I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network ... £59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

george

On 09/09/2018 15:55, George Miles wrote:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network ... £59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

george



https://www.plastics-express.co.uk/d...elecom-ducting

but at £3 a meter the plastic ducting is more expensive than the outdoor ethernet cable !

george

On Sunday, September 9, 2018 at 4:12:55 PM UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 09/09/2018 15:55, George Miles wrote:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network .... £59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

george



https://www.plastics-express.co.uk/d...elecom-ducting

In article ,
George Miles writes:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network ... =
=C2=A359.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...1313&_nkw=3Dw=
aterproof+ethernet+cable&_sacat=3D181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

Lay a duct with a draw-string, but don't put the cables in it.
The duct is for the cables you need in the future but don't
know about today, not the ones you do know about today.

I used MDPE water pipe, single piece with no joins (and black
rather than blue, but that doesn't matter much).
Thread a polypropalyene rope through to work as a draw string.
It has low friction with MDPE, but don't pull through at
excessive speed nevertheless.

Ethernet is pretty immune to mains interference, but even so,
I would space it as far from the mains cable as your trench
width allows. And of course, you never install just one
ethernet cable run anyhere, but particularly in places where
the effort to install it is considerable and the cable cost
is peanuts in comparison.

Put a plastic warning tape in the trench about half way in
depth between the cables/duct and the ground level, to warn
any future diggers.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 09/09/2018 15:55, George Miles wrote:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network ... £59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

What is the length of the run?



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 09/09/2018 15:55, George Miles wrote:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network ... £59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

george

I used blue water pipe to protect what was actually a fibre cable.
Ideally you need to ensure that water can't get into either end of the
pipe. My blue pipe is connected to a copper pipe above ground.

--
Michael Chare

On 09/09/2018 17:13, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
George Miles writes:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

snip

And of course, you never install just one
ethernet cable run anyhere, but particularly in places where
the effort to install it is considerable and the cable cost
is peanuts in comparison.


While I'd make provision for more if I did it again, I haven't found one
run per room to be a problem - I just use a switch.

One point needs 4 feeds in one place (TV etc) - the switch seems far
more elegant than 4 separate feeds. In fact, in my study there's a
switch fed from a switch - seems to work :-)

It's more ungainly if points are needed around the room - which brings
up the issue of where to put the various sockets.


--
Cheers, Rob

Trench length a bit less than 30 meters.

2.5mm 3 core cable,
but its not green blue brown
but black brown grey
so maybe use brown as live and black as neutral sleeved blue?

Could I sleeve the grey green as another earth,
or is there a rule against this?

George

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Terminating_SWA
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial

On Sunday, September 9, 2018 at 7:03:08 PM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/09/2018 15:55, George Miles wrote:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network .... £59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

What is the length of the run?



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 09/09/2018 19:15, George Miles wrote:

Trench length a bit less than 30 meters.

2.5mm 3 core cable,
but its not green blue brown
but black brown grey

If you had 2 core then that would be brown and blue, then use the armour
for earth... Three core always comes in 3 phase colours.

so maybe use brown as live and black as neutral sleeved blue?
Could I sleeve the grey green as another earth,
or is there a rule against this?

The normal suggestion is brown as live, grey oversleeved as neutral and
black oversleeved as earth[1]. Yup you can parallel the earths - and in
fact you might need to depending on where the power is going and what
the head end earthing system is. See:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...tent ial_Zone

[1] it does not really matter as you are over marking, but its intended
to break the association of black as neutral from the "old" colours,
since it is a live in the new ones.

Note TLC will sell you the external grade CAT5 by the met

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...nal/index.html

but 30m is one of those annoying lengths where it probably does not save
any to buy it that way.

This might work out ok, but you would still need a duct:

https://www.comms-express.com/produc...pe-100mt-reel/



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 19:14:00 +0100, RJH wrote:

And of course, you never install just one ethernet cable run
anyhere,
but particularly in places where the effort to install it is
considerable and the cable cost is peanuts in comparison.

+1.

While I'd make provision for more if I did it again, I haven't found one
run per room to be a problem - I just use a switch.

Yuk... B-)

One point needs 4 feeds in one place (TV etc) - the switch seems far
more elegant than 4 separate feeds. In fact, in my study there's a
switch fed from a switch - seems to work :-)

It'll work, but each switch adds a bit of latency, also remember the
uplink is carrying all the uplink traffic from all the ports on that
switch and any others further downstream.

