Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?

My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)

Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out job.

Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.
--
Tim Lamb

On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?

My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)

Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out job.

Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic ballast
with a starter if it's a T12.

TBH I am not sure what you are asking. I have swapped loads of
fluorescent tubes for LED tubes and bypassed the old ballast (electronic
and magnetic) without a problem, there is no rip out and rewire.

As for prices? I know some reasonable deals. Who have you looked at?

--

Adam

In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?
My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)
Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out
job.
Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic
ballast with a starter if it's a T12.

er. I'm only going by what he said. I think the 11/2" tubes are related
to unobtonium and he has been substituting T12s. They might have been
there since he took the place on in 1985.

The fittings are ceiling mounted and joined in a continuous conduit run
which apparently also carries other wiring.

TBH I am not sure what you are asking. I have swapped loads of
fluorescent tubes for LED tubes and bypassed the old ballast
(electronic and magnetic) without a problem, there is no rip out and
rewire.

If the fittings had been suspended it would be simple to replace with a
current fluorescent version.

As for prices? I know some reasonable deals. Who have you looked at?

CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

Most of the web comment seems to be American.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been substituting T8s

On Wednesday, 5 September 2018 20:53:28 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?
My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)
Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out
job.
Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic
ballast with a starter if it's a T12.

er. I'm only going by what he said. I think the 11/2" tubes are related
to unobtonium and he has been substituting T12s. They might have been
there since he took the place on in 1985.

The fittings are ceiling mounted and joined in a continuous conduit run
which apparently also carries other wiring.

TBH I am not sure what you are asking. I have swapped loads of
fluorescent tubes for LED tubes and bypassed the old ballast
(electronic and magnetic) without a problem, there is no rip out and
rewire.

If the fittings had been suspended it would be simple to replace with a
current fluorescent version.

As for prices? I know some reasonable deals. Who have you looked at?

CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

Most of the web comment seems to be American.

Yes, lots of people have done it. What exactly do you want.

In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been substituting T8s

Ah! Sorry. Ignorance on display:-)

The smaller tubes are slow/reluctant to start.

--
Tim Lamb

In message ,
writes
On Wednesday, 5 September 2018 20:53:28 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?
My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)
Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out
job.
Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic
ballast with a starter if it's a T12.

er. I'm only going by what he said. I think the 11/2" tubes are related
to unobtonium and he has been substituting T12s. They might have been
there since he took the place on in 1985.

The fittings are ceiling mounted and joined in a continuous conduit run
which apparently also carries other wiring.

TBH I am not sure what you are asking. I have swapped loads of
fluorescent tubes for LED tubes and bypassed the old ballast
(electronic and magnetic) without a problem, there is no rip out and
rewire.

If the fittings had been suspended it would be simple to replace with a
current fluorescent version.

As for prices? I know some reasonable deals. Who have you looked at?

CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

Most of the web comment seems to be American.

Yes, lots of people have done it. What exactly do you want.

With electronics the age these must be I guess the most reliable would
be combined LED tube and driver plugged in to the existing fitting
connections. There must be an incoming terminal strip to re-route a
supply to the tube couplers. I suppose an interim approach might be to
use the existing electronics and a presumably cheaper LED tube. Only
going for a full conversion as these fail.

More light would be a bonus!

None of this is very far off the ground (old pig fattening barn so
around 10') although difficult working above your head wearing
glasses:-(

--
Tim Lamb

On Thursday, 6 September 2018 10:03:27 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
tabbypurr writes
On Wednesday, 5 September 2018 20:53:28 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?
My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)
Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out
job.
Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic
ballast with a starter if it's a T12.

er. I'm only going by what he said. I think the 11/2" tubes are related
to unobtonium and he has been substituting T12s. They might have been
there since he took the place on in 1985.

The fittings are ceiling mounted and joined in a continuous conduit run
which apparently also carries other wiring.

