Hi there

Just about to start insulating my single-skin brick shed with Celotex and
have got a couple of questions:

The Celotex will be fitted to the wall by fixing battens over the Celotex
and then fixed to the wall. What is the best way to attach the battens to
the wall? Should I use screws or masonry nails? If using screws, I need to
put rawl plugs into the brick. What's the best and quickest way to do this?
If I pre-drill all the holes in the brickwork, how can I be sure to line up
the batten with the holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Am a total newbie to this kind of
thing.

Stephen

"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
Hi there

Just about to start insulating my single-skin brick shed with Celotex and
have got a couple of questions:

The Celotex will be fitted to the wall by fixing battens over the Celotex
and then fixed to the wall. What is the best way to attach the battens to
the wall? Should I use screws or masonry nails? If using screws, I need to
put rawl plugs into the brick. What's the best and quickest way to do
this?
If I pre-drill all the holes in the brickwork, how can I be sure to line
up
the batten with the holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Am a total newbie to this kind of
thing.

Stephen



I would glue it on.

MrCheerful

Should I use screws or masonry nails?

Don't bother with nails. You'll probably end up just ejecting the brick from
the wall, assuming the brick even survives.

If using screws, I need to put rawl plugs into the brick. What's the
best and quickest way to do this?

SDS drill with suitable bit.

If I pre-drill all the holes in the brickwork, how can I be sure to
line up the batten with the holes.

Predrill holes in all the battens first. Then put against the wall in their
final positions. Using a old smaller bit, drill through one of your
predrilled holes (above half way up the batten) into the brick to make a
mark. Remove batten. Drill and plug hole. Attach batten to hole using screw.
Use spirit level to make batten upright. Use old bit again to drill through
each predrilled hole. Remove batten again. Drill and plug each hole.
Reattach batten using screws. If you've got a steady hand or a helper, you
can skip out the steps of attaching by one screw to make the other punch
marks, but you risk misaligning the holes.

Christian.

At what spacing should I drill the holes? Every 18 inches?



"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Should I use screws or masonry nails?


Predrill holes in all the battens first.

At what spacing should I drill the holes? Every 18 inches?

I use brown plugs with 5mm screws going at least 50mm into the wall,
avoiding mortar lines. Every 18 inches sounds fine. I usually put 5 or 6 in
spread evenly, ensuring they are approximately in the middle of a
brick/block, to avoid damage.

Christian.

Thanks Mate!

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
At what spacing should I drill the holes? Every 18 inches?

I use brown plugs with 5mm screws going at least 50mm into the wall,
avoiding mortar lines. Every 18 inches sounds fine. I usually put 5 or 6
in
spread evenly, ensuring they are approximately in the middle of a
brick/block, to avoid damage.

Christian.

The bricks used to build this shed must be extra tough because I'm blunting
drill bit after drill bit. They look like normal house bricks but the dust
is grey (not the usual pinky colour). I didnt expect them to be so tough!

My mate says I should just drill into the pug joints. Is this OK?

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
At what spacing should I drill the holes? Every 18 inches?

I use brown plugs with 5mm screws going at least 50mm into the wall,
avoiding mortar lines. Every 18 inches sounds fine. I usually put 5 or 6
in
spread evenly, ensuring they are approximately in the middle of a
brick/block, to avoid damage.

Christian.

"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
The bricks used to build this shed must be extra tough because I'm
blunting
drill bit after drill bit. They look like normal house bricks but the dust
is grey (not the usual pinky colour). I didnt expect them to be so tough!

My mate says I should just drill into the pug joints. Is this OK?

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
At what spacing should I drill the holes? Every 18 inches?

I use brown plugs with 5mm screws going at least 50mm into the wall,
avoiding mortar lines. Every 18 inches sounds fine. I usually put 5 or 6
in
spread evenly, ensuring they are approximately in the middle of a
brick/block, to avoid damage.

Christian.

Buy an sds drill and bits.

MrCheerful

On Mon, 16 Feb 2004 16:36:04 -0000, "Stephen Gilkes"
wrote:

Hi there

Just about to start insulating my single-skin brick shed with Celotex and
have got a couple of questions:

The Celotex will be fitted to the wall by fixing battens over the Celotex
and then fixed to the wall. What is the best way to attach the battens to
the wall? Should I use screws or masonry nails? If using screws, I need to
put rawl plugs into the brick. What's the best and quickest way to do this?
If I pre-drill all the holes in the brickwork, how can I be sure to line up
the batten with the holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Am a total newbie to this kind of
thing.