It's more ungainly if points are needed around the room - which brings
up the issue of where to put the various sockets.

Assuming door in one corner of a room, a rough guide is at the
corners next to the door corner, along with power. Power also every
10' or so along walls.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 19:14:00 +0100, RJH wrote:
While I'd make provision for more if I did it again, I haven't found one
run per room to be a problem - I just use a switch.

Yuk... B-)

One point needs 4 feeds in one place (TV etc) - the switch seems far
more elegant than 4 separate feeds. In fact, in my study there's a
switch fed from a switch - seems to work :-)

It'll work, but each switch adds a bit of latency, also remember the
uplink is carrying all the uplink traffic from all the ports on that
switch and any others further downstream.

Also, twisted pair isn't just for ethernet. You can run voice, intercom,
video, serial, USB, radio, freeview, satellite, ... down it.

Theo

On 09/09/2018 22:02, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 19:14:00 +0100, RJH wrote:

And of course, you never install just one ethernet cable run
anyhere,
but particularly in places where the effort to install it is
considerable and the cable cost is peanuts in comparison.

+1.

While I'd make provision for more if I did it again, I haven't found one
run per room to be a problem - I just use a switch.

Yuk... B-)

One point needs 4 feeds in one place (TV etc) - the switch seems far
more elegant than 4 separate feeds. In fact, in my study there's a
switch fed from a switch - seems to work :-)

It'll work, but each switch adds a bit of latency, also remember the
uplink is carrying all the uplink traffic from all the ports on that
switch and any others further downstream.

It's pretty immaterial for many things though - for instance, I have a
Smart TV, DVD/media player, satellite box and terrestrial box in a
cabinet, all connected to a switch. Latency really doesn't matter and
the four boxes are never all in use at once. Even if they were, they all
are 100M ethernet, while the switch to central switch link is 1G.

Similarly, I have a computer desk in the living room, with its own
switch. The switch feeds the PC, networked printer and the streaming
media player in my hi-fi. The fastest item, the PC, normally has almost
full-speed access to the 1G connection.

It's more ungainly if points are needed around the room - which brings
up the issue of where to put the various sockets.

Assuming door in one corner of a room, a rough guide is at the
corners next to the door corner, along with power. Power also every
10' or so along walls.

It doesn't matter how many you install or where you place them, they'll
never be in the right place!

SteveW

On Sunday, 9 September 2018 20:47:41 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

Note TLC will sell you the external grade CAT5 by the met

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...nal/index.html

but 30m is one of those annoying lengths where it probably does not save
any to buy it that way.

That is PE sheathed, PE does not have a good life expectancy. I've been looking for black PVC sheathed for outdoor use.


NT

On 09/09/18 22:02, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 19:14:00 +0100, RJH wrote:

And of course, you never install just one ethernet cable run
anyhere,
but particularly in places where the effort to install it is
considerable and the cable cost is peanuts in comparison.

+1.

While I'd make provision for more if I did it again, I haven't found one
run per room to be a problem - I just use a switch.

Yuk... B-)


Limits bandwith uncecessarily.


One point needs 4 feeds in one place (TV etc) - the switch seems far
more elegant than 4 separate feeds. In fact, in my study there's a
switch fed from a switch - seems to work :-)

It'll work, but each switch adds a bit of latency, also remember the
uplink is carrying all the uplink traffic from all the ports on that
switch and any others further downstream.

Prezactly...

It's more ungainly if points are needed around the room - which brings
up the issue of where to put the various sockets.

Assuming door in one corner of a room, a rough guide is at the
corners next to the door corner, along with power. Power also every
10' or so along walls.



--
Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.

(Seneca the Younger, 65 AD)

On 09/09/18 23:22, Steve Walker wrote:
It doesn't matter how many you install or where you place them, they'll
never be in the right place!
+10001.

ESPECIALLY if you are married.


--
Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.

(Seneca the Younger, 65 AD)

On 09/09/2018 19:14, RJH wrote:
On 09/09/2018 17:13, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â*Â*George Miles writes:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

snip

And of course, you never install just one
ethernet cable run anyhere, but particularly in places where
the effort to install it is considerable and the cable cost
is peanuts in comparison.


While I'd make provision for more if I did it again, I haven't found one
run per room to be a problem - I just use a switch.