TBH I am not sure what you are asking. I have swapped loads of
fluorescent tubes for LED tubes and bypassed the old ballast
(electronic and magnetic) without a problem, there is no rip out and
rewire.

If the fittings had been suspended it would be simple to replace with a
current fluorescent version.

As for prices? I know some reasonable deals. Who have you looked at?

CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

Most of the web comment seems to be American.

Yes, lots of people have done it. What exactly do you want.

With electronics the age these must be I guess the most reliable would
be combined LED tube and driver plugged in to the existing fitting
connections. There must be an incoming terminal strip to re-route a
supply to the tube couplers. I suppose an interim approach might be to
use the existing electronics and a presumably cheaper LED tube. Only
going for a full conversion as these fail.

More light would be a bonus!

None of this is very far off the ground (old pig fattening barn so
around 10') although difficult working above your head wearing
glasses:-(

Reroute the mains straight to the endcaps, use LED tubes that work this way, having built in drivers. You can leave a magnetic ballast in circuit if you must, I wouldn't with an electronic one.


NT

On Thursday, 6 September 2018 10:03:27 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
None of this is very far off the ground (old pig fattening barn so
around 10') although difficult working above your head wearing
glasses:-(

Double-D seg bifocals with a near vision lens near the top :-)

Owain

In message ,
writes
On Thursday, 6 September 2018 10:03:27 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
None of this is very far off the ground (old pig fattening barn so
around 10') although difficult working above your head wearing
glasses:-(

Double-D seg bifocals with a near vision lens near the top :-)

I'm still trying to avoid bifocals for normal activities and carry
reading glasses on a string for anything close.

Overhead work issues are more because the lens is to low on my nose:-)

--
Tim Lamb

On 06/09/2018 09:22, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been substituting T8s

Ah! Sorry. Ignorance on display:-)

The smaller tubes are slow/reluctant to start.


If you buy led tubes then most just have live and neutral at one end and
a short on the pins the other end.

So its normal to wore live to one end and loop neutral through the other
end and back to the end with live.
That way the tube will work either way around.

Mark the fitting as led only as a normal tube will go pop.



You can do exactly the same by replacing the starter with a short and
leave a choke ballast in circuit.

It probably won't work with an electronic ballast.

In message , "dennis@home"
writes
On 06/09/2018 09:22, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been substituting T8s
Ah! Sorry. Ignorance on display:-)
The smaller tubes are slow/reluctant to start.


If you buy led tubes then most just have live and neutral at one end
and a short on the pins the other end.

So its normal to wore live to one end and loop neutral through the
other end and back to the end with live.

Right. Took my brain cells a while to get hold of that!

That way the tube will work either way around.

OK Dennis

Mark the fitting as led only as a normal tube will go pop.

Quite.

You can do exactly the same by replacing the starter with a short and
leave a choke ballast in circuit.

It probably won't work with an electronic ballast.

These fittings are 30+ years old!

Ta!

--
Tim Lamb

On 06/09/2018 18:10, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , "dennis@home"
writes
On 06/09/2018 09:22, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been substituting
T8s
Â*Ah! Sorry. Ignorance on display:-)
Â*The smaller tubes are slow/reluctant to start.


If you buy led tubes then most just have live and neutral at one end
and a short on the pins the other end.

So its normal to wore live to one end and loop neutral through the
other end and back to the end with live.

Right. Took my brain cells a while to get hold of that!

That way the tube will work either way around.

OK Dennis

Mark the fitting as led only as a normal tube will go pop.

Quite.

You can do exactly the same by replacing the starter with a short and
leave a choke ballast in circuit.

It probably won't work with an electronic ballast.

These fittings are 30+ years old!

Ta!





Neutral----------------------------.
_________________ :
live---------| |---:
| tube |
.----|_________________|---.
:---(starter replacement)--:
(short or hardwire)




or if you don't mind it only working one way around
WARNING if you put it the wrong way it will short live and neutral!