Stephen


I think that a lot depends on what you want to use the shed for and
whether you want to fix things to the battens or to clad it in ply or
something.

If you don't really need to fix anything to it, then you might as well
skip the screws and simply stick the cladding to the wall with
Gripfill. You could then stick a thin ply to the front if you want
to protect it slightly.

If you want something slightly more substantial, then you could do as
you are suggesting. Simply use a long masonry drill and drill through
the Celotex into the wall. You can then remove the sheet and insert
the plugs. Replace the sheet and carefully locate the screws through
the battens and the sheet. The problem with this method is that it
won't support very much if you are trying to do that because the
Celotex will tend to crush if you overtighten the fixings and in any
case mechanically speaking you will have the battens effectively stood
off from the wall on screws by the thickness of the Celotex - it won't
give any support. Therefore it is not going to be a good method if
you are looking to fit heavy shelves.

I insulated my single brick garage using Celotex by first making stud
framing in 75x50mm timber. The rectangular sections produced were
bolted to the floor using Rawlbolts and to the joists using carriage
screws. The rear face of the timber was spaced off from the wall by
about 25mm. The Celotex was cut and friction fitted into the frames
and then the joints taped with foil tape that they supply. Finally,
I clad the framing with 18mm ply. Having the timber framing spaced
off from the wall prevents cold bridging from the wall (although it
does allow some with the floor). An alternative would have been to
bolt the timbers directly to the wall but this would have bridged the
insulation - not necessarily that big a deal in a shed, although you
wouldn't do it in a dwelling. The cladding means that I can fit
light to medium weight things anywere on the walls with no hassle and
for heavier things I have very substantial studs at 600mm intervals.

For the roof I didn't need to fix anything to it, so I used long
drywall screws with large washers to fix the Celotex to the rafters.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andy Hall wrote in message . ..

I insulated my single brick garage using Celotex by first making stud
framing in 75x50mm timber. The rectangular sections produced were
bolted to the floor using Rawlbolts and to the joists using carriage
screws. The rear face of the timber was spaced off from the wall by
about 25mm. The Celotex was cut and friction fitted into the frames
and then the joints taped with foil tape that they supply. Finally,
I clad the framing with 18mm ply. Having the timber framing spaced
off from the wall prevents cold bridging from the wall (although it
does allow some with the floor). An alternative would have been to
bolt the timbers directly to the wall but this would have bridged the
insulation - not necessarily that big a deal in a shed, although you
wouldn't do it in a dwelling. The cladding means that I can fit
light to medium weight things anywere on the walls with no hassle and
for heavier things I have very substantial studs at 600mm intervals.


Andy,

I want to do something similar and had wondered why you used the
framing method (found in the archive). Now I understand.

Do I need ventilation for the airgap behind the celotex?

Is there another airgap between the celotex and the plywood or do you
fit the celotex flush with the outer face of the battens?

The celotex app notes also suggests using it to insulate the floor
with a covering of flooring grade chipboard. Anyone done this?

Andrew

The celotex app notes also suggests using it to insulate the floor
with a covering of flooring grade chipboard. Anyone done this?

You can, but if you have the height available, Jablite is cheaper for this
application.

Christian.

On 17 Feb 2004 01:50:42 -0800, (Andrew)
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote in message . ..

I insulated my single brick garage using Celotex by first making stud
framing in 75x50mm timber. The rectangular sections produced were
bolted to the floor using Rawlbolts and to the joists using carriage
screws. The rear face of the timber was spaced off from the wall by
about 25mm. The Celotex was cut and friction fitted into the frames
and then the joints taped with foil tape that they supply. Finally,
I clad the framing with 18mm ply. Having the timber framing spaced
off from the wall prevents cold bridging from the wall (although it
does allow some with the floor). An alternative would have been to
bolt the timbers directly to the wall but this would have bridged the
insulation - not necessarily that big a deal in a shed, although you
wouldn't do it in a dwelling. The cladding means that I can fit
light to medium weight things anywere on the walls with no hassle and
for heavier things I have very substantial studs at 600mm intervals.


Andy,

I want to do something similar and had wondered why you used the
framing method (found in the archive). Now I understand.

Do I need ventilation for the airgap behind the celotex?

