A pal's heating is really poor and various usual fixes haven't worked.

I am now wondering if a problem has been overlooked. Would it be possible
for:

1. The Boiler and Pump being wired in Series and therefore giving poor
flow?
2. The Motorised valve being reversed?

In article 2,
DerbyBorn wrote:
A pal's heating is really poor and various usual fixes haven't worked.

I am now wondering if a problem has been overlooked. Would it be
possible for:

1. The Boiler and Pump being wired in Series and therefore giving poor
flow?

Do you mean electrically?

2. The Motorised valve being reversed?

Get an infra red thermometer. That will show you which is flow and return.

You can also use that to check temperatures throughout the system. If,
say, a rad is blocked, you'll get less temperature difference between flow
and return.

--
*I almost had a psychic girlfriend but she left me before we met *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 30/10/2018 09:13, DerbyBorn wrote:

A pal's heating is really poor and various usual fixes haven't worked.

I am now wondering if a problem has been overlooked. Would it be possible
for:

1. The Boiler and Pump being wired in Series and therefore giving poor
flow?

You mean electrically in series? Seems unlikely, and quite possible it
would not work at all.

2. The Motorised valve being reversed?

What kind of valve?

Obvious options would be a valve that is stuck and not opening (although
that would normally prevent the boiler even firing)

Or a stuck or "sluggish" pump.

I had to look at a friends setup last week, where the system was
running, but the rads were only getting warm. After a bit of questioning
it sounded like the boiler was short cycling, which suggested low or no
flow though it.

So I looked at the pump, and it was running, but was making quite a bit
of noise and vibration. So I turned the system off, popped the cap of
the front, and tried to turn the impeller with a screw driver - It was
quite stiff and rough feeling. Applying a bit of pressure with the
screwdriver allows the impeller to push back into the body of the pump a
bit. It could then be rotated more easily, and that shifted whatever
crud was in there. Put it back together, and ran it again (knocking the
speed up to max for a bit), and it ran much more smoothly and quietly.
System worked fine after that.


--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tuesday, 30 October 2018 09:13:27 UTC, DerbyBorn wrote:
A pal's heating is really poor and various usual fixes haven't worked.

I am now wondering if a problem has been overlooked. Would it be possible
for:

1. The Boiler and Pump being wired in Series and therefore giving poor
flow?
2. The Motorised valve being reversed?

so tell us what the temps are at the various locations. boiler in & out, radiators, hw coil, and how long it takes for the boiler to cut out after firing. And how big & what type the system is & whether it has a filter fitted.


NT

I am not going near it! /I know the pump and valve require his wife to
begrudgingly empty a wardrobe and a panel has to be removed. It has had
many "Free call-out / Heating Insurance people out to it. All have done
their favourite money making jobs (Powerflush, new pump,etc.

I agree a thermometer would help

Dave Plowman (News) expressed precisely :
Get an infra red thermometer. That will show you which is flow and return.

You can also use that to check temperatures throughout the system. If,
say, a rad is blocked, you'll get less temperature difference between flow
and return.

Across the rad, if it is blocked, there will be a LARGER temperature
difference. If no flow at all, both pipes might well be cold.

Harry Bloomfield wrote in
news
Dave Plowman (News) expressed precisely :
Get an infra red thermometer. That will show you which is flow and
return.

You can also use that to check temperatures throughout the system.
If, say, a rad is blocked, you'll get less temperature difference
between flow and return.

Across the rad, if it is blocked, there will be a LARGER temperature
difference. If no flow at all, both pipes might well be cold.

My latest hypothesis is that one radiator is in series and the flow has to
go through it. Since fitting TRVs it has become apparent.

My neighbour has put their heating on for the first time this evening and
their pump can be heard through the wall, however on their side you can only
just hear it. Not sure where it is, but I suspect its got some crud in it
and needs sorting and possibly having some more resilient mountings so it
does not use my party wall as a sounding board when it gets rough!
Brian

--
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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 30/10/2018 09:13, DerbyBorn wrote:

A pal's heating is really poor and various usual fixes haven't worked.

I am now wondering if a problem has been overlooked. Would it be possible
for:

1. The Boiler and Pump being wired in Series and therefore giving poor
flow?

You mean electrically in series? Seems unlikely, and quite possible it
would not work at all.

2. The Motorised valve being reversed?

What kind of valve?

Obvious options would be a valve that is stuck and not opening (although
that would normally prevent the boiler even firing)

Or a stuck or "sluggish" pump.

I had to look at a friends setup last week, where the system was running,
but the rads were only getting warm. After a bit of questioning it sounded
like the boiler was short cycling, which suggested low or no flow though
it.

So I looked at the pump, and it was running, but was making quite a bit of
noise and vibration. So I turned the system off, popped the cap of the
front, and tried to turn the impeller with a screw driver - It was quite
stiff and rough feeling. Applying a bit of pressure with the screwdriver
allows the impeller to push back into the body of the pump a bit. It could
then be rotated more easily, and that shifted whatever crud was in there.
Put it back together, and ran it again (knocking the speed up to max for a
bit), and it ran much more smoothly and quietly. System worked fine after
that.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/