_________________
Neutral------| |--
Live---------| tube |--
|_________________|

On 06/09/2018 19:13, dennis@home wrote:
On 06/09/2018 18:10, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , "dennis@home"
writes
On 06/09/2018 09:22, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been
substituting T8s
Â*Ah! Sorry. Ignorance on display:-)
Â*The smaller tubes are slow/reluctant to start.


If you buy led tubes then most just have live and neutral at one end
and a short on the pins the other end.

So its normal to wore live to one end and loop neutral through the
other end and back to the end with live.

Right. Took my brain cells a while to get hold of that!

That way the tube will work either way around.

OK Dennis

Mark the fitting as led only as a normal tube will go pop.

Quite.

You can do exactly the same by replacing the starter with a short and
leave a choke ballast in circuit.

It probably won't work with an electronic ballast.

These fittings are 30+ years old!

Ta!





Neutral----------------------------.
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* _________________Â*Â*Â* :
live---------|Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |---:
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* tubeÂ*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* .----|_________________|---.
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* :---(starter replacement)--:
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* (short or hardwire)




or if you don't mind it only working one way around
WARNING if you put it the wrong way it will short live and neutral!


Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* _________________
Neutral------|Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |--
Live---------|Â*Â* tubeÂ*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |--
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |_________________|



Nice. I would say the first way is the way to do it. A couple of extra
minutes for the wiring but worth the effort.

--
Adam

On 06/09/2018 09:56, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
writes
On Wednesday, 5 September 2018 20:53:28 UTC+1, Tim LambÂ* wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?
Â* My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)
Â* Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out
job.
Â* Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic
ballast with a starter if it's a T12.

er. I'm only going by what he said. I think the 11/2" tubes are related
to unobtonium and he has been substituting T12s. They might have been
there since he took the place on in 1985.

The fittings are ceiling mounted and joined in a continuous conduit run
which apparently also carries other wiring.

TBH I am not sure what you are asking. I have swapped loads of
fluorescent tubes for LED tubes and bypassed the old ballast
(electronic and magnetic) without a problem, there is no rip out and
rewire.

If the fittings had been suspended it would be simple to replace with a
current fluorescent version.

As for prices? I know some reasonable deals. Who have you looked at?

CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

Most of the web comment seems to be American.

Yes, lots of people have done it. What exactly do you want.

With electronics the age these must be I guess the most reliable would
be combined LED tube and driver plugged in to the existing fitting
connections. There must be an incoming terminal strip to re-route a
supply to the tube couplers. I suppose an interim approach might be to
use the existing electronics and a presumably cheaper LED tube. Only
going for a full conversion as these fail.

More light would be a bonus!

None of this is very far off the ground (old pig fattening barn so
around 10') although difficult working above your head wearing glasses:-(


I did my PASMA course last week with no problems.

--
Adam

On 05/09/2018 20:52, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?
Â*My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)
Â*Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out job.
Â*Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic
ballast with a starter if it's a T12.

er. I'm only going by what he said. I think the 11/2" tubes are related
to unobtonium and he has been substituting T12s. They might have been
there since he took the place on in 1985.

The fittings are ceiling mounted and joined in a continuous conduit run
which apparently also carries other wiring.

Normally the conduit would run behind the light fitting and the fitting
would be mounted on a couple of BESA boxes with the lighting cables
entering the fitting from the BESA box.


--
Adam

On 06/09/2018 09:22, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been substituting T8s

Ah! Sorry. Ignorance on display:-)

The smaller tubes are slow/reluctant to start.


Old lamps and starters. An electronic starter MAY work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjphxq9nUrA

--
Adam

In message , ARW
writes
On 06/09/2018 09:22, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

I think the 11/2" tubes are related to unobtonium and he has been
substituting T12s

T12s were 1.5" (12 8ths of an inch), he's probably been substituting T8s
Ah! Sorry. Ignorance on display:-)
The smaller tubes are slow/reluctant to start.