It's probably a good idea. As a general principle, putting wood in a
potentially damp and unventilated space is not a good plan. Because
of the construction of my garage, I was able to incorporate
ventilation quite easily. The overhang of the roof provides quite
generous horizontal soffits under the eaves. The roof uses trussed
frames similar to house construction. I fitted Celotex to the
inner surface of the rafters - I could have fitted some between and
some on top, but it was enough of a PITA to fit the stuff up there
anyway that I didn't mind losing about 50mm of depth up there.
This created a space behind the depth of the rafters to ventilate the
them. I then boarded on top of the joists to form a storage area but
only up to the roof Celotex. The wall framing was arranged so that
there was an air gap at the top meeting the gap behind the roof
Celotex. I then fitted soffit vents into the soffits between each
pair of rafters on both sides of the (apex) roof.
This gives a ventilated space common behind roof and walls.

I did a simple test using smoke matches held against holes cut in the
final wall on a mildly windy day. It was blown in and out, so I
think that the ventilation is effective enough.

An alternative would be to chop an air brick into the wall, I suppose.

For belt and braces, I used pressure treated timber for the framing as
well. A good and cheap source of this is a timber mill that makes
fencing materials, although it can be obtained at a normal merchant.


Is there another airgap between the celotex and the plywood or do you
fit the celotex flush with the outer face of the battens?

No. The Celotex is fitted flush with the front surface of the
framing. I then taped it using the metalised tape, to cover the
joins from sheet to sheet and to the battens. In a few places where
there were small holes and gaps as a result of the garage
construction, I used foam filler.

I then fitted the ply to the framing using drywall screws and painted
it.



The celotex app notes also suggests using it to insulate the floor
with a covering of flooring grade chipboard. Anyone done this?

I debated the idea. The problem for me is that the height from
floor to joists is only about 2400mm and I didn't want to lose any of
that. Also, I will want to move heavy things in and out on occasions
so I don't really want a step at the front.

I had done the heat loss calculations for the building and the floor
was the least of the losses. Now of course it's the most, but not
substantial.





Andrew

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 17 Feb 2004 01:50:42 -0800, (Andrew)
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote in message
. ..

I insulated my single brick garage using Celotex by first making stud
framing in 75x50mm timber. The rectangular sections produced were
bolted to the floor using Rawlbolts and to the joists using carriage
screws. The rear face of the timber was spaced off from the wall by
about 25mm. The Celotex was cut and friction fitted into the frames
and then the joints taped with foil tape that they supply. Finally,
I clad the framing with 18mm ply. Having the timber framing spaced
off from the wall prevents cold bridging from the wall (although it
does allow some with the floor). An alternative would have been to
bolt the timbers directly to the wall but this would have bridged the
insulation - not necessarily that big a deal in a shed, although you
wouldn't do it in a dwelling. The cladding means that I can fit
light to medium weight things anywere on the walls with no hassle and
for heavier things I have very substantial studs at 600mm intervals.


Andy,

I want to do something similar and had wondered why you used the
framing method (found in the archive). Now I understand.

Do I need ventilation for the airgap behind the celotex?

It's probably a good idea. As a general principle, putting wood in a
potentially damp and unventilated space is not a good plan. Because
of the construction of my garage, I was able to incorporate
ventilation quite easily. The overhang of the roof provides quite
generous horizontal soffits under the eaves. The roof uses trussed
frames similar to house construction. I fitted Celotex to the
inner surface of the rafters - I could have fitted some between and
some on top, but it was enough of a PITA to fit the stuff up there
anyway that I didn't mind losing about 50mm of depth up there.
This created a space behind the depth of the rafters to ventilate the
them. I then boarded on top of the joists to form a storage area but
only up to the roof Celotex. The wall framing was arranged so that
there was an air gap at the top meeting the gap behind the roof
Celotex. I then fitted soffit vents into the soffits between each
pair of rafters on both sides of the (apex) roof.
This gives a ventilated space common behind roof and walls.

I did a simple test using smoke matches held against holes cut in the
final wall on a mildly windy day. It was blown in and out, so I
think that the ventilation is effective enough.

An alternative would be to chop an air brick into the wall, I suppose.

For belt and braces, I used pressure treated timber for the framing as
well. A good and cheap source of this is a timber mill that makes
fencing materials, although it can be obtained at a normal merchant.


Is there another airgap between the celotex and the plywood or do you
fit the celotex flush with the outer face of the battens?