One point needs 4 feeds in one place (TV etc) - the switch seems far
more elegant than 4 separate feeds. In fact, in my study there's a
switch fed from a switch - seems to work :-)

....as it should, but you may need the full bandwidth one day though.

Something that mice and other critters do not like to chew on I think!
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"George Miles" wrote in message
...
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network ...
£59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

george

In message , Brian Gaff
writes
Something that mice and other critters do not like to chew on I think!

Good point Brian.

You need to keep mice out of your ducts as they will try to make nests
by chewing up your draw string.

--
Tim Lamb

On 09/09/2018 17:13, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
George Miles writes:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network ... =
=C2=A359.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...1313&_nkw=3Dw=
aterproof+ethernet+cable&_sacat=3D181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

Lay a duct with a draw-string, but don't put the cables in it.
The duct is for the cables you need in the future but don't
know about today, not the ones you do know about today.

I used MDPE water pipe, single piece with no joins (and black
rather than blue, but that doesn't matter much).
Thread a polypropalyene rope through to work as a draw string.
It has low friction with MDPE, but don't pull through at
excessive speed nevertheless.

Ethernet is pretty immune to mains interference, but even so,
I would space it as far from the mains cable as your trench
width allows. And of course, you never install just one
ethernet cable run anyhere, but particularly in places where
the effort to install it is considerable and the cable cost
is peanuts in comparison.

Put a plastic warning tape in the trench about half way in
depth between the cables/duct and the ground level, to warn
any future diggers.

Any drawstring should be 'woven' or 'braided' not traditional hawser
laid. Otherwise if you've already some cable in the duct, pulling on the
draw string 'twists' the new cable round the old one until they jam...
You can/could get cheap 100mm ducts in 5m? lengths. Plug any access with
scrunched up chicken wire to stop rodents entering and chewing through
cables.

On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 17:24:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

That is PE sheathed, PE does not have a good life expectancy.

Hum, so why do they use PE (as in MDPE) for at least gas and water
pipes?
That TLC cable is LDPE jacket HDPE insulation. And is advertised as
suitable "for clipping to external walls or laying in ducts".
Dropwire No.10 (phone lines from poles) has an HDPE jacket.

I've been looking for black PVC sheathed for outdoor use.

PVC isn't bad but can be porous and not overly stable when exposed to
UV. It can come in UV stable forms as used for window frames
guttering and some waste water pipes.


--
Cheers
Dave.

On 09 Sep 2018 22:12:08 +0100 (BST), Theo wrote:

Also, twisted pair isn't just for ethernet. You can run voice,
intercom, video, serial, USB, radio, freeview, satellite, ... down it.

Not all of those natively and I've not seen anything that'll do the
RF part of radio, freeview, satellite over cat5e. RF over fibre
exists.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On 09 Sep 2018 22:12:08 +0100 (BST), Theo wrote:

Also, twisted pair isn't just for ethernet. You can run voice,
intercom, video, serial, USB, radio, freeview, satellite, ... down it.

Not all of those natively and I've not seen anything that'll do the
RF part of radio, freeview, satellite over cat5e. RF over fibre
exists.

https://www.satshop.co.uk/satshop-rj45rf/p/482
https://www.touslescables.com/cordon...-H9AL-855.html

On Monday, 10 September 2018 13:28:24 UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 17:24:16 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:

That is PE sheathed, PE does not have a good life expectancy.

Hum, so why do they use PE (as in MDPE) for at least gas and water
pipes?
That TLC cable is LDPE jacket HDPE insulation. And is advertised as
suitable "for clipping to external walls or laying in ducts".
Dropwire No.10 (phone lines from poles) has an HDPE jacket.

I've been looking for black PVC sheathed for outdoor use.

PVC isn't bad but can be porous and not overly stable when exposed to
UV. It can come in UV stable forms as used for window frames
guttering and some waste water pipes.

Gas & water pipes are buried, not exposed to uv. My experience with polythene gerenhouses is that they're a gonner in 4 years. Maybe I'll use the pe stuff.


NT

On 09/09/2018 17:13, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Lay a duct with a draw-string, but don't put the cables in it.
The duct is for the cables you need in the future but don't
know about today, not the ones you do know about today.

You can always suck a ping-pong ball or similar through with some
fine cotton attached to the ball even if you forget the draw
string.

On Mon, 10 Sep 2018 05:56:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Gas & water pipes are buried, not exposed to uv.