Old lamps and starters. An electronic starter MAY work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjphxq9nUrA

Slightly surprising he is alive!

The fittings at issue are high frequency with electronic ballasts
intended for workshop use with rotating machinery.

I don't think they have *starters* as such.


--
Tim Lamb

In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 20:52, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 05/09/2018 18:29, Tim Lamb wrote:
Anyone actually done it for ancient electronic ballast versions?
*My carpenter tenants workshop is lit with the things:-)
*Sadly other wiring uses the conduit so it is not a simple rip out job.
*Plenty on Google but they are a bit shy about costs and stockists.




A T12 with an electronic ballast? I would have expected magnetic
ballast with a starter if it's a T12.
er. I'm only going by what he said. I think the 11/2" tubes are
related to unobtonium and he has been substituting T12s. They might
have been there since he took the place on in 1985.
The fittings are ceiling mounted and joined in a continuous conduit
run which apparently also carries other wiring.

Normally the conduit would run behind the light fitting and the fitting
would be mounted on a couple of BESA boxes with the lighting cables
entering the fitting from the BESA box.

Yes:-) This wasn't a trade install. The fittings had been skipped from
a local secondary school when the woodwork and metalwork classrooms were
re-modelled as CDT units.

The tenant did the install himself without considering future issues.
Low building and waving lengths of timber about may have been a concern.

CPC do V-TAC 657VT-151 in a 1.5m 4000K at around £9.00
https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/657-vt...tatable-150cm/
dp/LP11269?st=t8%20leds



--
Tim Lamb

On 07/09/2018 09:59, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes

Normally the conduit would run behind the light fitting and the
fitting would be mounted on a couple of BESA boxes with the lighting
cables entering the fitting from the BESA box.

Yes:-)Â* This wasn't a trade install. The fittings had been skipped from
a local secondary school when the woodwork and metalwork classrooms were
re-modelled as CDT units.

The tenant did the install himself without considering future issues.
Low building and waving lengths of timber about may have been a concern.

CPC do V-TAC 657VT-151 in a 1.5m 4000K at around £9.00
https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/657-vt...tatable-150cm/
dp/LP11269?st=t8%20leds




All points noted.

If you want cheaper then try LEDHut. £7.62 if you tell them you are
trade. Possibly some P&P depending on the size of the order.

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/commercia...-4000k-v2.html


The LEDHut ones have a wider beam angle. I suppose it depends on how
many you want to make any real cost savings.

Dennis has provided you with the correct wiring diagram.

--
Adam

In message , ARW
writes
On 07/09/2018 09:59, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes

Normally the conduit would run behind the light fitting and the
fitting would be mounted on a couple of BESA boxes with the lighting
cables entering the fitting from the BESA box.
Yes:-)* This wasn't a trade install. The fittings had been skipped
from a local secondary school when the woodwork and metalwork
classrooms were re-modelled as CDT units.
The tenant did the install himself without considering future
issues. Low building and waving lengths of timber about may have been
a concern.
CPC do V-TAC 657VT-151 in a 1.5m 4000K at around £9.00
https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/657-vt...tatable-150cm/
dp/LP11269?st=t8%20leds




All points noted.

If you want cheaper then try LEDHut. £7.62 if you tell them you are
trade. Possibly some P&P depending on the size of the order.

OK Probably 20 total so not an exciting order.

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/commercia...e-lights/t8-22
-watt-led-tube-light-58w-replacement-1500mm-4000k-v2.html


The LEDHut ones have a wider beam angle. I suppose it depends on how
many you want to make any real cost savings.
The wider beam angle may be important. Fitted close to the apex of a
shallow slope, white ceiling, conventional florries give a good light
dispersal.

Dennis has provided you with the correct wiring diagram.

Thanks.


--
Tim Lamb

On 08/09/2018 09:00, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 07/09/2018 09:59, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes

Normally the conduit would run behind the light fitting and the
fitting would be mounted on a couple of BESA boxes with the lighting
cables entering the fitting from the BESA box.
Â*Yes:-)Â* This wasn't a trade install. The fittings had been skipped
fromÂ* a local secondary school when the woodwork and metalwork
classrooms wereÂ* re-modelled as CDT units.
Â*The tenant did the install himself without considering future
issues.Â* Low building and waving lengths of timber about may have
been a concern.
Â*CPC do V-TAC 657VT-151 in a 1.5m 4000K at around £9.00
https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/657-vt...tatable-150cm/

dp/LP11269?st=t8%20leds




All points noted.

If you want cheaper then try LEDHut. £7.62 if you tell them you are
trade. Possibly some P&P depending on the size of the order.

OK Probably 20 total so not an exciting order.

I have used quite a bit of LEDHut stuff, in particular I have fitted out
lots of shops with the panel lights

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/commercia...el-lights.html

It works like this, I call into a shop, the person serving me sees my
tshirt and asks if I can swap the lamps that are flickering/not working.
Then I give them a demo of an LED fitting, tell them the cost savings
and give them a price to replace the lot. It is usually going to pay for
itself in 18 months,

Never had a problem with them.



--
Adam

In message , ARW
writes
On 08/09/2018 09:00, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes
On 07/09/2018 09:59, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , ARW
writes

Normally the conduit would run behind the light fitting and the
fitting would be mounted on a couple of BESA boxes with the
lighting cables entering the fitting from the BESA box.
*Yes:-)* This wasn't a trade install. The fittings had been skipped
from* a local secondary school when the woodwork and metalwork
classrooms were* re-modelled as CDT units.
*The tenant did the install himself without considering future
issues.* Low building and waving lengths of timber about may have
been a concern.
*CPC do V-TAC 657VT-151 in a 1.5m 4000K at around £9.00

https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/657-vt...e-rotatable-15

dp/LP11269?st=t8%20leds




All points noted.

If you want cheaper then try LEDHut. £7.62 if you tell them you are
trade. Possibly some P&P depending on the size of the order.
OK Probably 20 total so not an exciting order.

I have used quite a bit of LEDHut stuff, in particular I have fitted
out lots of shops with the panel lights

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/commercia...el-lights.html

It works like this, I call into a shop, the person serving me sees my
tshirt and asks if I can swap the lamps that are flickering/not
working. Then I give them a demo of an LED fitting, tell them the cost
savings and give them a price to replace the lot. It is usually going
to pay for itself in 18 months,

Never had a problem with them.

5 on order. Expected Tuesday. Workshop man is busy spraying some mdf
battery boxes (for imported mobility vehicles) so I don't suppose
they'll get fitted for a bit.

I'll report back.

--
Tim Lamb

On 09/09/2018 11:47, Tim Lamb wrote:

5 on order. Expected Tuesday. Workshop man is busy spraying some mdf
battery boxes (for imported mobility vehicles) so I don't suppose
they'll get fitted for a bit.


What's he using to make them fire proof?

On 09/09/2018 12:56, dennis@home wrote:
On 09/09/2018 11:47, Tim Lamb wrote:

5 on order. Expected Tuesday. Workshop man is busy spraying some mdf
battery boxes (for imported mobility vehicles) so I don't suppose
they'll get fitted for a bit.


What's he using to make them fire proof?


Does he have to make them fireproof?

--
Adam

In message , "dennis@home"
writes
On 09/09/2018 11:47, Tim Lamb wrote:

5 on order. Expected Tuesday. Workshop man is busy spraying some mdf
battery boxes (for imported mobility vehicles) so I don't suppose
they'll get fitted for a bit.


What's he using to make them fire proof?

Not his problem. They are not huge but I have no idea what type of
battery gets fitted.

Long time ago now but I used to get new car batteries from a friend
who's father drove vehicles to the docks. Apparently they had to remove
the battery before loading.

--
Tim Lamb

On Wed, 5 Sep 2018 20:52:49 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

I ordered a T8 LED tube (only 4 footer) from CPC and found that it
would not have worked in my kitchen fitting as there was no short
circuit link at the remote end from the driver.

Was sent in very strong cardboard tube but did not survive being
trodden on (UPS) :-

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmsgUs7H

In message , Geo
writes
On Wed, 5 Sep 2018 20:52:49 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

I ordered a T8 LED tube (only 4 footer) from CPC and found that it
would not have worked in my kitchen fitting as there was no short
circuit link at the remote end from the driver.

Was sent in very strong cardboard tube but did not survive being
trodden on (UPS) :-

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmsgUs7H

5 Due tomorrow. We'll see what DPD can do.

--
Tim Lamb

On 11/09/2018 14:19, Geo wrote:
On Wed, 5 Sep 2018 20:52:49 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

I ordered a T8 LED tube (only 4 footer) from CPC and found that it
would not have worked in my kitchen fitting as there was no short
circuit link at the remote end from the driver.

Was sent in very strong cardboard tube but did not survive being
trodden on (UPS) :-

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmsgUs7H


Interesting. In that case you would have had to follow Dens second drawing.

--
Adam

On 11/09/2018 19:03, ARW wrote:
On 11/09/2018 14:19, Geo wrote:
On Wed, 5 Sep 2018 20:52:49 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

I ordered a T8 LED tube (only 4 footer) from CPC and found that it
would not have worked in my kitchen fitting as there was no short
circuit link at the remote end from the driver.

Was sent in very strong cardboard tube but did not survive being
trodden on (UPS) :-

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmsgUs7H


Interesting. In that case you would have had to follow Dens second drawing.

I recently bought a LED tube that fits into T5 or T8 holders but has no
electrical connections at the ends.

It comes with a 24V DC PSU that works it.

Its controlled (colour/timer) by blutooth.

On 11/09/2018 22:20, dennis@home wrote:
On 11/09/2018 19:03, ARW wrote:
On 11/09/2018 14:19, Geo wrote:
On Wed, 5 Sep 2018 20:52:49 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

I ordered a T8 LED tube (only 4 footer) from CPC and found that it
would not have worked in my kitchen fitting as there was no short
circuit link at the remote end from the driver.

Was sent in very strong cardboard tube but did not survive being
trodden on (UPS) :-

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmsgUs7H


Interesting. In that case you would have had to follow Dens second
drawing.

I recently bought a LED tube that fits into T5 or T8 holders but has no
electrical connections at the ends.

It comes with a 24V DC PSU that works it.

Its controlled (colour/timer) by blutooth.



And there is me making money out of fitting switches:-)

--
Adam

On 12/09/2018 19:22, ARW wrote:
On 11/09/2018 22:20, dennis@home wrote:
On 11/09/2018 19:03, ARW wrote:
On 11/09/2018 14:19, Geo wrote:
On Wed, 5 Sep 2018 20:52:49 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


CPC but I can't get my brain round what is needed:-(

I ordered a T8 LED tube (only 4 footer) from CPC and found that it
would not have worked in my kitchen fitting as there was no short
circuit link at the remote end from the driver.

Was sent in very strong cardboard tube but did not survive being
trodden on (UPS) :-

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmsgUs7H


Interesting. In that case you would have had to follow Dens second
drawing.

I recently bought a LED tube that fits into T5 or T8 holders but has
no electrical connections at the ends.

It comes with a 24V DC PSU that works it.

Its controlled (colour/timer) by blutooth.



And there is me making money out of fitting switches:-)


They are making more out of not fitting switches.

It was bloody expensive but the daughter wanted it for her aquarium.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fluval-Aqua...quasky+LED+2.0

Its a birthday pressie now.


No I didn't pay amazons overprice.