No. The Celotex is fitted flush with the front surface of the
framing. I then taped it using the metalised tape, to cover the
joins from sheet to sheet and to the battens. In a few places where
there were small holes and gaps as a result of the garage
construction, I used foam filler.

I then fitted the ply to the framing using drywall screws and painted
it.

The celotex app notes also suggests using it to insulate the floor
with a covering of flooring grade chipboard. Anyone done this?

I debated the idea. The problem for me is that the height from
floor to joists is only about 2400mm and I didn't want to lose any of
that. Also, I will want to move heavy things in and out on occasions
so I don't really want a step at the front.

I had done the heat loss calculations for the building and the floor
was the least of the losses. Now of course it's the most, but not
substantial.

Dig a trench around the garage and insert foam insulation against the garage
walls and then back fill. This will prevent the cold earth acting as a
large heat sink extracting heat from the garage walls and floor. This is
also a very good idea with the main house too.

On Thu, 19 Feb 2004 21:07:18 -0000, "IMM" wrote:



Dig a trench around the garage and insert foam insulation against the garage
walls and then back fill.

That would take a hell of a lot of those cans though, wouldn't it?

This will prevent the cold earth acting as a
large heat sink extracting heat from the garage walls and floor.

The heat would still travel downwards though. Plus I'd have to dig
up the drive, and that would not be cost effective.


This is
also a very good idea with the main house too.


Exposing the foundations and putting foam round them..... Hmm.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 17 Feb 2004 01:50:42 -0800, (Andrew)
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote in message
. ..

I insulated my single brick garage using Celotex by first making stud
framing in 75x50mm timber. The rectangular sections produced were
bolted to the floor using Rawlbolts and to the joists using carriage
screws. The rear face of the timber was spaced off from the wall by
about 25mm. The Celotex was cut and friction fitted into the frames
and then the joints taped with foil tape that they supply. Finally,
I clad the framing with 18mm ply. Having the timber framing spaced
off from the wall prevents cold bridging from the wall (although it
does allow some with the floor).

Rigid foam insulation could have been between the floor and the wood
framing. Rawlbolts can go through the foam and into the wood. A nut and
washer on a rawlbolt thread either side of the framing sole plate will
support the timber.

An alternative would have been to
bolt the timbers directly to the wall but this would have bridged the
insulation - not necessarily that big a deal in a shed, although you
wouldn't do it in a dwelling. The cladding means that I can fit
light to medium weight things anywere on the walls with no hassle and
for heavier things I have very substantial studs at 600mm intervals.

I want to do something similar and had wondered why you used the
framing method (found in the archive). Now I understand.

Do I need ventilation for the airgap behind the celotex?

It's probably a good idea. As a general principle, putting wood in a
potentially damp and unventilated space is not a good plan. Because
of the construction of my garage, I was able to incorporate
ventilation quite easily. The overhang of the roof provides quite
generous horizontal soffits under the eaves. The roof uses trussed
frames similar to house construction. I fitted Celotex to the
inner surface of the rafters - I could have fitted some between and
some on top, but it was enough of a PITA to fit the stuff up there
anyway that I didn't mind losing about 50mm of depth up there.
This created a space behind the depth of the rafters to ventilate the
them. I then boarded on top of the joists to form a storage area but
only up to the roof Celotex. The wall framing was arranged so that
there was an air gap at the top meeting the gap behind the roof
Celotex. I then fitted soffit vents into the soffits between each
pair of rafters on both sides of the (apex) roof.
This gives a ventilated space common behind roof and walls.

I did a simple test using smoke matches held against holes cut in the
final wall on a mildly windy day. It was blown in and out, so I
think that the ventilation is effective enough.

An alternative would be to chop an air brick into the wall, I suppose.

For belt and braces, I used pressure treated timber for the framing as
well. A good and cheap source of this is a timber mill that makes
fencing materials, although it can be obtained at a normal merchant.


Is there another airgap between the celotex and the plywood or do you
fit the celotex flush with the outer face of the battens?

No. The Celotex is fitted flush with the front surface of the
framing. I then taped it using the metalised tape, to cover the
joins from sheet to sheet and to the battens. In a few places where
there were small holes and gaps as a result of the garage
construction, I used foam filler.

I then fitted the ply to the framing using drywall screws and painted
it.



The celotex app notes also suggests using it to insulate the floor
with a covering of flooring grade chipboard. Anyone done this?

I debated the idea. The problem for me is that the height from
floor to joists is only about 2400mm and I didn't want to lose any of
that. Also, I will want to move heavy things in and out on occasions
so I don't really want a step at the front.

I had done the heat loss calculations for the building and the floor
was the least of the losses. Now of course it's the most, but not
substantial.





Andrew

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 17 Feb 2004 01:50:42 -0800, (Andrew)
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote in message
. ..

I insulated my single brick garage using Celotex by first making stud
framing in 75x50mm timber. The rectangular sections produced were
bolted to the floor using Rawlbolts and to the joists using carriage
screws. The rear face of the timber was spaced off from the wall by
about 25mm. The Celotex was cut and friction fitted into the frames
and then the joints taped with foil tape that they supply. Finally,
I clad the framing with 18mm ply. Having the timber framing spaced
off from the wall prevents cold bridging from the wall (although it
does allow some with the floor). An alternative would have been to
bolt the timbers directly to the wall but this would have bridged the
insulation - not necessarily that big a deal in a shed, although you
wouldn't do it in a dwelling. The cladding means that I can fit
light to medium weight things anywere on the walls with no hassle and
for heavier things I have very substantial studs at 600mm intervals.

It is possible to have foam insulation directly against the walls and
plaster directly over. This type of foam was shown in the Grand Designs
prog on the house with the V roof.

"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
Hi there

Just about to start insulating my single-skin brick shed with Celotex and
have got a couple of questions:

The Celotex will be fitted to the wall by fixing battens over the Celotex
and then fixed to the wall. What is the best way to attach the battens to
the wall? Should I use screws or masonry nails? If using screws, I need to
put rawl plugs into the brick. What's the best and quickest way to do
this?
If I pre-drill all the holes in the brickwork, how can I be sure to line
up
the batten with the holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Am a total newbie to this kind of
thing.

Stephen



If you want to put plaster board over the celotex, then you could first fix
uprights to the wall, fill between with celotex, then plasterboard over the
whole lot. This would give you some solid bits to fix things to. It is
also possible to get plasterboard already fixed to celotex.

MrCheerful

Stephen Gilkes wrote:
Hi there

Just about to start insulating my single-skin brick shed with Celotex and
have got a couple of questions:

The Celotex will be fitted to the wall by fixing battens over the Celotex
and then fixed to the wall. What is the best way to attach the battens to
the wall? Should I use screws or masonry nails? If using screws, I need to
put rawl plugs into the brick. What's the best and quickest way to do this?
If I pre-drill all the holes in the brickwork, how can I be sure to line up
the batten with the holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Am a total newbie to this kind of
thing.

Stephen


There are some nice "knock-in" fastners from Rawlplug et al. Just drill
through the batten, into the wall and then NAIL the batten on. The
"nail" is a screw like thingy which can be tightened further once it is
on the wall. Very quick and also very strong.

Don't forget the sealing tape stuff too.,

Steve

"Steve" wrote in message
.. .
Stephen Gilkes wrote:
Hi there

Just about to start insulating my single-skin brick shed with Celotex
and
have got a couple of questions:

The Celotex will be fitted to the wall by fixing battens over the
Celotex
and then fixed to the wall. What is the best way to attach the battens
to
the wall? Should I use screws or masonry nails? If using screws, I need
to
put rawl plugs into the brick. What's the best and quickest way to do
this?
If I pre-drill all the holes in the brickwork, how can I be sure to line
up
the batten with the holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Am a total newbie to this kind of
thing.

Stephen


There are some nice "knock-in" fastners from Rawlplug et al. Just drill
through the batten, into the wall and then NAIL the batten on. The
"nail" is a screw like thingy which can be tightened further once it is
on the wall. Very quick and also very strong.

Don't forget the sealing tape stuff too.,#



Forget the lot use thermoboard, which is plasterboard with 30/40/50 mm
insulation bonded. £17 an 8x4 sheet fix with drywall adhesive.£4.75 a 25kg
bag. Bingo finish in one. Standard requirement on newbuild exterior walls.

Steve

Forget the lot use thermoboard, which is plasterboard with 30/40/50 mm
insulation bonded. £17 an 8x4 sheet fix with drywall adhesive.£4.75 a
25kg bag. Bingo finish in one.

For a shed, though, it might be more appropriate to use plywood instead of
(or in addition to) plasterboard, as it is much easier to fix shelving and
racking to.