Fair point. Dropwire No.10 is though and flaps about in the wind. I
think our dropwire has been replaced once but so long ago I can't
remember exactly when but probably 15 years ago.

My experience with polythene gerenhouses is that they're a gonner in 4
years. Maybe I'll use the pe stuff.

"Polythene" for polytunnels etc is clear/translucent, that has a
bearing on the UV resistance. I did a bit of a google to check the
MDPE for gas water pipes and on cable jacket types. PE as a cable
jacket type scored better than PVC on several different pages.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Monday, 10 September 2018 17:09:48 UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 10 Sep 2018 05:56:19 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:

Gas & water pipes are buried, not exposed to uv.

Fair point. Dropwire No.10 is though and flaps about in the wind. I
think our dropwire has been replaced once but so long ago I can't
remember exactly when but probably 15 years ago.

My experience with polythene gerenhouses is that they're a gonner in 4
years. Maybe I'll use the pe stuff.

"Polythene" for polytunnels etc is clear/translucent, that has a
bearing on the UV resistance. I did a bit of a google to check the
MDPE for gas water pipes and on cable jacket types. PE as a cable
jacket type scored better than PVC on several different pages.

thanks.

PS I wonder if that translates to PE underlay being ok too.


NT

On 10 Sep 2018 13:41:30 +0100 (BST), Theo wrote:

Not all of those natively and I've not seen anything that'll do
the
RF part of radio, freeview, satellite over cat5e. RF over fibre
exists.

https://www.satshop.co.uk/satshop-rj45rf/p/482
https://www.touslescables.com/cordon...-H9AL-855.html

I sit corrected, if not totaly convinced by the quoted
specifications.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article ,
Andrew writes:
On 09/09/2018 17:13, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Lay a duct with a draw-string, but don't put the cables in it.
The duct is for the cables you need in the future but don't
know about today, not the ones you do know about today.

You can always suck a ping-pong ball or similar through with some
fine cotton attached to the ball even if you forget the draw
string.

That might work initially, but you should always assume ducts will
eventually fill with water as condensate collects slowly, even if
it doesn't have any leaks in it.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article l.net,
"Dave Liquorice" writes:
On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 19:14:00 +0100, RJH wrote:

And of course, you never install just one ethernet cable run
anyhere,
but particularly in places where the effort to install it is
considerable and the cable cost is peanuts in comparison.

+1.

While I'd make provision for more if I did it again, I haven't found one
run per room to be a problem - I just use a switch.

It's not just that - underground cables do break. Having a spare
(providing it didn't break first) can be useful in such circumstances.

Indoors, back in 2000, I ran 2 to each room, 3 to the living room
Wasn't enough - they are all in use, with a couple of extra switches
too.

One point needs 4 feeds in one place (TV etc) - the switch seems far
more elegant than 4 separate feeds. In fact, in my study there's a
switch fed from a switch - seems to work :-)

It'll work, but each switch adds a bit of latency, also remember the
uplink is carrying all the uplink traffic from all the ports on that
switch and any others further downstream.

It's more ungainly if points are needed around the room - which brings
up the issue of where to put the various sockets.

Assuming door in one corner of a room, a rough guide is at the
corners next to the door corner, along with power. Power also every
10' or so along walls.

Some US states have a good rule for positioning sockets. Something
along the lines that an appliance with a 6' lead must be able to be
positioned anywhere around the wall of the room and plugged in
without the cable crossing a doorway.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
Michael Chare writes:
I used blue water pipe to protect what was actually a fibre cable.
Ideally you need to ensure that water can't get into either end of the
pipe. My blue pipe is connected to a copper pipe above ground.

You should assume underground ducts will fill with water over time.
Condensation has no way out.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Tue, 11 Sep 2018 09:21:42 -0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

You can always suck a ping-pong ball or similar through with some
fine cotton attached to the ball even if you forget the draw
string.

That might work initially, but you should always assume ducts will
eventually fill with water as condensate collects slowly, even if
it doesn't have any leaks in it.

They clear fibre ducts (as in telcoms distribution) by blowing
through with compressed air and a soft plug. AIUI you don't want to
be hit by the plug when it comes out...

Sucking limits you to 15 psi max. Blowing can use much higher
pressures.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Wiki has wrong depth?

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial

wiki says
How deep?

An underground cable will normally be laid in a trench, and then the trench back filled to cover it.

The cable needs to be buried deep enough that it is unlikely to be disturbed accidentally in future. There are no hard and fast rules here since circumstances will dictate an appropriate depth. In areas unlikely to be dug over or disturbed such as under a path or a lawn, then shallower burial is acceptable - possibly a spade's blade depth or around 12".


but i believe regs are now 50cm arent they?

On Sunday, September 9, 2018 at 3:55:45 PM UTC+1, George Miles wrote:
I'm digging a trench for armoured cable to the shed,
I may as well bury ethernet cable with it.

Expensive waterproof cable like this:
Multi Cable 75m CAT6 Outdoor waterproof Direct Burial Ethernet Network .... £59.33
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...&_sacat=181812

Or cheaper wire threaded through a blue waterpipe
or what do you recommend?

george

On 11/09/2018 13:07, George Miles wrote:
Wiki has wrong depth?

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial

wiki says
How deep?

An underground cable will normally be laid in a trench, and then the trench back filled to cover it.

The cable needs to be buried deep enough that it is unlikely to be disturbed accidentally in future. There are no hard and fast rules here since circumstances will dictate an appropriate depth. In areas unlikely to be dug over or disturbed such as under a path or a lawn, then shallower burial is acceptable - possibly a spade's blade depth or around 12".


but i believe regs are now 50cm arent they?

Which regs though?

BS7671 (aka "the wiring regs") seems to be silent on the matter - they
specify a 50mm separation between mains and communications cables, but
not a minimum burial depth. Can't see anything in the on site guide either.

The specs like BS5467 (for armoured thermosetting cables) only mention
burial once and then only in the context of it being suitable for burial.

Can't see anything in the electrician's guide to the building regs either.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article , John Rumm
wrote:
On 11/09/2018 13:07, George Miles wrote:
Wiki has wrong depth?

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial

wiki says How deep?

An underground cable will normally be laid in a trench, and then the
trench back filled to cover it.

The cable needs to be buried deep enough that it is unlikely to be
disturbed accidentally in future. There are no hard and fast rules here
since circumstances will dictate an appropriate depth. In areas
unlikely to be dug over or disturbed such as under a path or a lawn,
then shallower burial is acceptable - possibly a spade's blade depth or
around 12".


but i believe regs are now 50cm arent they?

Which regs though?

BS7671 (aka "the wiring regs") seems to be silent on the matter - they
specify a 50mm separation between mains and communications cables, but
not a minimum burial depth. Can't see anything in the on site guide
either.

The specs like BS5467 (for armoured thermosetting cables) only mention
burial once and then only in the context of it being suitable for burial.

Can't see anything in the electrician's guide to the building regs either.

old regs, section 708, Reg 708.521.1.1: Underground cables shall be buried
at a depth of at least 0.6m ......

I'm buying my copy of the new regs on Friday

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 11/09/2018 15:42, charles wrote:
In article , John Rumm
wrote:

but i believe regs are now 50cm arent they?

Which regs though?

BS7671 (aka "the wiring regs") seems to be silent on the matter - they
specify a 50mm separation between mains and communications cables, but
not a minimum burial depth. Can't see anything in the on site guide
either.

The specs like BS5467 (for armoured thermosetting cables) only mention
burial once and then only in the context of it being suitable for burial.

Can't see anything in the electrician's guide to the building regs either.

old regs, section 708, Reg 708.521.1.1: Underground cables shall be buried
at a depth of at least 0.6m ......

ah ok, yup that section is still there in the 18th edition, but that
section lists specific requirements for Caravan and Camping parks.

Also the wording: "An underground distribution circuit shall, unless
provided with additional mechanical protection, be buried at sufficient
depth to avoid being damaged, e.g. by tent pegs or ground anchors or by
movement of vehicles."

There is then a note that says that 0.6m is generally considered
adequate to meet the requirement but also goes on to say that the cable
could be installed outside of the area where pegs etc will be used.

So even in the context of a camp site that is still only a
recommendation that depends on actual circumstances, and also the amount
of mechanical protection the cable has.

I'm buying my copy of the new regs on Friday

Oh well that will give you something to read over the weekend ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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On Tue, 11 Sep 2018 16:38:33 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

So even in the context of a camp site that is still only a
recommendation that depends on actual circumstances, and also the amount
of mechanical protection the cable has.

Duct colour, depth, etc all seems a bit woolly no matter the
location. You might find Vol:1 on this page interesting:

http://streetworks.org.uk/resources/publications/

--
Cheers
Dave.