin foam sheet used for packaging delicate goods) behind
the mirror before you put it up on the wall, to stop it actually
moving about or rattling, but whatever you do, don't over-tighten the
screws.


Or bubble wrap, instead of foam (the type with small bubbles).

For a heavy mirror, either fix a temporary batten to the wall at the
bottom, or use something like a heavy pile of books to make a platform
right up against the wall. Get it level. Have someone hold the mirror
firmly against the wall while you mark up the holes. Keep the platform
in place at least until you have got the top two screws inserted far
enough to take the weight.

Bollox to that. Use a batten to get it level and use *mirror glue* to
hold it in place.

No worries abput screws.




I have seen a mirror screwed in for years.

--
Adam

In article ,
ARW writes:
On 22/01/2019 20:14, Tim Lamb wrote:
Any gotchas about fixing full length bathroom mirrors you care to share?


Fit a demisting pad behind the mirror.

I have snaked a 10mm microbore pipe behind.
It's tapped off, and further on, rejoins the shower
hot feed. The rest of the room hasn't been finished
yet so it's not been tested, but I thought it was a
good idea - the mirror heating is on when the shower
is on. (There's no bath in that room.)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 25/01/2019 23:24, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
ARW writes:
On 22/01/2019 20:14, Tim Lamb wrote:
Any gotchas about fixing full length bathroom mirrors you care to share?


Fit a demisting pad behind the mirror.

I have snaked a 10mm microbore pipe behind.
It's tapped off, and further on, rejoins the shower
hot feed. The rest of the room hasn't been finished
yet so it's not been tested, but I thought it was a
good idea - the mirror heating is on when the shower
is on. (There's no bath in that room.)


Do let me know if it works.

--
Adam

In message , ARW
writes
On 22/01/2019 20:14, Tim Lamb wrote:
Any gotchas about fixing full length bathroom mirrors you care to share?


Fit a demisting pad behind the mirror.

Too late and it is full length. Remains to be seen if this is much of an
issue.

Enclosed shower but conventional bath. Maybe the Building Control
extract fan will do the job:-)

--
Tim Lamb

On 23/01/2019 11:00, newshound wrote:

For a heavy mirror, either fix a temporary batten to the wall at the
bottom, or use something like a heavy pile of books to make a platform
right up against the wall. Get it level. Have someone hold the mirror
firmly against the wall while you mark up the holes. Keep the platform
in place at least until you have got the top two screws inserted far
enough to take the weight.

Don't forget the plastic inserts that stop the metal screws from digging
into the glass. I've found that its best to glue these in before
attempting to install the mirror or else they push out of the hole in
the mirror whilst installing and you can end up with metal on glass
whilst screwing in the fixing.

Alternatively much less hassle to buy a mirror with a frame and screw
the frame to the wall using a metal french cleat arrangement
--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 25/01/2019 18:54, charles wrote:

Paint the led using a permanent black marker pen. This tones down the
brightness.

I've done this with on under the TV set TOP boxes where the various
indicators will burn out your eyeballs if you look at them directly.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk