At the risk of being on topic....

The shelving is fitted and approved by the user.

I managed to find the studs which turned out to be 400 spacing and
closer than I really needed for 25mm shelves.

No real issues although the wall turned out to be slightly bowed. I
thought I could pull the shelf ends in tight by hooking a cramp into the
bracket fixing holes and discovered that paint under pressure works as a
lubricant. The loaded brackets simply jumped out of the fixing slots.
Wedges would have given a temporary cure but made the shelves into a
mousetrap for the unwary housewife.
The shelf fixing holes must be formed prior to folding as they are oval
leaving sharp edges of countersunk screws accessible. Something bugle
shaped is needed but I opted for round heads.

Finishing with polyurethane varnish takes an age!
--
Tim Lamb

On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 21:19:45 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

At the risk of being on topic....

The shelving is fitted and approved by the user.

I managed to find the studs which turned out to be 400 spacing and
closer than I really needed for 25mm shelves.

You do want ~20 x 2.5m double slot white steel 50mm vertical spacing
uprights don't you Tim (FOC, inc free delivery)? ;-)

It could be these:

https://www.key.co.uk/en/key/aspect-...criptionAnchor

(but 2.5m long).

Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:

https://www.key.co.uk/en/key/aspect-...criptionAnchor

I found it impossible to get new brackets to fit old uprights, even
though it's still the same manufacturer, the spacings had changed over a
couple of decades :-(

On Thursday, 27 September 2018 08:36:55 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
I found it impossible to get new brackets to fit old uprights, even
though it's still the same manufacturer, the spacings had changed over a
couple of decades :-(

I think we noted here that at some point there was an imperialmetric change.

Also some of the 'compatable' versions have shallower uprights. The brackets fit in the shop, but not when the upright is screwed to the wall.

Owain

Show me a wall which is not bowed or twisted. My kitchen worktop is built
with these hook on brackets and we had to pack out some of the fixings to
allow things to actually fit.
Brian

--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
At the risk of being on topic....

The shelving is fitted and approved by the user.

I managed to find the studs which turned out to be 400 spacing and closer
than I really needed for 25mm shelves.

No real issues although the wall turned out to be slightly bowed. I
thought I could pull the shelf ends in tight by hooking a cramp into the
bracket fixing holes and discovered that paint under pressure works as a
lubricant. The loaded brackets simply jumped out of the fixing slots.
Wedges would have given a temporary cure but made the shelves into a
mousetrap for the unwary housewife.
The shelf fixing holes must be formed prior to folding as they are oval
leaving sharp edges of countersunk screws accessible. Something bugle
shaped is needed but I opted for round heads.

Finishing with polyurethane varnish takes an age!
--
Tim Lamb

Brian Gaff wrote

Show me a wall which is not bowed or twisted.

None of mine are, but then they are concrete block.

My kitchen worktop is built with these hook on brackets and we had to pack
out some of the fixings to allow things to actually fit.

Never had to do that with any of mine.

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
At the risk of being on topic....

The shelving is fitted and approved by the user.

I managed to find the studs which turned out to be 400 spacing and closer
than I really needed for 25mm shelves.

No real issues although the wall turned out to be slightly bowed. I
thought I could pull the shelf ends in tight by hooking a cramp into the
bracket fixing holes and discovered that paint under pressure works as a
lubricant. The loaded brackets simply jumped out of the fixing slots.
Wedges would have given a temporary cure but made the shelves into a
mousetrap for the unwary housewife.
The shelf fixing holes must be formed prior to folding as they are oval
leaving sharp edges of countersunk screws accessible. Something bugle
shaped is needed but I opted for round heads.

Finishing with polyurethane varnish takes an age!
--
Tim Lamb

In message , T i m
writes
On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 21:19:45 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

At the risk of being on topic....

The shelving is fitted and approved by the user.

I managed to find the studs which turned out to be 400 spacing and
closer than I really needed for 25mm shelves.

You do want ~20 x 2.5m double slot white steel 50mm vertical spacing
uprights don't you Tim (FOC, inc free delivery)? ;-)

It could be these:

https://www.key.co.uk/en/key/aspect-...criptionAnchor

(but 2.5m long).

I didn't actually research types or suppliers. Toolstation stocked what
I needed.

Looking at the *Aspect* illustration it appears that the lower pegs on
the brackets are not hooks as they are on mine.

Two suggestions for the manufacturers:-
Supply push on plastic channel to conceal the uprights once shelf height
is established.
And, offer a securing clip to push in above the brackets to stop them
rising in the slots.

--
Tim Lamb

On Thu, 27 Sep 2018 18:09:28 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


Show me a wall which is not bowed or twisted.

None

LOL!

My kitchen worktop is built with these hook on brackets and we had to pack
out some of the fixings to allow things to actually fit.

Never

LOL!

Pathological senile idiot!

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed:
"You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad
little ignorant ****."
MID:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2018 08:36:49 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

T i m wrote:

https://www.key.co.uk/en/key/aspect-...criptionAnchor

I found it impossible to get new brackets to fit old uprights, even
though it's still the same manufacturer, the spacings had changed over a
couple of decades :-(

Agreed to a degree.

Dad always used to use 'Spur' shelving and was always able to get more
uprights and brackets as required (not sure if you still can).

After ending up with a few different (as you say, often incompatible)
systems I stuck with 'Element 32' because: we had a local stockist, it
seemed good value, there were a reasonable range of fittings and
seemed to be strong enough, even for use in the workshop.

Luckily, no one here cares about how it looks over how (well) it works
so it can be used throughout the house (and is) as well as the
workshop. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 27 Sep 2018 09:14:01 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

snip

I didn't actually research types or suppliers. Toolstation stocked what
I needed.

Yup, you can get lucky like that sometimes. Or you settle on something
and then halfway though the project, the manufacturer stops making it
or your local supplier stops selling it. ;-(

Looking at the *Aspect* illustration it appears that the lower pegs on
the brackets are not hooks as they are on mine.

Yeah, they can be all sorts of designs. In this one room we have
single slot two tangs on the brackets but with locking knurled nuts to
hold them onto the uprights, double tang in a single slot that are
tapped into place, uprights with the slots on the *sides* and single
sided brackets with two tangs per shelf and some Element 32 where the
brackets hook in the top and then just sit in the bottom. ;-)

Two suggestions for the manufacturers:-
Supply push on plastic channel to conceal the uprights once shelf height
is established.

I think that would be a faff and I don't mind seeing the slots )and
most are covered with things on the shelves in any case). I can see
how some might like a clip in or on cover but wouldn't some colour
matched PVC tape or vinyl do the same job easier?

And, offer a securing clip to push in above the brackets to stop them
rising in the slots.

Again, if I'm fitting the shelf right to the back of the brackets you
can't then lift the Element 32 brackets up high enough to release the
bottom tangs (to allow you to slide them up enough to unhook the
brackets completely). So I generally fit the shelves to the brackets
clear of the back because:

It gives you a deeper shelf for less money. ;-)

It allows you to get wires / plugs down the back (HiFi / computer
shelving).

It allows you to move them about without having to take the shelf off
all the brackets.

After the storage unit fell off the wall in my mates PC shop and he
asked me to help him put it back again (and I refused). ;-)

Instead I supplied and fitted (he paid for the materials) half the
length of the shop with floor to ceiling with Element 32 and shelves
made out of T&G floorboards glued together [1]. They have survived the
test of time and after finishing the first batch he asked me to shelve
out the rest of the shop. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] I just cut the tongue off the front shelf and glued it in the
groove at the back (because I had a spare tongue g) and ran the belt
sander over the lot after rounding the end corners off.