We're thinking of getting a new range cooker (all electric). Currently
theres a 30 amp (possibly 35 amp) cable into the kitchen and the 32 amp ring
main. I know that for a seperate oven and hob usually the hob is wired to
the cooker cable through an isolation switch and often the ovens to the ring
main through a 16 amp plug or simular.

What happens with these large range cookers, I added the power comsumption
on one and it came to a total of 67 A if all things where switched on. Would
that need a new cable to the consumer unit or does it take power from both
the cooker spur and the ring main? Also what happens in a normal house with
single phase electrics, if your cooking a large lunch and some decides to
have a shower with a 10kw shower (40 amps) thats goign to max out the 80 amp
trip and the 100 amp consumer fuse. Presumable the trip just cuts the power
on overload. Must cause a problem or are most modern houses that use
electric for cooking 3 phase these days.

Its practically impossible to run a new cable back to the consumer unit, so
I am wondering how this limits our choice of cooker.

Thanks

Jaime

Jaime wrote:


What happens with these large range cookers, I added the power comsumption
on one and it came to a total of 67 A if all things where switched on.

Check out the instructions for the cooker, you may find that it has
interlocks to prevent you from using all the features simultaneously.

Lee

--
To reply use lee.blaver and NTL world com

"Lee Blaver" wrote in message
...
Jaime wrote:


What happens with these large range cookers, I added the power
comsumption
on one and it came to a total of 67 A if all things where switched on.

Check out the instructions for the cooker, you may find that it has
interlocks to prevent you from using all the features simultaneously.


Thanks, any ideas how I find out the requirements of a cooker before we buy
it.

Jaime

Lee Blaver wrote:

Check out the instructions for the cooker, you may find that it has
interlocks to prevent you from using all the features simultaneously.

Lee

Ee by goom! Just a mo? That don't sound right, some how?
What's the point of buying all the bells and whistles if you
can't use them.
We've often had four boilers on the hobs on top, and stuff in the
oven; for several hours at a time.

Let's see our common or garden, bog standard 30 inch North
American stove has IIRC, 2 x 1250 hobs and 2 x 750 hobs and a 6
kilowatt oven, c'ept when it is first heating up the oven when
the broiler eleemnt also comes on for a while. That's about 10
kilowatts, all on at same time. Roughly 40-45 amps. With a 60 amp
plug and socket behind the cooker wired with #6 AWG to a
dedicated 60 amp breaker back at the CU. Has worked fine for some
30+ years. Although our stove has been replaced with similar
model during that time; twice.

Typical price these days for a new absolutely basic 30 inch
cooker at moment is around $500 to $700 Can. Roughly say, with
sales tax, 300 UK pounds. However fancier models, can go up to
$1500; stainless steel for example even more! Competition between
some of the 'big box' stores has been good and prices have
actually come down during the last ten years or so.
In typical domestic service (not including the way we have
treated ours!) a typical unit will last 20 to 30 years.

But no trouble for do it youselfers like myself to get a used one
in good condition (and they are simple to fix) when people are
remodeling!

Terry.

Terry wrote:
Lee Blaver wrote:


Check out the instructions for the cooker, you may find that it has
interlocks to prevent you from using all the features simultaneously.

Lee


Ee by goom! Just a mo? That don't sound right, some how?
What's the point of buying all the bells and whistles if you
can't use them.
We've often had four boilers on the hobs on top, and stuff in the
oven; for several hours at a time.

Some friends bought an all-electric range type cooker, with 5 "rings", a
warming area, two ovens and a separate double grill. The way the
controls are designed won't allow for all the items to be on at once.

The 5th ring won't operate if all the other 4 are on, and the "grill"
can't be selected if both ovens are on.

This is a "domestic" model rather than a commercial one though, which is
probably why.
They have a large kitchen and admitted that they only bought it for the
looks anyway, neither of them actually "cook" :-)

Lee

--
To reply use lee.blaver and NTL world com

Lee Blaver wrote:
Terry wrote:
Lee Blaver wrote:


Check out the instructions for the cooker, you may find that it has
interlocks to prevent you from using all the features simultaneously.