Christian.

On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:19:37 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Forget the lot use thermoboard, which is plasterboard with 30/40/50 mm
insulation bonded. +AKM-17 an 8x4 sheet fix with drywall adhesive.+AKM-4.75 a
25kg bag. Bingo finish in one.

For a shed, though, it might be more appropriate to use plywood instead of
(or in addition to) plasterboard, as it is much easier to fix shelving and
racking to.

Christian.


I turned a pre-fab 20' x 10' concrete garage into a GP workshop and
wanted to line the inside with something warm, strong and easy to fix
things to. The 'problem' was the inside of the garage was very
'paneled' with a 1 1/2" 'dish' in the panels.

I cut up a load 4 x 2 (sawn) into 6" long blocks and 'Gripfilled' them
to the inside walls at 3 heights (top. middle and bottom) and 2'
spacing. I then lined the whole lot with bubble pack and used ally 'H'
section strips to lock 12m WBP (is it?) ply panels together at the
joints and screwed to the wooden blocks.

The whole lot was painted with some light grey floor paint and (second
hand) Spur uprights (full height) fitted at 2' intervals around all
the walls (picking up on the glued blocks). This means I can put
shelves pretty well anywhere and the ply is strong enough for brackets
or small draw units in between.

The steel trussed, corrugated cement fibre, ridge type roof is a bit
of a low pitch for any real 'loft' storage. I've not done anything to
that yet but I might fabricate some taller trusses and re-roof it at
some time soon? I think I can go up to 3m high without needing
planning permission (the workshop is 8' 6" at the eaves). I was also
considering some of that triple walled polycarbonate sheet to give me
more light or maybe an odd corrugated clear H/D panel if I stick with
that style?

The std 8' square up-and-over door was not much fun (especially in the
winter) so I fabricated a triple traditional door set (out of 50 x 25
x 1.5 mm steel box tube clad in steel sheet) to give a single 1/3 rd
wide 6' 6" high personal door and the other 2/3 rds are a sort of
bi-fold allowing the whole thing to open up if needed.

It all took quite a while to do but makes for a great hidy hole for
'fettling' stuff ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Feb 2004 09:19:37 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

Forget the lot use thermoboard, which is plasterboard with 30/40/50 mm
insulation bonded. £17 an 8x4 sheet fix with drywall adhesive.£4.75 a
25kg bag. Bingo finish in one.

For a shed, though, it might be more appropriate to use plywood instead
of
(or in addition to) plasterboard, as it is much easier to fix shelving
and
racking to.

Christian.


I turned a pre-fab 20' x 10' concrete garage into a GP workshop and
wanted to line the inside with something warm, strong and easy to fix
things to. The 'problem' was the inside of the garage was very
'paneled' with a 1 1/2" 'dish' in the panels.

I cut up a load 4 x 2 (sawn) into 6" long blocks and 'Gripfilled' them
to the inside walls at 3 heights (top. middle and bottom) and 2'
spacing. I then lined the whole lot with bubble pack and used ally 'H'
section strips to lock 12m WBP (is it?) ply panels together at the
joints and screwed to the wooden blocks.

The whole lot was painted with some light grey floor paint and (second
hand) Spur uprights (full height) fitted at 2' intervals around all
the walls (picking up on the glued blocks). This means I can put
shelves pretty well anywhere and the ply is strong enough for brackets
or small draw units in between.

The steel trussed, corrugated cement fibre, ridge type roof is a bit
of a low pitch for any real 'loft' storage. I've not done anything to
that yet but I might fabricate some taller trusses and re-roof it at
some time soon? I think I can go up to 3m high without needing
planning permission (the workshop is 8' 6" at the eaves). I was also
considering some of that triple walled polycarbonate sheet to give me
more light or maybe an odd corrugated clear H/D panel if I stick with
that style?

The std 8' square up-and-over door was not much fun (especially in the
winter) so I fabricated a triple traditional door set (out of 50 x 25
x 1.5 mm steel box tube clad in steel sheet) to give a single 1/3 rd
wide 6' 6" high personal door and the other 2/3 rds are a sort of
bi-fold allowing the whole thing to open up if needed.

It all took quite a while to do but makes for a great hidy hole for
'fettling' stuff ;-)

All the best ..

T i m



Sounds nice. Local byelaws may be different but 4 metres is usual for max
height

MrCheerful.