Lee


Ee by goom! Just a mo? That don't sound right, some how?
What's the point of buying all the bells and whistles if you
can't use them.
We've often had four boilers on the hobs on top, and stuff in the
oven; for several hours at a time.

Some friends bought an all-electric range type cooker, with 5 "rings", a
warming area, two ovens and a separate double grill. The way the
controls are designed won't allow for all the items to be on at once.

The 5th ring won't operate if all the other 4 are on, and the "grill"
can't be selected if both ovens are on.

This is a "domestic" model rather than a commercial one though, which is
probably why.
They have a large kitchen and admitted that they only bought it for the
looks anyway, neither of them actually "cook" :-)

Anyone who actually cooks wouldn't buy a 'range cooker' anyway, none
of the ones we looked at (or asked about) were really particularly
good cookers. We bought 'separates' because it allowed us to get
nearer to what we wanted at a rather lower price, though cost wasn't a
particularly important factor.

--
Chris Green )

"Jaime" wrote in message
...
We're thinking of getting a new range cooker (all electric). Currently
theres a 30 amp (possibly 35 amp) cable into the kitchen and the 32 amp
ring
main. I know that for a seperate oven and hob usually the hob is wired to
the cooker cable through an isolation switch and often the ovens to the
ring
main through a 16 amp plug or simular.

What happens with these large range cookers, I added the power comsumption
on one and it came to a total of 67 A if all things where switched on.
Would
that need a new cable to the consumer unit or does it take power from both
the cooker spur and the ring main? Also what happens in a normal house
with
single phase electrics, if your cooking a large lunch and some decides to
have a shower with a 10kw shower (40 amps) thats goign to max out the 80
amp
trip and the 100 amp consumer fuse. Presumable the trip just cuts the
power
on overload. Must cause a problem or are most modern houses that use
electric for cooking 3 phase these days.

Its practically impossible to run a new cable back to the consumer unit,
so
I am wondering how this limits our choice of cooker.

Thanks

Jaime



Bugger !!! Sorry, forgot to add this link as well:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.9.htm

snip
Bugger !!! Sorry, forgot to add this link as well:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.9.htm



Thanks for the link

Jaime

Jaime wrote:

We're thinking of getting a new range cooker (all electric). Currently
theres a 30 amp (possibly 35 amp) cable into the kitchen and the 32 amp ring
main. I know that for a seperate oven and hob usually the hob is wired to
the cooker cable through an isolation switch and often the ovens to the ring
main through a 16 amp plug or simular.

What happens with these large range cookers, I added the power comsumption
on one and it came to a total of 67 A if all things where switched on.


The point is, they never, ever, are.

The cable won't be 30Amp, probly nearer a 50A spur, and is normally
fused at 45A from memory.

On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 22:08:25 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

The cable won't be 30Amp, probly nearer a 50A spur, and is normally
fused at 45A from memory.

Actually it might be a 30A cable if diversity is applied.

Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk

nd just to mop up another of your points, the RCD main trip does not
have any overload protection; in your case this will be provided by
the leccy board fuse. The main RCD looks for earth faults only.

nd just to mop up another of your points, the RCD main trip does not
have any overload protection; in your case this will be provided by
the leccy board fuse. The main RCD looks for earth faults only.

So in a 'normal' instalation with a 80 amp RCD and a 100 amp company fuse
nothing stops the RCD being overloaded by up to 20 amps?

Jaime

"Jaime" wrote in message
...

nd just to mop up another of your points, the RCD main trip does not
have any overload protection; in your case this will be provided by
the leccy board fuse. The main RCD looks for earth faults only.

So in a 'normal' instalation with a 80 amp RCD and a 100 amp company fuse
nothing stops the RCD being overloaded by up to 20 amps?

Jaime



No.


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Andrew McKay wrote:

On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 22:08:25 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


The cable won't be 30Amp, probly nearer a 50A spur, and is normally
fused at 45A from memory.


Actually it might be a 30A cable if diversity is applied.



Migt be, but Ive never seen a cooker install done with standard T & E as
per ring mains: Usually its a lot heavier than that.


Andrew

Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk